This is my Suhkoi that I'm putting a LS-50 in. The engine fits in easily, and the plane is going together nicely. I'm surprised that WildHare doesn't include any bunny decals for the plane. I did not want to buy the Honda graphics so I just did my own. The black on the side seem to just stop so I just carried it through to the tail.

I ran into a slight problem in that when I tighten the cowl up the canopy seems to be jammed making a gap on the bottom of the canopy that wasn't there before, is this a common problem?

Looks good! I might think about opening up the rear bottom of the cowling for a bit more air flow out...... I know it has a canister tunnel for a bit of flow, but I would still open some on the bottom.
Keep up the great work!

I'm going to work on the canopy and engine baffling today, both have me a little baffled.

Here is a note from the manual;

Be sure that the hatch and the cowl are securely attached when you attach the canopy. The canopy will tend to hold the hatch in its set position, so if it’s not mounted on the plane it’s possible that you could build in a twist that will make the hatch fit poorly.

TF

OK, I didn't remember the cowl part. I had it bolted to the fuse when I mounted the canopy though. I found the problem, the front of the top hatch that the canopy attaches to is about .010" too wide and doesn't fit under the cowl. I was able to install it by putting a piece of card stock on the top of the hatch/canopy part, it then sides under the cowl, I then remove the card stock.

This is the nicest ARF I've had, if the only problem you have with an ARF is a part is .010" too wide, (high humidity in New Jersey?), it's got to be really good. I'm normally a scratch build and have built lots of planes, but I can't build this good, if you can let me know who you are and I'll root for you at the next Top Gun contest.

I'm using 4 HS-5985mg one HS-5955tg and one HS-425bb will one 2200 mah 5 cell battery be enough? I'm using a 5 cell 700mah bat for the ignition. I want to try to keep this light.

The current supply capability of a single nimh pack is marginal. If that is a nicd pack you'll be fine.
TF

I put it all together it weighs 16.4 pounds. I still have to hook up the elevators and ailerons, the horns I had on hand I didn't think where up to the job.

I goofed and put the IE switch as far forward like I normally do, the cowl covered it, oops!

I have one 2200 nimh pack in it, would you go one 2400 nicad, or two 2200 nimh with two switches? I have room in the RX for an extra power input for a second switch, I don't have and want to stay away from any complex electrical power supply thingy that I can't remember the name of.

Anyone got pictures of their baffling for a 50cc single in this plane? I'm still trying to figure out how I want to do it, my concerns are:
I want to be able to put the cowl on and off without messing with the baffling.
I like to have my fueler in the cowl at the front of the engine.
I hooked up a Ryobi fuel bulb primer pump, it's near the carb, and I want to be able to reach in and pump it for that first start of the day.
The carb needles are near the bulb I can reach in from the front to adjust them, so I would rather do that than have holes in the cowl for a screwdriver.

What makes you think theengine needs baffling?

TF

I kind of thought real planes all have it we should too.

Ihave never used a baffle on the Sukhoi with DA-50, TOC-53, or DL-50 and have never seen a problem. Also I do not cut out the cowl tvent, air going out the canister tunnel seems to be adequate.

TF

For starters I assume that you have a separate battery and switch for your engine if it has a electronic ignition. This is non-negotiable as you stand a large chance for interference if you do not have separate packs. Secondly from every setup and bit of advice that I have seen about aircraft of this size, you should look at about at either two small battery packs (+- 1500mah) running through two switches, or one large pack (+-4000mah) with two battery outputs running through two switches into your receiver. In all cases you should be looking at operating your servos at around 6V to take maximum advantage of there power and speed.

Cheers
Pupmeister

Pupmeister

Yes, a 700 mah nimh for the IE. So I'll go with the two 2200 nimh 5 cells through two switches.

rctom

OK, no baffles, sure makes it easier.

I ran the engine for the first time just now, it seemed to be OK without baffles for cooling. I like the engine it was very easy to start, with no kickbacks, spooled up very quickly. I put about 40 minutes on it, I have to work on the linkage, it popped off twice, (I used a cheap ball link), and the muffler is loose so I think I blew the gasket because I have the muffler bolts safety wired.

Right now I am a real happy camper. No issues with the plane, just a ball link and gasket to change and I can go fly it.

I hate to say it, but the instructions went missing while away on vacation. I don't know where it should be balanced, it now balances at 6 3/4 inches back from the LE at the root, it will fly at that location, but what is the design BP?

Balance on front half of the wing tube for the first flight.

TF

OK, I'll test fly it Monday. Thanks

Any way to change the spelling in the title so it reads correctly?

[:@][:@][:@]Man that's embarrassing, never do anything in the morning before you have coffee![:@][:@][:@]

I have trouble spelling Sukhoi when I'm fully awake!

