Adding caps to esc???
02-13-2012, 12:51 PM
#27
RE: Adding caps to esc???
I like your clarification with car audio aswell, airraptor.
Thinking of a capcacitor as energy storage in a high power system is simply wrong, because the quantity of energy stored will always be very small, even with a humungous capacitor.
People who need storage for electrical energy shall simply get a battery.
Capacitors i for filters, AC couplings and so on.
And for all intents and purposes, the monstrous capacitors on car audio systems is just low-pass filters aswell, to counter the inductance from the wiring which ususally goes front to back of to vehicle.
The alternator has no problem delivering rapidly shifting power surges, but the wiring does when inductance is (relatively) high.
To just drive home the point for those still in doubt, here is a quote from my own wikipedia link in my post above:
"Conventional capacitors provide less than 360 joules per kilogram of energy density, while capacitors using developing technologies could provide more than 2.52 kilojoules per kilogram.[25] However, a conventional alkaline battery has a density of 590 kJ/kg."
A capacitor isn't a energy storage device. It just isn't.
Thinking of a capcacitor as energy storage in a high power system is simply wrong, because the quantity of energy stored will always be very small, even with a humungous capacitor.
People who need storage for electrical energy shall simply get a battery.
Capacitors i for filters, AC couplings and so on.
And for all intents and purposes, the monstrous capacitors on car audio systems is just low-pass filters aswell, to counter the inductance from the wiring which ususally goes front to back of to vehicle.
The alternator has no problem delivering rapidly shifting power surges, but the wiring does when inductance is (relatively) high.
To just drive home the point for those still in doubt, here is a quote from my own wikipedia link in my post above:
"Conventional capacitors provide less than 360 joules per kilogram of energy density, while capacitors using developing technologies could provide more than 2.52 kilojoules per kilogram.[25] However, a conventional alkaline battery has a density of 590 kJ/kg."
A capacitor isn't a energy storage device. It just isn't.
02-13-2012, 01:06 PM
#28
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
double posted, but I can make use of it by sayinggood day and no hard feelings towards phmaxius or anyone else, at this point I will say we agree to disagree. I shall go back to my happy laid back self now.
02-13-2012, 02:06 PM
#29
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
Diesel I too was a car installer before I joined the AF. The very best way to avoid the "headlight dimming" voltage drop during heavy bass is to sey up the audio amps on a different power source. If you only have one alternator and batery setup run something like a Jaccobs Accuvolt or other types out there that will run the cars demands. This will stop the headlight dimming and the voltage varation delevered to the Head unit which will give a much better sounding set up than the caps will ever do. All the caps will do on the headlight are exactly like Von said its a filter. You cars power system run ats 14.3 volts nominal and when the heavy bass comes in the volt tage drops to 12 or so if a poor system. the caps will allow the lights to dim down the 12 volt range but will not go back to the higher voltage light output (unless you have HIDs). the reason the bright to dim flux is due to the voltage drop. the caps will filter out the higher voltage under a heavy load and keep the lights dim untill the heavy load goes away. you will have a light flux (head light dimming) even with caps you just will not notice as much since it less with caps. the caps do not raise your system voltage back up to the 14.3 volts. Hope that helps and understandable. The Accuvolt will out put a constant volt to your settings no matter the input voltage. This will stop the flux in voltage to the head lights and head unit. the Accuvolt can not run the car audio amps though.
02-13-2012, 04:48 PM
#31
RE: Adding caps to esc???
The lipo does not need and protection, as it is a battery and it has its own natural ability to absorb voltage spikes, thus eliminating them.
The ESC does not have this capability naturally, since the FETs is a voltage sensitive device, and they can NOT absorb any current in the backwards direction, nor in the forwards direction when closed. Hence do they need assistance from a device which can absorb these spikes.
And thats why the ESCs has its capacitors, while batteries does not.
The ESC does not have this capability naturally, since the FETs is a voltage sensitive device, and they can NOT absorb any current in the backwards direction, nor in the forwards direction when closed. Hence do they need assistance from a device which can absorb these spikes.
And thats why the ESCs has its capacitors, while batteries does not.
02-13-2012, 05:28 PM
#32
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
ORIGINAL: Von Ohain
I think this thread needs some clarification, so here comes my opinion, as a Bc. S. on electrical engineering.
1. The sole purpose of the capacitor is to protect the FETs from induced voltage spikes from motor and wiring harness.
The energy storage effect is neglible in this situation, because each capacitor stores so little energy, and the motor consumes heaps of it.
