Canadian LoCo

Hello Craig if you want to take care of them weeds here is a solution it's called pond dye.
but you only put that dye in the spring before the weeds start to grow.

here's a link so you can read up on it.
http://www.pondalgaesolutions.com/ponddyes.html

check out the vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bx9ECn9f_fA

advanced builder

I did get my gaskets for the G2D engine. My EVee is ready and my .21 cat can be tested. Aeromarine danger zone is almost their. linkage and cut my cable. Sat or Sun is OK weather permitting. I want to see props new modified.18 engine. if he's got time to install. No time left on Thursday the sun goes down quick. Or next weekend is also good if the weather goes south. I need to find storage for my little trailer ,the top is in question in the winter. I shoveled that top a dozen times last winter. The hitch comes off for easy storage. All else can fit in my Santa Fe

Blackout

Thanks for the link. It sounds like I could treat my pond for around $100. Not too bad at all.

My only problem is that I have a stream that feeds the pond with fresh water up until around the end of June. I could treat earlier, but I would lose some of the dyed water out the spill-way.

I have grass carp in the pond, but I think the blue heron has gotton some of them....

The dye is surely worth a try next year.

Canadian LoCo

your Welcome Craig allways there to help out a fellow boater.[8D]

advanced builder

My new cat is down Bad grease job onto a new bearing.

Blackout

Holy cow!! It looks like you hit something??

Neil, have you seen this video? JAE 45 with a .45 Novarossi....

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpkZkaX8mYo&feature=player_detailpage[/youtube]

advanced builder

This a a bad grease job on a new bushing The old bushing was worn out due to WHAT? a bent shaft?? or the strut has a slight flaw. wore out quickly
Craig I better slow down that's crazy fast. I'm not that good a driver. yet I get in trouble with the .21 as is. I may never get that good I'm almost past prime.

Blackout

Wow, that sucks for sure...

Neil, You drove very well this weekend. You were real tight on the bouys with the easy-vee. You almost had Joe, but then he pulled ahead.... And you drove through that accident in your .21 rigger just fine.

One of my problems with driving is when I go wide on the back chute, sometimes I will start drifting wider and I won't know it until I'm on the floating rope. I think I did this twice on Saturday.

engineman351

Neil, If the bushing looks burned or is worn out (like oval), I'd say grease was the issue. But looking at the bent shaft, bent strut, and the gouged fiberglass my bet is that either the prop hit the stand before being thown in the water or you hit something pretty solid while running to cause all of that. Walt K. had a shaft look just like that last year on his cat and it happened taking the boat off the stand. Roger C.

Blackout

Guys, the weather forecast looks perfect this weekend. If you want to set something up at Stony Pond, go ahead, but I will not be able to run.

advanced builder

Roger the boat was on the stand and we were warming up the engine. Before the 2:30 mark. Everyone ran over because of the sound. Before we added a new bearing someone noticed that the prop was sloppy and had lots of movement. I added a new bearing with grease. The first run a plug went on me 1/2 way threw the race. The second heat she did that. The shaft is all blue in one spot. This may be a perfect time to add 1/4 " drive-line. A step down shaft for my props. I have many .187 dia props. I picked a few up from Sue. I forgot how a .67 cam be hard on parts. Everything wear's out faster. A good point for running a .12 rigger.

engineman351

Neil, It still looks like the prop hit something. I guess if the stub shaft got hot enough, it could soften and bend fron the rotational torque of ther prop. Considerering that Fred Rodas ran that set-up for years, I'd straighten out the strut, get a new .187 flex shaft and assemble with a fresh bushing (do you make them or buy them?) and relube with some good grease. I would also make sure you have at least .250 clearance from the back of the drive dog to the strut. Old school thinking was that you should use some sort of thrust bearing between the drive dog and strut so as the flex shaft shortened under load, the gap would close and the thrust would wind up on the back of the strut and not the engine bearings. Most guys today replace engine bearings frequently enough that they simply now run the gap. Another trick I have done is to assemble with a nylon spacer in the .250 gap and see how much it melts from the shortening and thrust on the strut. Then I replace the remaining nylon thickness with a couple of Octura hardened washers to have a more formidiable thrust washer. Maybe Bill K. can chime in on how he does his nitro set-ups. Good luck. That Cat can really boogies!! Roger C.

