Tips for a used R50?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
I got a raptor 50 not too long ago, and I'm in the prosses of rebuilding it, I'm new to large scale helis and nitro as well.
If anybody can give me a few tips, and things to be concerned about, I would appreciate it.
Here are photos of the raptor 50 before I dissembled it.
One more thing, how can I know if I have a titan, my blades measured 640mm, but I don't know if the tail boom is a titan model.





If anybody can give me a few tips, and things to be concerned about, I would appreciate it.
Here are photos of the raptor 50 before I dissembled it.
One more thing, how can I know if I have a titan, my blades measured 640mm, but I don't know if the tail boom is a titan model.





#2
my guess it's a raptor 50. the titan had an aluminum head with SE on it. there would have been no need in the owner to change the head to the one on it currently. Even if it's the titan boom, that wouldn't mean it was a titan. Honestly when my titans crash I'm going to change them over to a 50 size boom b/c parts are easier to find IE belt.
One more thing a titan boom is what they call titanium in color. Also the canopy stand offs for a titan are both screwed in top and bottom. unless it was changed, the top canopy pictured has push on stand offs and the bottom is clipped on in the center. typical of a raptor 30/50. Also a titan kit, the rudder servo is moved to the back of the frame, front part of the boom not in the front servo tray.
Good luck with it! welcome to the party!!
One more thing a titan boom is what they call titanium in color. Also the canopy stand offs for a titan are both screwed in top and bottom. unless it was changed, the top canopy pictured has push on stand offs and the bottom is clipped on in the center. typical of a raptor 30/50. Also a titan kit, the rudder servo is moved to the back of the frame, front part of the boom not in the front servo tray.
Good luck with it! welcome to the party!!
Last edited by flydawg; 10-24-2021 at 07:18 AM.
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Thunder man (10-27-2021)
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#5
as far as bearings, the only bearings I've had to replace are the one way bearing. I'd be more interested in the main shaft being straight and the feathering shaft being straight. you can put some spindle oil in the bearings. However if they are sloppy then should be replaced. someone at one time has obviously had some care for that helicopter b/c of the head and the align onboard glow igniter/lipo voltage regulator
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Thunder man (10-27-2021)
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#8
SYPOM 1000mAh 35C 2S 7.4V LiPo Battery Pack with JST Plug Softcase for RC Model RC Hobby RC Car/RC Plane/DJI Quadcopter/RC Airplane/RC Helicopter Truck Boat(2 Packs)
found it at amazon.I had a hard time finding this. don't know if it will help ya'!
and just thought of another main difference between the titan and the 50. the main shaft has two bolts holding the head where the 50 only uses one
Last edited by flydawg; 10-24-2021 at 09:27 AM.
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Thunder man (10-27-2021)
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Thanks for the battery suggestion
I can send a photo of the gyro later in the day.
Hopefully I'm not taking too much of your time.
Since I'm new to this scale, what do you think of the servos? are they good models?
I can send a photo of the gyro later in the day.
Hopefully I'm not taking too much of your time.
Since I'm new to this scale, what do you think of the servos? are they good models?
#10
no way taking too much time. I'm so happy to see you getting a raptor back flying! I'm sure the servos will be just fine. I've no experience with the DS620 but did look it up. the speed should do just fine as long as you have it hooked to 6 volts. (Most futaba rudder servos require 4.8 volts and would need a voltage regulator on top of the align regulator. I'm telling you that incase you change the rudder servo to be aware of the volts required). your futaba s3050 are okay at 6 volts. and are great digital servos. The throttle servo doesn't need to be special and will 100% do the trick! Long story short, I think your servo set-up is good.
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Thunder man (10-27-2021)
#11
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Thanks! I started out on a coaxial to the blade sr, I always wanted a big nitro heli, so I went for a used raptor 50
I really enjoy the mechanical aspect of it all, and I've not even flown it.
I'm in no rush, and I want to take my time to get things right for this heli
I really enjoy the mechanical aspect of it all, and I've not even flown it.
I'm in no rush, and I want to take my time to get things right for this heli
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Thunder man (10-27-2021)
#17
omg, thank you so much. glad to have found ya. that's your exact helicopter except you've better servos for they cyclic. I'd love to help ya' rebuild yours to your specs. AND OMG Bru. if you could hover a blade SR, you can master fly your raptor. I started the same way 10 years ago, trashed the SR several times.
Last edited by flydawg; 10-24-2021 at 02:19 PM.
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#19
Not to mention, the first heli you build/rebuild and learn the mechanics will take time. Get it right, understand the mechanics and you've got it . The mechanics are so much easier to understand on a flybar helicopter. I'm not anti flybarless
but I don't like the programing involved in making the mechanics work.
The gyro works all aspects of a flybarless helicopter and to be honest leaves not much room for mechanical appreciation.
but I don't like the programing involved in making the mechanics work.
The gyro works all aspects of a flybarless helicopter and to be honest leaves not much room for mechanical appreciation.
Last edited by flydawg; 10-24-2021 at 02:24 PM.
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#21
OMG, I love it! you've even took your engine apart! you've definitely got a 50 frame. I was hoping you had a 401 gyro. state of the art for that year helicopter. You're in great shape
I run all my helicopters with a futuba TX/RX airplanes I do spektrum. I don't know what TX you'll be using but assume that you've got a spektrum RX be using a dx for your TX . the Programming is going to be critical for a good flying helicopter. as far as blade pitch curve and throttle pitch curve. Also the gyro will be programmed in the TX. I've never used a pitch gage, just calipers. well built machines for sure. Mechanically you're sound. the link rods to the blades I measure and get identical with in .001 in my opinion better than pitch gage.
If you need any parts that you can't find, let me know. I've 2 SE titans, a r 50 and 3 r 30's. plenty of parts but also have a good feeler out for where you can buy parts. Feeling blessed to be able to be a part of your reconstruction.

