Rattlecat

Rollin,
The Walkera main gear is 132 t, the MX400 (ARK X-400) is 138. I did trim just a little off the frame at the rear of the gear to be sure.
The one with the better one-way is the best bet. Costs $10 more. Get ready for sticker shock.
Link :

http://www.helidirect.com/index.php?cPath=30_49

CH

HeliSmith

I really want to thank you guys for your help, Rollin Thunder and Orion.

I lifted off today! It is still windy here and I just meant to spin up but my wife came out and I just lifted off instead. Man this is a whole different experience then the DF4. Even when a gust came it drifted sideways nice and level... I flew it around for about 3 minutes and then decided that was enough in the wind. Talk about nice and stable! Wish there was a good model in RealFlight G3.5 that acted like the 36!

Oh and my wife clapped when I set it down. It's so graceful! I was almost shaking nervous when I landed but it just sat right down.

Rattlecat

Nervous huh, my right leg sometimes shakes so bad it is hilarious. I get mad stomp my foot and think, shaking my leg ain't gonna make the heli fly any better. At least when I first flew the 36. Now I hover inside biz as usual. It sure gets stable about chest high, like the DF4.

Ch

eyeflyhelis

My Feedback: (18)

hey guys first post on this forum.
i have a friend with one of these helis complete with radio and a few spare parts. he is looking to get $120 shipped anyone interested please email [email protected]

Rollin Thunder

helismith

Your welcome and congratulations! You earned your stripes on the #4. The 36 will seem easy to fly once you get used to it. You will continually tweak your helis setup. Over time and with experience your heli will be just the way you want it. I understand about you taking it up when your wife came out. I usually fly more aggressive and daring when I have an audience

spOon2410

Hey,
My tail is the plastic version, and it looks like it could use some WD40 to me... Would you recommend just spraying a little on the main shaft?
Ive heard WD40 can ruin plastic, is this true? Should I be using a different lubricant/oil?
Thanks for your replies, as always.

Rollin Thunder

WD40 is not a very good lubricant. It's more of a cleaner. Use a light machine oil like 3n1 oil. If there is something better someone will correct me.

andrew100

HI,

I just purchase a new Walkera #36, it comes with a WK-G010 gyro, when I was testing the travel on the tail servo it seems to travel one direction more than the other. The manual says the gyro has servo travel adjustments but I can't seem to work how to do this. Does anyone know?

Thanks in advance,

Andrew

Orion1024

spOon,

You shouldn't need to put any type of lubricant on the tail shaft. If the slider seems to be binding, it might be because the tail shaft is bent slightly. If you really want to put something on it, I would try graphite first. Wet lubricants are just going to attract contaminants...I would only use them on areas that aren't exposed and that absolutely need them.

Rollin Thunder

I stand corrected. [link=http://www.graphitestore.com/itemDetails.asp?item_id=1574&prd_id=34&cat_id=28&c urPage=1]graphite dust[/link]

spOon2410

Cool, does this look like the right stuff? http://www.rona.ca/webapp/wcs/stores...roductId=62343

I would assume all graphite lubricants would be similar?

Also, i think there is some grease on the shaft now, which attracted some gunk. (From the previous owner). Thats why I wanted to WD40 it.
Maybe I will still use the WD40, and then graphite it afterwards. Should I take it apart to graphite it, or could I just apply some on the shaft and move the linkage back and forth?

Thanks.

drobin

You should be able to get the graphite in a sporting goods shop.The stuff you are showing looks good also.

Rattlecat

Get silicone grease at the LHS and you can even put it on the belt. The belt LIKES silicone grease. The tail shaft really should be dry, fluid affects the fine movement the gyro commands. A #2 pencil is a good graphite source for the plastic balls and may be ok for aluminum, never tried. Works great on plastic.
I really don't think graphite will stick on the shaft. It may lodge in the brass bushing. I think cleaning and polishing the tail shaft would be best.
CH

Rattlecat

I just got some APEX 2100 15C lipos from Dymond ($40 ea) and they seem pretty good. Very light, around 155g. About the same as the TP2100. Lets see how they do. I decided mixing my sources and brands may be a good idea, since I have read about people having all lipos go bad at once. They were all the same battery, purchased at the same time and vendor. My poor Megapower 2100 15C has been abused by a charger that finishes at 4.24v/ cell. I only used it on that charger, but did charge an 1800 12C Dymond on it two times when in a rush. I am supposed to send it back to Horizon, but haven't gotten around to it. It is the Parkzone variable Lipo balance charger for the Stryker.
I went and charged my lipos up today and the wind started picking up so I just flew the DF4 since it was too windy for the DF36.

