TrumpetRhapsody

My 430L is bogging a little in climbouts, and getting pretty hot. I think I may try the Sonix 3550kv on the HDX, see how it works. If I do i'll report the findings.

Rollin Thunder

Orion

Did you notice the wire is longer on the Hex (15cm I think)? On one of my TP's the wire is longer also. Yea I've been meaning to get the blinky or something similar (like the HECELL) for a long time now. I really like the stand alone balancing capability. It balances before, during or after a charge. I don't like the balance chargers. When you spend big bucks for a nice do it all charger the last thing I want to buy is yet another charger.

Orion1024

RT,

Unfortunately, the wires on the Hextroniks are a little shorter than the specs...I think they were around 140mm. It's a big hassle having to extend the wires (I solder them because I don't like using extensions), but for that kind of money it's worth the trouble. Anyway...I'm holding out for the Blinky because it has the bare pins so it can accept any type of balance plug, as long as there are no gaps without a connector. It's something I should have bought a long time ago. I'm not even going to use that new pack I got until I get the Blinky.

HeliSmith

I ordered a nice battery with this discount. I paid 65 bucks for the top of the line Flight Power 25C 2170mAh. I wanted to see what everyone was talking about.

Rollin Thunder

Orion

Even with the shorter wires I've never needed to extend them. It's close but I still have a little slack. Maybe I'm routing them different. I'll try to draw a sort of schematic to post. Might help those that are less skilled with a soldering iron.

Rattlecat

That tail bounce came back this morning. This is getting on my nerves. Either crunch servos, have drift, tail bounce, or pay $140 for a gyro that's 30g heavier. That stinks. They could put a Limit on the Telebee and charge some more.
Since niether the Walkera G006 or Telebee bounce, I assume there is something peculiar to the MS044. My servo is 0.12/sec and they want 0.09 . Only 13% or so out and it won't work ? I suppose I could step the BEC to6v but the gyro maxes at 6.5 and a possible power clitch could kill it when that close.
It still flies in the air moving better than the others, just not so well in hover.
Be advised, PROBLEM IS IN DIAGNOSIS. Still beats servo crunching too. Oh, sixteen batteries and I did not need to adjust the trim. Gotta fix that bounce.


CH

HeliSmith

On your Trex 450 or your Walkera 36? 30 grams difference isn't going to matter too much on your Trex.

I have to tell you the Telebee holds nicely. I am using it in HH mode with the gain through the radio and I never have to fiddle with it. It is definately moving to the Walkera 36. I am definately using the 401 on the Trex.

Rattlecat

HS,
5g here, 10 there, 30 on that, 20 on the motor. Try some tight 8's over 20 feet of ground. My 130g 1800 12C allows much tighter maneuvers than the 160g 2100 Megapower. I definately feel a difference. But the MP2100 is better in wind.
I think I just need to slow the tail down, it is really snappy.
This gyro does not seem to be showing up on bigger helis but it sure works well on the Hornets. I'll look at the large Hornets and see if they use it, but in the manual they imply that it will work better on a large heli.

Well, I feel it coming on. I have scratched a sore from itch and since Walkera hasn't got the 76A-1 out I will get a King V2 for the yard. Still a little heavy at ~470g, My 36 is about 650 AUW. That darn little thing is gettin my goat. I think it will be ok. But it is not easy to find in the US. One guy made a 22E-Compy 300 hybrid, now head parts are easy to get. It's here on RCU.

CH

HeliSmith

I am running all the high weight items under the sun in my Trex. Soon I will even have the 401. Talk about weight my lord I must be pushing some kind of weight. I need to weigh it. It takes off like a flippin rocket with the CC35 + Align 430XL. Flight times are down to under 4 minutes right now but that's why I bought the better battery. I sent my JGF450th motor in and I am waiting on it's return. I like the 430XL though, now that I have had a time to try it I am thinking the JGF500th would have to come out of the box swinging hard to get me to switch back. Either that or just give me straight up 5 minutes and still plenty of power.

I did consider mothing the 36 but I really do believe two things effect how well a helicopter handles in the wind. I believe it is weight + adequate rotor span with a good ratio. Too heavy with not enough wing span and it won't blow around but when the gusts come it could drop. I think the 36 needs to stay around 650 grams AUW.

