TS2 POST IT HERE...
05-12-2007, 12:56 AM
#227
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
ORIGINAL: jrizo1
now were do i get i pipe for my TP2 and which one?
i want to thank you all for all your help puting my boat togeter.
thank you very much.
now were do i get i pipe for my TP2 and which one?
i want to thank you all for all your help puting my boat togeter.
thank you very much.
JD
05-12-2007, 07:48 PM
#228
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
finaly done took it oyt to a lake it went ok , how ever i had a hard time keeping it runing specialy after taking the glow starter off
it keeps turning off as soob as i put it on the water, ihad ti left the starter on it while i run it on the water it is that ok?
thanks
it keeps turning off as soob as i put it on the water, ihad ti left the starter on it while i run it on the water it is that ok?
thanks
05-12-2007, 08:07 PM
#230
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
ORIGINAL: jrizo1
any advice of how to brake in the engine ?
any advice of how to brake in the engine ?
just follow the manual instruction of os engine during break-in..usually set HSN needle rich then every tank ran lean it by 1/8-1/4 turn..
maybe u have a bad glow plug that cause engine stalling.
05-12-2007, 08:12 PM
#231
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
I am just reading the manual again and i had a cuestion in the first stage of brakning-=in the engine does the boat nrrds to be on the water or out ? for the first 3 tanks , to me it looks like it needs to be run trhee tnak out of the water?
05-12-2007, 08:32 PM
#232
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
No No, Set your High Speed needle at about 2.5 turns out and run it IN the water for about 3-5 tanks and make sure your nitro has 18% oil in it.
Scott
Scott
05-13-2007, 01:06 AM
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
Hi Guys who can help me, i tried a lot of setups since i bougt the TS2 in Dec 2005, The problem is made a decent cornering, i test with OSXm and Now Rossi, with 1,5oz add to 4oz of lead, on many angle neutral, litle neg, positve but dont find the sweat point, in the straigth is great but in the cornerig always have bouncing.. see the picture and video
Video: http://media.putfile.com/Mi-TS2-con-el-Rossi-H2007
Thanks
Video: http://media.putfile.com/Mi-TS2-con-el-Rossi-H2007
Thanks
05-13-2007, 02:21 PM
#236
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
the only time i was able to run it decently is when i lowered the the prop height from the centerline(bottom of sponson) with neutral angle and no weights at all, but still unpredictable hooking occurs during turning.
05-13-2007, 05:55 PM
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
Cristian,
I looks like you are not giving it enough throttle in the turns. My TS2 does the same thing if I try to turn it slowly.
Try this:
Throttle back just enough to let the nose stop bouncing.
Then back to 3/4 throttle (or more) once the boat starts to turn
Mine balances about 9 1/2 inches from the transom when full of fuel.
Hope this helps,
L
I looks like you are not giving it enough throttle in the turns. My TS2 does the same thing if I try to turn it slowly.
Try this:
Throttle back just enough to let the nose stop bouncing.
Then back to 3/4 throttle (or more) once the boat starts to turn
Mine balances about 9 1/2 inches from the transom when full of fuel.
Hope this helps,
L
05-13-2007, 10:34 PM
#238
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
Well you have set your boat up for max straight runs which is fine but as you remove power from that set up things change
and with rc racing you dont have trim and ballist like we have in the F1 Tunnels, when you throttle back for a turn like I see in the video you are going to get into that stage as the boat is set for high speed runs, try keeping the power on and taking a wider turn with
the set up as you have to have the power on to keep the nose up and more power to bring you out of the turn to prevent the nose from controling the turn. The suggestion of moving your weight closer to the C/G makes sense as when you are controlled with one set up this will delay the nose taking control when you power off but it will not eliminate the porpising, power will. just my 2 pence as I raced Shakespeare Tunnels in europe with OMC, and I have controlled a few RC tunnels and I appreciate it is very different and hard as every thing is happening so fast but your porpiseing (bouncing as you say) is all about set up, fast on the corners with trim in or fast on the straights with the way you set up, or learn to take wider turns with power.
Peter T
05-14-2007, 04:58 PM
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
hey guy's can i brake-in my new o.s max-21xm engine in my bad tub? this is my idea
Remove the propeler and run it only for the breke-in process.
thank you for any advice.
Remove the propeler and run it only for the breke-in process.
thank you for any advice.
