HK 500 CMT Build Thread - Beginner to Heli's
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Got the Quark installed tonight, and spun it up in the rec room. Wow! No rotation whatsover, and it seems to be smoother. My son and I will be flying both heli's tomorrow and if the Quark really makes the heli that much easier to fly then I'll be ordering another for his heli. The only downside is that my heli fell off the workbench and the flybar bent. I installed a new one (Align brand) and I had to widen the "flats" so the set screws could be tightened. Who would have thought? Anyway, got the batteries charged and just waiting for tomorrow! Thanks for all the words of encouragement.
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Hey there Daddysam
Let me know how you like the qurk gyro, I'm in the market for a new/better one for my 500 & I've been undecided between the Quark & the Align GP780. How was the set up on the Quark EZ ??
Jimmy R
Let me know how you like the qurk gyro, I'm in the market for a new/better one for my 500 & I've been undecided between the Quark & the Align GP780. How was the set up on the Quark EZ ??
Jimmy R
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Hi Jimmy,
The Quark was super easy to install and program. I watched the videos from Finless Bob on HF, and they helped but the booklet does a fine job. Basically power up with the programming switch depressed, it's preset to work with the tail servo I'm using (DS520) but you can select others by moving your rudder stick. Then power off and power back on, press the programming switch until the light blinks and the rudder servo moves, and then move your stick to the left so the gyro can memorize left. Then press the programming switch and it moves the pitch slider to full throw, use your rudder stick to bring the slider just off max throw, press the programming switch, do the same for the opposite throw. I've set my gain for 35% to test. I spun it up on the floor in the rec room and it was rock solid and very smooth. When I move the tail one way or the other it moves the servo very precisely. I'll be doing a test hover in a few minutes and will report back. I'm sure it will be fantastic..... I've attached a pic. The wires run conveniently down the indent in the tail holder, and it puts the programming switch facing the rear, where it is convenient.
Hope this helps.
Sam
The Quark was super easy to install and program. I watched the videos from Finless Bob on HF, and they helped but the booklet does a fine job. Basically power up with the programming switch depressed, it's preset to work with the tail servo I'm using (DS520) but you can select others by moving your rudder stick. Then power off and power back on, press the programming switch until the light blinks and the rudder servo moves, and then move your stick to the left so the gyro can memorize left. Then press the programming switch and it moves the pitch slider to full throw, use your rudder stick to bring the slider just off max throw, press the programming switch, do the same for the opposite throw. I've set my gain for 35% to test. I spun it up on the floor in the rec room and it was rock solid and very smooth. When I move the tail one way or the other it moves the servo very precisely. I'll be doing a test hover in a few minutes and will report back. I'm sure it will be fantastic..... I've attached a pic. The wires run conveniently down the indent in the tail holder, and it puts the programming switch facing the rear, where it is convenient.
Hope this helps.
Sam
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Just got back from flying, and my first "crash". Fortunately the only damage was a set of blades (spares of which I'd ordered some time ago for something like $8 a pair. Thankfully no other damage. The Quark makes the heli a whole different beast. My friend Jessie took it up for it's re-maiden and we corrected for some drift and now it can hover almost hands off - a far cry from before. Also I do add and take away pitch but not very much rudder - again much different from before. I will be ordering another from www.webberaerialimaging.com. .
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Got my heli back together and tried flying it - had some tracking issues. Back home I checked all the linkages and re-set the tail boom by loosening all the bolts and then re-tightening. Added some new tail blades and it spun up good in the back yard. Here's a pic of my son flying his 500 in the church lot. One bite of the tail blades and I had to replace one and the tail shaft. Good thing I carry those as spares now! All in all, a great day. Almost 70 in November, when snow is predicted in two days!
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Very cool ![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I guessing I've found my replacemen for my ageing JR500T. Getting tired of having to re-set it especially in the cold. My tail servo is also the Align DS520 so this should be a cinch !!
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I guessing I've found my replacemen for my ageing JR500T. Getting tired of having to re-set it especially in the cold. My tail servo is also the Align DS520 so this should be a cinch !!
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My blade tracking issue came back today and I found that one of the holes for the ball link attachment bolt on a flybar control rod had worn big and the ball link was loose. So another part ordered, should be back in the air later this week.
