cathurga

...sounds good, but remember these will need to be chopped down to 13x10x3. ...

badazzgti03

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Hi everyone, Got some pics of my build. Got the lipos behind the firewalls. Started doing the wing intake and extractor vents. Still have a lot o do on this bird.

Dangaras

Nice progress. Just managed to squeeze the battery packs in.

Dangaras

Ah, I forgot! As another reference point, I fly my 16lb A-26 on 42-60-600kv, MA 13*8*3, 5S-4000-25C x2. Lots of power 8 mins stretched.

With the 400kv (is that right?) motors you might find yourself at full throttle most of the time..

david polley

Badazz

Progress looks real promising.....You have already done a lot or work on this....As you have already experianced now, this is the not anARF as we know it.....Iam suresome of these folks, including me could have built the model from a kit faster that it takes to prepare this pre-fabricated ARF as itcomes to us from the factory...However, it is worth all of the extra time and effortwhen all is said and done....

Keep up the good work...

David

cathurga

Badazz, nice to see some progress mate, keep it up! I like how those batteries fit in there, and is certainly food for thought if I consider doing another one.

David Polley, my kit bashing skills are a lot better than any attempt to build a kit. That coupled with the fact that I dont really have the space to build kits means I am resigned to this sort of activity. I am pretty sure that as I am taking it slow, finding the best combo's, retracts, balance and what not. When I do get to the right one, this will be a definate fun plane. I will probably paint it one day and get rid of the god-awful god-of-death decals, and some of the others that have no place on this bird

Dangaras, yeah, therein lies the problem I am hoping that the 13x10 solution will give it a little more speed, and once the spinners and the wheel covers (as well as the nose cone which was missing on maiden) are all in place, I should gain some nice top end, and bring the throttle down to about 3/4....I dont mind keeping throttle up, electric motors are most efficient at 80-100% of their ratings, and I want a scale flyer, with a little extra when needed.

Glad to see activity on this thread, great plane...

Dangaras

How much does this model weigh again? I checked my A-26 after I remember changing the props to MA 13*8*3. With the motors I stated above and 5 cell packs she is well powered and blazing fast.

P.S. Sometimes you have to make changes, I suggest the motors. The 42-60-600kv series are way lighter and will give you the power & RPM you need. You can also use the standard 13*8*3 props.

david polley

Cathurga,

Yes, when this model first came out you hadto put onall of the decalesyourself....I did not like the "God of Death" decals either so I went with these on my model.....I got thesefrom Tower Hobbies and they are made by"Major Decal" You just cut them out and put them on..

Thenew ARF versions of this kit have the decals on it already......I used masking tape on mine and pulled them off that way, but never did figure our a way to get the background of the decal that was left over off..I beleive some folks in this forum had a way of doing that, but you say you are going to paint it.....I believe you will have to sand off the old decals so the background will not show up behind the paint....

stegl

Working on my cowls today and making them as a "screwless mount" as far as the external view. Then will be drilling firewalls as I have one motor and made a ply ring to simulate spinner for centering. My Twin Otter cowls are bolted from inside into the firewall and that way gets rid of the outside screws. The Mossie will be done the same way. The less the better.

Have a quick question though . Probably has been posted but I want to go with 1/4 nylon bolts taped into the fuse plywood plates and was wondering if there is a solid block of balsa in wing center section; that you drill through and that gives some support to the bolt heads ?
Thanks

cathurga

Dangaras, mine is at 15lbs or 7kg's! thereabouts....heavy sod and it's not getting any lighter! I tried the ecalc on pretty much all easily available motors, and my finding was that go over 450kv, and she gets very hungry on the amps. I said earlier in the thread that I wanted to use 6s packs because I had the 5000mah ones around, and I used them on my corsair and warhawk so was reluctant to get others. If I had the choice, I would have gone with higher kv motors, and 5s ...and used a pair of them. So there were some self imposed limitations. I also wanted to stay away from pairs as they are just more time to charge.
I know it flies on the combo I have, and flies ok, so now it is just finding what's best out of, 13x10x3, 13x10x2 or 13x8x3, on these motors and packs....gives me decent enough speed, sufficient flight time and is comfortable to fly....then I stick with it. After that, any other changes will be cosmetic.

