21 Tunnel Talk
#253
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Thanks guys, I'll look them up.
By the way... The RC article I was creating for FloatWays is done. Check it out here:
http://floatways.com/1522/absolute-r...loving-racers/
I'll likely set up a proper thread for it tomorrow. I'm tired.
By the way... The RC article I was creating for FloatWays is done. Check it out here:
http://floatways.com/1522/absolute-r...loving-racers/
I'll likely set up a proper thread for it tomorrow. I'm tired.
#254
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Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
I've seen the Cricket ads too, wonder if it cuts the thicker 3M auto grade stuff with program fonts,
Dunno.....Good idea thou,
Gene
Dunno.....Good idea thou,
Gene
#255
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Well, I need to send in EPS files, cause it's all custom graphics. But... I found a guy locally that'll do them all for $40! So I'm going for that.
I'll keep you posted on the results...
I'll keep you posted on the results...
#256
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Yea, That sounds fair ta me.........
One of my locals quoted me 50 buck custom font fee and then 25 for one set of graphics,
I said thanks and left LOL!
Gene
One of my locals quoted me 50 buck custom font fee and then 25 for one set of graphics,
I said thanks and left LOL!
Gene
#257
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
So I finished my FloatWays VS1 this last weekend and ran it for the very first time on Sunday! I was impressed. I took my time to build the thing and it's obvious it paid off. The boat ran perfectly straight and the initial trim wasn't that bad. I ran 6 tanks, not a single problem! Plus, I had set the servo turning end points and the turning speed and all felt spot on.
The engine I bought used, but I'm not sure how much it had been run, so I'm treating it like a new engine and breaking it in. Plus, I'm not good at setting these engines yet, so running rich is a good idea as to not break it.
I think I'm running the carb at tad leaner than the OS recommended setting for break-in. So instead of 2.5 turns open, I'm running the needle at 2.75 turns open.
I've got some pictures and video coming soon. I just don't have them here. In the meantime, there's a photo of it on the wall of the FloatWays facebook page [link=http://facebook.com/floatways]here[/link].
The engine I bought used, but I'm not sure how much it had been run, so I'm treating it like a new engine and breaking it in. Plus, I'm not good at setting these engines yet, so running rich is a good idea as to not break it.
I think I'm running the carb at tad leaner than the OS recommended setting for break-in. So instead of 2.5 turns open, I'm running the needle at 2.75 turns open.
I've got some pictures and video coming soon. I just don't have them here. In the meantime, there's a photo of it on the wall of the FloatWays facebook page [link=http://facebook.com/floatways]here[/link].
#259
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Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
From your roving reporter.........
It seems Rod G bought a Lynx (Or lynx copy unsure)
Might just be me, Anyone else wondering what his plans are ?
He did say he would modify it if the needs be........
News at 11:00
Gene
Added a pic:
It seems Rod G bought a Lynx (Or lynx copy unsure)
Might just be me, Anyone else wondering what his plans are ?
He did say he would modify it if the needs be........
News at 11:00
Gene
Added a pic:
#260
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Testing 123, Had a weird timeout message there.....
Just checked Tower and was amazed at the latest TS3 pricing......
All colors but yellow $114.96
But if ya want YELLOW $149.97........$35.01 difference for a color?
Makes me dizzy!
Gene
Hey JD if ya read this send a lil birdy over to Rod's house and see what he doin
Just checked Tower and was amazed at the latest TS3 pricing......
All colors but yellow $114.96
But if ya want YELLOW $149.97........$35.01 difference for a color?
Makes me dizzy!
Gene
Hey JD if ya read this send a lil birdy over to Rod's house and see what he doin
#261
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Hey guys,
Is there a trick to soldering the pull-pull cables into the threaded soldering couplers ?
I have soldering experience and have done tons of electronics... But this is DIFFERENT.
I apply heat to both parts and use soldering flux. I fill the hole in the coupler with melt solder and stick the hot cable in there. Then I apply more heat before letting it cool with zero movement to avoid a weak cold solder.
I've ran the boat a couple of times with no problems.
However, last night one of them came undone while I was working on the engine.
What am I doing wrong. I'm using standard rosin core solder. Am I supposed to use something else?
Is there a trick to soldering the pull-pull cables into the threaded soldering couplers ?
I have soldering experience and have done tons of electronics... But this is DIFFERENT.
I apply heat to both parts and use soldering flux. I fill the hole in the coupler with melt solder and stick the hot cable in there. Then I apply more heat before letting it cool with zero movement to avoid a weak cold solder.
I've ran the boat a couple of times with no problems.
However, last night one of them came undone while I was working on the engine.
What am I doing wrong. I'm using standard rosin core solder. Am I supposed to use something else?
#262
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Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Danny, I use stay brite silver solder, no failures in a long time.
Local electronic supply should have some.
Here's a pic.......
Gene
Local electronic supply should have some.
Here's a pic.......
Gene
#263
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Hi Gene,
Hmmm, I'll give that a try.
I had the idea of soldering, then crimping the sleeve where the sable is soldered into. My guess is it should make the whole thing stronger, but I might be wrong. Unfortunately, I used the wrong tool to crimp and nearly cut through the sleeve and cable itself! But that doesn't mean it won't work if done right.
