The tail rotor control set on my Trex keeps breaking and I don't know why. I've gone through two of them and am getting fed up, I've set the endpoints correctly and I don't know why it is continuously snapping.

Here are a few pics to show you my set up, my tail servo, etc.


PLEASE HELP, I really wanna get my heli in the air.

I can believe that the control horn at the rotor is breaking. The horn on the servo is very tough so something is seriously wrong. Maybe the gyro servo is reversed and correcting in the wrong direction. Maybe try a smaller servo like a HS-65 or equivant, something with less torque for testing only.

Nono the servo horn is not breaking, I cut that off because it was getting in the way. The part that is breaking is the tail rotor control set...the broken part is in one of the pictures.

Hi
Hmm there is really only 3 ways that part can break (ok 4 if you include a crash )
The tail drive shaft is bent or burred,or the bearings are stuffed ,The slider is hitting its end points hard,the screw/bolt holding the fork(broken part) in is to tight and binding
To workout which one it is assemble a new one without the control rod attached and check that it move across its full throws smoothly with no binding,make sure you also try testing rotating the tail around slowly just in case there is a bow in the shaft thats causing it to bind when its running.

If that all feels smooth then its you endpoint adjustment or you gyro setup might be over driving the servo.try to get the control rod mounted at the servo end as close to the center you can.
Cheers
Wozza
PS
This is the ver I use which is all metal http://www.revmaxhobbies.com.au/shop...uct-flyer.html its cheaper than the align one and just as good
the link is to an aussie shop so just google "GL 450 SE v2"

I have the exact same problem
T-Rex 450 SE V1
V2 has a better arm and Microheli has aluminum upgrade for it.

But6 if u want the V2 arm you need to upgrade your slide too.

One recommendation is to move the ball link in one hole on the servo horn. This will limit the amount of travel from your servo and get rid of the problem you're having. Good luck.

I can control the amount of travel by using my transmitter to limit the endpoints which I have done. Another guy on another website said that the control rod is at a odd angle and may be pulling the piece in an odd direction causing it to snap. To try and solve my problem i am making it so that the control arm coming from the servo goes directly to the piece in a straight line (as opposed to being diagonal). I am also buying the aluminum upgrade for it so hopefully those two improvements will solve my problem. Does anyone see any problems with my ideas? Thanks for the help by the way.

Does anyone know if this part will fit the V1?


Link for piece:
http://www.grandhobby.com/t022.html

DJ, check your endpoints out of heading hold, to set your tail up mechanically. After it is set, then set it up in heading hold. The more servo travel you get without binding, the more resolution you get out of the servo. In order to get your push rod more paralell (sp?) you might want to put your servo on the other side of the mounts which would get the servo horn closer to the tail boom. Good Luck, Let us all know what you finally figure out to solve the problem. Andy

So here is what I've done/ am going to do. I've angle the servo so that the pushrod is now longer traveling diagonally toward the ball link connected to the tail. I'm also going to get the aluminum upgrade so it hopefully won't break as easily. Does that sound ok?

yeah and as suggested (depending on your gyro type) check the endpoints in rate mode.The part you linked to above looks like the copterX tail part,there must be a dozen different tail setups floating around but 90% of em are interchangeable
cheers
Wozza

Are you sure it's not breaking in a crash? That's the only way I can see that happening. The servo over traveling won't break that arm. The control rod will flex and the gears would strip before the arm would break. Also, endpoints don't effect rudder servo travel. You didn't say what gyro you're using, but if it's a gy401 then servo travel is adjusted on the gyro. End points only effect piro rate. Increase the endpoints, the heli piros faster, decrease end points, the heli piros slower. I broke 2 arms of that design, both times due to crashes. I upgraded to this, HS1200 Metal Tail Pitch Assembly, and haven't broken one since. Alan

does anyone know if this will fit the V1?

http://www.grandhobby.com/t022.html

Which Gyro???

if it is the 401...this only changes the Piro speed... end point is adjusted at the gyro......

wow that stinks maybe the place you buy from is playing with your parts
i know plastic is strong but one cut on the rite spot and its weak as my sister
or the person triming flash off part

does anyone know if this will fit the V1?

http://www.grandhobby.com/t022.html

Hi
Email the vendor and ask them it be quicker than hoping someone else that comes along here has used the part
Wozza

when you boom mounted that servo did you trim down the pushrod?

i have the exact same 9650 servo, now its strong but if the tail is binding the pushrod usually bends way before it could break the pivot arm.

Seriously what you need to do is make sure the link at the servo horn is maybey even closer than the closest hole in a new hole (that is where I have mine). What this does is increase mechanical advantage AND servo revolution AT THE SAME TIME. You can also move the tail rotor hub out a tiny bit on the out put shaft to increase the slider travel to maximum. Also adjust the servo holder so the servo horn is centered (perpendicular to the boom) with the sticks at neutral while the slider is in the center of its travel. Then turn on the gyro and adjust end points, trim ect. Y ou wont believe the difference it makes even with SG90's hehe.