05-15-2007, 07:33 AM
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
I was looking to buy a silver bullet pipe. I see that they have and original and a HP model. Mark with HTB, told me that the HP model had a better hole shot and better out of the corners for racing. If i get the HP model will my top end speed suffer? I was looking to get a little more hole shot and mid range....but i don't want my top end speed to suffer....any recommendations?
05-24-2007, 09:14 PM
#242
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
Guys, I need some serious help.
So I took the time to break in my .21 xm, and ran about 3-4 tanks out of the water, with a cooling system rigged up and the high speed needle in the neighborhood of 3turns out. Everything seemed to be going well, until I tried putting it in the water. Turns out when I was running the motor out of the water, I was running it backwards. Nowhere did it mention to reverse the polarity of the starter, I made the mistake of assuming it was correct. So I realized this and switched the polarity, and went to run the boat.
After some tuning and messing with the carb, I finally got the boat to move a little bit ( 28mph by radar). But it took forever to rev out, even when leaned to like 2 turns. I didnt want to go much further than that. The motor just doesnt feel right when I grab the flywheel and kick it over. When I grab the flywheel and rotate it slowly, I can move the flywheel about 1/8inch freely ( doesnt grab at all). When I continue to spin the flywheel I get what is best described as a horrible clicking noise, something is definetely not right here. I have had the motor apart, and I can see no visible damage to the piston/cylinder/connecting rod. However when I turn the motor over with the backplate off and watch the assembly, I can see a tiny hitch at bottom dead center. This is so frustrating, I have ran nitro cars my whole life and never had these kinds of problems!!
I think I'm just guna tear the thing down and put a new connecting rod in it. Maybe running it backwards stretched it out or something. Also, what kind of torque should I be putting on the water cooled head? When I snug the allen screws down good it feels like the piston is hitting at the top of the stroke. And when I back them off just a touch it feels smooth? Ahh this .21 XM is a strange beast. Someone set me straight please! Anything to keep me from sending this back to O.S. for them to hit me with labor charges!! Open for suggestions guys, fire away!!
So I took the time to break in my .21 xm, and ran about 3-4 tanks out of the water, with a cooling system rigged up and the high speed needle in the neighborhood of 3turns out. Everything seemed to be going well, until I tried putting it in the water. Turns out when I was running the motor out of the water, I was running it backwards. Nowhere did it mention to reverse the polarity of the starter, I made the mistake of assuming it was correct. So I realized this and switched the polarity, and went to run the boat.
After some tuning and messing with the carb, I finally got the boat to move a little bit ( 28mph by radar). But it took forever to rev out, even when leaned to like 2 turns. I didnt want to go much further than that. The motor just doesnt feel right when I grab the flywheel and kick it over. When I grab the flywheel and rotate it slowly, I can move the flywheel about 1/8inch freely ( doesnt grab at all). When I continue to spin the flywheel I get what is best described as a horrible clicking noise, something is definetely not right here. I have had the motor apart, and I can see no visible damage to the piston/cylinder/connecting rod. However when I turn the motor over with the backplate off and watch the assembly, I can see a tiny hitch at bottom dead center. This is so frustrating, I have ran nitro cars my whole life and never had these kinds of problems!!
I think I'm just guna tear the thing down and put a new connecting rod in it. Maybe running it backwards stretched it out or something. Also, what kind of torque should I be putting on the water cooled head? When I snug the allen screws down good it feels like the piston is hitting at the top of the stroke. And when I back them off just a touch it feels smooth? Ahh this .21 XM is a strange beast. Someone set me straight please! Anything to keep me from sending this back to O.S. for them to hit me with labor charges!! Open for suggestions guys, fire away!!
05-24-2007, 09:33 PM
#243
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
ricoswave,
try checkin' ur flexshaft, looks to me this is the problem,,,,reverse starting the motor causing breaking the flexshaft....take care of the motor that is really sweet n great motor....try also tuning LSN by turning 1/8 turn either lean or rich depends how the motor respond ...
try checkin' ur flexshaft, looks to me this is the problem,,,,reverse starting the motor causing breaking the flexshaft....take care of the motor that is really sweet n great motor....try also tuning LSN by turning 1/8 turn either lean or rich depends how the motor respond ...
05-24-2007, 09:50 PM
#244
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
ORIGINAL: jrizo1
hey guy's can i brake-in my new o.s max-21xm engine in my bad tub? this is my idea
Remove the propeler and run it only for the breke-in process.
thank you for any advice.
hey guy's can i brake-in my new o.s max-21xm engine in my bad tub? this is my idea
Remove the propeler and run it only for the breke-in process.
thank you for any advice.
didn't you asked that question already earlier or in a different thread?
anyway, it is strongly NOT recommended. doing so does not create a load on the motor, this meens no load on the flexi, no load on bearings, no load on the con rod and danger to over rev the engine, its like everything was floating.
