I bought mine a long time ago, not sure of the brand. It looks exactly like [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ797&P=7]this one[/link].

i used the regular socket 8mm.

Heres my ts2 with cmb green head on it

Just got another ts2 for my PER OS full mod motor

will be changing the paint work soon

VIDEO TOP SPEED 2 YELLOW
OS MAX
60% GAS
PROP X 440

VS PROBOAT VORTEX
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bNWuhOvfGI

VS LAMBORGHINI KYOSHO AND VORTEX
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lHl0l3m1QQ

hey guys...i just snapped a shaft in my k&b lower unit with a cmb engine...im wondering if i should just go and get another shaft or if i should spend a little money and go with the lawless unit...i heard it puts out alot more power because of the angle and is easier on the shaft....can anyone give me some suggestions on buying another lower unit or is fixing the k&b a good choice...how much difference in power is there between the two as well....thanks

oh and by the way this is on a ts2

After 15 or 20 tanks of fuel don t forget to remove your head shims THE SPEED WILL INCREASE A LOT.





CHECK OUT MY VIDEO

YOU DIND T READ YOUR MANUAL . Your os engine if running really cool like mine you will need a OS A5 too burn all the gas coming in, i like also too run an 8 wich is medium hot woks great too.

when setting up the balance point of the TS2, do you do this with a full tank or empty tank? i'm assuming an empty tank as there is nothing mentioned about fuel in the manual. just want to make sure before i add too much or not enough weight.

Good question . I DID WITHOUT you can always setup you prop or the engine after to make sure.

i'll set it up with an empty tank, once i've run the engine in i'll see how it performs, if it's too nose up i'll add some more weight.

another question, i was looking at the OS engine last night getting it ready to mount on the boat. there's 2 nipples on the exhaust pipe (one for the pressure line to the tank, and another one), and another nipple on the shaft casing. in the diagram in the manual, there's a tube going from the exhaust to the side of the shaft casing. the nipple on the shaft casing looks to have been plugged with some plastic. I couldn't find anything in the instruction manual about pressurizing the shaft case. i assume i need to put the tube on, so i have, but if the nipple is blocked, should i unblockit? or is that a one way valve?

sorry for all the questions, i've never run an outboard before, i know plenty about standard marine & buggy engines though.

Cheers
Jason

I DON T SEE THE ONE YOU RE TALKING ABOUT BUT I GIVE YOU THIS LINK

http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/21xm-manual.pdf

I HOPE HE HELP YOU OUT. I THINK YOU SPEAK ABOUT THE OIL TRANSFER TUBE OR THE ONE UNDER THE EXHAUST THIS 2 TUBINGS ARE HERE TO LUBRICATE YOUR SHAFT (DON T LUBRICATE YOU SHAFT) WITH ANY GREASE. ALSO PUT SOME SOME SILICONE ON THE RADIO BOX THIS BOAT SOMETIME GO UNDER WATER SO MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THIS. BUT I DIDNT REMOVE ANYTHING FOR MY OS.BUT ALL NIPPLE ARE METAL NO PLASTIC SO MAYBE YOU HAVE A PROTECTION TRY TO REMOVE IT OR PUT A TUBING ON IT AND BLOW IN IF NO AIR GO IN TROUBLE.

yeah, it's the top oil transfer nipple. it is metal, but has what looks like a plastic ball in it. i'll take it off tonight & see if it's a ball valve. if it's just plastic stuck in there i'll remove it. i don't want to blow air in it incase i blow a piece of plastic that isn't supposed to be there into the shaft case.

i'll be using sticky back tape that i use to repair sails on my boat to seal up the radio box. it's strong & water proof. i use it on my model yachts to seal the hatches on them, it works very well & is very light.

i think i know what to do now.

thanks for the reply.

There is a pressure outlet on each side of the exhaust. Run a line from one of these to the tank to provide pressure. Run a line from the other one to the nipple on the shaft casing. This way, some of the oil from the exhaust will go to the shaft while the engine is running.

Also note that it's a good idea to remove the shaft at the end of the day. Dry it off and either leave it out, I store the shaft and prop assembly in the radio box, or oil it and reinstall it. Doing this will prevent rust and extend the life of the shaft.

cheers.

i pulled the nipple on the shaft housing out & it was white grease that was inthere, i blew it out & put it back on with the tubing. got the engine on & all trimmed up, just need to finish off the radio box & it's set. what oil should i use? i have a access to a tube of marine grease, but jmshark said not to grease it.

i have a tub of castor oil i use to mix fuels, will that be OK or should i use light machine oil?

I see a mention of a TS 3 on the Vegas thread. Is there a new version coming out or is this a typo?

It's not a typo. But, at this time a release date has not been set.

what pipe are you using , i need a header and pipe for my tt pro xm thanks

OK I GOT A TS2 WITH A OS STOCK MOTOR I CANT GET IT TO STOP PORPASING

j manikis,

Sorry to hear you are having trouble. I have a stock OS on mine too and it ran pretty well first time out. I set mine up as per the manual and it runs nice. I'm no expert by any means so all I can suggest is that you double check to make sure you have the outboard set up like the instructions describe. I have no weight in the nose as well. The only time I get any porpoising is if I'm going slow. Oh, and for now I have the stock prop on too, but that will be changing as soon as I have time to work on the 215 I have.

Good luck,
John

Hi what is lowest oil % I can run on the OS 21 can I go down to 12%??

Most of the fuel for boats is around 18% oil.

JD

is that 50:50 synthetic:castor? ie 9% synthetic, 9% castor? or is it biased more to one than the other?

I generally run 14% full synth, and 2% castor.

You can go down to 12% no problem (with good oil), but have to be careful with the needle. It doesnt matter if you run 30% oil, a lean run will do as much damage as with 8% oil.

~James

in my buggies (completely different engine) i run 9% synthetic & 3% castor. for marine i was wondering if i should keep the ratio of castor to synthetic roughly the same as buggies (ie 14% synthetic, 4% castor) or go 50:50 as in lots of shop bought fuels. i intend on using Klotz synthetic oil and castor in my OS outboard. any suggestion would be appreciated. from your post topfuel, i'm guessing a 15% 3% or 14% 4% synthetic, castor respectively would be a good starting point.