Sam
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daddysa,,, i just had my hkt500 strip the tail gear and i replaced it today with a align one and it striped again
so i get it right you used the align auto gear and the hk tail gear?
if so thats what ill do
wander if i put bothe align parts in if the mesh will be loose or snug anyone know
il pick up the align parts tomorrow if so i hate to be grounded again!!!!!
so i get it right you used the align auto gear and the hk tail gear?
if so thats what ill do
wander if i put bothe align parts in if the mesh will be loose or snug anyone know
il pick up the align parts tomorrow if so i hate to be grounded again!!!!!
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Boy does that sound familiar. I stripped out both the HK and the Align tail drive gears and wasn't sure I'd ever get if fixed. Yes, the Align autorotation gear is slightly larger than the HK, but the HK tail drive gear was slightly bigger than the Align tail drive gear. So I use the Align autorotation gear and the HK tail drive gear. I also did the following:
modded the frame by elongating "slightly" the five holes (four screws and one locator tab) per side so I could slide the tail boom mount ever so slightly forward to get the best mesh possible between the autorotation gear. After I set the boom in place with the screws I put a very small dab of 5 minute epoxy in the boom locator tab holes to remove any possible play. I also bought an extended vertical fin from "www.rchobbyhelicopter.com". When I built my heli I added a shim about 1/4" thick between the rear landing gear mount and the fuse, in an effort to lift the tail higher. With the extended vertical fin, the fin just touches the ground and the blades are a good 1/2" above the ground.
I (knock on wood) have not had to replace the tail drive gear since, and I have had plenty of bad set-downs since I'm learning to hover.
I don't know which of the mods did the trick, or if two of three would do it, or one by itself. I would try the combination of the Align autorotation gear, the HK tail drive gear, and the extended vertical fin. If those did not fix it, then I'd slot the boom mount holes.
Good luck, and if I can provide any more information let me know.
modded the frame by elongating "slightly" the five holes (four screws and one locator tab) per side so I could slide the tail boom mount ever so slightly forward to get the best mesh possible between the autorotation gear. After I set the boom in place with the screws I put a very small dab of 5 minute epoxy in the boom locator tab holes to remove any possible play. I also bought an extended vertical fin from "www.rchobbyhelicopter.com". When I built my heli I added a shim about 1/4" thick between the rear landing gear mount and the fuse, in an effort to lift the tail higher. With the extended vertical fin, the fin just touches the ground and the blades are a good 1/2" above the ground.
I (knock on wood) have not had to replace the tail drive gear since, and I have had plenty of bad set-downs since I'm learning to hover.
I don't know which of the mods did the trick, or if two of three would do it, or one by itself. I would try the combination of the Align autorotation gear, the HK tail drive gear, and the extended vertical fin. If those did not fix it, then I'd slot the boom mount holes.
Good luck, and if I can provide any more information let me know.
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thanks i orderd the align gears from advantage hobby im gona run buy and pick them up at 3pm today
they walk across the yard and pick up orders from horizon wh makes it nice to do this order before 1030am and pick up at 3
im gona check the mesh and adjust hope i dont have to
thanks for the help ill let you know how it works, i hate not flyn
they walk across the yard and pick up orders from horizon wh makes it nice to do this order before 1030am and pick up at 3
im gona check the mesh and adjust hope i dont have to
thanks for the help ill let you know how it works, i hate not flyn
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I had the same tail gear stripping problem happen to me. Twice. I have ordered replacements parts, and will also move the boom block closer as was suggested. I find that my belt is way too tight, and I might have to shave a bit off the boom to get it closer. I will first try an Align boom to see if it makes a difference.
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In an effort to fix the too-tight belt issue, I also ordered some Align tail booms - they are the same length, and some Align belts - same length. I ended up using my bench sander to grind about 1/8 inch off the back of the boom. Fixed the tight belt issue - of course after a few flights the belt stretched and I actually had to pull the boom out of the boom mount a tiny bit.
Sam
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I hope this thread is a guide to all those that think saving money by buying a cheaper non ALIGN model helicopter will NOT end up with no end of trouble. I have a Trex 450 Pro that I have "lawn darted" so many times and just rebuilt. It still flies as good today despite the bashing and I also have a Trex 500 which I have pulled out of trees and dug out of soft turf and rebuilt time after time and yet it flies like a new bird. I have always used genuine ALIGN parts and they fit first time every time.