CH

HeliSmith

I barely tipped it and took about half the helicopter out... What do you guys think of this part list? Is this expensive? Will this metal head piece work? If the head piece would have bent versus failing I wouldn't be replacing most of the tail too.

1 Metal Upgrade Parts for Walkera 36#(New Version) $32.50 (Upgrade head)
1 Flybar $3.80
1 Tail Strut $4.70
1 Stabilizer $5.50
1 Tail Boom $5.50
1 Main Rotor Blade(290mm, Good for 35#,36#,37#,60#,68#) $7.90
1 Tail Servo Rod Shaft $5.50
1 Flybar Paddle $3.80
1 Tail Rotor Blade $4.00
1 Shipping: $17.50

Too late I already ordered this stuff. I hope that head piece works! I have read it's cast and not CNC but it looks nice.

HeliSmith

Is there a manual for dismantling the W36? If not how the heck do I get the boom off? I have a feeling by looking at it I have to split the frame.

PICTURES:

BEFORE




AFTER

Ironsmith

Ouch! Does anyone know the dynamics of a boom strike? I don't see how a blade can hit the boom unless it is parallel to the fly bar.

HeliSmith

I was trying to figure that one out too. I can explain what happened but I don't know what happened for sure...

I was hovering barely off the ground and it is still windy so I kept it low. I sat it down real slow and I seen it start to tip and the blade hit the ground, I heard a loud crack and everything was still. Upon inspection I notice that a blade holder broke and I theorize that the instant the red blade hit the pavement it broke the blade holder. I had my blades snug but not super tight so it jack knifed and pivoted around at nearly 200 miles per hour. You can see the imprint of the blade clearly in the side of the boom. The strike was so hard vibration ripped apart the tail servo!!!

Therefore I am going with the metal head. This time I will bend the shaft and shatter the blades and hopefully slow this thing down before catostrophic failure drives it into my chasis!!!

spOon2410

Yea the blades strike the boom just because they are loose on the blade holders, and can tilt up and down with the flybar as well. So when it swings around, and then is pitched in the right way, you get it hanging way down and there comes your boom strike.
If you just move the blade how I said, you can touch it to the boom. (At least I can!)
I may be wrong but Ive heard with some types of carbon blades you dont get boom strikes...maybe because they shape the blade in such a way that it cant rotate very far in the holders.

drobin

You have to split the frame to get the tail boom off.At least,I did.I don't know of a better way.I'm still flying my df4 outside until the weather gets better.I had a crash like yours last fall.But it was caused by walkera electronics.Got rid of them.

Orion1024

helismith,

You can take the boom out by removing the tail piece, then loosen the four screws at the end of the frame. That incident seems very strange...I've never had my 36 want to tip over. I wonder if your blades are too tight and when the headspeed went down low enough it was out of balance. Of course, it's also helpful to have some negative pitch even in 'Normal' flight mode so when you go to land the heli is actually being held down to the ground.

HamboCopter

As Drobin said you need to split the frame, but normally just loosen the last 4 bolts, 2 bottom and 2 top, in the frame and the boom should just slide out. Do not try to turn it as that will shear off the locating tab inside the frame. You shouldn't need to remove the gyro. I just replaced my boom today, after and blade strike, with a cut down Align boom. Also be careful when re-tightening these bolts, they are quite small and can easily snap.
As others have said once the blade tip hits the ground the blade rotates in the grip, I doubt if you could tighten the blade grips enough to prevent this, this rotation can line it up with the flybar and allowing it to hit the boom.
I have just fitted an Align fiberglass canopy to my 36. The canopy is very nice quality and looks great too.
has anyone tried fitting the Align 450 blade grips to their 36? I have stripped the thread on one of the 36 alloy ones.

Regards,
Mark

HeliSmith

Orion,

Cool I will dismantle the tail piece and see if I can disengage the belt that way. Orion is there a manual of any kind that shows how the pieces come off like the DF4 has?

HamboCopter,

I see you are running the metal head gear I just ordered. Did it just fit right on or were there other custom pieces you had to order?

drobin

helismith, have you gone to this web site yet?It's free to join and they have manuals you can download.I got directed here from the Walkera web site when I was looking for something.

http://www.ehirobo.com/

Orion1024

helismith,

Not that I'm aware of...for my first several repairs I used the pics I took when it was new to guide me on how to re-assemble everything. It's pretty easy to work on. The worst case scenario is if you mess up the gears you need to take the whole thing apart...but the boom and head are easy. If you broke the nub off the tail assembly, get some 'permanent' Scotch DS tape and wrap a single layer around the end of the boom. It holds incredibly well and will let you get the tail blades exactly vertical. If your in a hurry to get things fixed, you should go down to HP with your 36 and pick up the parts for the Shogun. Most of them should work.