The capacitors has no practical effect whatsoever on the boat getting up on a plane, when you slam open your throttle.
The huge power surge will drain the capacitors nearly instantly and the voltage drop will happen anyway with no practical effect whatsoever from capacitor choice.
The capacitors task is to work as a 1st order filter together with the resistance of the wiring harness.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-pass_filter
2. The inductance on the wiring harness is NOT dependent on wire length. You do not have to use more capacitors if you use longer wires.
Inductance is determined by the closed loop area of the wiring harness, and if you use long wires, all you have to do is to strap the wires close together to keep the closed loop area small, and hence keeping inductance unchanged.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductance
Strapping the wires together also has the effect of creating greater capacitance in between the wires, further eliminating the need for any extra capacitor.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitance
3. Do not ever buy a capacitor from Castle, or Etti, or anything like that. All they have done is soldered down some very generic electrolytic capacitors to a PCB board, stuck a badge to it, and charging you 50 times the price of what the chinese OEM does. There does not exist any ''hobby grade'' or ''hobby brand'' capacitors, so don't throw any money in that direction.
4. there is a very significant difference between brushed and brushelss here aswell.
A brushed motor will produce much higher voltage spikes than a brushless because of the way that an ESCs FET will allow internal closed loop bleeding of the voltage spikes, which the mechanical commutator of a brushed motor does not.
CC, which of course is very keen to sell their capacitors, fail to mention this.
CC also fail to mention that the inductance of extended motor wires is very easily kept down by simply strapping the wires together, keeping the closed loop area down.
I think this thread needs some clarification, so here comes my opinion, as a Bc. S. on electrical engineering.
1. The sole purpose of the capacitor is to protect the FETs from induced voltage spikes from motor and wiring harness.
The energy storage effect is neglible in this situation, because each capacitor stores so little energy, and the motor consumes heaps of it.
The capacitors has no practical effect whatsoever on the boat getting up on a plane, when you slam open your throttle.
The huge power surge will drain the capacitors nearly instantly and the voltage drop will happen anyway with no practical effect whatsoever from capacitor choice.
The capacitors task is to work as a 1st order filter together with the resistance of the wiring harness.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-pass_filter
2. The inductance on the wiring harness is NOT dependent on wire length. You do not have to use more capacitors if you use longer wires.
Inductance is determined by the closed loop area of the wiring harness, and if you use long wires, all you have to do is to strap the wires close together to keep the closed loop area small, and hence keeping inductance unchanged.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductance
Strapping the wires together also has the effect of creating greater capacitance in between the wires, further eliminating the need for any extra capacitor.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitance
3. Do not ever buy a capacitor from Castle, or Etti, or anything like that. All they have done is soldered down some very generic electrolytic capacitors to a PCB board, stuck a badge to it, and charging you 50 times the price of what the chinese OEM does. There does not exist any ''hobby grade'' or ''hobby brand'' capacitors, so don't throw any money in that direction.
4. there is a very significant difference between brushed and brushelss here aswell.
A brushed motor will produce much higher voltage spikes than a brushless because of the way that an ESCs FET will allow internal closed loop bleeding of the voltage spikes, which the mechanical commutator of a brushed motor does not.
CC, which of course is very keen to sell their capacitors, fail to mention this.
CC also fail to mention that the inductance of extended motor wires is very easily kept down by simply strapping the wires together, keeping the closed loop area down.
Capacitor has lot of function from small micro electronics including RF ckt, RLC, etc. up to industrial application. It is one of the most common devices used in electric circuit analysis. Widely used in electrical engineering application such as power factor correction, transmission line improvement, etc...
Capacitor simply charges when current pass thru it. Using DC supply, initial current is extremely high (based on supply voltage, initial capacitor voltage and their resistance) then drops to zero, time is based on the time constant from product of resistance and capacitance. When used in AC ckt because of its characteristic it produces reactance based on supply frequency. The higher the frequency the lower the impedance is. The current of the capacitor ckt leads the voltage phase by quarter of a cycle or 90 deg. Most industrial system produce lagging power factor. It caused by the total inductive load mostly like motors. This makes the circuit inductive in nature, the total KVA consumed is a higher but by using capacitor it minimize reactive power and only left is true power which we are using. The total current power consumption is lesser therefore lesser amps, system is more efficient and can handle more loads.
