BigBoats507

The problem is the tape makes a straight line to where I want it to go, I want it curved like a actual boat lol this is frustrating!

BigBoats507

This should be the final result but the front end will float a little higher, if yo ulook closely at the boat reflection it shows the old design, so you can see the difference

animalnut

I,m trying to get some ideas on exhaust you got any pics of how you set that up?

BigBoats507

 if your running a weed eater motor a cheap way would to go with your own copper pipe which would be straight and then at the end im running like a silencer and then one more piece of 1 inch and exiting through 1/2", I do not have the pipe here but I will draw a picture of it. My dad is a Appliance dude so he has all the equipment to do it, and the silencer was off some cooling hing on a fridge but there hard to come by.

Then just get a hole in the top of it solder on a T connection and water cool your pipe like im doing

BigBoats507

BigBoats507

I have made my first cut, now I just need help on getting the cut on the otherside in the same place :/ ??

cheesewizz69

I thought I would share a picture of the wet exhaust my dad and I made for my first Apache.

BigBoats507

Thats pretty sweet! how did it soundd?? I like the twin output idea I might just try that!

BigBoats507

I need help, I cant seem to know if the line I drew on the other side, when I cut it, it will be the same as the side I already cut

cheesewizz69

BigBoats507

ive seen that on Youtube many many times lol Thats awesome though, ill be making another boat after this hopefully it will go close to the same speed, or faster. I just downloaded plans for a outrigger, im gonna build it with my left over weed eaters and just test on those. I got the sides cut, whats my next step on the big boat ???

cheesewizz69

Seal the wood before joining the deck. It also a good time to add the stringers, fuel tray,and transom plate.It would be much easier to mark and drill all the holes for the engine and radio box in the rails now before the deck goes on. Ooh and dont forget to add the pool noodles.

BigBoats507

ahahah yes pool needles are on my top 5 to do list. I got a new work desk so I write all my inventions and thoughts on it so that list is on it! Today I will be going to Lowes for 2 sheets of Luan board, one for the 2nd boat and the other for my deck, and then some stain, more fiberglass, some metak rails, couple paint cans, and anything I can find for my water cooling system in the aquarium section at walmart aahha, then sears and ill be good im just gonna have to sand alot more now. I designed a pipe today hopefully its not "Stealing" your idea but here it is!

martno1fan

Seal the top deck with epoxy,use an old credit card and scrape off the exess as you go and build up the coats probs 3 will do,sand between coats.You can also use a paper towl or rag to remove most exess resin that way you wont have as much sanding to do.
Mart

cheesewizz69

By all means use the idea. Just so you know I used a high temp silcone exhaust hose to make a flex connection between the header pipe and the rest of the exhaust system. If you make it a ridgid connection it will fail.

You don't need to fiberglass the deck but all of the wood must be sealed even if you stain it first. Don't forget to seal the inside of the deck.... Again I would recommend west systems expoy. There should be some threads about it.

BigBoats507

I have the exhaust prints already sent to our machine shop, for the hose connection from the motor I took one of one of my practice bikes (I race motocross).

BigBoats507

That epoxy is 155.00 ..... I cant spend that, anything cheaper?? aha??aha?

BigBoats507

Hows this ??? http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-BOAT...ht_32440wt_946

cheesewizz69

Inever used that ???? West system should be about $40 for what you need.

BigBoats507

can you maybe send me a link?? will I need alot if I do the hull and lid?

BigBoats507

when it comes to the hardware I mounted my drive set-up almost over a 1/4" of where its supposed to be (Someone told me it has to be a 1/4" above the bottom of the V).

Do you think if I took bondo and filled in the 5 holes it would work and not fall apart when I drill the second sett?? it should I think :/

BigBoats507

when it comes to the hardware I mounted my drive set-up almost over a 1/4" of where its supposed to be (Someone told me it has to be a 1/4" above the bottom of the V).

Do you think if I took bondo and filled in the 5 holes it would work and not fall apart when I drill the second sett?? it should I think :/

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

You may be able to lower the strut blade (propeller support blade) by loosening the screw that hold it secure and sliding the blade down (the blade has a slotted hole in it for adjustment). This would save re-positioning the drive on the transom. Other wise you will need to fill the holes. I would use epoxy to fill the holes when you are sealing your hull.

martno1fan

Before you seal the hull id sand it to get it as smooth as possible then seal it.If the ride surface isnt smooth or straight then the hull wont run well.
Mart

jquid

Put your pickup tube behind the prop. This way the propwash is your pump while sitting at idle. Or if you have a clutch on the motor, and it is disengaged while at idle, I would go with a small electric water pump. Put a microswitch mounted on or by the throttle servo. Then when you bring it down to idle, the switch closes, and turns on the pump.

Also if you are going to use the tupperware for a radio box, don't. You will need a servo with a bunch or power to turn that hull at speed. That means strong servo rails, mounted to a strong box, mounted to the hull. Other-wise any servo rails you put in that plastic will rip out, and or the box will rip out. you do not want that thing heading towards shore, or away from or towards anyone uncontrolled at full speed.

So just build a box out of 1/4 plywood. Then it can be waterproofed with epoxy thinned and brushed on. Then a lexan lid with rubber for a gasket and screwed down. you can get the lexan from McMaster Carr. as well as the gasket material, screws. Use Lexan, Acrylic can shatter, or crack easily when drilling holes in it.

Hope that helps give you some ideas.