Anyone want to rename it Low Wing Yak?

You'll love it. I love mine. I have about 5 flights with it and it's about time to lean out my TOC 53. I put a new prop on (WH 22x8) makes this thing fly like a bullet. I'm interested to see what happens when I lean it out. My only problem is, it floats so easily. It takes about 10 tries to land it. Other than that it's a great plane.

Did you tach it yet? My LS-50 was turning Xoar 22x8 6300 rpm today, idling at 1800 rpm, WH and Xoar are the same props.

I ran the motor some today getting ready for tomorrows maiden flight. I found I don't need the Ryobi pump, and you can easily flood the engine with it.[:@]

My plane balanced at the back of the wing tube. I used the recommended servos and it still came out tail heavy![:'(] I'm going to ditch the 700mah battery for the IE and put a 2400mah NiCad in to help the balance problem. No spinner for me, I think radial engines with spinners look goofy. The directions say balance at the front of the wing tube for the first flights, what BP are you guys using for normal flying?

I posted some pictures of the servo setups.

I found a picture of an instrument panel for a SU-26, I printed it out 7 1/2 inches wide, I think it looks good.

Soarrich:

What kind of control horn do you have on the aileron? How does it attach?

If that's the kind that screws down to the surface plan on buying a new plane very soon. Do not fly it with that type of control horn!

The plane is designed to work with stud type horns, not with "fasten to the surface" type horns. You are probably screwing into balsa wood which will last only until you really need it, then the horns will probably detach.

TF

No, it uses four 4-40 bolts through to a backer plate. I couldn't fine any stud type other than what I used on the stabs, and they seemed overkill. On the stabs I had to cut and redrill the part that comes forward to the hinge line, the whole thing did not seem well thought out, I'm a little disappointed with those stud horns. The best thing to do would have been to buy your hardware package, but when you have more stuff than most hobby shops you figure you already got everything you'll need, I just haven't been doing large planes that long.

It's a good thing I did another engine run and shake down test today, I forgot to Locktight one of the aileron servo arm screws an it shook out. [:@] It was nice it was sitting on the ground though I even found the screw.

So far this is the best ARF I've ever assembled, only two thing are not perfect:

First the holes for the hinges are a little too large, so you almost have to use PolyU glue on them, they are perfectly drilled, but if you drill them the right size you can't get them out without them ripping wood on the way out so I understand why they do it. I would rather they drill the right size holes then just tape the surfaces on, and have the hinges in a bag.

The second is so common I've never seen an ARF without this problem. The starved horse look. They cut the bulkhead to the shape they want the fuse to be, but using stringers it will never be that shape, so the should relieve the bulkheads so that the covering flows the length of the fuse with the stringers.

I test flew it today Wow, what a nice plane! It flies very well, my Lanier 87 inch Yak 54 only has 2 inch greater wingspan and weighs 5 to 6 pounds more, I could really feel the difference on landing it just floated along so slow. This plane hovers very easily I didn't even use 3D rates. I'm not a 3D capable pilot, just a sport pilot with 37 years experience so I can only say this seems like it's going to make 3Ding doable for me. I only got in one flight on this today, but tomorrow I hope to get a lot more.

I changed out the 700mah Nimh for a 2400mah NiCad for the IE to move the BP forward from the back of the wing tube to about the center of it before I flew it. The balance seemed good, but on the first flight I'm really too nervous to do much more than just fly it around for ten minutes and try to not do anything too stupid.

I can hardly wait for Tom to get back from vacation. I have decided this is the next one for me! I have flown my WH Cap 232 so long it needs a new covering job and I just don't want to spend the time to do it. I plan on putting a Zenoah 445 on the nose. Anyone done that?

This will be the third Wild Hare plane I have had. They all seem to fly GREAT!

You'll love the plane.

I didn't really understand what header drop was so I ordered my header with no drop. My header hit the motor mount box, so I made a adapter plate to let the header rotate 10* down, (up in the picture), now I'm just waiting for my 3WCM-L70 canister to arrive.

This canister seems like it will pretty much block the hole at the bottom back of the cowl so I think I'm going to have to open something else up. Has anyone ever actually cut open all the gill slit loovers and used them?

I'm new to this, so does anyone see anything wrong with my can setup?

I had to cut about 1 1/2 inch off the header pipe to get the can in the tunnel. I could take a little off the can's intake pipe to move the can forward more, right now the back of the can is touching the curved end of the tunnel some.

I wrapped the can with teflon where the hose claps run around it. The hose claps are pop riveted to the bottom of the tunnel, and backed up on the inside with a thin sheet of aluminum.