I need to attach a Tower Kaos canopy, and I've seen the gammit of really poor to near perfect installations. I'd like mine to be a little closer to the latter and would appreciate some help.

Is it best to run a bead of RC56 around the base of the canopy/fuselage intersection with the canopy already in place? If I try to trace the outline of the canopy on the fuselage, put a bead of glue on my tracing, the plop the canopy on top, I don't see how you can do that without it looking sloppy.

Thanks for your comments,
7ECflyer

Running a bead around the edge should work fine, but you might want to apply a little med CA first in a few critical areas (like the front)

On monocoted aircraft, I have used monocote itself to attach the canopy. Use just enough heat to get the monocote to stick to the canopy. I usually use strips around 5/16" wide. Check out my gallery and look at the Skybolt. It uses the monocote method. I have been through crashed and the canopy is retained. Some simple slicing with a razor blade and you can remove the canopy.

JMO

This method works really well and it also prevents muck getting into the cockpit!

If you get some self adhesive trim that is the right width it is a lot easier.

I don't glue my canopies anymore, I use small screws.

Here's my Sportster's canopy. Believe it or not, the black is a thin strip of good quality electrical tape. It holds up remarkably well to fuel residue, and if it gets shabby looking, I replace it.
Dennis-

I use the Monokote Trim Sheets ... cut in strips about 3/8 inches wide. These sheets come in many colors, are self stick, and are a bit thicker/heavier than regular Monokote. Bob

I've moved on to 'plan E' for attaching canopies.

I now use Fourmost large canopy trim which has a groove and slides into the canopy base. I use RC-56/560 to glue this to the canopy base before gluing the canopy to the plane.

After the trim has dried, the canopy now has a nice 1/8" or more footprint instead of trying to glue a 1/16" piece of plastic using glue that wants to run. The trim also forms itself to the fuse, regardless of the many compound curves. Before, no matter how carefully I cut the canopy, there would be voids where it didn't contact the fuse, this eliminates that.

I relieve part of the covering to allow the rubber trim to mate to wood and then glue the canopy to the plane with RC-56/560.

I still hate putting on canopies, but this technique isn't so frustrating for me and it turns out OK.

I try to use screws when I can. What I do is glue in small thin square piece's of ply on the back side of the balsa if applicable, then drill holes in them. I then put thin ca in the drilled holes to harden the wood, then paint the wood to match the interior. After all of the above is done I then use either automotive trim tape or RC/car trim tape depending on color and application.

Blackie

Thanks for all the comments. I'm intrigued with the idea of using monokote or monokote trim sheets. I'm a fan of using screws myself when possible, but this is a plain bubble canopy mounted on a slab-top fuselage. I do plan to paint the canopy, so I could use some kind of backing (like the small ply pieces) inside the canopy to screw it in to.

7ECflyer

I think the risk of fatigue cracking of the canopy is greater when you attach with screws and simply attaching with screws doesn't seal off the canopy...you should still seal it with glue or tape or monocote to keep fuel from getting inside. That is why I like monocote....kills a bunch of birds with one stone.

I use trim to hold the canopy on cause I learned the trick from guys at my club who have been doing it for years.

I have a 150 size plane with the canopy held on with trim - looks neat - not permanent - keeps the muck out - I have had no problems at all with this and it stays on until you want it off

Remember to clean everything well before applying and make the overlaps facing the tail and the start/ finish in a place where you have not had to stretch the trim to get around a compound curve. I usually use two pieces - first around the rear of the canopy coming forward and the second around the front going toward the back.

If you are interested - PM me and I will post a picture !

I can't see a reason for using screws unless scale appearance is required!

I used contrasting trim but you could match your colour!

front

another

a better one

Rory,

What kind of trim is that? Looks like it goes around the curves well. Electricians tape?

No - as per my earlier posts it is Solartrim (the sticky version of Solarfilm which in turn is similar to Monokote) comes in self-adhesive sheets, that I cut into strips ! It stretches very well around the curves !

I'm working a kaos and I plan on tracing the canopy shape on a piece of 1/8" or 1/4" balsa sheet and cutting it out. The I'll paint the plate and glue the canopy to it. I'll be able to glue or screw the canopy to the top of the fuse and trim with monokote or trim sheet.

Once I used silicone caulking to glue a canopy on. Big mistake on my part. The final job looked awful and, fortunately, I was able to remove it and try again.

I like the RC56 glue method best. I have learned on my warbirds that if I set the canopy in the sun for several hours it becomes more pkiable and I get a much better fit and seal to the fuse. I use very little tape to hold it into place as the soft plastic seems to reform to the shape of the fuselage as it drys.

Good luck

THANKS TOPOGUN !

I used your method of 5/16" Monocote. Wow, it worked so much better than I imagined. With a trim iron and slowly pulling and stretching it looks like it was painted on. The guys at the field are definately gonna give it a try themselves.

Didn't use any glue, just held in place with masking tape as I worked the Mkote around. I'm not sure how well Ultracote would work doing this.

I've got a good number of flights and cleanings and so far so good.

Thats the way I did mine except I paint the canopy so you can't see inside!

I am going to try the monokote method as well.
One thing I am trying is:

Heat up my soldering iron and make holes with it for the screws. It melts the plastic in a hole, but the plastic moves over and thickens around the hole, thereby making the hole stronger. I've seen drilled holes crack from stress, and hopefully this will prevent it.

Anyone else do this yet?

I replaced the windshield on my old Kadet Sr. with RC56 and the fuel (20-20) softened it on the 1st flight. I have used it a few times before, but this is the first problem I've had with it.

Epoxy