Dave P, thanks for the tips, will probably sand off what I done like, and then try matching paint to cover.

badazzgti03

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thanks guys!!
the lipos just barely fit in behind the firewalls...I still gotta do some adjusting to the batt bays to make the batteries a tad snug in the compartments. I'll continue to to post pics up. By the way whats the grey color on the mossey? is that a flat dove grey? Need to know to paint the wing intake vents.

stegl

Hi Badazz; Are you paint can sparying , brush or how was the plan to apply the paint ? i did a colour match ( mixed for airbrushing) for some yellow this summer as I coulnd't find paint to match and the colour came right on and can't tell the difference. I thought that it was going to be harder than it really was. I use two part epoxy and did the colour first and theh mixed in equal amount of hardner. If going with enamal paint get your two basic colours , in this case white and add very small amounts of black (like a tiny drop at a time) until you come close. I then put down some cardboard and then a drop or two of your mixed paint so that the gray is next to the original under the same light. worked great for me. I did go to the internet for some basic colour mixing charts as the yellow would be harder to mix than gray. Or you could try Klass Kote paints as they have military epoxy paints premixed.

badazzgti03

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cool...i was also considering monokote or whatever

stegl

That would be a challenge..... Regarding loading lipos.... if the gear are down I think I am going to be able to insert my
6S 4000 Turnigys in from the back ; just above the gear. Will need a tray made up though. If not I maye have to cut an
opening similiar to the above pictures but have a couple if ideas there . Like polley said ...it is far from an arf when you want to do all the refinements for electrics.

cathurga

Stegl, put the batteries in the back of the nacelle's and you are going to face some SEVERE balance issues trying to get the COG

badazzgti03

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Would you all think i would have any CG issues with the batteries behind the firewalls?

stegl

No, They should slip under the retracts just behind the firewalls ( when aircraft on its back). Can almost do it now except I have to trim one small top bulkhead were the fuel tank would have gone. May do in the nosecone yet but not commited at this point. Will be doing a pull-pull cable for the rudder to keep the rear weight down as in most builds the ratio runs 6 to 1. Add or subtract one oz in the rear and the front needs 6 oz to compensate and with this aircraft the ratio could even be more due to the long tail moment. I also plan on moving the servos from were they have them to as far foreward as I can and remove the servo mounting trays as this is behind the C of G moment. What really screws up the balance is the heavy fibreglass centre section.

david polley

Badazz,


I think that could work, however you will have to remove them every single time they needto berecharged due to the heat and possible volatile nature of LiPo batteries in general......My only concern here is that the CG is so important on this model especially that when you replace them back into the model each time to fly it, it will take very little shifting forward or back to move the CG "A LOT"

Start out with them pushed all the way forward and with everything installed including the spinners and props, radio equipment, and retracts up in the wing....Try to get the model to balance at the 110 mm point between the nacells and the fuselage....right side up....It is very tricky but with patience the model will balance on the CG machine and stay there on it's own...If it is too nose heavy (which I think it could be) start moving the batteries back a little at a time in each nacell...until youreach the proper CG spot....

I had to add one pound of weight to my model to get it to balance. I wasreally suprised because that included thetwo O.S.46FX enginesand mufflers and such which I found very interesting when the planssaid the CG should be between 115 and 120 mm... My first model was sotail heavy that it stalled with full down trim and wentin.............That was very heart breaking I can tell you that......It is amazing to me howmuch 5 mm or just less than 1/4 inchmakes in the performance of this model.....At 120 mm this will go in with glow engines on a dime...Just watch all of the videos on the internet of the crashes with glo engines.....Several of them appeared to be tail heavy....Others were a loss of an engine, ora flyingsurface becameungluedbecause the hinges were never secured properly with the CA glue they were using...( mostly elevator or rudder failures....)

If you are flyingelectric with counter rotation props you might be lucky enough to get it back before it snap rolls on you and it is done in.....

Keep in mind that if you have extend those flat spots (radiator intake vents) that you will have to take that extra distance into account..(so if your newleading edges are 5mmfrom the leading edgetip back to the original flat area on the wing that now your CG would be 115mm and not 110)

Once you get the model to balance, you will have to figure out a way to make sure they stay exactly in the same spot each time or you will be adjusting elevator trim every single time you take to the air which could get very annoying after a while....( I love it that I can start up my engines and when I take flight I will not have to touch the trimes from the last flight and such...)

I suspect you will have to make some kind of plywood or balsa wood compartment with a lot of holes in itto keep the batteries cool during your flight.... And, secure the exact same CG point everytime you place the charged up batteries in the model for your next flight....

Good Luck with that...

David

badazzgti03

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Cool thanks for the pointers David!! Very helpful! Ill be sure to take that in account with the wing intakes.

stegl

So then what you are saying David is that as fuel burns off that you do not have to retrim for balance changes ? Fueled twins will have double the trim changes due double the fuel burn versus a single motor : if I am not correct. For sure electric motored airraft would need the batteries positioned the same spot as when the C of G checked and set . That is standard practice used by most experienced electric flyers.

Nice thing with electrics is that as the electrons are used up no change of trim required...... Vs fueled aircraft or do you disagree ?
Yes , it is recommended to remove Lipo batteries from any equipment when charging ... Part of the problem is; a lot of users charge at high to max charge rates to shorten charge time and yes that can warm up batteries to a point. If one uses a quality charger and charges at a reasonable rate then lipos are pretty safe stuff.

david polley

Stegl,

Yes,this is true...I set the trim on theelevator of my Mosquitowhere the model willvery slightly start to descend if Icompletely letgo of the stick...I mean just a very slight amount where it looks as though the model is actually flying straight and level across the field butwill actually drop maybe35 feet from one end to the other......I feel really comfortable flying myall of my models when I have to
pull back just a little biton the stickduring aflight....

