TrumpetRhapsody

OK so I finally got my pinion on, and spooled her up, but i'm having some issues. I can't seem to get much lift. With the motor unplugged, i set it to mid-stick in inverted mode, and placed the pitch slider in the middle. Back in normal mode, at 0 throttle i tried to set the blades to about neutral minus a little bit, and got the blades tracking as best I could (no pitch gauge btw). Now, the only way I could get enough lift to hover in my hand (at a few clicks past mid-stick) was to set the PLT knob to about 2/3 and the PIT knob to about 3/4. Set like that, the pitch slider is way up even at 0 throttle. Is this ok, or is something wrong?

If this doesn't describe the problem well enough i'll unplug the motor take some pics at the various throttle positions.

Walkera main gear (132 teeth)
Align 430L brushless (11T pinion) w/ BL35X ESC

Rollin Thunder

Stay in normal mode for now. I think with the walkera TX, idle mode follows the lead of normal mode. Did you unlock dip 8? Did you center the plt and pit knobs before you mechanically centered the pitch slider?

ninegeorge

what does C mean on a lipo? should i buy a 12c or 15c with a BL motor?

TrumpetRhapsody

I only switched to idle mode to calibrate. Yeah 8 was unlocked when I got it, and yes they were both centered when I mech centered the pitch slider. I went and read up and refreshed my memory on what they do, and now i have the PIT center, and the PLT at 2/3 *****g out the servo in both directions but not binding. I'll try spooling up when I get my batt recharged and see if I can turn the PLT down some. Is it unusual to have to turn up the PLT like that?

C is the capacity I think. In any case, multiply the mah rating of the battery by the C rating and that will tell you you're nominal Amp draw. 2200mah * 15C = 33A. That's great for most brushless motors for the .30 size copters. It's all about the $$$ though, alot of people get 12C b/c of the $$$.

Rollin Thunder

stay between 2100mah 2200mah and at least 10C. If the 12C is cheaper go with that one.

Rollin Thunder

Calibrate in normal mode. mah is capacity. C is the discharge rate.

rocketman1974

thanks for the information.i fixed the rudder problem.but when i get it off the ground it wants to go to the right and cannot control it. and i tryed to move the adjustment on the controller i had it all the way over and it still wants to got to the right

TrumpetRhapsody

Sorry guys, new problem. I put on a new set of blades that RC&Me sent me with my pinions (nicer looking blades), and reset the pitch. Thrust is no longer a problem, but a new problem has arisen. Around 3/4 throttle, all of a sudden i'll have an explosion of thrust, like the linkages are binding and all of a sudden slip and give an additional like 2* of pitch or something. I don't know what to do about it. I have the #36B CNC head, and there isn't much slop, or so i think. What should I do?

Orion1024

TrumpetRhapsody,

There are several possible causes for binding in the head. The most common is the plastic block inside the washout base catching inside the slot of the main shaft. You can also try loosening the screws a little bit for the various mixing levers and 'U' shaped connector to see if they are the problem. It's also possible you got some Loctite in the bushings for the mixing arms. Probably the best thing to check first is the servo...disconnect the motor and check that the pitch servo movement is smooth and not jumping.

TrumpetRhapsody

-I was worried about the locktite too, so i dissasembled, cleaned, reassembled, applied WD40 to the slider area and moved it by hand and it felt pretty slick, or as slick as metal on metal can be. Tried just the servo movement, it seems pretty smooth, a little jittery but no sudden huge movements. I'll have to wait for my battery to recharge and try spooling up again in the morning, and hope that it doesn't still do it. I'll post again after I try.

-Separate question: What would cause blade A to track above blade B at low speeds, and blade B to track above blade A at high speeds? Because that's what been happening. I've been having a heck of a time trying to get linear thrust and getting the blades in track. I'm just not willing to try getting off the ground till I have everything nailed down this time.


I've been flying the Sims enough that if I crash this time it had better be mechanical, or not at all, and I'm trying to rule out mechanical before I try.

Orion1024

TrumpetRhapsody,

I've had some problems with the blades not tracking properly at low speeds. There can be several causes for this, as well. The transverse shaft can be bent, the rotor head might not be true, or there could be more slop in the bearings for one of the blade grips. I would check the transverse shaft and rotor head, as they are the most important. Before I set the tracking I make sure the blades track good at low speed...if they don't it can cause problems with vibrations or getting the tracking set. You really want everything as perfect as you can get it.

TrumpetRhapsody

Yeah I just replaced a bent traverse shaft, so that can't be it. I may have to file on some of the control arms to get them to not wabble so much. That might be part of the problem with play you mentioned. What could be wrong with the rotor head itself?

Rattlecat

The blades may have a little warp in them, make sure they are straight. The warp will probably straighten out with speed and change the tracking. Also, the blade end needs to be flat around the hole. That can cock a blade and make it change with speed. Of course that Align blade balancer is a must. All mine WERE a little off balance.

