means capacity, so u calculated draw of 20c times pack size so say 2000mah would be 2amps. 2X20=40 amp draw, sometimes they tell you the burst too. Charging is 1c generally whatever the size of the pack is, so for the 2000mah charging should be 2 amps/hour.

Anyways thanks for the link to that sites, wish they had more hulls listed. But certainly some good info. I may do the renegade size but will try making smaller rigger first, hell it's not a lot of money to make an attempt, and I have almost everything cept the drive line stuff.

I know what the c rating is I just wasn't sure why they showed 2 numbers, usually when I see lipo's advertized they show the continuous rating then under specs they will show the peak. I thought maybe they were just estimated to be between 20 and 30c or something. IDK, just wasn't sure.

can iask the prop size you will try
most riggers this size seem to run with about 30mm ish
can you get smaller or do you just have to size it down yourself?
thats my biggest problem - prop sizes
thanks

In the octura X series props, I have only seen as small as an X427 with a 1/8 hub. Any smaller and you will probably have to do it yourself.

Was going to use reef racer prop, have a couple laying around and i think they are a little smaller. Can't remember the size.

Hey is there a reason everyone seems to be going towards flex drive than traditional drive line. I'm assuming just for easier adjustments.

Flexdrives are a lot stronger and quieter than the uni joint, you can get a 1/8 flex setup and run a number of different props too on a drive dog.

reefracerprops are around 25mm. use the small props from offshore. go to the mini hydro on rtr boats and then there are some listed, 25mm is the smallest

But other than that it has no bearing on performance?

btw won't buy from offshore, I don't live in the states so everything comes at minimum 10+ for brokerage and 15+ for shipping. Not cost effective.

Ivan.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6164174/anchors_6164174/mpage_1/key_micro%252Crigger/anchor/tm.htm#6164174]BTW, heres my thread!!![/link]

Hey alloutcustom did u ever find a prop? apparently at offshore theres a boat called mini-z with smaller props, 15mm wide. The hardware I got is similar to yours only I've reduced my weight further to about 80-100 grams for everything hardware wise, plus it is more than likely less power too, but not by much. Boat will be carved out of dense foam with aluminum sheet for base and cooling of motor. I think I will try to go as light weight as possible.. ie no screws, just straight glue, soldier the batteries right in, reduce weight of wires etc. go real light and simple.

You ever finish your boat?

Ivan.

if your after and flex drive you can get them straight from hong kong nice an cheap! takes a bit longer for postage but heres a nice flex drive with 1/8th shaft
they sell lots of bits -i've bougt from them before and just noticed they do small aluminium octura X props
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Octura-OC098L-...QQcmdZViewItem

Flex drive seems to run little more efficient and smoother to.

Hmm... so flex drive is the way to go... bugger. Would have been easier the other way.
Ivan.

Flex drive is pretty easy to do. Only difference is you need to sweat solder the prop shaft on cable and sweat solder a stop in the tube so the liner doesn't blow out the back of the stuffing tube.

bugger, sounds easier and easier...

Then you get a coupling that goes from the flex cable to the motor shaft and a drive dog on the drive shaft, prop then the prop nut.

Thanks for that link mrfixitwhite, not necessarily for the cable, more for the link to the store, I hadn't seen that store before, they do have some good deals.
I do find though that their prices are a bit high and I can literally get the same stuff from offshore for near the same money.

Headhunter, if you are to get yourself a flexshaft, you don't necessarily have to solder it together, you can buy them already made, or you can put them together yourself, I use loctite super bearing mount and haven't broken one yet. If you do buy a genuine octura cable, it will come with a liner, drive dog and nut already, all you will have to do is cut it down and then find yourself a coupling of some description. If you know somebody that has a lathe, you can make your own couplings with a piece of 3/8 aluminium roundbar available at your local K&S dealer, cut it to length, put a drill through it at the sizes that you require at each end and then put some grubscrews in it. I make all of my own that way and they work really well. Seriously though, you will get away with the uni joint, but if it is overpowered you do run the risk of breaking it and losing your prop.

I'm thinking will go straight shaft, as I was hoping to make a micro for cheap, adding all those parts would more than likely raise the cost what 30-60 bucks plus shipping? I can do the straight shaft for 5 bucks, and I already have spare stuff anyways. Perhaps will make a renegade size later using the flex drive as I now have a spare 3200rpm/v 25a brushless since I gutted my 12.5 in jet drive boat to put the original outrunner back in to lose weight. I think dragonfire was right in a previous thread that the boat was a little too heavy. I've been able to reduce the weight quite a bit by going back to original motor, reduce unnessary stuff etc, but will see how she tests out in a day or 2.

In the mean time wanted to carve out the body for the mini rigger to test weight it could hold but that didn't work out because the foam I had was an inch too short. But I did finish all the measurments so have a plan. ah well find some tomorrow.

btw sting, I'm pretty sure this will not be overpowered by a long shot.

Ivan

Why people use flex shaft? Because with a flex shaft you can put prop parallel to water surface plus align it in some degree range to get everything prop and engine can manage plus there is no joiner that can breake or cause vibrationns. I did my flex shaft of a 1mm calibrated stainless steel vire, you can not beat this in terms of weight! and price! works brilliant too. if you use straight shaft your prop will be facing water with a angle, that will lead boat end to come off the water more than needed (most props also have some lifting force however) and you will have problems going fast.
so...
going cheap can make your boat fast, but you must think in every spot that is crusial for speed, etc.
and don't save on props, go to ebay there is some cheap sellers..

ive been thinking and i was wondering if maybe a bass guitar string would work? just to throw that out there. it would be smaller so you could put it in your micro rigger. just an idea

I think I've heard of people using piano wire, probably similar?

no, thats a wire drive... a bass guitar strig would be more of a flex cable, dont know if it would hold up tho. it would be really cheap to tho.

The thing is you need to find the proper size tubing and liner. I've read about people trying it without the liner and they vibrate badly and can even get twisted up if the tube isn't snug enough. Probably better off just spending the $20. on the flrx shaft and you get liner and prop shaft. Then you would just need drive dog, nut, washers , cupler, and stuff tube.

Oh, I guess I've never seen a piano wire I thought it was a coiled wire like a lower toned guitar string. Would a wire drive be the same concept, I mean there flexible to right?

they arent as flexible, some people use them in SAW setups. i havent seen many of them myself actually


BTW, This is my 500th POST!!!!!!