I have had to replace ring gears for the front and rear diffs on my Earthquake 8e. They have been breaking teeth off and I have maybe 10-12 runs on this thing. I am not very hard onit I don't really jump it either, just playing around on pavment and some back fields. Is running these through open fields w/ rough terraine messing with the diff units or ring gears? I put grease in both the front and reardiffs and a little on the ring and pinion could the extra grease have caused that? Anyone with a Backdraft or Aftershock, Nitro or 8e or an Earthquake for that matter having problems like this?</p>

I doubt seriously if grease is causing it.. Perhaps the mesh (shims) were off, but more than likely it was probably just poor materials used making the parts? Seems more and more of these similar probs are creaping up.. I hope Redcat gets a handle on it sooner rather than later.. If I was you I'd be looking for a refund/replacement if they broke in 10 runs.. I mean, stuff breaks, but that's rediculous.. Especially if both broke already.. Good luck, hope ya get em' replaced and dont have any more probs!!

Yea I had alot of fun with this thing so far I don't get alot of time to run it and still use the stock charger which takes about 3 hrs per batt. have not picked up a new charger yet or more lipos. But I am sort of new to the RC hobby had a Tamiya KC from 15-20 years ago and still have it thats what got me back into the hobby plus my buds at work with ther HPI Savage Flux nd TraxxasE Revo.. They where thinking of picking up an earthquake or an 8e series but when they break stuff they are actually hitting things like curbs or cars ect I am just staying away from anything that can do damage and still breaking stuff.
I read about Redcats before I bought this truck Earthquake8e and I saw lots of people where having problems then I watched the vids on youtube where that guy bashes these things and so they look like they should take abuse. Will be talking to Redcat.

Redcat suggested adjusting the shims, but it would seem to me it is hit or miss? Said it makes so much power and the tires are so big this will be a problem.....?????................................. Then maybe make a diff that will handle the power. I just am getting tired of putting full diffs and ring gearsin this thing just want to have some fun... My buddies (they own the competition SavageFlux and E Revo)thought this truck was a great value or ("bang for the buck") when I first got it but the bang is gone........ Anyway I think I am on my own as far as Redcat is concerned so I am looking to Kurt@UrcHobby for some help to figure out my problem.

I am having the same problem with my earthquake 3.5. The stock gears seemed like a better casting. The replacements look like aluminum and i am in search for a steel gear that will work.  Traxxas t maxx looks close but dont thing the screw holes match. Redcat support said the same to me. Try shimming it. They also said i was the only person with the problem.

Had you ever been in your gearbox before? The gears are hardend(sp) not like the pot metal in the lesser brushed models. I just ordered form Kurt@Urchobby two diffs with bulkheads.. He thinks it is the shims also... but it should not not go bad that quick and I never touched it until I went to inspect it then replaced it.......... Redcat said they won't warranty driveline problems because of how diiferently people drive the cars or trucks. But Redcat said I should expect to have to adjust the shims after some use???? Will see what happens.

Maybe a nutty idea but I wonder if you could temper a new set of gears? (heat up with a torch or something then dump em in some water?) Just thinkin off the top of my head (and still feelin the effects of the afternoons Talladega "shooters" lol) but I cant remember if that makes the metal harder or softer? Maybe a quick google??

That was a good Race caught most of it while I was working on my gear issuedon't Nascar teams cryo freez the ring and pinion gears to make them stronger there may be something to that .hmm,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Talked to Kurt@Urchobby tonight and he said it could be the shims maybe from out of the box they are off cause I never went into mine until it broke.

 yea i am on my third set. Shimming didnt help. I used heavier weight shock oil and stiffer springs to help with weight transfer. It helped some. I kept blowing out the rear. I switched the front diff (stock gears) with the rear which were the replacement aluminum, and it is holding up. I hit a jump and heard the front slip. I would have to say it is a combination of shimming and the material used. I dont think the aluminum gears they are selling as replacements are suited for the torque of the big block motors. If they would make a steel gear or sell the stock gears i think it would help. Even if you purchase a whole diff unit, it comes with the aluminum gears.

