brownvhf

I went out and run the boat today and still quit running at 8 1/2 minutes. when I got the boat back into shore I still had 1/8 tank of fuel left in it. I have no air leaks as they have been fixed but I noticed the fuel line got quite warm as it was almost touching the cooling fins on the engine. Could this be a vapor lock problem? I'll find out tommorrow as I'll wrap the line and try it again.
Wave Walker do you have a model number on that mac header pipe as I need one and that one sounds a lot better than what were running now. Jerry

brownvhf

I'm running 20% Blue Thunder in my boat and also my nitro truck. Its what the manual recomends so if there is a problem they will have to fix it. Jerry

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

OK Jerry, this isn't a lone instance then. I've been studying pix to see where the problem is. The fuel pressure fittings that I see and lines are large enough to feed the fuel but wondering other things also.
Wave Walker placed another tank towards the transom and isn't using the stock tank. It could be where the fuel pressure nipple is located on the header doing it also as it should have been on the tuned pipe instead. I don't think that he had any trouble so it has to be something to do with the tank itself. I used to have the same problem with my 7.5 OB tunnel doing this using Sullivan tanks. Once I got one of Grimracer's fuel cells in here, it went away.
There is plenty of room in the sponsons to place tanks on either or both sides alongside of or behind the engine. It looks like there would be no problem putting in 6-8 oz. tanks plus it helped to move the CG back.

brownvhf

Hi Ron and had no problems at all for the first 6 tanks of fuel. I've had trouble since with 11 tanks used now. This is a 12 oa tank and thinking that I was running 132degrees after a run at 6 tanks and today was up to 165 degrees after the run. So this problem seemed to show up after I started leaning the carb out and running faster. I'm still a little on the rich side but very close. Jerry

FE_Chris

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, I am gonna be all over this issue this week. I did'nt have time to run today, I slept and was taking care of things at the house here.

I really can't think of what it could be. I have no leaks in my fuel system. Like ron said, the fuel comes from the bottom of the tank...So its not like it's being starved. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Anyone else got ANYTHING to try? ANYTHING. I don't care what it is. I am pretty sure my engine is sealed too. I sealed the carb and backplate with RTV myself before the engine was even ever run. All my screws are tight..............darn proboat.......

FE_Chris

My Feedback: (2)

lol...I just read ron's post. I am going to go search for fuel tanks.

Is there any problems running 2 tanks? I suppose you would just have to run fuel line from one to the other and daisy chain them together.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

No problem with running twin tanks as a lot of racers use a small 1 or 2 oz. hopper tank. If you make more right turns than left, you'd run the pressure line to the left tank then its fuel line to the right tank vent line then to the carb.
Jerry, that's throwing a little more spin to it as if it's going lean towards the bottom of the tank which could happen if the carb is lean at the start. As the tank empties, it isn't pushing enough pressure through the tank to feed the carb enough, starving it. Eight to 10 ounces of fuel should be enough for decent run times. With all of that fuel in the nose could also be one reason why it cavitates when first launched so that it telling me that the CG is too far forward. WW was wondering why I got the tape measure out as I was seeing where the engine was mounted at. It looked like the CG was set at over 30% forward of the transom, a little far forward for a Cat. A fingertip balancing act would tell better with an empty tank.

HobieHernandez

My Feedback: (1)

I put my shockwave up against the thundercat and it all seems to be laid out the same..I had no problem running out a tank in the SW,Did anyone ever complain about the SW doing this??

JPriami

My Feedback: (21)

Who has taken their head shims out already? And how many did you take out? What ones did you leave in? Did it make a diffrence?

JPriami

My Feedback: (21)

So do you feel that your boat wont run that prop (M445) unless your running the 65% nitro? Have you tried running it on the 20%?
And if your running the M445 on the 65% try running the M447 prop on that fuel. You'll break 40mph then I bet. But it sucks you have to spend $50 dollars on fuel then.
Is it safe to think that the higher nitro content fuel the shorter the engine life?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The $50.00 was for 2 gallons of 65%, a bargain if you've checked hobby shop prices. The higher nitro isn't the problem as long as you have enough oil in it. You will have a little less runtime as you do have to richen the carb.
What I see slowing it down is the small "sport" carb. I've tried swapping out for larger carbs and have seen big gains in speed just with that modification.

Hobie, I don't remember seeing anyone having fuel problems with the SW 36's.

JPriami

My Feedback: (21)

Ron,
Where is a good place to order that fuel then? Or get it? I called my LHS and they said they could order it but I'd have to buy the whole case . Not many boaters out here local.

Also you said you have tried swapping out the small sport carb for a larger carb on these eninges. What carb was used to swap it out with? I've been looking all over for someone saying they have done this & to say what carb they used.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

I order [link=http://members.aol.com/FHSoil/RedMax.html]Redmax[/link] from FHS. Unfortunately, it's not cheap if you're only buying a gallon. My last order was 12 gallons. I'll probably order another 12 gallons soon.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Mark picked it up for us directly from Wildcat. He was more than willing to go get us some more as he's been checking out the secretary there!
The problem is that you have to order 4-gallon cases then pay a HazMat fee from anyone when buying gallon jugs yet none if you bought 8 gallons worth of quarts but they sock you more for buying quarts in the first place, almost as much as gallons so they've got you either way.
You can store the extra fuel. I've got some that may be 3 years old and not afraid to use it. I keep it stored in the dark area of my basement off the floor.

On the carb, it would be nice to find out the bore of the carb boss on the Dynamite case as something like a K&B Red carb might be able to be adapted to fit in there. I did hear of someone who did use a large plane carb from something like a .61-.67 and had it cut down to fit in there.

