thanks guys, i really appreciate the kind words. i too cannot wait to get it wet. i just hope it runs like im expecting

Just wondering.............................what setup did you end up with for your initial test, direct, geared, prop, batts. etc?

well initaly im starting with a 23 pinion 28 spur, and only because its all i have im going to start with a stock villain prop. (still havnt got the pile of plastic ones i ordered) and for batteries im going to start with a pair of 2s 5000mah venom lipos. the green hardcase ones. also im going to program the castle link software so the esc has 50% traction control until i figure out how brutal that big neu2200 is going to be on the drive line. paint is all set and the clear is dry. im going to start reassembly tomorrow. i will try to throw up some final assembly pics before the first run. hopefully the weather will stay decent and i can take some video of the first run.

Sounds like you have everything in order, So, lipos in series for 14.8v im guessin, The 50% traction is a good idea, you can also program the punch for softer starts. Do you have trim tabs to control that beast?

well we ran it for the first time today and as you predicted it shredded the u drive in the first 3 seconds. it shot clean out of the water and did a 360 spin like a frisby in the air. i didnt realize that the u drive is the reason i had to go swimming until i got to the boat. i decided to go big or go home first, i started testing with the x450 prop! this big motor has more than enough power to zing that big prop. unfortunately the boats drive cant handle it. so then i went to an x447 prop and fixed the u drive. the boat absolutely set the water on fire! it was easily twice as fast as it was when it was still nitro powered. all of this was done at only half or less throttle! the boat has so much power that i had to hang on one side of the steering wheel to keep it in a strait line! it was impossible to go anywhere near 5/8 throttle without spinning it out completely! i am now in search of a higher torque steering servo and a turn fin. i think with some more tuning and some better servo action this beast will easily pass 50mph. by the time i remembered the camera it was close to dark. i will try to get some video as soon as i get a chance.

Ummmm...............................the weakest link (u-drive) failed......................Hmmmm how did i know that..................Samich, i've been waiting like a kid waitin on christmas to hear about your run, wow.................You must be proud! I had suggested the x447, thats probably all you'll ever need. Heres a quality servo that i go to on bigger than usual stuff, and its still reasonably priced, its not your basic futaba 56 oz. servo, its a 90 ouncer with BB's, it does great for my stuff, only 25 bucks:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDTB3&P=7

Or here is the one that i go to on the big jobs(i'm using them on 2 diff. applications), its a 124 ouncer with BB's and metal gears, only 35 bucks:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDWF8&P=7


Here are some killer turn fins, i just ordered a set, only $9.99 !!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=130302239642

Do you have enough weight in it to keep it steady? With all that mojo you can add some weight and it wont even know the diff. If you ever get it steady enough to reach a full throttle run i bet you see 60.

wow. this forum filled up quick. anyways.
i decided not to go with the 3500 system i mentioned way earlier. people were telling me not to go with a brushless system and i should order the pro-boat system.... but thats way too much money. I just wanna spend about $200.00 on the motor and ecs and such. the motor mounts i am going to make my self. I found a bit of 90 degree aluminum plates that i could cut down to size and use as a mount. so the mounts are FREE!!!

i actually got a little distracted and bought a losi rock crawler. Seeing as i have no idea how electrical systems work, the rock crawler got me familiarized with the systems. you know; where the wires go and such
speaking of losi, they also have a cheep system.

it doesn't mater really on the system, all it has to be is LIPO 3C powered to i can use my eflite batteries and charger instead of buying more batteries.