In the case of our ESC with long distribution line from the battery it function as a filter and also as improving voltage regulation. Longer line produce higher resistance, the line itself has very small inductive reactance produce by high frequency noise from its load by using capacitor as I mentioned at high frequency it becomes low impedance therefore eliminating this electrical noise. As the nature of the line as inductive it produce high impedance at high frequency including changes in line current. By using capacitor it store the energy drops on the line during that changes, stabilizing and improving voltage regulation even at high rate of current change.
02-13-2012, 06:00 PM
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
In addition, extending 3-phase wire to the motor from ESC makes the system less efficient due to the high inductive reactance cause by high frequency on the AC line so it's better to extend the DC side. If unavoidable installing 3-phase small AC capacitors located at the motor side will solve the problem.
02-13-2012, 08:30 PM
#36
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
Interesting watching the development of the thread and all of the opinions....Adding additional capacitors is not to change the inductance of the wiring haness but is to smooth induced EMF caused by the chopper circuit that pretty much all speed controls use.. If you look at the output of a brushless speed control on a scope you will see that the speed contol is converting the DC into a on/off square wave- with three phases- This switching on and off creates back a back emf (or voltage) between the battery and the sped control- causing high frequency voltage spikes that can damage the front end of the speed control... The additional capacitors are there to try to act as a buffer to absorb the spikes in input voltage caused by back emf. It is a real problem if you run long power leads.. Call hacker and talk to them about it... Extend the motor leads It won't cause a problem... I have checked several setups with up to 4 feet between the motor and esc witout a problem.. And for the geeks out there. On a setup turning 10100k rpm with stock power and motor leads, with the 4' extended motor leads it turned 9950 with the 4' extended motor leads. This was on the same battery with about 15 min between runs to solder up the extensions and rehook the wires..
02-13-2012, 08:45 PM
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
In my opinion the safest route for all boaters who are reading this thread is to leave the ESC alone. The hard work to figure out what is needed in the ESC is already completed for you by the manufacture after you hand over your money.
If you want increased reliability, make certain the power is available from the battery pack. Demanding setups must run 2p packs for excellent maximum discharge rating. This will not only protect your ESC, but everything else.
To me there is no reason to mess with the ESC. Plan your builds accordingly. For the others who wish to experiment, understand the risks.
If you want increased reliability, make certain the power is available from the battery pack. Demanding setups must run 2p packs for excellent maximum discharge rating. This will not only protect your ESC, but everything else.
To me there is no reason to mess with the ESC. Plan your builds accordingly. For the others who wish to experiment, understand the risks.
02-14-2012, 12:55 AM
#38
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
ORIGINAL: ryan_t888
In my opinion the safest route for all boaters who are reading this thread is to leave the ESC alone. The hard work to figure out what is needed in the ESC is already completed for you by the manufacture after you hand over your money.
If you want increased reliability, make certain the power is available from the battery pack. Demanding setups must run 2p packs for excellent maximum discharge rating. This will not only protect your ESC, but everything else.
To me there is no reason to mess with the ESC. Plan your builds accordingly. For the others who wish to experiment, understand the risks.
In my opinion the safest route for all boaters who are reading this thread is to leave the ESC alone. The hard work to figure out what is needed in the ESC is already completed for you by the manufacture after you hand over your money.
If you want increased reliability, make certain the power is available from the battery pack. Demanding setups must run 2p packs for excellent maximum discharge rating. This will not only protect your ESC, but everything else.
To me there is no reason to mess with the ESC. Plan your builds accordingly. For the others who wish to experiment, understand the risks.
02-14-2012, 05:55 AM
#39
RE: Adding caps to esc???
Your theory is 100% correct.
So lets apply the theory into practice:
Discharge and charge time of a RC filter is 5*R*C.
R is very small, ideally zero, as its a short wire with a descent cross section.
To make a worst case scenario, lets say you got a 1 meter ESC wire, with a 12mm² cross section.
R = ĎL/A
Ď[Cu] = 17.2 nΩ/m
17.2*10â»â¶*1/0.012² = 0.12Ω
So 0.12Ω is the resistance of a 1 meter long ESC wire.
My 200A Suppo ESC has 5x270µF capacitors, thats 1.37mF.
The time constant for a 200A Suppo ESC with a 1 meter long wire is:
5 * 1.37*10â»3*0.12 = 8.22 *10â»4
That is less than a millisecond.
With a 1 meter long wire and a 1.37µF ESC capacitor, you got less than a millisecond of "capacitor boost" before the capacitor is drained, and the voltage drop is the same way as it would be without any capacitor at all.
