lever02

Had a good day, was able to fly a good bit (full scale boat traffic was absent) and sorted out the transom hardware!

mistycreekboats

My Feedback: (1)

did your boat come with a transom layout sheet? Or a build instruction sheet for this hull?

lever02

No layout, Ross is guiding me through the build as well as you guys. Do you see a problem? Mr. Park said he will ship my engine today!

expresscraft

I do not see a problem just make sure your rudder lines up with your servo height wise, If you line it up with the right hand engine rail you will be fine.I do not care for lay out sheets, Aero marine is the one company I know who includes them with there boats,But they also make there own hardware. You can be sure there is a cost to have them printed that is passed on to the buyer. with all the hardware available and engines there is no way a set up sheet will work for all, Right of the bat with your boat and your inline you need to have the drive mounted higher on the hull then you would with a single.To me with the internet printed goods are a waste.I wish my kid had a tablet and a program with every book he will ever need all the way through college.It would save a lot of money for the schools,not so hard on his back and prepare him for the world he will be living in.

lever02

The rudder servo dictated where the rudder was mounted. It's a good thing because I really wanted to mount it a little higher I notice you guys don't use a water proof bellows thingy at the transom for the rudder pushrod. Why is that? I remember my daughters back pack, weighed 1/2 what she weighed. Threatened to cut the straps on the darn thing.

expresscraft

You can use a push rod seal on the out going linkage if you want, But its more important to just make sure your radio box is sealed good, Your rudder looks fine, A straight shot to the servo from the control horn is important.You already know this from your planes.

lever02

OK, the plan is to use a stainless 256 rod epoxied into a carbon fiber rod. Stiff as heck and cosmetically pleasing. It also will be a snug fit so little water intrusion anyway. I have not purchased an auto bailer and will if needed.
I have several JR 2.4 stick radios, that being said I cannot find any posts where the spectrum receivers get good reviews. I don't mind using a stick radio but if I have to go Futaba, a wheeled radio appears to be the best option. Liking the telemetry aspect just for the temp sensors alone. I'm at a loss to why they don't have a tach that works off the ignition circuit (or do they?) gluing magnets to something that's turning 18 grand is not an option.
I HAVE A TRACKING NUMBER FOR MY ENGINE!!!! Not sure what how long it will take to get that engine here, thinking 7 to 10 days?

expresscraft

there is nothing wrong with a stick radio, they are different for boats then most would use but being a airplane guy you will probably do just fine with one, there are tach's I do not know where to tell you to go or who makes them but I would look at gizmo motors.com for starters.Might want to consider 4-40 rod over 256 and I would be looking at 400 oz servo for steering. less will turn the boat.But if you take my advise you will never go back to less.

lever02

Thanks Tom, I will give servo city a look, Ross had recommended the 200oz.

lever02

Engine Arrived! Noticed right off only one throttle linkage, thinking I would have to fight two. Life is good.

expresscraft

I think Boss330 is a member here on RCU. He is a great guy and can tell you a lot about the inlines, They are very good but they do have there little issues that need to be dealt with,Park has made some improvements so I do not want to drum up things that may no longer apply. Al (Boss330) is not trying to sell anything he is just a boater with probably more hours with the inlines then anyone, and is a very knowledgeable engine guy as well.Everything he touches goes fast.

lever02

Great I will give him a shout, work is keeping me busy, double shifts at that. Need to make some time for the Phantom.

expresscraft

work pays for the phantom. LOL that boat will be there when you have time,That's the great thing about modeling.when you do get time you can get away from the gotta get it done world and just enjoy your hobby.

expresscraft

I did not post pictures of the rails being put in, The rails are at 5" as the spacer used is 5" then the rail tape is added to hold the rails in place, this tape impedes on that 5" space but can be removed as needed, also your ruber isolaters can be sanded some as well 1/16 off each side is a 1/8" witch is very big. If the rails are more then 5" and you pull them in while tightening the mount bolts you can distort the boat.very tight even needing to be relieved is the lessor of the two evils,

lever02

So I can just remove 1/16 off each side or replace my rubber mounts with shorter models from Mcmaster Carr? Problem solved. Now let's talk about the next hurdle. The balance point at 30% would be 21 inches from the transom. This puts the engine too far to the rear. Way too much tuned pipe out the rear. My only option is to get the pipe length close to what it should be with the appropriate amount of pipe out the transom and mount the engine there. Add weight to balance.. Am I missing something?
There's more, The exhaust flanges are too large as one overlaps the other. Can't mount but one as the bolt holes for the other don't mate up. Also the cooling flange port is a lot smaller than the exhaust opening on the engine. Seems like an issue to me. Loving all this. These are problems I didn't see coming.

Thinking....12 1/2 inches from center of header to start of band on the pipe? Or 13 1/2 inches to center of the band. Also puts the pull start at the leading edge of the hatch opening.

expresscraft

The right pipes would be 2 of the deep v pipes from quick draw,Tell them you have a k-600 they can stagger the headers one high one low with the right flanges. they will fit inside the boat.I would just sand your rubber mounts a little the mounts screws will still pick up the threads you are only talking 1/16" off each side.

lever02

Talked to Al at Hanson and got some good numbers on pipe length. this puts the engine in an acceptable location with the pipes out the transom at an appropriate length. The rails at the top are at 4 7/8" and the bottoms where there's glass cloth at 4 3/4". Mcmaster Carr saved the day with the shorter isolation mounts. They will arrive tomorrow. I will only have to cut a relief in the rails to suit the mags on each side. May even get to balance at 29% instead of the 30%. Working on the exhaust flange replacement issue.

lever02

Removed the pawl off the crank today to install the easy start, was an interesting job. I cheated a bit as I read a four year old post by Danielplace 1962 on how to do it. Worked a 16 hour day so I can only do little bits at a time. http://www.modelgasboats.com/forum/1...-rcmk?start=10

lever02

Engine is in!! Are you guys soldering the flex cable after cutting?

expresscraft

No, you do not need to.Just make sure it is not binding anywhere,and lines up perfect to your collet.

redlinemotors

Tom at Expresscraft makes some great large scale hulls, we have gone over 80mph with his cats.

lever02

Finally got a minute to work on the Phantom..

lever02

Will be interesting when it's time to tighten these...

expresscraft

A lot of guys use a two bolt manifold because of that problem. You just need to cut your alllen wrench off real close to the bend and it will get in there. your boat is looking good.

lever02

Thanks, I have one cut from a previous project, a quarter turn at a time. And a lot of patience! Another note, I picked up some longer stainless bolts to make up the distance lost when the clutch, easy start spacer, and the throttle bracket were added. May be over thinking, but I just feel better about it. getting closer!