Rattlecat

That's like wing loading on an airplane. Like the Grumman AA1. Lousy on the tarmac, great in the air at cruise speed, it doesn't get kicked around, but get close to stall and be careful, it will drop like a rock. It has one of the higher wing loading ratings in general aviation. Personally, I think the Cessna 150/152 with a cruise/climb prop is the best all around good for the evenings sport plane. It has one of the lowest wing loading specs. But it is not as popular near the desert areas because the thermals will make flying it a pain in the neck. The AA1 works out pretty well out in California.

CH

HeliSmith

Yeah as it stands right now my Trex is having the dropping problem in the gusty wind. I am running 315mm, I am moving that up to 335.. I tried 315mm Align blades on the 36 but it made it respond slowly on cyclic. Sounded neat though!

HS

Rattlecat

My latest discovery, the tail servo type is critical. I hear so many conflicting things on the web, I just don't know what to believe. Most of our systems are made by someone buying a bunch of stuff and trying to make it all work together. Not as good as a chain engineered system designed by a professional. Align is close to that in their product line, and Walkera also. We need something to do. So, I haven't been bored since I got into helis, just sometimes confused and angry/impatient with stuff that don't work so well together.
All that stuff above translates to an S-75 servo although fast has too much play and the resolution is too low to work well with better gyros. I put an HS-56HB on it and perfecto. The piro can be set to a scary rate with instant snap stops that really concern me that I could snap a tail blade or hub from the sudden stop. Very close to making a crack sound because it stops so fast.
Next comes flight test this evening. I tested it floating with the training balls just off the floor and a few feet up. Now behaves like the Telebee only faster. One problem, the HS56-HB hub is a bit too big in diameter, I need to counter sink the hub screw and make a new hole about 7mm out. That interferes with the limit adjustment which needs to be set very low and should be 75 to 100%.

CH

helifan06

i have same problem too. but i controlled it with throatlle

HeliSmith

I think you will be ok as long as your screws are nicely seated, you don't have an abundance of play and your tail isn't getting warm after flight. Piro and snap all you want.

HeliSmith

If you mean you rose your RPM to compensate the thought has crossed my mind. It gets a little sensitive at high RPM though. If you mean you manage it with collective yeah that's what I do too but you have to be really carefully in extreme gusts.

I think I am turning 2500 RPM right now and my Trex takes off like a flipping rocket and doesn't bog. We did a quick check on my friends Tach.

HS

Orion1024

Yes, I agree there is definitely more to what makes a good servo than just transit time. For example, I've noticed that a lot of digital servos aren't that fast and only claim around a .12 sec transit. I still need to test it out with the Telebee, but I really like the HS81MG so far...it's super smooth operating, quiet and precise. It also doesn't appear to have any play in it whatsoever. It's rated for .11 sec at 4.8V...it would probably be a great servo running a 6V with a .09 sec transit. Running the tail servo @ 6V is something I need to check into. I might just run down to frys and get a 6V linear regulator and make an external BEC for a couple of bucks.

Rattlecat

The 6v system may be better for top 3D stuff, for around the patch I'd stay with 5V and reduce motor wear. I am getting more than 30 hours on my DF4 tail motors (E-Flite BCP ones) by going 7.4v and 50g batteries. By the way, those are True RC batteries, and excellent for the DF4. I do prefer the Megapower 1000 15C 56g batteries in clam winds up to about 8mph, above that the 75g True 1500 10C's help hold it down, but it stalls easier. I just had a DF4 crash 2 days ago when I got in a dive and it would not recover. I now use Trex flybars on the DF4, I just cut the threaded part off and knurl the ends with some heavy pliers that have sharp little teeth. The paddles don't grip the slick steel so well. Ok now. The paddles used to buzz with CF flybars, but now they slice nice. And as someone mentioned, the FF speed goes up a lot. I noticed it but wanted to fly it some more before making the claim. Been up and down with that gyro so much lately.
I can't say enough times how nice it is to have the servo limit. NO CRUNCHING !

I am looking for a weedeater motor. The best I found is the Ryobi 31cc (I think 31) that makes 10lb thrust. The motor is about 6lb un lightened. It will be a nice poodle snatcher.

CH

HeliSmith

ChopHop,

With my Telebee and the Eflite 7gram servo I am not having a problem with over travel. At least I don't think I am. Should I not put the Futaba s9650 servo on my helicopter until I get a 401? I don't want to ruin that very pricy servo.

Also the DX7 has travel adjust. This has nothing to do with how much the gyro will push the servo out though right? Just because your RUDD isn't allowing travel beyond 90 doesn't mean the gyro won't kick out to 110? Is that it?