JPriami

My Feedback: (21)

Been looking at prop specs today. I was thinking of ordering the M445 since it did such work for getting DodamissC's TC31 up to 37Mph.
But I noticed something odd. My last prop I tried was the prather stainless 225 and was seeing speeds of 34mph with the extra weight of the GPS unit strapped to it. About 8+ oz its weighs. But it seemed faster with the gps off. So who knows what it was really doing.

Anyways I wrote the numbers down and scratched my head

MAKE.......MODEL............DIA................... .......PITCH................RATIO
................................MM............INCH .........MM............INCH.............
Octura.......M445........45.0..........1.77....... ...62.9..........2.478........1.4
Prather......S225........46.7..........1.84....... ....71.1.........2.8............1.5

Anyways the prather 225 is slightly larger but my boat sounded like it was getting up to top RPM's when running it. So now my question is do you think it was the fuel making it go 37MPH? more than the prop? Was the engine turning more RPM's than normal with the 65% fuel? Or do you think that just the prop did it all? Might try that 225 prop with that 65%

impulse

Hey guys I'm in the market for a nitro boat. I was looking at the shockwave for a long time debating and then pro boat released the TC. My main question being the handling of the boat. By it being a catameran instead of Deep V, how much handling difference is there. I am looking to run in not horrible choppy water and from behind a moving 1:1 boat. I.E. jumping the wake. Would the shockwave or TC be best suited. Thanks

JPriami

My Feedback: (21)

Well I ordered the areomarine flex cable today & another S225 prop to replace the one I lost. Hopefully I’ll have better luck with this cable. I couldn’t find anywhere I could just get a gallon of the Wildcat promix 65%. I looked all around middle Tennessee from what hobby shops I knew of. And looked online. I could get a case of 4 gallons ordered from wildcat. But I don’t have that extra dough to spend atm for a whole case. Bummer

impulse: IMHO the TC31 out handles the SW36. The boat is very stable. I have jumped wakes from passing fisherman’s boats with it no problem. And the cornering is awesome.

impulse

Thank you nitroSS. Is there a page in the thread that lists all the things I need to do before this things touches water? Water sealing,props, etc. Thanks again.

JPriami

My Feedback: (21)

impulse:

As far as my dealings with the boat I can say. Check all the connections & bolts on it. Check for things that are loose etc. Obvious things. Pull out the flex cable & grease it up real nice. Make sure to leave the gap between the props drive dog & the strut. About 1/4 of an inch. Check the carbs needle settings. Mine were way off from the factory settings stated in the manual. You might have to lean out the LSN more than normal to get it to run. So keep that in mind too. If it won’t start up & keeps flooding. Lean out the LSN a bit till you get it going. I think the Prather 220 prop is a good all around prop. It’s faster than the stock one. I used the 220 on my break in for the engine. The 225 is a good prop too. Some other people here have tried other props & some have had luck with them getting speeds. You just have to read & make your own call on what you'd want to try. Maybe even for safety put some extra flotation inside the hull & make sure you put some attached to the canopy. Because it will sink if it falls off. I used the thin foam sheets that came inside the proboat Tc31's box to put under my canopy. Just CA glued it on & your set. For the hull I used black pipe insulation. The foam stuff. It’s easy to cut and presses right into place if you cut it just right. I put some of that on either side of the fuel tank. That should get you all setup & going for first things to check out & do. Then as you run it & get familiar you might have some ideas you'd like to share here for others like me. It’s a nice boat you should have lots of fun with it as many of us here have.

As far as a page on here for a check list I guess your looking at it lol. This thread on RCU is the most informative one there is about the TC31. Just read through the pages and you can familiarize yourself with the boat before you get it.

impulse

Thanks for all the help NitroSS. Just time to place a order when I go into work today.

toyotatruckin

Well I found a fuel to run without having to order it, Trinity monster 30%nitro 18% oil, best ratio I could find around here and the LHS I bought the boat from didnt seam to want to order me anything...Also this is the glow plug they sold me McCoy Mc-9, will it be ok?

brownvhf

Well I got a nice fast 9 min run today before the engine stopped like it was out of fuel again. Got it back into shore and it fired right back up with 1/8 in fuel still in tank. Wrapped the fuel line next to the cooling fins on the engine and so far nothing has helped. Waiting to find out from wave walker what tuned pipe he has gone to as would like one myself.
Called Horizon today and they are sending me a new header pipe and then called off shore electric and ordered the m445 prop. Dodamissc might want the fastet boat but he has to be able to pass my boat first. 40mph on the way. Jerry

JPriami

My Feedback: (21)

My LHS only had those last time I was there too. I got a couple of them & they have worked fine.


Oh yeah I just finished drilling & tapping the new headers manifold bolt holes. Looks good almost finished now & mounted. I used standard 6-32 size bolts & tap. I happened to have a allen bolt set that was just right for this application. I also had to open up the engines bolt holes just a bit so they would fit. I havent tapped it for the fuel pressure line though. I might make the hole for that in the pipe itself like most applications are setup. Unless someone can say its better for it to be in the header itself? Or does it really matter where the exhaust pressure tap is?

FE_Chris

My Feedback: (2)

LOL....Correction, I have already passed you

Looks like I am gonna have to step my game up some. You guys will crap one day when my TC31 is doing mach1 [8D]

JPriami

My Feedback: (21)

Took some measurements of the stock carb. Maybe some of you can help me find a carb that will work that has a larger Inner Diameter (ID) at the intake & base. But has the same Outer diameter (OD) at the base so it still fits in the hole for the crankcase.
If we can find one we might be able to make our stock engines perform better & get more speed captain!

Dynamite .32 Stock Carb’s Base
Intake Diameter (Top): .290 thousandths 7.36 mm
Inner Diameter (Base): .315 thousandths 8.00 mm
Outer Diameter (Base): .550 thousandths 13.97 mm