Super Duellist 2/60 Build
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
One top wing skin done ..then all done I tried your way Don and worked out just great ...enough time to get everything lined up and in place. the W1's fit perfect with just a wee bit of a seam on the bottom ..top is butt tight.
I found that if I set the skin onto the main spar and aft spar then worked the pressure to the TE the skin went on very smooth .. I then rolled the skin forward on the main spar to the LE and used fast CA and was done.
I found that if I set the skin onto the main spar and aft spar then worked the pressure to the TE the skin went on very smooth .. I then rolled the skin forward on the main spar to the LE and used fast CA and was done.
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
yep you have me beat for planes Bill ...BUT ... I don't think you have Don beat ..man oh man wait till he post a pic or two of his stuff LOL
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Pete:
Do I understand from an earlier post you're making the wing one piece?
You may regret having put the top skin on before making the wheel wells.
Bill.
Do I understand from an earlier post you're making the wing one piece?
You may regret having put the top skin on before making the wheel wells.
Bill.
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Bill: yep one piece wing for sure .... and I have done a lot of the wheel well work already ( just does not show in the pics ) should have no problem later but thanks for quick check
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Pete:
That's just the dinette and the front room. And there are three more in the front room that don't show. And you should see my "Shop" area.
Just out of curiosity I gave those dinette pictures a good look. There are 16 planes in there, only one is completely out of view. Let's have a little contest. Not counting the wings leaning in the right corner, who can locate a glimpse of the other fifteen? You'll need to copy the picture and draw arrows to show you've found them. Prize? I'll think of something, maybe just an "Atta-Boy" though.
Bill.
That's just the dinette and the front room. And there are three more in the front room that don't show. And you should see my "Shop" area.
Just out of curiosity I gave those dinette pictures a good look. There are 16 planes in there, only one is completely out of view. Let's have a little contest. Not counting the wings leaning in the right corner, who can locate a glimpse of the other fifteen? You'll need to copy the picture and draw arrows to show you've found them. Prize? I'll think of something, maybe just an "Atta-Boy" though.
Bill.
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Well with the engine nacelles boxed in I was ready to place them on the wing with the leading edged shaped. For what ever reason BEFORE I sheeted in the top I marked the W4 and W5 Ribs on the leading edge ... good thing I did to because if you add 25% to the stock measurements to find center I would have been over by 1/8" there by the sides of the nacelles would not have been resting on top of the ply ribs under the sheeting.
Now you also may want to re cut the inside lazier formers for the nacelles ( top and bottom ) as you can see they are also off by at least 1/8" to short and would make for one heck of a bend in the sides.
As for the gap between the leading edge and the nacelle sides the outer side is fine and need just a little filler ..but for the inside I had to use 1/4" tri stock to fill ( yes the sides are a nice 90 deg to the leading edge ) ... to fill in the gap and to secure the sides I used masking tape to seal the gaps between the sheeting and nacelles then putting the wing on edge mixed up some 12 minute epoxy and ran a bead around the insides and let it flow into the gaps.
Now for the last ( I hope ) 1/8" story and it may not be the fault of the kit ... If you measure the firewall top to bottom they are 4" so you would think that the center line would be 2" ... NOT.... in the last pic you can see where the faint line is marked at 2" but when I use a lazier light across the leading edge to keep the thrust line in the middle of the leading edge I found that I would need to raise the line by ...you guessed it ... 1/8" which by the way will match the balsa join line on the nacelle sides ....
cheers
Now you also may want to re cut the inside lazier formers for the nacelles ( top and bottom ) as you can see they are also off by at least 1/8" to short and would make for one heck of a bend in the sides.
As for the gap between the leading edge and the nacelle sides the outer side is fine and need just a little filler ..but for the inside I had to use 1/4" tri stock to fill ( yes the sides are a nice 90 deg to the leading edge ) ... to fill in the gap and to secure the sides I used masking tape to seal the gaps between the sheeting and nacelles then putting the wing on edge mixed up some 12 minute epoxy and ran a bead around the insides and let it flow into the gaps.
