I appreciate RC Airport Staff's candid review of the Hangar 9 Alpha Trainer. Hangar 9 Alpha Trainer - RTF Those I spoke with at the field knew little about the new package. The article played a major part in my decision to purchase the Alpha over several other RTF's (thanks for bringing to light the engine displacement…lol).

I have a few questions regarding the proper reinforcement of the tail with triangular balsa stock. I understand the concept and welcome any suggestions.

1) Since the model comes covered, I assume that I need to remove small pieces of the covering on the vert. and hor. stabilizers with a blade to ensure a good bond when gluing? Is this correct, or is there another way to do this?

2) Should I taper the leading and trailing edges of the balsa stock to ensure smooth air flow across the tail, or is the balsa stock small enough to cause only a minor change given the large control surfaces.

3) So that it doesn't look like I just slapped 4 pieces of balsa on the tail, do I seal and paint the balsa stock, or is there a better way to do this?

Thank you.

You will need to remove the covering where the tri stock will contact the stab and fin. Things don't stick well to covering films and even if they, the weak link would be the bond between the covering and the underlying balsa.

I don't think any streamlining is probably required as the square joint between the stab and fin already has tons of drag all by itself, but I tend to taper the front and rear anyway for a better looks.

I also cover the 45 degree edge of the tri stock with monokote for looks and for fuel proofing. I will wrap it around the edges just enough to avoid any bare wood showing on the exterior.

AirBear is right. If you don't remve the covering then you won't get a good bond to the wood. The triangle stock could rip off in flight. You don't have to taper the leading and trailing edges. It will make it look better though. You should cover all visible wood with monocote for looks and for fuelproofing.

Thanks Air Bear and blueangel. Now I can do it right the first time!

Your welcome. If you have any other problems or questions, don't be afraid to ask!

You didn't ask, but I'll tell ya anyway [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

To remove the covering - use a soldering iron! Don't use a knife, razor blade or any other 'knife' - instead warm up the soldering iron and with a metal straight edge - just drag the iron over the covering and it will melt a cut line - nice and neat to boot!!!

Remove the covering and glue in the triangle balsa, then cover the strips with some scrap...

hope this helps...

Jerry

Great idea. I have used heated "past their prime" exacto blades before but a soldering iron sounds a lot simpler.

The problem with cutting the cover off is that often you end up cutting into the blasa which can weaken the part you are trying to strnghten. I would think a soldering iron would also tend to reseal and restick the new edge of the monkote too which would save you having to do this with a sealing iron.