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I wonder if you could use the 8e units they are supposed to be hardend steel, at least that is what I have been told. But I know the two of us can't be the only ones with this problem I realize that now I have to figure a way to make it last.............. so.................. anyone else???

I've noticed with the Tornado (1/10 scale) that they offer the regular diff and diff parts, and also a "heavy duty" diff, and parts.. Maybe they will do the same with their other models? Im imagine it's just the "ultralight" series of models that's having this problem? Like Formula said, maybea diff from a different model (ie: XTRHurricaneor Monsoon) would fit and be made of the better metal?

yea im hoping more people start having these problems and they make better gears. The earthquake 3.5 is a newer model and they started coming out with some hopups like the metal spur gear. Hopefully they coming out with some stronger diff gears. Frustrating buying new parts and ripping the truck apart to replace. Maybe its me but i feel the gears in a complete diff unit should be shimmed already. You should have to shim something staight out of the box. I would think shimming would be done after slight wear. Thats just me.

Spoke with Redcat and they said that you shouldn't need to shim until 100-120 mins of run time.??? They said thering and pinion are shimmed correctly from the factory. Well I don't know, I have heard lots more problems with the mesh on spur gears being off then the shims on the front and rear diffs. I am a little disenchanted, being I am still in the 90 day warranty period and can't get any help. I do understand different people use these differently but I never even got to really bash mine around and it just broke going in a straight line across a back yard field .............twice!!!

Have you guys checked ebay? Sometime there are guys on there who buy a kits and part them out.. IE: Complete "stock" diffs, or rearends, etc.. You might be able to score the better "stock" diffs from there, than getting parts from a hobby shop? I hate to advertise anything besides URCHobby, cause Kurt is so good to us, but in a situation like this, if it's the only way to get "real" stock replacement parts, you may make an exception? Just look on the auctions for "Actual parts taken from complete kit" (or some disclaimer like that, that notes that it originated as a completely stock kit that was broken down and sold for parts) Good luck, hope you guys get taken care of!!

Yea I thought about that but I awhile back my ringgear in my front diff went in the same fashsion my rear diff went and I ordered a new diff unit w/bulkhead from Kurt@Urchobby and It is doing great so I ordered two more from him, but before running I will adjust the pinion shim in both the front and rear what a pain. My buddieshave theTraxxas E Revo and HPI Savage Flux and have never even gone into there front or rear diffs and they bash their stuff "a million times" harder then I have even thought about with this EarthQuake 8e!!!??? We will see once I get these in.

Well got the new diffs part #BS803-025 and theylook great couldn't wait to put them in and get too some fun. Took the front diff apart to check the pinion mesh and adjust if needed and there where little bitsof ring gear and cracks on a few of the ring gear teeth!!!!!!!!!!![X(]Thisis a newdiff and may have 15-20 min run time and it was"Easy" run time................. I don't know................... Did I just waist $35 on new diffs only to have them mess up on me after 1-2 uses? (10min of run time with stock lipos on single charge).

Redcat...I am dissapointed...................................... .................................................. .[]

Man that sucks! (Almost as bad as my Washington Capitals) but thats another story..   But it sounds like Redcat needs to re-evaluate that whole "ultralight" line of "toys" they're sellin???

Hey .................I am frustrated cause I just bought this thing in Feb 2010!!!Got one of the first runs of the new one so maybe there where some design flaws. I am not meaning to bash Redcat cause I still think this is a great truck. But after Redcat tells me that after 100-120 min of run time the pinion/ring gear mesh need to be adjusted..................... this was a brand new complete diff w/bulkhead w/only 15-20 min of run time on it. I have yet to talk to Kurt and see what he thinks, he was goning to talk to Redcat this week so I will see what happens. I put the new diffs in tonight already, bulkheads and all but will wait to see about shimming the piniongearstill I talk to Kurt.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!