Now for the last ( I hope ) 1/8" story and it may not be the fault of the kit ... If you measure the firewall top to bottom they are 4" so you would think that the center line would be 2" ... NOT.... in the last pic you can see where the faint line is marked at 2" but when I use a lazier light across the leading edge to keep the thrust line in the middle of the leading edge I found that I would need to raise the line by ...you guessed it ... 1/8" which by the way will match the balsa join line on the nacelle sides ....
cheers
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Just pics of what I was up to this weekend the nacelles are just ruff finish more sanding to come [&o]
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
All:
OK, how do you like this? I have been prodded, goaded, or possibly rudely shoved. Should be flying by early May, first planned "Public" appearance will be at Multis Over McDonough in late June.
Futaba radio gear (naturally), K&B 6560 engines (also naturally), all CF push rods and Du-Bro ball links on all controls.
Initially at least, no retracts. Might add them later.
And yes, for those of you with sharp eyes, that is the Northeast Aerodynamics logo on the vertical fin. They are the ones working to kit the plane, so I think we should give them all the boost we can.
Give John a shout at www.ne-aero.com and tell him you want one too.
Bill.
OK, how do you like this? I have been prodded, goaded, or possibly rudely shoved. Should be flying by early May, first planned "Public" appearance will be at Multis Over McDonough in late June.
Futaba radio gear (naturally), K&B 6560 engines (also naturally), all CF push rods and Du-Bro ball links on all controls.
Initially at least, no retracts. Might add them later.
And yes, for those of you with sharp eyes, that is the Northeast Aerodynamics logo on the vertical fin. They are the ones working to kit the plane, so I think we should give them all the boost we can.
Give John a shout at www.ne-aero.com and tell him you want one too.
Bill.
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
[X(][X(] Well now.... That's what I like to hear [sm=thumbup.gif] more of a blast with other's building and adding to the thread .. I to should have mine done around then as well.
I will (may have ) the wing done this weekend.
Have you laid the first spar yet Bill ?
Cheers
I will (may have ) the wing done this weekend.
Have you laid the first spar yet Bill ?
Cheers
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Don:
I will put servos in the rear if I need to for balance. For looks I would much rather have them forward. The key is proper hjollowing of all the large blocks in front. I hope I've done enough.
Bill.
I will put servos in the rear if I need to for balance. For looks I would much rather have them forward. The key is proper hjollowing of all the large blocks in front. I hope I've done enough.
Bill.
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Any who want to play with the color and decoration scheme, here's a line drawing for your fingerpainting pleasure.
If you come up with anuthing you like please post it here.
Bill.
If you come up with anuthing you like please post it here.
Bill.
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Looks to me the length of the wing is right on with the Tip blocks in place (42 1/4" to center ) ...but I did have to lengthen the left side by 1/8" by moving the ribs out ... I am just finishing up the wing tips and moving onto the ailerons ..i will take pics of that when done.
cheers
cheers
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Bill,
I've been waiting and watching for a Super Deullist flight report for two years now! Glad to hear you will be FLYING yours at MoM in June. Can't wait, I'll be sure to bring the video camera!
Walt
I've been waiting and watching for a Super Deullist flight report for two years now! Glad to hear you will be FLYING yours at MoM in June. Can't wait, I'll be sure to bring the video camera!
Walt
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Walt:
Maybe we can get EHFleming to kick Lonnie Ful;l;er in the backside. Lonnie finished his more than a year ago now, leat I heard it still has not been flown.
If lonnie brings his then we'd have the opportunity for some great pictures, and if you can work your video camera well... How about formation aerobatics? Wow.
Bill.
Maybe we can get EHFleming to kick Lonnie Ful;l;er in the backside. Lonnie finished his more than a year ago now, leat I heard it still has not been flown.
If lonnie brings his then we'd have the opportunity for some great pictures, and if you can work your video camera well... How about formation aerobatics? Wow.
Bill.