OR i might consider just selling the nitro vee for a kit-boat. hull, controller, .15 motor..... CHEEP! I sell to you, special discount!

this boat you are building is great man!!! im a boat builder (fullsize) and id love my big speed boat to have that paint job(: and well since you guys are talkin about motors-boats-propsize and stuff - does anyone know if a stock 1880 kv motor from a brushless f27c stryker would work in a very light boat with a home made surface drive? 11.1v 2200 mha 30c batt the boat is an old air boat that tower hobbies used to sell.

and im not using it as a plane motor. surface drive with a small plastic prop and the original esc. thanks

What happened. . .  I was re-reading this and getting so excited because I am doing the same thing soon, but it just ended.  <div>
</div><div>Any more progress Cat Samich?</div><div>
</div><div>I am trying to decide what motor to buy.  I will be running either 3s or 6s by way of 2 3s Lipo's in either series or parallel. (these will be the same LiPo's I will also use in a 1/16 eRevo)</div><div>
</div><div>Batt = 3s or 6s (twin 3s packs)</div><div>ESC = Turnigy 120A bl (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...hless_Boat_ESC)</div><div>Prop's available = Octtura X637, X442, or X447 (where do I find spec for these?)</div><div>Motor, see follow up post </div>

These are just what I was seeing from Hobby City/King

motor 1 - KD36-74-15XL 1100kv 45A
on 6s should give up to 24,400rpm and 999 Watts
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6679

motor 2 - KD36-60-08L 3000kv 78A
on 3s, should give up to 33,300rpm and 865 Watts
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=6674

motor 3 -KD36-50-11S 3200kv 60A
on 3s, should give up to 35,520rpm and 666 Watts
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=6670<div></div><div>So based on Watts, the most power would come from motor 1, but the most RPM would come from motor 3. My logic would say that a larger motor is required to produce more torque and that the most efficiency would come from motor 1, higher voltage = less amps for same power output, so less heat waste. Yet motor 3 seems to be more efficient spinning faster with less voltage, but maybe more amps.</div><div></div><div>Needless to say, fast is key. But I also like decent run time.</div><div></div><div>I would go for motor 1, but is it going to provide me with enough RPM. Could I just get a prop with more pitch?</div><div></div><div>I could also go to Feigao motors, I would a 10XL or 11XL size on 6s giving 35,000rpm or 38,500rpm and both up to 1000watts?or move down to 8L and 3s? Th more I look the more I am lost.
</div><div>Thanks for your input.</div>

I also just came accross this motor from my old thread. . . Don't know why it wasn't listing it before

- KD36-74-09XL 1900kv 75A
so on 6s, 42,000rpm and 1,665 Watts
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...hless_Inrunner

Nobody....i'd be a bit scared of that motor over 42,000 and with that much wattage. They just arent made well........I had a KD 1900 L on 4s crap out on the first run............................Feigao's are my choice now........great motors in my opinion. This motor would be great i think..........the 11XL or 12XL.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=fei-540XL

I thought you would say to go that way.  Now I figure I would decide which Feigao to go with based on the prop.  Or am I off on this?<div>
</div><div>I to was thinking of an 11 or 12XL.  Do both of these have the same power (watt) output?  one is just designed to spin faster (which would decrease output by way of mechanical losses)</div><div>
</div><div>In my opinion, I would be better off going with higher voltage, lower rpm, and higher prop pitch.</div><div>
</div><div>So at 22.2 volts, and say the 11XL Feigao, what prop should I run?</div>

You might want to do something fairly simple..............as in , try my setup in my villain. 12XL on 6s..............x442. The reason i go with lower KV and highr voltage is to try to minimize heat. My ESC only gets to like 85* and the motor 90-95*. Its the way i've now realized is the best...........you get the cool temps AND the rpms. The unloaded rpms on my setup is around 34,000......right in the sweet spot!! You need to use direct single straight shaft imo, VERY simple, no moving parts or bends in wires etc.............very minimal power loss.

that's pretty much the plan.  Direct drive for simplicity, and higher voltage for better efficiency and less heat.

Now your onto it!!!!!!!!!!

I just needed to learn what the numbers all meant.  If you were asking about speakers and amplifiers I would already know.  This is pretty much the same thing, it's just measured with different numbers and specs.  I also didn't/don't know what rpm/prop combo goal I am going for.<div>
</div><div>But now I do, 34,000 rpm unloaded!</div>

Check out my villain!

www.youtube.com/watch