I agree i have posted on this exact subject before. I have a earthquake 3.5 and have trashed my original diffs.  I agree i was way too hard on

them driving on hard pavement and turning with the front wheels off of the ground.  I didn't even expect redcat to warrenty the parts. I ordered

"factory replacement parts",  ya right.  I have both sets of gears and the originals are way better quality.  I am now on my third set and I am afraid

to run the truck because i know they won't last 2 tanks nowmatter how I drive.  The replacement diffs just plain suck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GREAT Oh well lipos are charging...... talked to Kurt@Urchobby last night and he said I may need to take some punch out of the truck with the programmer so it will save the gears..I may do this but it is so cool to see it "**** and get" off the line, but it must be too hard on the gears and Redcat said the only replacement gears they have are the ones I ordered. We will see

This is the note I sent Redcat:

Got the new complete diffs <font color="#c00000">part #BS803-025</font><font color="#666666"> </font><font color="#000000">Installed them and had to shim front and rear with2 thin shims each.tried 3 each and could feel it binding more then I would like. put back together took time to equally tighten the top of each case down (like a torque pattern on a cylinder head ora wheel). Checked for play both tight very little or no bind at all. Ran at 1/2 throttle 10 min constant, some turns, no full punches just very light driving. Sounded good. That night took apart and inspected shaft play and....... </font><div><font color="#000000">"it was back" so I shimed each 1 thin shim <font color="#0000bf">(shims are same size as shim that was installed from factory.)</font> Nice and tight very little or no bind. so each diff has 4 thin shims on each shaft. </font></div><div><font color="#000000">Installed and will test today. </font></div><div></div><div></div><div><font color="#000000"> My question is what if I run today and end up needing to re-shim again???? I have run out of shims., Also all this is making me scared to really run this thing and punch it. I have the Hobbywing program box and it was suggested that I take out some punch so the gears will last.I did not buy this to make it less fun to drive or slower so it will last. And I certainly don't think all of the You-tube Vids with Ali-shanmo bashing this thing hurt sales (that is what made me get this!!!) But I have yet to do half of what he did on those vids!!!!......Was he not stating he was replacing diffs on the Earthquake 8e in the vids? On taking the punch out, I have not heard anyone doing this yet and still being able to get the front wheels to lift or wheelie, which by the way is soooo cool..............</font></div><div></div><div><font color="#000000"> So What is next? Sorry for the long note I am just getting really frustrated.....I am beginning to feel like one of the customers I talk to at my Chevrolet Dealership when their vehicle is here for the same repair time and time again because the manufacture hasn't a developed a fix yet and they are almost out of warranty. On a much smaller scale I am in the same boat.</font></div>

Well have run a bit now maybe 15-20mins and seems okay.............for now I am just worried to really run and have some fun.......... Anyone else shimmed these diffs and had them last?  What about taking some punch out?</p>

Well I am at a loss for words since I have been having trouble with the truck shutting down becuase of the fan the 15-20 minof run time has taken two days to get in......... Ran for a few min today and the clicking noise in the diffs is back.....AAAAHHhHHHHHHHHhhHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Even If I could get Redcat to give me a couple of diffs for free This will happen again. I just traded an old bike that was in need of a lot of repair for a 6mos old Traxxas Brushless E Revo (my buddies at work). And that thing is awsome!!!!!Ran the ever liv'n #$%! out of it today and it was rock solid.............But I may sell it to pay to keep this thing together becuase at $350 new (Earthquake8e)and with all the extra expense in parts I might get 100-200 for the thing.and I can't keep a diff in it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Formula (sorry if I missed it) but how full are ya filling up the diffs with the grease? I know with fluid, your only supposed to fill enough to cover the pins that the gears ride on.. that 4 way thingy) Also, might try going to fluid instead of grease? Just thinkin out loud, ya know.. Good luck!

No more grease just installed the way they shipped and shimmed the pinion. And when I filled them: the actual limited slip differential in the case and put back together they acted the same as with the fluid.