Miller American
11-08-2013, 06:41 PM
#1
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Miller American
I have a Dumas 1/8 Scale Miss Miller American with a KB .67 that I am going to build over the winter for racing next year.
Need some advise for a prop, tank (12-14), tuned pipe, recommendations for the two servos, motor mount and any other bits and pieces I cannot source locally.
Need some advise for a prop, tank (12-14), tuned pipe, recommendations for the two servos, motor mount and any other bits and pieces I cannot source locally.
11-10-2013, 01:42 AM
#2
I would start out by replacing the mahogany parts with aircraft grade birch from the hobby shop. If you are really planning on racing, you may want to look at a CMB .67 as the K&Bs are very outdated and impossible to get parts for. As far as hardware, Speedmaster makes good stuff so I'll post a link below. You may want to check this thread out as well. It may show you some things that will help you out. Just rest remember that the subject in the thread is a 30" boat rather than a 43" boat and you'll be fine
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/speed-rc-nitro-boats-117/10666178-re-engineering-dumas-payn-pak.html
http://www.rossisales.com/
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/speed-rc-nitro-boats-117/10666178-re-engineering-dumas-payn-pak.html
http://www.rossisales.com/
11-11-2013, 06:11 PM
#3
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I read all the posts on the Bad Dumas wood. This appears solid with no delamination, warpage etc. Its a relatively old kit. I am going with it. If it self destructs I will salvage and go with a new boat. The K&B is brand new never run so I am going with it. 
I will be refering to your thread as Dumas Instructions suck
11-13-2013, 02:58 AM
#5
The reason I say to use the mahogany as templates is two-fold:
1) The mahogany is very heavy and has a very wide grain. This will require a lot of filling and cleaning to get a good finish which adds additional weight that will ultimately affect how well the boat runs. In general, the lighter a hydroplane is built, the better it will run as it's not trying to carry a bunch of weight
2) If the boat is damaged, having the original parts available to trace new ones from will make repairing the boat considerably easier. Trying to guess at what the parts look like to make replacements is almost impossible due to possible water related swelling, breaking and such to the installed parts after any structural damaging crash
1) The mahogany is very heavy and has a very wide grain. This will require a lot of filling and cleaning to get a good finish which adds additional weight that will ultimately affect how well the boat runs. In general, the lighter a hydroplane is built, the better it will run as it's not trying to carry a bunch of weight
2) If the boat is damaged, having the original parts available to trace new ones from will make repairing the boat considerably easier. Trying to guess at what the parts look like to make replacements is almost impossible due to possible water related swelling, breaking and such to the installed parts after any structural damaging crash
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 11-13-2013 at 03:01 AM.
11-13-2013, 04:43 PM
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Yup the last one one the end . I think it's 2 pieces were all the holes are drilled.The doubler were the strut bracket angles are located need a better ply.. Better do the turnfin bracket area with a better plywood. 1 sheet of 12"x24" x1/8" is only a few bucks.
11-14-2013, 01:52 AM
#8
The mahogany is the darker internal framing, transoms, engine bay walls and sponson insides. By the time you get them all filled and smoothed out, you will be adding several ounces/grams to the weight of the boat and that's not a good thing. I have to agree with Advanced Builder on the transoms. Replacing the right sponson and rear transoms is a good thing as the mahogany supplied is very soft by comparison to other preferred woods such as birch that the skin pieces are made from. Something else you need to be aware of is the mahogany is thinner than what's claimed in most Dumas kits. Instead of being 1/8"(3mm), it's only 3/32"(2.5mm). Another benefit of reworking the kit with better materials is that you won't need to use toothpicks as shims to tighten up the joints.
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 11-14-2013 at 01:57 AM.
12-27-2013, 07:09 AM
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A 1/4 scale servo will work you want over 100 oz pull any standard servo 50 oz pull. Your LHS may have a special on servos going on.
http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/r...calehydro.html
look at the links http://rcboatcompany.com/Wings.html
http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/r...calehydro.html
look at the links http://rcboatcompany.com/Wings.html
Last edited by advanced builder; 12-27-2013 at 07:13 AM.
03-03-2014, 12:53 AM
#16
Looking good. If it were mine, I'd take a Dremel with a 90* drive and hog out some of the material in the frames in the nontrips and in the sponsons to lighten it up some more. There are a few other things I also see that I would do prior to epoxying the deck on, that is if you're interested
06-18-2014, 05:01 PM
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Double seal the fuel & engine bay area walls and bulkheads, it gets nitro messy sometimes.I like to brush resin on a area then wipe off after a few mins. Resin will seal the wood pours on the first coat 2nd seals the wood. Looks nice and neat when done. ,not a heavy build up. Some paper towels will fall apart, i like a old cotton t shirt.A 3rd coat if unsure of what your doing. Resin,fiberglass filler, paint adds weight.I say a light fiberglass cloth to the outside.Many will say no glass why do I like to glass the outside. All the moving and bumping getting the hull in the car getting it out, inside the house.. Use a credit card when you laying down fiberglass cloth.Helps to lay the cloth flat and remove excess resin.Trim off edges after its dry Practice on the bottom first, then more to the top. You'll get the hang of it.
. Looks good
Neil
. Looks good
Neil
08-17-2014, 12:41 PM
#23
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CG right now is about an inch behind the center bulkhead, of course only the fuel tank is installed. Going to wait on the rest of the epoxy paint in the motor area until I get more the HW installed. Thought about the Fiberglass or Carbon fiber on the outside of the hull. Not going to do it. I feel it will add to much weight with my skills. Might try it on something else later though.
08-17-2014, 04:28 PM
#24
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The CoG will work out fine. Useing the bracket& fin that came with the kit. The fin is kinda outdated ,with the newer fins having the curl in at the bottom. Run it with what you have. You can always add a newer style later if your unhappy with turning and holding down the hull going into a wind.They like to blow over if the turn fin is running positive angle. A good fin setup will help to hold the hull down onto the water. One can always add lead weights to the sponson tips after a few runs.if needed. If you blow over ,the wing gets damaged then ,I found that one out the hard way.
08-18-2014, 06:46 AM
#25
Not all boats like or need a hooked fin. My Elam has a straight fin, angled inward, and it turns just fine. In fact, the boat is considerably faster than the driver at this point. Since I'm presently at work, I can't post any pictures at the moment. I will do so when I do get home.