Lets take another extreme example, a 1 Farad car audio capacitor. they would never ever fit in a RC boat anyway, and their weight can not be justified by its tiny advandage, but lets just calculate it to see...
5*R*C
C=1
R=0.12
5*1*0.12 = 0.6
With a 1 Farad capacitor, which is larger than the boat its supposed to fit inside, you will have roughly half second of capacitor boost before voltage drop is as it would been before.
And mind you, the capacitor discharge curve is exponential, already after 1*R*C time, you will have discharged down to 63% of the full potential.
I maintain my statement, a capacitor is not a energy storage device.
Laplace was nice, as as long as we could answer in S form. Converting back and forth from time plane to S plane was teedious.
I agreed that fourier analysis was worse. I never got the hang of that, and I hope I will never ever see it again
Integration, derivation and differential equations in time plane wasn't as bad as its hyped up to be
So lets apply the theory into practice:
Discharge and charge time of a RC filter is 5*R*C.
R is very small, ideally zero, as its a short wire with a descent cross section.
To make a worst case scenario, lets say you got a 1 meter ESC wire, with a 12mm² cross section.
R = ĎL/A
Ď[Cu] = 17.2 nΩ/m
17.2*10â»â¶*1/0.012² = 0.12Ω
So 0.12Ω is the resistance of a 1 meter long ESC wire.
My 200A Suppo ESC has 5x270µF capacitors, thats 1.37mF.
The time constant for a 200A Suppo ESC with a 1 meter long wire is:
5 * 1.37*10â»3*0.12 = 8.22 *10â»4
That is less than a millisecond.
With a 1 meter long wire and a 1.37µF ESC capacitor, you got less than a millisecond of "capacitor boost" before the capacitor is drained, and the voltage drop is the same way as it would be without any capacitor at all.
Lets take another extreme example, a 1 Farad car audio capacitor. they would never ever fit in a RC boat anyway, and their weight can not be justified by its tiny advandage, but lets just calculate it to see...
5*R*C
C=1
R=0.12
5*1*0.12 = 0.6
With a 1 Farad capacitor, which is larger than the boat its supposed to fit inside, you will have roughly half second of capacitor boost before voltage drop is as it would been before.
And mind you, the capacitor discharge curve is exponential, already after 1*R*C time, you will have discharged down to 63% of the full potential.
I maintain my statement, a capacitor is not a energy storage device.
Laplace was nice, as as long as we could answer in S form. Converting back and forth from time plane to S plane was teedious.
I agreed that fourier analysis was worse. I never got the hang of that, and I hope I will never ever see it again
Integration, derivation and differential equations in time plane wasn't as bad as its hyped up to be
02-14-2012, 06:54 AM
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
rctech and
Von bain
I thought it is better to make the wires from motor to ESC longer rather than the wires from ESC to battery? I think rctech said the other way round in an earllier post......(I am making an electric North Star by balsa USA, motor at the back and battery at the front......)
Cheers
02-14-2012, 01:14 PM
#41
RE: Adding caps to esc???
There is advantages and disadvantages to both.
Extending the ESC-motor wires will produce a lot more electrical noise, while extending the battery-ESC wires will put higher strain on the esc capacitors.
Personally I think extending the batterywires is better, as noise from the motor has downed planes for me before, even on expensive FM systems.
On 2.4 GHz, I believe the problem is virtually nonexistent.
Extending the ESC-motor wires will produce a lot more electrical noise, while extending the battery-ESC wires will put higher strain on the esc capacitors.
Personally I think extending the batterywires is better, as noise from the motor has downed planes for me before, even on expensive FM systems.
On 2.4 GHz, I believe the problem is virtually nonexistent.
02-14-2012, 01:58 PM
#42
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
Thanks Von Bain. I am really at the mercy of everyone out there as I wouldn't even know how to start solving this problem. I thought the battery wires are to be kept short to reduce resistance as the voltage is always greater between battery and ESC compared to ESC and motor? Again not a statement just what I have picked up?.........Cheers
02-14-2012, 03:17 PM
#43
RE: Adding caps to esc???
Ideally, all wires is kept short, but thats not always possible.
So lets say you need long wires, which wires should you extend?
Here is a sandwich list of disadvantages and advantages I can think of for both.
Advantages to long battery-esc wires, short esc-motor wires:
* Much less electrical noise
* No added impedance added to motor-esc circuit.