I am not saying there is anything wrong with buying cheaper copies but expect to have to remodel and reshape the parts. Think of you helicopter as a BALI Rolex if you choose to take that path.
My 2 cents worth.
Happy flying guys!
I am not saying there is anything wrong with buying cheaper copies but expect to have to remodel and reshape the parts. Think of you helicopter as a BALI Rolex if you choose to take that path.
My 2 cents worth.
Happy flying guys!
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Yea
I agree, just my 2 cents & preferance, but this is why I stick with Align & other main stream, well established companies. I just don't want the headaches
I agree, just my 2 cents & preferance, but this is why I stick with Align & other main stream, well established companies. I just don't want the headaches
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Just to be clear as well, I do have an Align Trex 450 sport super combo which I fly and have crashed a few times. I have rebuilt. I do find it stronger, more responsive etc. But I couldn't fly it today if I hadn't learned on other 450 clones. Note that of the 5 x 450 that I have bought and built, the Trex is the only kit that arrived with an incorrect part, one of the canopy holder was for a different model. Nobody is perfect. I will not put a clone part in my Trex 450 except blades perhaps.
The HK500GT I'm building is really an experience in larger scale. Maybe my next will be an Align Trex 600, but that will be another thread.
The HK500GT I'm building is really an experience in larger scale. Maybe my next will be an Align Trex 600, but that will be another thread.
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I would say that from what I have read on this and other forums, people do have problems with Align kits as well, but I probably would not have ventured into the world of CCPM helis if I had had to pony up what it would take to get an Align bird into the air (plus I am building/maintaining TWO of these things). Many of those Align problems, like some of these problems, are most likely owner-induced. Somewhere down the road I will probably get an Align kit, but for now I think that these are great helis for venturing into the world of larger electric helis. When I do, I'll already have a pretty good supply of Align spare parts, a good gyro, and a good tail servo. Plus I'll have learned enough so that I hope to not be needing the spares!
I do wish that there had been a source of information indicating which parts to replace and what options to go for. I think that if I'd started out replacing the autorotation gear with an Align gear, had put in the longer vertical tail fin, and had bought the 1600 kv motor first, a lot of issues would not have come up, although I could be wrong. I do know that if I had $600 into a heli I'd be lot more nervous about dinging it.
My two cents.
I do wish that there had been a source of information indicating which parts to replace and what options to go for. I think that if I'd started out replacing the autorotation gear with an Align gear, had put in the longer vertical tail fin, and had bought the 1600 kv motor first, a lot of issues would not have come up, although I could be wrong. I do know that if I had $600 into a heli I'd be lot more nervous about dinging it.
My two cents.
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ORIGINAL: OrganDonor
I hope this thread is a guide to all those that think saving money by buying a cheaper non ALIGN model helicopter will NOT end up with no end of trouble. I have a Trex 450 Pro that I have "lawn darted" so many times and just rebuilt. It still flies as good today despite the bashing and I also have a Trex 500 which I have pulled out of trees and dug out of soft turf and rebuilt time after time and yet it flies like a new bird. I have always used genuine ALIGN parts and they fit first time every time.
I am not saying there is anything wrong with buying cheaper copies but expect to have to remodel and reshape the parts. Think of you helicopter as a BALI Rolex if you choose to take that path.
My 2 cents worth.
Happy flying guys!
I hope this thread is a guide to all those that think saving money by buying a cheaper non ALIGN model helicopter will NOT end up with no end of trouble. I have a Trex 450 Pro that I have "lawn darted" so many times and just rebuilt. It still flies as good today despite the bashing and I also have a Trex 500 which I have pulled out of trees and dug out of soft turf and rebuilt time after time and yet it flies like a new bird. I have always used genuine ALIGN parts and they fit first time every time.
I am not saying there is anything wrong with buying cheaper copies but expect to have to remodel and reshape the parts. Think of you helicopter as a BALI Rolex if you choose to take that path.
My 2 cents worth.
Happy flying guys!
