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RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
Hi flyfloater and others
I think your prop shaft is 3mm. If so, props with a 1/8" drilled hub will fit but ,it will be loose. This can be improved by wrapping a layer of thin tape around the shaft. To start with I would look to the plastic Octura props . These would be The X431,Y531 and Y534. They are dirt cheap and of good design. Stiff enough to work well with good power. Likely to be a improvement over what you now use. Agood metal Oxtura prop would be a X435. Very efficient but cost much more. n.h.schmidt |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
also, you absolutely NEED brush cooling on that motor. 8 cells on a 19t?!?!
Do like this: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...cool-motor.php Motor heat is generated by the brushes, so naturally, that should be the part of the motor that is cooled. How to choose your prop: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/propeller-chart.php |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
Thanks for the info. So would the x435 be much of a downsize from the original? This is the original replacement but I don't really understand the dimensions they are giveing. [link]http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB0150[/link]
They say it is 1.34" x 2.06". It looks like 1.34" is the diameter so does that make 2.06 the total pitch"?? The octura x435 has a total pitch of 1.932. Is that enough (about 6% smaller) of a downsize to get my rpm's up and heat down? One more question, what do you mean by "efficient". I am not an idiot, I understand what the word means, but how does it apply to a prop? Do these metal props just use the power better? Maybe because you eliminate flex??? Thanks again for the info! - Matt |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
ORIGINAL: j.m. also, you absolutely NEED brush cooling on that motor. 8 cells on a 19t?!?! Do like this: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...cool-motor.php Motor heat is generated by the brushes, so naturally, that should be the part of the motor that is cooled. How to choose your prop: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/propeller-chart.php |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
if you use a clothes pin that's trimmed down a little, it will help hole the tube to the brush hood, allowing you to focus on soldering it.
Make sure you don't mess up the spring holders. http://www.rcboataholic.com/images/OM/OvalMaster1.jpg And also check your comm. If it is worn down or black, then you need to get it cut. This will cut down on heat, increase efficiency, and produce more power. Go to your LHS to get this done, or buy this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKSY9&P=7 Needs a motor: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKUG5&P=V If your not going brushless any time soon, a lathe is a great investment, as it will last forever. More complete setup: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLBB7&P=7 Pretty much the best lathe out there: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNB54&P=7 (besies the new Hudy one.) |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
flyfloater - good work on that hatch mod! Glad to hear that the 8cell pack worked out too! Did you put any reinforcement on that 8cel pack?
Come by tonight and get my raytech temp gun if you want. |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
ORIGINAL: 1983shovelhead flyfloater - good work on that hatch mod! Glad to hear that the 8cell pack worked out too! Did you put any reinforcement on that 8cel pack? Come by tonight and get my raytech temp gun if you want. |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
when cooling your motor, if you want the ultimate in cooling, i'd run two separate pickups, one for just the brushes, and another for the can and esc.
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RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
You are really pushing that motor with 8 cells and the stock 32mm prop.A X435 would make it worse-I would go to a X430 which is 30mm.The proboat shaft is 3mm which makes prop selection difficult-less cells or a smaller prop will reduce amp draw and run cooler.I have run the same shaft and prop on a 15 turn Orion motor on 6 cells and it only gets warm.[8D]
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RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
ORIGINAL: sportygreg ....I have run the sam shaft and prop on a 15 turn Orion motor on 6 cells and it only gets warm.[8D] |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
see if your comm is worn. It sounds like that might be the problem.
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RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
also, when was the last time you lubed your driveshaft?
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RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
I've never lubed it, but I have only put about 10 packs through the boat. I guess it's probably due. I am sure I should have done it before I ever put it in the water, chances are it wasn't done properly at the factory. The motor is a bran new trinity spec motor, I would hope it doesn't have any issues yet. I will do the brush cooling and lube the driveshaft first and see where that gets me. Thanks.