Do it correctly the first time, this will save you problems and headache on the long run.
Dan.
05-24-2007, 10:08 PM
#245
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
ORIGINAL: Ricoswave
Guys, I need some serious help.
So I took the time to break in my .21 xm, and ran about 3-4 tanks out of the water, with a cooling system rigged up and the high speed needle in the neighborhood of 3turns out. Everything seemed to be going well, until I tried putting it in the water. Turns out when I was running the motor out of the water, I was running it backwards. Nowhere did it mention to reverse the polarity of the starter, I made the mistake of assuming it was correct. So I realized this and switched the polarity, and went to run the boat.
After some tuning and messing with the carb, I finally got the boat to move a little bit ( 28mph by radar). But it took forever to rev out, even when leaned to like 2 turns. I didnt want to go much further than that. The motor just doesnt feel right when I grab the flywheel and kick it over. When I grab the flywheel and rotate it slowly, I can move the flywheel about 1/8inch freely ( doesnt grab at all). When I continue to spin the flywheel I get what is best described as a horrible clicking noise, something is definetely not right here. I have had the motor apart, and I can see no visible damage to the piston/cylinder/connecting rod. However when I turn the motor over with the backplate off and watch the assembly, I can see a tiny hitch at bottom dead center. This is so frustrating, I have ran nitro cars my whole life and never had these kinds of problems!!
I think I'm just guna tear the thing down and put a new connecting rod in it. Maybe running it backwards stretched it out or something. Also, what kind of torque should I be putting on the water cooled head? When I snug the allen screws down good it feels like the piston is hitting at the top of the stroke. And when I back them off just a touch it feels smooth? Ahh this .21 XM is a strange beast. Someone set me straight please! Anything to keep me from sending this back to O.S. for them to hit me with labor charges!! Open for suggestions guys, fire away!!
Guys, I need some serious help.
So I took the time to break in my .21 xm, and ran about 3-4 tanks out of the water, with a cooling system rigged up and the high speed needle in the neighborhood of 3turns out. Everything seemed to be going well, until I tried putting it in the water. Turns out when I was running the motor out of the water, I was running it backwards. Nowhere did it mention to reverse the polarity of the starter, I made the mistake of assuming it was correct. So I realized this and switched the polarity, and went to run the boat.
After some tuning and messing with the carb, I finally got the boat to move a little bit ( 28mph by radar). But it took forever to rev out, even when leaned to like 2 turns. I didnt want to go much further than that. The motor just doesnt feel right when I grab the flywheel and kick it over. When I grab the flywheel and rotate it slowly, I can move the flywheel about 1/8inch freely ( doesnt grab at all). When I continue to spin the flywheel I get what is best described as a horrible clicking noise, something is definetely not right here. I have had the motor apart, and I can see no visible damage to the piston/cylinder/connecting rod. However when I turn the motor over with the backplate off and watch the assembly, I can see a tiny hitch at bottom dead center. This is so frustrating, I have ran nitro cars my whole life and never had these kinds of problems!!
I think I'm just guna tear the thing down and put a new connecting rod in it. Maybe running it backwards stretched it out or something. Also, what kind of torque should I be putting on the water cooled head? When I snug the allen screws down good it feels like the piston is hitting at the top of the stroke. And when I back them off just a touch it feels smooth? Ahh this .21 XM is a strange beast. Someone set me straight please! Anything to keep me from sending this back to O.S. for them to hit me with labor charges!! Open for suggestions guys, fire away!!
That method of breaking in an engine is not recommended, although some may swear by it ( they have been lucky so far ) the majority disagree.
a clicking sound at TDC is normal.
Like Wave is saying, check your flexi, since the flexi are left hand lay having them spinning right can cause damage.
to adjust Low Speed:
To set the low speed, the engine must be fully broken in and the high speed set for good engine operation. With the boat running, try to maintain the best idle you can and keep the boat running. You might have to blip the throttle to keep the engine running. Now pinch the fuel line that is supplying the carburetor. Does the engine take a long time to clear out, speed up and then die? If so, your low speed setting is too rich and you will need to turn the low speed needle clockwise 1/8 turn and try again.You know the low speed needle will be set right when you pinch the line and the engine speeds up for around 4 to 5 seconds and then quits. If the engine seems to be running well and you slow down and the engine quits, the low speed needle is too lean. Richen it up in 1/8 turn steps until the boat will slow down and get back on the pipe after you give the boat full throttle. Keep in mind it can take a few seconds for the boat to get back on the pipe.
