New Bright Nitro Skidoo MXZ Snowmobile
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Hi all
I thought I would start a new thread here for the new-year regarding converting and hoping up a New Bright electric Skidoo into a Nitro Sled.
My model has had one season on it but I stripped the spur gear at the end of last season so I am now working on replacing it with a metal gear
My goal is to create one of the coolest sounding and fastest sleds out there.
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Here are some pictures of the internals.
I am hoping to get some video available at some time but there has been very little snow here so far this season.
I am hoping to get some video available at some time but there has been very little snow here so far this season.
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The motor for this mod is rather small. It is a Paris Dish 0.12 but it runs great and gets the job done plus fits nicely under the hood cowl.
The mods so far include the nitro motor + mounts and exhaust, custom made drive train, new front oil filled shocks and RC grade radio equipment.
I spent quite a bit of time on the model. Maybe about 25-30 hours or so. Most of the time was spent creating the drive train and lining up all of the gears to mesh nicely and then cutting away extra plastic needed for engine cooling and to mount the exhaust pipe.
I also spent quite a bit of time trying to find a replacement spur gear to replace the stock nylon gear. Most/all parts on the Skidoo are in metric size and most gears found for cars are "standard" sizes.
The plastic is flimsy in some areas which takes stress so I re-enforced them with either copper sheet metal, steel or fiberglass.
I also made a few minor changes to the rear suspension but for the most part it is stock. I have plans to replace the cheap plastic mono shock with an oil filled shock and I have plans to re-enforce some more of the front suspension with fiber glass.
The mods so far include the nitro motor + mounts and exhaust, custom made drive train, new front oil filled shocks and RC grade radio equipment.
I spent quite a bit of time on the model. Maybe about 25-30 hours or so. Most of the time was spent creating the drive train and lining up all of the gears to mesh nicely and then cutting away extra plastic needed for engine cooling and to mount the exhaust pipe.
I also spent quite a bit of time trying to find a replacement spur gear to replace the stock nylon gear. Most/all parts on the Skidoo are in metric size and most gears found for cars are "standard" sizes.
The plastic is flimsy in some areas which takes stress so I re-enforced them with either copper sheet metal, steel or fiberglass.
I also made a few minor changes to the rear suspension but for the most part it is stock. I have plans to replace the cheap plastic mono shock with an oil filled shock and I have plans to re-enforce some more of the front suspension with fiber glass.
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If you would like a few pointers you could check out my newest thread I give all the details on how to do the mods size's ect.
Just want to help out
Just want to help out

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Ok, well my first attempt at replacing the nylon spur gear with the metal one failed. This attempt included purchasing a hexagon adapter and screwing it onto the new metal spur gear. Well the adapter failed after about 5 minutes from the torque of the nitro motor. The hexagon axle ripped through and stripped the adapter.
My backup plan is to piggy back the old Spur onto the new Spur gear and screw it into place.
My backup plan is to piggy back the old Spur onto the new Spur gear and screw it into place.
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Now, since there is no snow and none forecasted in the near future, I decided to pull out the rear suspension and start working on this. I am starting by building a throw-away test jig so I can examine the geometry of the suspension. The stock suspension is very rigid and has little to no give. The track also seems to be binding once in a while so I will use the jig to examine this as well.
Haven't gotten to far with this:
Haven't gotten to far with this:
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Ok
After removing the foe suspension bars and leaf spring the stock suspension can now begin to move. However, once this is done, you are committed to installing new shock absorbers because the head of the stock shocks will protrude out the top and drive directly into the top of the track system.
After removing the foe suspension bars and leaf spring the stock suspension can now begin to move. However, once this is done, you are committed to installing new shock absorbers because the head of the stock shocks will protrude out the top and drive directly into the top of the track system.
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Next you'll want to remove this nasty little useless swing arm thing which the rear shock is connected to. This thing serves no real good purpose and just seems to bind up the works. Remove it and connect the shock directly to the support axle.
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I also lubricated all axles with white grease and added washers around the wheels so that there is not so much slop between the wheels and the chasis. This improved the smothness of the track, I'm guessing about 40% and now there is not so much binding and slipping of the strack.
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Yup
It's as complete as its going to be for this year and running nicely. Maybe next season, I'll modify it some more.
I may be posting a better video as well.
Thanks for the support!
It's as complete as its going to be for this year and running nicely. Maybe next season, I'll modify it some more.
I may be posting a better video as well.
Thanks for the support!
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TechyJoe..
It's the same thing for my Polaris ..
I'll do better mods next year ..
Thank for your thread ..Good work ..[sm=thumbup.gif]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG5F4B8MhnU[/youtube]
It's the same thing for my Polaris ..
I'll do better mods next year ..

Thank for your thread ..Good work ..[sm=thumbup.gif]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG5F4B8MhnU[/youtube]
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texx
Nice sled and video. Looks like it works pretty well in heavier snow. Is it stock or did you hop it up?
Here is a new and improved video. This time a used a movie editor.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx02R9v_grY[/youtube]
Nice sled and video. Looks like it works pretty well in heavier snow. Is it stock or did you hop it up?
Here is a new and improved video. This time a used a movie editor.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx02R9v_grY[/youtube]
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..TechyJoe ..
Your movie editor, makes all the difference. .
Your snowmobile, rides well in the snow ..[sm=thumbup.gif]
Good work ..
Your movie editor, makes all the difference. .
Your snowmobile, rides well in the snow ..[sm=thumbup.gif]
Good work ..
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For my POLARIS .. Yes, the snow was quite heavy.
An ESC system would be welcome, and a bigger motor, but I'll wait a bit . .
I made major mods on my Polaris, with the means I possessed, and his behavior on the snow is fair .
My thread ..
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_92..._1/key_/tm.htm

An ESC system would be welcome, and a bigger motor, but I'll wait a bit . .
I made major mods on my Polaris, with the means I possessed, and his behavior on the snow is fair .
My thread ..

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_92..._1/key_/tm.htm
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mazdaprotege4
No sorry, I have no thread for that but maybe I can help you here. If you look at my post 2 in this thread there is a picture that may help.
The metal strips you see attached to the plastic housing are nothing more than an L-bracket that I bought from Home Depot and then hammered them flat. They have 2 pre-drilled holes.
The shocks I used where standard oil filled purchased at my local hobby shop for $17.00 a pair. You can see a picture of them on post 11.
The bottom end of the shock clipped right on just like the stock shock (I may of had to clip of a tad of blastic from the shock's clip ring).
For the top end, I had to cut away some plastic so it fit, but then I just used a bolt and nut and bolted the top to the metal strips. I may enfource this entire area with some fiberglass for next season. Seems to be a little weak in this area so the fiber glass should give it some more support.
I used fiber glass in some other areas such as where the motor mounts attach as well - seems to help!
No sorry, I have no thread for that but maybe I can help you here. If you look at my post 2 in this thread there is a picture that may help.
The metal strips you see attached to the plastic housing are nothing more than an L-bracket that I bought from Home Depot and then hammered them flat. They have 2 pre-drilled holes.
The shocks I used where standard oil filled purchased at my local hobby shop for $17.00 a pair. You can see a picture of them on post 11.
The bottom end of the shock clipped right on just like the stock shock (I may of had to clip of a tad of blastic from the shock's clip ring).
For the top end, I had to cut away some plastic so it fit, but then I just used a bolt and nut and bolted the top to the metal strips. I may enfource this entire area with some fiberglass for next season. Seems to be a little weak in this area so the fiber glass should give it some more support.
I used fiber glass in some other areas such as where the motor mounts attach as well - seems to help!