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RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
the first thing you should have done is soak the shaft with marine grease. (Or lithium grease)
Some mod motors have to have the comm cut every 5 runs. |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
Hi Again
If the orginal prop is 1.34 " dia then Its just slightly bigger than 34mm not 32mm. What i'm getting at with talk about the prop being efficent is it will go faster with less power . The orginal plastic prop being rather flexible,it will waste some of your power when it distorts. A X430 will likely be too small for many uses in this big of a boat. The X432 metal prop works for almost everything. If I had the out drive on my bench I would make a different short shaft that would have 4mm threads to make use of the Graupner line of K series CF props. They work great and are about $6 ea and come in a great many sizes. From 29mm up to 45mm. I do a lot of custom driveline work and specialize in motor couplers. The advice to cool the motor is right on and should be done when possible. Always oil the prop shaft and motor bushings. I have seen too many prop shafts seize up because of running dry. A great many racers that I know lube em up before every run. n.h.schmidt |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
AHA!!! I knew you havn't been lubing your shaft!! :)
Bro I usually break mine down the night after we've run the boats and lube it up. If you want to get the tube of marine grease I have and my temp gun tonight just give me a ring. I'm not sure I can get to the lake tonight or not. |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
Also, having grease on the shaft will help stop water from coming into your boat.
I am having the sam problem with my blast, and i am going to convert it to flex cable drive very soon. They leak way less. |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
ORIGINAL: n.h.schmidt Hi Again If the orginal prop is 1.34 " dia then Its just slightly bigger than 34mm not 32mm. What i'm getting at with talk about the prop being efficent is it will go faster with less power . The orginal plastic prop being rather flexible,it will waste some of your power when it distorts. A X430 will likely be too small for many uses in this big of a boat. The X432 metal prop works for almost everything. If I had the out drive on my bench I would make a different short shaft that would have 4mm threads to make use of the Graupner line of K series CF props. They work great and are about $6 ea and come in a great many sizes. From 29mm up to 45mm. I do a lot of custom driveline work and specialize in motor couplers. The advice to cool the motor is right on and should be done when possible. Always oil the prop shaft and motor bushings. I have seen too many prop shafts seize up because of running dry. A great many racers that I know lube em up before every run. n.h.schmidt |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
a 632 might not be a bad choice.
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RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
ORIGINAL: j.m. a 632 might not be a bad choice. |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
1 Attachment(s)
Well, I went ahead and cooled the end of the motor and lubed everything else real nice. It may not be pretty but I think it will work very well. There is alot of extra solder to fill the joints but I figure it conducts heat a lot better than air so slop it on in. I am ashamed to say the drive shaft was definately in need of lube, but at least it wasn't "start the boat on fire" dry. It is considerably quieter now 1983shovelhead, thanks for the lube, you are the man. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions, and I will post a video of the result on Sat (with 1983shovelhead's help).
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RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
looking good!
Also, don't forget to play around with drive angle adjustment. It plays a pretty big role in top end speed. |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
flyfloaters Apache down at the swimmin' hole this morning-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcCb-TFVdz8 |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
ORIGINAL: 1983shovelhead flyfloaters Apache down at the swimmin' hole this morning- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcCb-TFVdz8 |
RE: PROBOAT APACHE 24
Hey flyfloater, that boat looks awsome! I would remove the sticker off of the motor so that you have metal to metal to make the cooling coil more effective.
The prop size of all the Pro Boat boats that use the strudder us 1/8 inch shafts. Any prop that will fit the Vegas, Bud, Ellum...will fit these boats. Grim racer props are a good choice. Just dont go too big. Octura makes quite a few 1/8th inch props too. I dont have an apache but I have two Nitro BJ26 boats, one with an OS .18 with stock drive and grim prop. Good to see this little boat is attracting some attention. I was debating getting one of these or a Traxxas Blast just to play with but I think I'll stick with the cat since I like their look alot better. Teh cool thing is that the inside of the boat can be trimmed as needed to fit any extra equiptment. A little epxoy goes a long way;) P.S. YEs, strudder angle and height affect these boats greatly. The slightest adjustment can make a world of difference. |
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