olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Me too, I can hardly wait for the planes to be built and for the shipment to arrive. Everything seems well thought out here. Brian....

anthonymio

Anyone actually mount an OS 160FX to this bird? Which mount did you use? Seems to me that the Dave Brown 120FS that comes in the hardware kit will require some serious grinding to accept the 160FX.

Tony M.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

If you received the DB mount it would appear that you have one of the early concept samples that was used for finding things that needed to be changed prior to the production run. The firewalls will have been moved aft to accept a wider choice of engines, eliminating the need for a DB mount in the production planes.

As to which mount to use for yours I couldn't say, but one of the guys that has already done it will be able to provide the information for the correct mount.

Pat

ben beyer

My Feedback: (23)

My suggestion is the use of a Great Planes 1.20-1.80 Adjustable engine mount. Since the OS 1.60FX doesn't fit in the Dave Brown included, I guess I'm going to make a swap for this. Perhaps my .02 into the new 1.20 size Edge should be that Tom use the Great Planes mount instead of the Dave Brown. Once again, just my opinion...

rctom

On the first batch of planes the top of the mount area is a little too low to allow use of the GP mount. This will also be changed in production, but for now the DB is the only mount that fits right.

TF

anthonymio

Silversurfer:
The DB mount will fit the OS 160FX if you do some careful trimming of the mounting arm inner surfaces. It only takes about 1/16" from each arm. I would think that this had to be done also in mounting the ST2300 to the DB mount. Based on the posted dimensions for the ST2300, the OS 160FX is only 2.5mm wider (approx. 3/32") then the ST. I did mount my 160FX on the DB mount and drilled and tapped the mounting holes for 8-32 screws. Engine is solid in the motor mount.

RCTom:
You’re right about the firewall. I tried the GP 180 mount and a Hangar 9 aluminum mount that I had in stock. Even though I could get the distance to the cowl opening, at least one of the mounting holes would not fall on the firewall. Particularly if you attempted a horizontal mounting. The DB mounts works best because of where the mounting holes are located on the mount.

By the way, the 160FX will mount horizontally entirely in the cowl (at least in my airplane it does). I have not mounted the Bisson Pitts muffler yet. Given how far back the engine sits, the bottom edge of the engine box may need some very minor trimming.

Tony M.

flatlandmike

My Feedback: (17)

tony can you get a couple or thirty piks of you engine mounting I would like to see the setup before i tackle mine
[8D]

ben beyer

My Feedback: (23)

Well fellas, I ordered the stuff to complete my Edge 1.20 today:

Engine: OS 1.60FX
Muffler: Slimline Pitts Side mounted
Servos: Hitec 5625's for elevator and ailerons, 5945 for rudder
I also bought the hardware kit from Tom, but I'm going to replace the pushrods with Carbon Fiber ones from Central Hobbies.

anthonymio

I have never uploaded photos to this site so if there is better way then let me know. This first picture is the 160FX resting on the engine box with the cowl mouted on the airplane the engine centered within the opening.

anthonymio

Here is a closer shot of the cowl and engine.

flatlandmike

My Feedback: (17)

thanx for the pics do you have some of the mounted engine with out cowl

anthonymio

Now I have slipped off the cowl leaving the engine on the mount, showing where the mount ended up on the firewall. The motor mount top left mounting hole is close, but with a 8-32 t-nut it should still work. You can possibly rotate the mount to the left a few degrees to get the hole farther down the firewall, however, you will end up with the muffler on an angle and perhaps requiring to trim the triangle stock reinforcement on the engine box sides. I am going to leave mine alone as is.

anthonymio

This last set of photos shows the surgery to the DB motor mount. Notice that the mounting holes fell in the center of the arms. The screws used to mount the engine are 8-32 SH cap crews 1" long with flat and split washers. I don't tap the last thee or four threads for the full diameter of the tap. This allows the screw to bite the nylon and lock the screw in.

anthonymio

Ben:

Tom provides CF pushrod material in the kit and used to reinforce 4-40 all-thread rod. If you want to spend some extra money, order only the 4-40 titanium rod ends.