canopy for 30/50
also, just won this from e-bay a month ago so bling is still out there!
I run all my helicopters with a futuba TX/RX airplanes I do spektrum. I don't know what TX you'll be using but assume that you've got a spektrum RX be using a dx for your TX . the Programming is going to be critical for a good flying helicopter. as far as blade pitch curve and throttle pitch curve. Also the gyro will be programmed in the TX. I've never used a pitch gage, just calipers. well built machines for sure. Mechanically you're sound. the link rods to the blades I measure and get identical with in .001 in my opinion better than pitch gage.
If you need any parts that you can't find, let me know. I've 2 SE titans, a r 50 and 3 r 30's. plenty of parts but also have a good feeler out for where you can buy parts. Feeling blessed to be able to be a part of your reconstruction.

canopy for 30/50
also, just won this from e-bay a month ago so bling is still out there!
Last edited by flydawg; 10-24-2021 at 03:09 PM.
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#22
Thread Starter
Senior Member
I want my heli to fly like new and look new. I'm taking everything slowly, and working on one thing at a time, this project may last a few months.
I'm new to things like thread locker and other equipment, soon I'll build up my tools over time.
I had to put the engine in the oven to get the shaft out, and used a plastic peace to get the sleeve out.
I prefer a flybar over flybarless, yet they both have their advantages.
I'm new to things like thread locker and other equipment, soon I'll build up my tools over time.
I had to put the engine in the oven to get the shaft out, and used a plastic peace to get the sleeve out.
I prefer a flybar over flybarless, yet they both have their advantages.
Last edited by Thunder man; 10-24-2021 at 02:42 PM.
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flydawg (10-24-2021)
#24
Thread Starter
Senior Member
I'm using a dx8 radio,
I don't mind buying parts from you, some of the stuff I need is a pain to find, like a shim, engine nut and so on.
Also, Where is red locktite used?
I don't mind buying parts from you, some of the stuff I need is a pain to find, like a shim, engine nut and so on.
Also, Where is red locktite used?
Last edited by Thunder man; 10-24-2021 at 03:21 PM.
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flydawg (10-24-2021)
#25
anything you don't want to vibrate loose. specifically in places like the motor mount. use common sense. just know where u put red loctite, you may have to apply heat to disassemble in the future. Honestly I've only used it when bolting the motor on.
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Thunder man (10-27-2021)




I just run 2 tanks from my raptor 50 and wanted to show ya.
sorry for blah blah 