Dan.
05-24-2007, 10:44 PM
#246
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
Dan,
Thanks for all the good information. I know the method I used is kind of controversial, but I think the biggest problem with it is over revving ( which I avoided to the best of my ability). I kept it cool and rich, and didnt get on it too hard. Piston and sleeve looks great. So I took it apart tonight and tightened everything back up. Looks like when I started it in reverse, it backed out one of the nuts and led to all that slop. This thing should scream when I put it all back together........
On another note while I have the boat stripped I think im guna clearcoat it again. Looks like my krylon fusion crystal clear coat isnt quite fuelproof, and to make it worse its cracking everywhere! Great paint job down the tubes. Im guna try and wetsand it with some real fine paper ( I laid on the clear kinda thick), and reapply some fuelproof Lustrecoat Clear. Any tips to prevent cracking my second time around? Cant wait to get this thing rippin, its been a long winter!
Thanks for all the good information. I know the method I used is kind of controversial, but I think the biggest problem with it is over revving ( which I avoided to the best of my ability). I kept it cool and rich, and didnt get on it too hard. Piston and sleeve looks great. So I took it apart tonight and tightened everything back up. Looks like when I started it in reverse, it backed out one of the nuts and led to all that slop. This thing should scream when I put it all back together........
On another note while I have the boat stripped I think im guna clearcoat it again. Looks like my krylon fusion crystal clear coat isnt quite fuelproof, and to make it worse its cracking everywhere! Great paint job down the tubes. Im guna try and wetsand it with some real fine paper ( I laid on the clear kinda thick), and reapply some fuelproof Lustrecoat Clear. Any tips to prevent cracking my second time around? Cant wait to get this thing rippin, its been a long winter!
06-06-2007, 11:35 AM
#247
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
Finally.....
I finally have the boat working properly. I was very happy with the performance once I had it tuned. Im running 20% Nitro and an Octura prop. After a few more tanks, I may take out the head shim and make the jump to 30%.
Thank you guys for all the advice, turns out I just had it running way too rich and I was scared of leaning it too much.
I finally have the boat working properly. I was very happy with the performance once I had it tuned. Im running 20% Nitro and an Octura prop. After a few more tanks, I may take out the head shim and make the jump to 30%.
Thank you guys for all the advice, turns out I just had it running way too rich and I was scared of leaning it too much.
06-06-2007, 12:20 PM
#248
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
ORIGINAL: Ricoswave
On another note while I have the boat stripped I think im guna clearcoat it again. Looks like my krylon fusion crystal clear coat isnt quite fuelproof, and to make it worse its cracking everywhere! Great paint job down the tubes. Im guna try and wetsand it with some real fine paper ( I laid on the clear kinda thick), and reapply some fuelproof Lustrecoat Clear...
On another note while I have the boat stripped I think im guna clearcoat it again. Looks like my krylon fusion crystal clear coat isnt quite fuelproof, and to make it worse its cracking everywhere! Great paint job down the tubes. Im guna try and wetsand it with some real fine paper ( I laid on the clear kinda thick), and reapply some fuelproof Lustrecoat Clear...
06-17-2007, 09:50 AM
#249
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
I have a probelm with my boat. I have had it out twice now and I have it running fairly well. It has a stock OS21. The problem is, the last time it was out, some water got into the hull. I took out the rubber plug and a few onces of water came out. The next day, I noticed the transom was split horizontally across the bottom bolt holes. It looks like the wood in the transom absorbed water and swelled, causing the fiberglass to split open about 1/8 inch. Is this normal? Why would they not waterproof the wood inside the hull? Inspection showed more cracks in the back the hull off to the side of the transom, and another crack where the front of the sponson meets the main hull. I just used CA to seal everything back up. Has anyone else had this happen, or did I get a bad one? I have had it for about a year before I set it up to run, so I guess any warranty is out of the question.
DG
DG
06-30-2007, 05:42 PM
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RE: TS2 POST IT HERE...
Can someone please tell me the make and model of plug wrenches that will fit on the OS 21 XM? I have read or was told that some wrenches do not fit because the outside of the wrench is too big.
Thanks
John
Thanks
John