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Bill: After looking at your pic did you fiber glass the center top/bottom? ..also after looking at the built up stab that would save weight would it not be better to use a solid stab that would be stronger and the extra weight would help on the nose heavy part? I was also thinking of making it into a "T" tail [X(] would look rather neat don't you think?
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Pete:
No glass cloth. A coating of resin to harden the wood on the wing seating area.
If you, building the wing in one piece, kept the aluminum center spar you wont need any fiber glass reinforcement, but it's still not a bad idea to harden the surface. Leads to longer life, the wood is less likely to be crushed.
If you want to go to a solid stab you may, the built-up and sheeted stab is actually stronger. Your call. We debated on making the vertical fin built up as well as the rudder and elevator, but left them as Platt had done the smaller ones.
If you hollow all the blocks down to a 1/8" wall thickness there should be no balance problem.
Problem with a "Tee" tail shows up in the flare for landing, or any other high alpha maneuver. The wash from the wing upsets the air flow around the tail, the surfaces lose effectiveness. If you keep this in mind, and avoid high angle of attack at lower air speeds there should be no problem with it. Other than strength at the attachment. Pretty small gluing surface for such a large stab.
Bill.
No glass cloth. A coating of resin to harden the wood on the wing seating area.
If you, building the wing in one piece, kept the aluminum center spar you wont need any fiber glass reinforcement, but it's still not a bad idea to harden the surface. Leads to longer life, the wood is less likely to be crushed.
If you want to go to a solid stab you may, the built-up and sheeted stab is actually stronger. Your call. We debated on making the vertical fin built up as well as the rudder and elevator, but left them as Platt had done the smaller ones.
If you hollow all the blocks down to a 1/8" wall thickness there should be no balance problem.
Problem with a "Tee" tail shows up in the flare for landing, or any other high alpha maneuver. The wash from the wing upsets the air flow around the tail, the surfaces lose effectiveness. If you keep this in mind, and avoid high angle of attack at lower air speeds there should be no problem with it. Other than strength at the attachment. Pretty small gluing surface for such a large stab.
Bill.
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
Cool idea about the wing saddle area with resin to harden the wood ... Yes I did keep the aluminum as the wing spar and will go with that like you should be fine with out the center glass.
I have reshaped all the blocks keeping in mind the weight ..should be good to go there.
After pondering the balsa dust in my navel I will stick with the plan on the tail feathers ..the "T" tail was just a idea. I have reworked over the winter my Strikemaster with a T tail so will find out how that works .
Thanks for the info.
Cheers
Don: did you get the MIG covered over the weekend????
I have reshaped all the blocks keeping in mind the weight ..should be good to go there.
After pondering the balsa dust in my navel I will stick with the plan on the tail feathers ..the "T" tail was just a idea. I have reworked over the winter my Strikemaster with a T tail so will find out how that works .
Thanks for the info.
Cheers
Don: did you get the MIG covered over the weekend????
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RE: Super Duellist 2/60 Build
I got the sunburst on the bottom tails done, now just the vertical fins and it's done.
Since it took me 2 hours to get the horizontal stabs done, I got bored again.
The good news is we have a new NavAids guy and he want to learn to fly. So now that I have another person to fly with maybe I'll get motivated again. It got up to 24 degrees today with 23 inches of snow left on the ground so I can feel that spring is just around the corner. We'll see.
The Duellist is really looking good. I'm kind of glad Bill talked you out of the T-tail because I want to do that...LOL!!! But don't worry, that's years down the road. You'll have time to fly yours and then rebuild the tail long before I get started.
Don
Since it took me 2 hours to get the horizontal stabs done, I got bored again.
The good news is we have a new NavAids guy and he want to learn to fly. So now that I have another person to fly with maybe I'll get motivated again. It got up to 24 degrees today with 23 inches of snow left on the ground so I can feel that spring is just around the corner. We'll see.
The Duellist is really looking good. I'm kind of glad Bill talked you out of the T-tail because I want to do that...LOL!!! But don't worry, that's years down the road. You'll have time to fly yours and then rebuild the tail long before I get started.
Don