Billk44

First, I spotted the excessive play at the stub. After seeing what happened, it appears the strut itself was worn allowing the bushing to rotate and still wobble (not good.....). On all boats I put the full shaft load onto the crankshaft via the collet. On 67's and gassers, a minimum of .25" clearance between drive dog and strut. The longer the cable, the more they wind up under load and you want NO contact at the strut. This does not damage the engine bearings. Lack of oil does.......

Hope this helps. F.Y.I. on a 67 rigger the 3/16" drive will not survive.
Bill

Blackout

I would only run a thrust bearing if you are running a square drive setup.
It would be impossible to predict the exact amount of cable wind-up as it could vary.
The .25" gap that Roger suggests should be enough.

Check out this square drive strut setup from Japan. They are always thinking a little different... The drive dog also serves as a prop nut.

advanced builder

Every time I look at that pic ,seams strange.Craig
My M&D engine came in for a early B-day present. Now what to do with it. My gas rigger build has some work to do to get that ready. That will keep me happy for a few weeks. My RC truck buddy's have been looking for me. the season is just starting. Id rather build for a few weeks. I have 5 hulls to build. 3 -12 1 45 1 gas 4 have no home the .45 is kinda fast. Not to even talk about the gas hull. I may be getting in over my head. Speed kills ,what a way to go .

engineman351

Neil, I agree. That pic from Craig is interesting. I wonder what the power/hull combo is. It looks like it uses a 'ski' and the strut has a built in offset and bearing oiler. The backward drivedog or collar to hold the prop on is usually because the stub shaft is hardened. Maybe the strut has needle bearings. Roger

Billk44

Has got to be a pain in the butt to change props. Not sure I like the prop always trying to pull away from the drive dog. Not to mention the prop has to be cut.

gassertom

Hi everyone.
Is anyone going to Crig's pond this weekend?
Sounds like GOOD weather.

Tom & Cindy

advanced builder

gassertom what day is better for you and time?

gassertom

Will be at the pond around 10 or 10:30 Sat.
Made some motor mods to the N/R on the JAE-21 and want to test them out.
Tom & Cindy

advanced builder

OK Tom

Hydro Junkie

I won't run anything but a square drive in my scale boats. I also run a .250 cable with a step down ferule with a .187 stubshaft. This does several things:
1) flex shaft shrink is taken at the engine, making drag on the strut a nonfactor
2) if the flex shaft breaks, the ferule prevents the stub assembly from going to the bottom of the pond, meaning you only need to replace the flex shaft
3) thrust from the prop is applied to the strut through thrust bushings/bearings so the engine bearings are only subject to rotational wear and not axial thrust so the engine will last longer
4) it lets me choose from more props as I can use anything from a 36mm to a 70mm
5) I can pull the cable for greasing by loosening a set screw or two and not have to worry about messing with the strut or having any of the grease wiped off going through the strut when I reinstall the cable

advanced builder

Yes, but we over this side of town don't run 1/4 Sq We just don't see that setup. Your right the normal wear on the bearings is best with a 1/4 sq
2 wenches or setscrews you pick.

Hydro Junkie

In the northwest, it's a very common set up. It has, for the most part, been the standard replacement for the hard shaft that was the norm into the early 90s, be it a 187 or 250 cable

engineman351

I have run the ferrule set up on some of my boats and I do like the peace of mind on not losing a prop if the stub breaks away from the flex cable. (Oh, how I long for my Prop Shop 7016/2 at the bottom of Brick Pond!!) The only down side I see (at least on a surface drive cat or hydro) is that the shaft grease may get spun out onto the bottom of the hull. I think HydroJunkie has it right that the ball bearings in our engines (nitro and gas) are not really made to take axial thrust. The prop thrust has to go somewhere...and I think it might be better on the strut. There is a thread on Intl Waters (http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?...s&fromsearch=1) that shows a sq drive setup that uses a a round collet with a WHH Ferrule/stub shaft with the sq going into the stub. The 5/16 stuff tube still mounts into the nose piece of the strut, around the ferrule, so it looks just like a welded shaft setup. You have to remove the strut to replace the shaft, but you could use an oiler setup to keep it lubed without removing the strut. I may try this on my Gas Thunderboat just because there is just not any horsepower to give away...and it sort of makes sense to me to try not putting any kind of extra load on the engine components. (I'm sure someone with a real 'chassis' dyno could test the difference). Sorry I could not add a pic of the setup here as the one I saved fron IW is a BMP. Meanwhile on all my modded gassers and nitro stuff I will continue to take the easy path of a good homemade brass bushing and a .250 gap!! Roger