First it makes turns more stable for any model Ifly, and the Mosquito especially brings the most oohs and aahs when I am doing the highspeed passes 25 feet above the runway going 90 mph....Having thetrim set where I haveit allows the model to sink gradually until I pull it back for the altitude I wish to make the low "high speed pass"and Ijust holding her steady and it looks great from one end of the runway to the other......., especially when the engines are humming in sync.......

So for meIguesswhen the tanks of fuel do drop during the flight, Inever really notice any difference in the flight when the model is flying100 mph in thedown windor 50 mph going into the wind.....Ialways trim the model into the wind anyway so by the end of the flight, I do not notice any difference between a flight with full tanks or near empty as I am setting up my approach.....Ithink here especially for my Mosquito model, because by the time I am ready to land, Ihave alreadyengaged the flaps which tends to bring the nose back up for me as if the tanks were full......

All general theroy of course from me and nothing scientific about it....... Just trial and error over 35 years of flying model aircraft.........

Yes, once the trim is set for the day, I never have to touch itany furtherthe rest of the afternoon...............Of course, Ihave never landed the Mosquito with 2 full tanks of fuel before either...I suspect that could be a problem for me, depending on when a plug burned out or something worse...... God forbid....!

Sooo....., just to be safe, I change the plugs A LOT on all of my twin models, just to make that possibility assmall of a chance as I can for that happening. Iam not going towaituntil a plug burns out to change it on this model or any other twin...Both of my twin enging models already glide like bricks and I really do not want to try and land the model on one engine at the idle speed....Unless I was high enough and in the right place, then Icould point the nose down quickly and get as much speed as I could in a dive with the one engine already in the idle state
and bring it in hot and heavy to give myself a chance to get it down before it stops flying on me...

As hard as this is to believe, I have been flying twin engine 40 sized models since 1994 when I purchase a "kit bashed" Super Kaos that was put together with two of the 60 sized kits for only $75.00, from a very good friend of mine and model builder,,,,He ended up with what looked like a"stand off" scale lookingDe Havilland Hornet (see photographs).......I have only lostan engine one time when I blew a plug on the hornet back about 2001 or so... The engine hadactually over heated and destroyed the piston and sleeve of the O.S.45FSR abc engine I had on it....I did get it around on the one engine and did land thatwithout too much trouble...Thatmodel only weighed about8 pounds and itdid glide very well....

I have been veryfortunateinthat ithas nothappened to mesince......

I check and replace the rubberstoppers in thetanksevery 2 years or so, andcheck or replace the gas lines every flying season....including the one in the tank...A new set of plugs go into the engines for the first flight ofthe new flying season aswell as multiple times more during the summer and during our GCRCC "Flying Circus" . This is a model Air Show we put on every year at the Butler County Regional Airport near Fairfield Ohio....

I alsocarefully tune the engines before the first flight of any long day at the airfield to make very sure they are always a tadon the rich side and do not overheat.....On hotter days, I will have to back out the needles a click or two from where I started in the morning, but that is pretty normal for any engine......

Just some of what I have experianced....

David

stegl

I didn't reallize that there was a DH Hornet built on the similiar platform as the earlier Mosquito . Now that is were the CMP mossie gets the fuse ridge on the fuse top near the trailing edge of the wing. Real Mosquitos never had that... HAHA maybe we are all building and flying a Hornet proto type and not a Mosquito.... Always wondered ... V E R Y interesting !

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

Yes sir!!!
Got a little frusterated on making the vents last night...there are sooo many ways to do this..trying to choose the best and easiest way to make these functional and a way to keep the ECS cool. As for the fuse, that's a whole other story....They guy i picked this up from on a trade was local and really did a crappy job putting it together...Epoxy smears on where the horizontal stabilizer connect with the fuse..not clean at all....any good way to remove the smears??? need to re-cover the rudders. Whats the color of the cover for this model...flat dove grey? Been thinking and doing my own nose cone design....the one i have now is a little beat...would like to eliminate the clear cone and add some big ass guns in the front...twin Vulcan style mini guns like on the A10...I got a lot of small aluminum tubes lol...and a small electric motor...hmmmmm ideas????

stegl

[img][/img]Hi, If you are not in a real big hurry for the nosecone ; I have some mold making stuff ordered and on the way early next week as I too am changing the clear nosecone to a fibreglass one as I am not crazy about the plastic and plan on doing some nose cannons also. If this works out I can make more. I will post when available and how I make out. May also try and make a lighter tailwheel cover as well .

Anyone know how the factory decals can be effectively be removed without major repainting as the rudder number doesn't match the rear fuse number ?

The first picture is what I am hoping to aim for for a replacement nose and the second picture just looks like our models with a broken wingtip !

Hotrcair

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I will buy one also