About the thrust jump at 3/4 throttle, if you have the stock radio, you are stuck with a fixed throttle curve and have to use the PIT/PLT knobs to reduce or offset the blade travel. I seem to have written in my manual that PLT (left knob) sets how wide the pitch swing is and PIT varies an offset to the travel. So, it looks like turning PIT left will make it lift off earlier when the motor has less thrust and make hovering less twitchy.
Mine is jumpy at 3/4 also, the stock radio one, my 2nd DF36 has a DX6 with pitch/throttle curves to tame the response. A motor more powerful than stock can be tricky to calibrate with the stock radio.

CH

TrumpetRhapsody

Ok, well I guess I'll keep playing with it, and just be really careful around that 3/4 mark. I'm pretty sure I could handle a quick burst of speed normally, but i'm worried about the tail not liking it and ending up backwards, and not being able to compensate for that. I'm still trying to get the tail solid. We'll see.

helifan06

Does someone knows where to buy the shogun V2 metal head besides helidirect.com and rcandme.com??

Helifan06;

Rattlecat

XMseller has it.
Look around here. They have a gyro a guy on RC Groups says is very good and stable. Only $40
Also look at the DF35 and 36 stuff, those heads should fit also.

http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...ter/Categories

CH

Rattlecat

Well,
I weighed my new DF36 ARF build today and was pretty happy with the results. Empty weight 465g with CF blades, 474 with foamies. There are some photos of it a few pages back. It has a JGF 400DF motor/13t pinion, Microheli main gear, Phoenix 35 esc, Telebee gyro, Helidirect 5/6v Ubec, stock canopy painted yellow so it can disappear in the low sun. I found that out the hard way, no crash.
The kit DF36 with a 430L, BL-35G esc, stock gyro, stock gear Trex 450XL canopy weighs 519g empty.
I need to do some curve tweeking and it's good to go.

CH

endoquad

I have a raptor g2 (same heli) and a 1250 lipo. It was ok at first but when it gets up to speed i would get some backwards pitch. I had to add weight to the front to get the CG right. Ran beautifully after that.

Endoquad-

helifan06

hooobby.com sells lipo batteries that fits perfectly in the W36 battery tray. I believe the 2100mAh battery is perfect because it gets your CG in the right spot without any weights. I have one on my W36; and its awesome!!

Helifan06;

endoquad

Yeah, i just ordered a Mega Power 2100 15c. It looked like it would work nicely.

BUT, I think it comes with deans plugs. Should I switch all my plugs over to deans? I run that on my nitro trucks but just got the Heli and was afraid to start cutting wires. [sm=cry_smile.gif]

Anyway, lookin forward to it (the lipo) arriving in the mail!

Endo-

Orion1024

endoquad,

Yes, I would switch everything to deans Ultra Plugs right away...there can be a substantial loss in the BEC plugs and Walkera plug adapter cable. Just make sure you get genuine deans plugs, as the generic ones are inferior and don't fit right.

endoquad

Orion,

Sounds good.

Didn't know there were generics, so I will be on the look out. (is that why some of my deans plugs stick pretty hard?) I have to use needle nose pliars to disconnect.

Endo-

Rattlecat

The Megapower 2100 15C 3 cell balances the 36 very well, almost as if it were made for it. I made an extension tray and moved the canopy fwd at the expense of appearance to save dead weight. Now I can run an 1800 12C 135g battery with no dead weight, the WHOLE reason for using a smaller battery. The extension also reduces the chance of breaking the battery plank (aarr maytee) on the frame.
No dead weight in avation unless there is no other alternative.
One tiny bit of weight would be worth it. Put a strip of 0.080 to 0.1 inch plastic on the floor under the rear (only) skids where they mount to the frame. Don't get shocked when you see how high it lifts the tail up with a very tiny amount of fwd tilt. Won't be any problem for an experienced flier, but newbs may have some problem lifting off. I did it to my DF4's and it is great. A lot smarter than 4 long risers. The strip can also add strength to the rear gear tabs if you drill and mount two screws under the frame, so the rear skid would have a 0.080 strip and 4 gear mount screws. Use the smallest screws possible, like M1 or M1.5 .
Or, some similar thickness plastic tubing, cut in 1/2 and CA'd on the bottom of the plastic landing gear eye that the skids fit through would probably be better, since there may be a little bit of stress from the uneven mounting of the landing gear legs. And it would mean no dissassembly. Superskids sells some plastic rings to fit on the skids, but I don't know what size they are. Just use them on the rear, not all four, that is if they are the correct size to lift the tail.


CH

drobin

On the deans plugs.Mine loosen up some after use but I read somewhere if you plug them together before soldering,the heat won't distort them and they will work easier.I even changed my df4 and foamies over.I had a jbl connection come apart on my df4 lipo when I was trying to fly it in my family room.It caught on fire and burned a hole in the carpet.My wife was not too happy.But at least the lipo was ok.That is the most important thing.Than I changed everything.(can't ruin those lipos)

Orion1024

Yes, when you solder the deans plugs have the male and female connected so the contacts can't move inside the plastic. The generic deans plugs won't even fit together straight from the package! They also appear to use a lower temperature plastic that deforms too easily when soldering.