* More precise motor timing (an effect of no added impedance in the esc-motor circuit)
* Less MOSFET heat loss (an effect of no added impedance in the esc-motor circuit)
Advantages to long esc-motor wires, short battery-esc wires:
* Less resistance for the same amount of copper wiring (square-root-of-3 rule of 3 phase systems)
* No added strain on ESC capacitor bank.
The advantages of one is pretty much directly the disadvantage of the other, so therefore I havent written down disadvantages to either of them.
Thats the first things i can think of without doing an in-depth analysis. The list is open for suggestions.
My personal opinion is that the added capacitor strain of longer battery-esc wires is neglible, and therefore the advantages of long battery-esc wires by far outweighs the benefits of doing it the other way around.
The resistance of adding significantly longer wires should be countered by increasing wire cross section, no matter if its motor wires or battery wires that is lengthened.
So lets say you need long wires, which wires should you extend?
Here is a sandwich list of disadvantages and advantages I can think of for both.
Advantages to long battery-esc wires, short esc-motor wires:
* Much less electrical noise
* No added impedance added to motor-esc circuit.
* More precise motor timing (an effect of no added impedance in the esc-motor circuit)
* Less MOSFET heat loss (an effect of no added impedance in the esc-motor circuit)
Advantages to long esc-motor wires, short battery-esc wires:
* Less resistance for the same amount of copper wiring (square-root-of-3 rule of 3 phase systems)
* No added strain on ESC capacitor bank.
The advantages of one is pretty much directly the disadvantage of the other, so therefore I havent written down disadvantages to either of them.
Thats the first things i can think of without doing an in-depth analysis. The list is open for suggestions.
My personal opinion is that the added capacitor strain of longer battery-esc wires is neglible, and therefore the advantages of long battery-esc wires by far outweighs the benefits of doing it the other way around.
The resistance of adding significantly longer wires should be countered by increasing wire cross section, no matter if its motor wires or battery wires that is lengthened.
02-14-2012, 06:52 PM
#44
RE: Adding caps to esc???
[quote]ORIGINAL: Diesel6401
double posted, but I can make use of it by saying good day and no hard feelings towards phmaxius or anyone else, at this point I will say we agree to disagree. I shall go back to my happy laid back self now.
Ive had the basic idea from working as a auto elect for 1 year, mechanic for 5 years & new cars accessory fitter for 3 years. but to be honest 90% of my work was at dealerships working with new cars. I never really got to see anything out side of the box.
Hey some of u guys have a better understanding than me. can u please check this wiring diagram ive made...im new to moffset controllers
*note Ive made one mistake. the ESC's BEC will not be part of this curcit, ive been told that u cant have 2 BEC so ill use that for the ESC & motor fan
double posted, but I can make use of it by saying good day and no hard feelings towards phmaxius or anyone else, at this point I will say we agree to disagree. I shall go back to my happy laid back self now.
Ive had the basic idea from working as a auto elect for 1 year, mechanic for 5 years & new cars accessory fitter for 3 years. but to be honest 90% of my work was at dealerships working with new cars. I never really got to see anything out side of the box.
Hey some of u guys have a better understanding than me. can u please check this wiring diagram ive made...im new to moffset controllers
*note Ive made one mistake. the ESC's BEC will not be part of this curcit, ive been told that u cant have 2 BEC so ill use that for the ESC & motor fan
02-14-2012, 08:15 PM
#45
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
ORIGINAL: Goldenduff
rctech and
Von bain
I thought it is better to make the wires from motor to ESC longer rather than the wires from ESC to battery? I think rctech said the other way round in an earllier post......(I am making an electric North Star by balsa USA, motor at the back and battery at the front......)
Cheers
rctech and
Von bain
I thought it is better to make the wires from motor to ESC longer rather than the wires from ESC to battery? I think rctech said the other way round in an earllier post......(I am making an electric North Star by balsa USA, motor at the back and battery at the front......)
Cheers
02-14-2012, 08:49 PM
#46
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
ORIGINAL: phmaximus
ORIGINAL: Diesel6401
double posted, but I can make use of it by saying good day and no hard feelings towards phmaxius or anyone else, at this point I will say we agree to disagree. I shall go back to my happy laid back self now.
Ive had the basic idea from working as a auto elect for 1 year, mechanic for 5 years & new cars accessory fitter for 3 years. but to be honest 90% of my work was at dealerships working with new cars. I never really got to see anything out side of the box.
