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Tips for a used R50?

Old 10-24-2021, 03:33 PM
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Thanks, I have green and blue locktite.

Would green or blue be better for the balls of the links?
Old 10-24-2021, 03:47 PM
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I'm not familiar with "green" however Blue sounds good for the ball links. Personally if you use "blue" removable it will be good enough

Last edited by flydawg; 10-25-2021 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 10-24-2021, 03:53 PM
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Thanks,

I got questions for days, maybe tomorrow we can chat about this.

It's nice to finally meet an heli buddy.

Anyways, I hope the best for you.
Old 10-25-2021, 03:24 PM
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Thunder man, so here's the specs on the boom for the 50 vs the titan 50.
50, OD.22mm. x 640mm.
50 Titan, OD.22mm. x 660mm.

the titan boom is a little over 3/4" longer than the 50
also got my red/blue Loctite mixed up. I use only removeable blue. Very sorry for that.

Last edited by flydawg; 10-25-2021 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 10-25-2021, 05:54 PM
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My boom is at 644mm
Old 10-28-2021, 04:32 PM
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Quick question, what's a good way to clean screws? I need to get rid of some rust and left over Loctite
Old 10-28-2021, 06:08 PM
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no clue, I'd fly that 50 as is after I got my bearings right. seriously. I know u want everything perfect, I can tell by the picture how serious you are.. but, BRO. . . I'd have it in the air and go from there
.
Old 10-28-2021, 06:11 PM
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two weeks ago
Just FYI, they fly so much better than the 450's .
You're going to love it I promise. just crank it, get the motor tuned, hover it.. you'll see

Last edited by flydawg; 10-28-2021 at 06:16 PM.
Old 10-28-2021, 06:39 PM
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nitro helis are really cool, I always wanted to get into nitro helis many years ago, and I finally made the jump, I'm able to hover my SR no problem, and I've repaired it at one point after a crash.

I'll be using a dx8 radio too

Also does it matter if my tail boom is 644mm? I'm assuming as long as the rotors blades are 600mm, the tail boom could be longer with out a problem?

And no need to worry, I enjoy bien very meticulous with everything, it's not dragging me down in anyway

Last edited by Thunder man; 10-28-2021 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 10-28-2021, 06:49 PM
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put all your screws in a cup, spray with wd-40 let sit over night. Dry in the morning, rebolt everything... bind tx with rx. crank, hover
then sweat the small stuff.
just saying, you got a good deal, I can tell by the original photo. make sure to get your 401 set with heading hold on your TX.
once u get it hovering w/o tail wag, we'll talk about idle-up

Last edited by flydawg; 10-28-2021 at 06:52 PM.
Old 10-28-2021, 06:51 PM
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Thanks, I got some DW40 hanging around
Old 10-28-2021, 07:18 PM
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I'm curious, how did you start on the rc heli adventure?
Old 10-29-2021, 10:37 AM
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since a child, I loved aviation. Started with 20 size eaglet plane, got my VFR private rating SEL. THEN I bought my first blade coaxial helicopter. LOL it was over then. stepped the ladder to the blade 120 and think it was an MCX. THEN came the BSR (blade SR). First collective pitch. then on to blade 400. Found good deal on a raptor 30 V1. it came with a remote and field kit. I brought it home put a battery in it and fired it up. couldn't believe how steady the hover was. it was on an older FM TX. That had me hooked for life. I bought a brand new SE Titan kit with a redline 53. The concept of how a 90 swash and fly bar mechanics enthralled me. right down to the mechanics of how the helicopter took to the sky. the kit had to be assembled right down to every ball screw. Where you're at right now with you're project. . My wife was very jealous of the time the hobby consumed so I rested all of my helicopters in the garage for 9 years. My son came home from college and Said WOW dad I'd love to try that some day. So I gave him the SE Titan I build from the kit. He started hovering and I went through my 5 other raptors (motors locked, fuel line rotted, o rings in the needle valve dry rotted batteries needed replaced etc.) I'm back to flying a different helicopter every week to keep them going! Found out the raptor has been discontinued and parts are hard to find. Anyway. sorry for the book, I'm lost for words atm. I would like to say I've had them upside down in every direction, but now my intent is just hovering and forward flight. I'm 55 and my brain, eyes don't keep up as well as they did 9 years ago.
Your Turn!

Last edited by flydawg; 10-29-2021 at 10:41 AM.
Old 10-29-2021, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunder man
nitro helis are really cool, I always wanted to get into nitro helis many years ago, and I finally made the jump, I'm able to hover my SR no problem, and I've repaired it at one point after a crash.

I'll be using a dx8 radio too

Also does it matter if my tail boom is 644mm? I'm assuming as long as the rotors blades are 600mm, the tail boom could be longer with out a problem?