I'm fine tuning my boat with help from Rodney P. So far I've made some adjustments to the engine height and tilt, but I'm also replacing the throttle cable - I originally made at a bit too short. It works but fine tuning is a PITA and I can't get the boat to idle without having my hand on the radio. (too open).
I'm also adjusting the COG with a couple of stick-on lead weights. Currently the COG on my VS1 is at 7.5" from the further riding surface of the sponsons. I want to try and bring that up to 8"
Hmmm, I'll give that a try.
I had the idea of soldering, then crimping the sleeve where the sable is soldered into. My guess is it should make the whole thing stronger, but I might be wrong. Unfortunately, I used the wrong tool to crimp and nearly cut through the sleeve and cable itself! But that doesn't mean it won't work if done right.
I'm fine tuning my boat with help from Rodney P. So far I've made some adjustments to the engine height and tilt, but I'm also replacing the throttle cable - I originally made at a bit too short. It works but fine tuning is a PITA and I can't get the boat to idle without having my hand on the radio. (too open).
I'm also adjusting the COG with a couple of stick-on lead weights. Currently the COG on my VS1 is at 7.5" from the further riding surface of the sponsons. I want to try and bring that up to 8"
#264
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Hi Danny,
Well I dont know bout crimp after solder.....
I tin the end of the cable and put a drop of flux in the coupler,
Add even heat and let the silver solder flow in till the coupler is full.
The silver content in stay brite is WAY stronger than the std 60/40 rosin core solder.
Glad to hear your getting the boat dialed in,
Sounds like your close,
Gene
Well I dont know bout crimp after solder.....
I tin the end of the cable and put a drop of flux in the coupler,
Add even heat and let the silver solder flow in till the coupler is full.
The silver content in stay brite is WAY stronger than the std 60/40 rosin core solder.
Glad to hear your getting the boat dialed in,
Sounds like your close,
Gene
#265
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Yeah, I'm going to run by Frys and see if I can find that stuff. I'm sure they must have it. I find that rosin core doesn't mix well with the brass and/or stainless steel these things are plated with. No matter how much heat I apply the rosin core acts like oil, it sort slips all over the place and doesn't quite "blend" with the material.
#266
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Yup, know what ya mean, I use DuBro couplers, not as bad as some others.
Try sloshing your parts in isopropyl alcohol before soldering helps too,
Gene
Try sloshing your parts in isopropyl alcohol before soldering helps too,
Gene
#267
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Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Been almost a year, So what ya got on tha tunnel burner for 2013 ?
Carl V has some new models, Havent heard a release date yet.
Gene
Im still runnin VS1 and collecting outboard parts.......
Current pics below
Added note:
Mike Z has shelved the Nemesis (first pic) And running VS1/TS3 next year.
Carl V has some new models, Havent heard a release date yet.
Gene
Im still runnin VS1 and collecting outboard parts.......
Current pics below
Added note:
Mike Z has shelved the Nemesis (first pic) And running VS1/TS3 next year.
#268
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
I plan to continue running my VS1/O.S. Ver. 2 for 2013. The boat/engine combination has won the NAMBA District 8 20 Stock Tunnel Class the past two years.
JD
JD
#269
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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
I've cut expenses (building any new boats) - I don't race (cause there's no racing around here)… But I'm happily enjoying my VS1 / OS21 at least once a month. For me it really is a hobby
#270
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Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Hey Guy's
The PSRP Villain series that became the VS1 has winning rep for sure.
TS2/TS3 is a mover too, The FE guy's are knockin all over 70 mph.
Gene
Added pics of orig series:
The PSRP Villain series that became the VS1 has winning rep for sure.
TS2/TS3 is a mover too, The FE guy's are knockin all over 70 mph.
Gene
Added pics of orig series:
#271
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Also a couple more in wood (my fav)
Gen 2 ML295 with a new cowl and a few changes (on the right)
And Breakthru 4 or 5 from David Moyle in Oz
Nice work guy's
Gene
Recent update: ML has stoped tunnel hull production,
Info in screenshot........
Gen 2 ML295 with a new cowl and a few changes (on the right)
And Breakthru 4 or 5 from David Moyle in Oz
Nice work guy's
Gene
Recent update: ML has stoped tunnel hull production,
Info in screenshot........
#274
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Heck yeah Man,
With your recent pond expansion you got enough room to really wind it out.
Nice work by the way, Looking good!
Gene
Added pics:
A 28" Woodstuff by Mike Crawford
And my retro KaBoom /Oz pipe
With your recent pond expansion you got enough room to really wind it out.
Nice work by the way, Looking good!
Gene
Added pics:
A 28" Woodstuff by Mike Crawford
And my retro KaBoom /Oz pipe
#275
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Something new from Mike at ML Boatworks.....
The 300 series Nitro or FE, as a frame up kit or WOF,
Check his post at IW for details and release dates.
Gene
The 300 series Nitro or FE, as a frame up kit or WOF,
Check his post at IW for details and release dates.
Gene