Hey some of u guys have a better understanding than me. can u please check this wiring diagram ive made...im new to moffset controllers
*note Ive made one mistake. the ESC's BEC will not be part of this curcit, ive been told that u cant have 2 BEC so ill use that for the ESC & motor fan
double posted, but I can make use of it by saying good day and no hard feelings towards phmaxius or anyone else, at this point I will say we agree to disagree. I shall go back to my happy laid back self now.
Ive had the basic idea from working as a auto elect for 1 year, mechanic for 5 years & new cars accessory fitter for 3 years. but to be honest 90% of my work was at dealerships working with new cars. I never really got to see anything out side of the box.
Hey some of u guys have a better understanding than me. can u please check this wiring diagram ive made...im new to moffset controllers
*note Ive made one mistake. the ESC's BEC will not be part of this curcit, ive been told that u cant have 2 BEC so ill use that for the ESC & motor fan
02-14-2012, 09:52 PM
#47
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
Actually you can eliminate that redundant circuit and feed your controller directly by either regulator depending on your requirements. Also you can provide single power supply for all of them or separate power to your Rx.
02-14-2012, 10:42 PM
#48
RE: Adding caps to esc???
I like the idea of been able to use the main battery to power the MOSFET's and the lights. not to fussed if it slightly reduces the runtime
The main reson I plan not to use the ESC BEC is becaus my servo can draw up to 7amps and it cant supply that 1.5max, so ive fitted the Externail BEC and its set to output 6v to keep the servo nice & fast.
This is where is got a little lost
VCC power connection can range from 2.0 V to 5.5 V.
so i thought about using some LM7805 to keep it at 5v
this the the switch im thinking about using
[link]http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1210[/link]
Thanks heaps for the help so far, once completed im going to post it up with easy to follow directions to help out other peeps that want to have 2 sets of switchable lights
The main reson I plan not to use the ESC BEC is becaus my servo can draw up to 7amps and it cant supply that 1.5max, so ive fitted the Externail BEC and its set to output 6v to keep the servo nice & fast.
This is where is got a little lost
VCC power connection can range from 2.0 V to 5.5 V.
so i thought about using some LM7805 to keep it at 5v
this the the switch im thinking about using
[link]http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1210[/link]
Thanks heaps for the help so far, once completed im going to post it up with easy to follow directions to help out other peeps that want to have 2 sets of switchable lights
02-15-2012, 08:24 AM
#49
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RE: Adding caps to esc???
That’s correct to use that 5V regulator for your controller or you can connect its input power directly to the battery so you have independent regulator. If your ESC’s BEC is capable, you can enable that or for more than one power supply you can connect power diodes to get backup power. Since you’re using same battery, you can check energy consumption of your added ckt by multiplying specified load current to its voltage and running time.
02-16-2012, 05:37 AM
#50
RE: Adding caps to esc???
Will this is the beast its going in, im running 2 reciver boxes. Just mind the ducts, it got very Hot here this summer
As u can see the BEC goes straight to the reciver, Ive backed out the ESC + & - wires and pluged the BEC in with the ESC signal wire. This is all in the closest reciver box.
Then ive used a extension lead from CH1 to the 2nd reciver box, then the steering servo plugs into that.
Now im still going to need to get the signal wires for CH4 & CH5 from the 1st reciver box to the 2nd (oh and the signal wire from ch3... thats another story it will be used to switch the steering signal wire from the ESC or Gyro)
So i dare say i will run 2 additional extension wires from box to box, but one will be the BEC power only & the other will be the 3 signal wires.
ATM the 2nd reciver box will be used to house the 2 mosfet controllers and the LM7805
Im thinking because there will be a 6v power allready in the 2nd box, may as well run the LM7805 of that rather than the battery voltage, that was it should be neater
What do u guys think?
As u can see the BEC goes straight to the reciver, Ive backed out the ESC + & - wires and pluged the BEC in with the ESC signal wire. This is all in the closest reciver box.
Then ive used a extension lead from CH1 to the 2nd reciver box, then the steering servo plugs into that.
Now im still going to need to get the signal wires for CH4 & CH5 from the 1st reciver box to the 2nd (oh and the signal wire from ch3... thats another story it will be used to switch the steering signal wire from the ESC or Gyro)
So i dare say i will run 2 additional extension wires from box to box, but one will be the BEC power only & the other will be the 3 signal wires.
ATM the 2nd reciver box will be used to house the 2 mosfet controllers and the LM7805
Im thinking because there will be a 6v power allready in the 2nd box, may as well run the LM7805 of that rather than the battery voltage, that was it should be neater
What do u guys think?