Tony M.

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

anthonymio,
Great job so far and keep the pics coming!! Could you take a pic of the hardware kit, so I can see what it contains?? Thanks....

rctom

Olstoney:

Good job, your installation looks perfect. The only thing I did different was to trim the side of the mount to clear the top wood piece rather than trimming the wood.

On the second batch that little feature is fixed also.

I'm very anxious to hear the results with the powerhouse engine.

TF

CRASH10

My Feedback: (7)

I just put the ST 2300 in mine and it fits perfectly . Motor and standard muffler fits snugly under cowl . No modification needed at all Ill have some cool video of its maiden on saturday weather permitting.

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

look forward to hearing a flight report with this engine. I have a few ST laying around and this might work!

matt

anthonymio

Here are few more pictures of my completed OS 160FX installation. As you can see the 160 and Bisson pitts muffler fit entirely in the cowl. I ended up rotating the engine about 10-15 degrees from horizontal to allow more room between the plug and the cowl side ( I plan to use a remote glow plug setup so I wanted room for the boot). One caution in doing this and using the Bisson muffler. If you rotate more then this amount (10-15 degrees), you may find the front right corner of the muffler extending beyond the cowl, requiring an opening in the cowl to clear. I had to remove a little wood from the bottom of the engine box and the triangle stock in the corners. I typically coat my engine boxes with thin epoxy, and hit it with heat from a heat gun, which makes the epoxy run into and penetrate all the cracks and voids locking the engine box structure nicely. I made two openings on the bottom of the cowl for the muffler pipes and a larger hole to exhaust air for cooling the engine. I plan to cover the holes between the cowl and the interior of the fuselage.

I ended up using 10-32 instead of 8-32 screws and blind nuts to mount the engine mount. With the OS 160 I thought this would be a good idea (plus they were in the hardware kit), it did however require some further modes to the engine box, as well as, having to drill out the DB motor mount holes. The first problem encountered with this was that the top right mounting hole fell under the remote needle valve mount. An 8-32 socket head would have fit however the 10-32 did not. I tried moving the needle valve mount but I could not find a place where it would work properly, unless I mounted it off the engine. Since I was not going to run a pump, I didn’t want to lengthen the distance between the needle valve and carb any more. So, I redrilled the hole on the motor mount to a more convenient spot, unfortunately, this led to a second problem with the new hole ending up at the edge of the firewall.

Continued in next message

anthonymio

My solution was to cut ¼ “ thick piece of aircraft ply about 5/16” wide, gluing with epoxy and pinning it with 1/8” dowel rod to the top of the engine box, flush with the face of the firewall. Effectively, extending the firewall. I also added some triangle stock to further strengthen the structure. The blind nut barbs for this mounting hole penetrate both the firewall and the extension. All the other mount holes fell nicely on the firewall.

It was little work but she should hold up under the 160. Of course I could have taken the easy way out and mounted my Webra 1.20, but what fun would that be.

Later,

Tony M.

anthonymio

Here are the pictures with the cowl mounted.

Tony M.

rctom

Oh what a tangled web. All this stuff is fixed in the nexty rev, it should just be bolt on and go.

TF

ben beyer

My Feedback: (23)

anthonymio,

do you think the needle valve will extend out of the top of the cowl with the OS 1.60FX? That's the engine I ordered for mine and I don't really want to mess with a piece or wire to adjust the needle valve.

mstroh3961

My Feedback: (4)

Ben an alternative to a wire sticking out through the cowl is a socket head cap screw with the threads ground off, inserted into the needle where the wire would go. use a ball driver to adjust the needle.

ben beyer

My Feedback: (23)

Good idea. I think I saw that in a Model Airplane News once, but it hadn't crossed my mind. My next question deals with the elevator servos. Since they're staggerd, how do you do the arms? One up and one down?