HS

TrumpetRhapsody

Thought yall would get a kick out of this. I had a nightmare last night. I was hanging out with some random heli guy at his house (never seen him before, you know how dreams can be), and I was showing him my balancer. Well, I was unplugging the balance tap, and all of a sudden POP! Somehow it shorted, swelled up, and my brand new battery was toast! I was quite distraught .

Orion1024

Well, I've been browsing though Tower Hobbies trying to find some stuff to total $50 and can't find anything to buy except the Blinky! (too bad they don't sell a heli case...hmmm). Anyway, I ran across the MX400 and was looking it over...I checked it awhile back, but not in-depth. I got to say that looks like a fantastic heli for $90...it's design has quite a few advantages over the 36. I think I just found my next heli!

Rattlecat

Just get the metal tail hub and carbon tail blades. The MX400's have been throwing tail stuff. Maybe the metal main rotor T also, there WERE some problems with it cracking in flight. I prefer metal T's anyway. The plastic just don't track so well.
I really want the DF60 or King V2 type belt drive, the geared tail drives of all brands have problems with cogs and gears slipping. The single cog seems best.

Wll, it seems my real problem with the MS044 gyro was FOLLOWING instructions or misinterpreting them. A Senior Technician and I didn't get it worked out any faster. Well, the manual says : Delay Setup. Typically the smaller the model and the slower the tail servo, the lower the DELAY trim value. For the Hornet, the initial setup is 0. Well, I started at 0 and worked up to 50% and no help. After the wag and bounce started again today when I got up out of the ground effect, I got desparate and brave then just cranked the delay to max. The tail didn't flinch or wag again for a whole battery. It seems slower, but I have rudder ATV at 60%. The manual says 100%. Should I follow instructions AGAIN ? Yea, I'll try more ATV, that's straightforward.
Well, the other stuff was a help that picked up some minor improvement. I still have some minor tweeks until I get this thing down. The 36 is much heavier than the Hornet and the servo is slightly slower by 13%. That took 100% delay ? Oh well, no servo crunching.

Well, I very lightly puffed my Megapower 2100 15C today, over 90* outside, and I flew 12 minutes instead of 10. The unloaded voltage was 3.77/cell. That's a first for me, but it did shrink back down. It is on it's 78'th cycle.

CH

Rattlecat

HS,
If you are doing ok with the cheapo scumbag servo, just use it until you get the GY401 Gyro. The 401 has limit adjustment. Start out with 50% limit, then keep working out until you see a LITTLE bit of warping in the linkage or a little buzz. Really, the best way is to unhook the belcrank and see where the mechanical limits are then hook it back up. Then keep decreasing the limit until it travels out within a very small margin short, and you hear no buzz or see no warping.
What happens with no LIMIT is the servo can creep on the ground (in HH) and before you know it, you are crunching on one side or the other. You may be adjusting something or even turn the heli and CRUNCH ! Not anymore !

CH

Orion1024

I think it does have a metal tail hub. Actually, the tail assembly looks very similar to the 36 with a few differences (might even be able to use the 36 tail blades on it). Tower has the tail shaft diameter for the MX400 listed as 6mm! I don't think that's right, though. I gave it a good looking over and I'm impressed with the price and design. Tower has all the parts in stock and they're about the same cost as parts for the 36. You can even get the CCPM upgrade with an aluminum swash plate for $37! The only things I spotted that I don't care for is the plastic skids and the tail servo mounting to the frame (if you adjust the belt tension you'll need to adjust the tail linkage). I did read about some problems with the T, but that's something I can investigate when I get it. I'm almost 100% sure I'm going to get it. Anyway...regarding your tail bounce, are you sure there isn't a problem with the servo? I've had brand new packs puff up a tiny bit for no reason at all...as long as it goes back down it should be OK. I think some packs are sealed up better than others and it's just the air inside expanding a little.

Rattlecat

Sorry, I didn't say metal tail GRIPS. I like the MX400 a lot and want one. It looks really good, but you may have some problem with 2100's getting cramped, but not as bad as the DF36. You just tilt them and then they fit. I wanted to try a set of MX400 woodies on my 36 but haven't gotten around to it.
The MX400 antirotation system looks a lot better than the Shogun type. I am looking at adapting the 36 for it or the Trex type.

Ch

HeliSmith

CCPM is way easier to debug. There's so much good information on how to set it up too. I love CCPM.

Orion I think you should spend twice 90 bucks and get this: http://www.raidentech.com/newme3daeccr.html