And no need to worry, I enjoy bien very meticulous with everything, it's not dragging me down in anyway
As long as your belt fits, I'd say you're golden! I didn't measure the boom, I got those stats. off of a website. Not sure where they take the measurements from. My only advice here is in the future if you've got to replace the boom, I'm almost certain the 50 booms and belts are easier to find and will work with your helicopter. 4 mm is only .157" and I'm sure you've enough adjustment for the 50 belt to work with your boom. ( I hope I'm making sense ) also the main shaft is a few inches closer to the front so that would have to fit into the math your calculating. IDK why they Titan boom is longer? interesting concept though, maybe it was designed to run a 620 main blade.

Last edited by flydawg; 10-29-2021 at 11:12 AM.
Old 10-29-2021, 12:11 PM
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Pretty cool, thanks for the story, and yes it's my turn now
Old 10-30-2021, 06:58 PM
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A question about batteries,

I bound my radio to my raptor, and all went well, servos functioned just fine, but then I learned about servos burning due to too high a voltage from the battery,

I was running the stock blade SR LiPo battery, and I just want to make sure that I'm not overloading the servos and any of the other electrics.

I believe the battery is 11.1V 1000mAh 3S 20C
Old 10-31-2021, 04:07 AM
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You're correct for the battery that come with the BSR. The battery that your align voltage regulator requires is a Lipo. 7.4V 2 Cell battery. I don't think 11.1 volts would be good for either the voltage regulator or your servos and am positive it will burn them up.(at least, positive I wouldn't try it). Also, check the 401 gyro. I'm pretty sure it requires 4.8 volts not 6V now that I'm thinking about it.
So the deal here is the Align voltage regulator with your bird enables to use a 7.4V lipo and regulates the voltage to 6 volts. Which is good for all of your servos including your specific rudder servo. in my applications that I use the align regulator I use even another regulator that regulates 6 volt to 4.8 volt that powers my gyro and rudder servo as my rudder servo is a futaba s9254 and requires 4.8 volts. Certainly time to use the brakes here and figure this piece out.
When I looked up the stats. on your rudder servo, it works on 4.8 volts as well as 6v.. I've studied your picture and cant tell if you've got another regulator in line to your gyro/rudder servo?
all of this has really got me wondering why someone would use a rudder servo that is designed to work on 6v for maximum performance and a gyro that requires 4.8v?



6v-4.8v step down

Last edited by flydawg; 10-31-2021 at 04:37 AM. Reason: Time to use the BRAKES
Old 10-31-2021, 05:17 AM
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Ok thanks,

and no, there is not another regulator

I hope I didn't damage anything, I only tested the electronics a few times

Last edited by Thunder man; 10-31-2021 at 06:04 AM.
Old 10-31-2021, 07:44 AM
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I hope not as well. as long as you didn't have you gyro plugged in I'm sure you're in good shape. if your gyro was plugged in, I'll say a prayer for it I'm sure it's imperative to use a 7.4 V LiPo to your Align and a a step-down Voltage regulator to your 401 gyro. This being said your rudder servo will be working on 4.8 volts and not give you the optimum results for holding the tail steady. I wouldn't worry about it until I tried it. (hover) OR maybe someone else reading the threads can intervein for more direction. The futuba rudder servo that preforms well on 4.8V is about $40 more than the Align servo you have and would be an option if the rudder doesn't hold well.
Old 10-31-2021, 07:57 AM
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What is this?
Old 10-31-2021, 08:28 AM
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That part is just a connector for the servo to the gyro if I'm not mistaking
Old 10-31-2021, 12:13 PM
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What would be a good battery and regulator?

Also, should I be concerned since my voltage regulator is bent forward, it was like this when I got the heli




Last edited by Thunder man; 10-31-2021 at 02:26 PM.
Old 10-31-2021, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunder man
What would be a good battery and regulator?
sorry to say at this point but think we or you need to search the 401 gyro with the align regulator. I'm thinking and have looked, I plug my gyro up to the rx and don't need the regulator until I get to my servo. Your servo however is good for 6v .. So if it were me I'd keep that setup. HOWEVER PLEASE use a 7.4v 2s LiPo for your Align regulator like the one I posted earlier in the thread. I posted it b/c it was one that had the right connector for the Align VR. and I'm using it no problem. However the original battery had way more juice but still 7.4 volts. Feel free to find a better battery but for God's sake use a 7.4v
Old 10-31-2021, 03:13 PM
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You mean to say I need a new gyro and align regulator, sorry If I misunderstood

And I certainly won't be using anything over 7.4V

In any case, thanks for the help
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Old 11-01-2021, 02:28 AM
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I hope you don't need new
Okay I checked my wiring. I've my 401 gyro plugged into the receiver. apparently no extra step down is needed from there. the only additional step down is running to my rudder servo. Your servo does NOT need this. just make sure you use the 7.4 2s battery to your Align. Sorry for freaking out. Just don't want you to burn any of your electronics..

Last edited by flydawg; 11-01-2021 at 02:56 PM. Reason: back in business

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