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ok i drilled the holes to move tail in and its fixed
i put both align parts in but im gona order the hk tail drive gear to put back in im gona get a few this time.
i did get a kontronics 80 esc and talk about a slow startup but its nice only payd 50 for it just need to figure out how to set to 85% on gov
the piro is real slow is that do to head speed to slow?????
ive got a 1600kv motor and a 13t pinion but dont know if the headspeed is fast enough. the tail wont spin fast enough and i dont want to crash.
i crashed my hk450 after doing loops rolls and hovering inverted had a brain fart. anyway the 450 tail would turn real fast bothways i dont under stand why the 500 is so slow
Any help would be great................
thanks
i put both align parts in but im gona order the hk tail drive gear to put back in im gona get a few this time.
i did get a kontronics 80 esc and talk about a slow startup but its nice only payd 50 for it just need to figure out how to set to 85% on gov
the piro is real slow is that do to head speed to slow?????
ive got a 1600kv motor and a 13t pinion but dont know if the headspeed is fast enough. the tail wont spin fast enough and i dont want to crash.
i crashed my hk450 after doing loops rolls and hovering inverted had a brain fart. anyway the 450 tail would turn real fast bothways i dont under stand why the 500 is so slow
Any help would be great................
thanks
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ok head speed didnt fix it, so now what ![Frown](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
and the tail rotor housing broke in too fixed that
just about had it whith this 500 POS , more trouble than its worth just about ready to just get 450s and thats it
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and the tail rotor housing broke in too fixed that
just about had it whith this 500 POS , more trouble than its worth just about ready to just get 450s and thats it
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Is the tail belt too tight? I had to shave about 1/8 inch off the boom to get it loose enough. I think the 1600 kv motor on a 13t pinion would be fine. What battery and esc are you using?
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How did you fix the head speed problem?
I'm thinking the tail has to be fast enough if the gearing is the same and there isn't slipping going on somewhere. The other thing to look at is the tail rotor pitch mechanics and gyro.I trust your perception it isn't going fast enough.
I'm thinking the tail has to be fast enough if the gearing is the same and there isn't slipping going on somewhere. The other thing to look at is the tail rotor pitch mechanics and gyro.I trust your perception it isn't going fast enough.
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I have a kontronics 80 amp esc I just set the govner higher from 70% to 82%
There is a little slop in the tail mech, I have already ordered the metal pitch slider from xheli.
I think that is why it piros so slow due to to much slop from the torque.
It should be here by tue so we'll see
My 450 parts will be here to il have double work.
BLAAAAAA
I guess it's part of it
There is a little slop in the tail mech, I have already ordered the metal pitch slider from xheli.
I think that is why it piros so slow due to to much slop from the torque.
It should be here by tue so we'll see
My 450 parts will be here to il have double work.
BLAAAAAA
I guess it's part of it
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Here's a funny story that makes me laugh even though I have to order some more parts. I was practicing my hovering in the back yard this afternoon, and many of my "landings" have been hard, but I saw no issue with the gear. Until the last set down.... As the heli set down (lightly I might add) the right half of both front and rear skid holders fell off. There was my heli, spinning happily with all right support missing. I'm sure a hot stick could have done something but I just had to stand there, and as the blades slowed down the heli finally tipped over and the blades thwacked the ground hard enough that I need a new blade grip because the pitch ball got torqued and the threads are now loose. No one's fault but mine - the Jesus bolt sheered and it looked awful with the blades are caddywompus. Turned out that one of the plastic ball links tore open. I put it all back together and the only things I have to replace are the plastic link fitting (done), new Jesus bolt (done), and now the blade grip. Oh, the autorotation gear and the tail drive gear are a-ok.
I also had a set of Align landing gear in reserve so I put those on. They seem a lot sturdier and I like the set of the heli with the new gear.
I also had a set of Align landing gear in reserve so I put those on. They seem a lot sturdier and I like the set of the heli with the new gear.
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ok fixed all issues for now
the problem i have now is that with the gyro off the heli will spin fast what ever way i want but when i turn it on it pyros real slow
fast 360 1 sec gyro on 360 3 sec etherway
the dely and limit are on zero on the gyro i have changed things in the radio but nothing is working
what can i do i cant afford a realgood gyro right now
any help would be nice
the problem i have now is that with the gyro off the heli will spin fast what ever way i want but when i turn it on it pyros real slow
fast 360 1 sec gyro on 360 3 sec etherway
the dely and limit are on zero on the gyro i have changed things in the radio but nothing is working
what can i do i cant afford a realgood gyro right now
any help would be nice
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