Big-Mo

My Feedback: (5)

Morning all:

I know im not the only person in the world that has found this problem. I recieved a YS 140FZ motor and one of the pushtube sockets on the crankcase where the tushtube o-ring goes has a small chunk chiped out of the casting, so the o-ring wont stay in place or hold tube correctly. My question short of a new case I would like any advise as to how t fix it .
thanks for your time and experience.
see attached photos. one is of chiped place and other is of normal one.

thanks again

Big-Mo

XMANS

Hi Big Mo,
The simplest and easiest thing to do is to replace the housing, I dare say some one in the U.S would have a good s/hand unit they could sell you, I think I may even have one but the shipping from Australia would kill it.
You could try building it up with JB Weld (epoxy) don't know how long it will last for, or even alum welding, but unless you know someone who can do it, don't waste your time, replace it.

Unless some other viewer has a better way to fix it.

It's crucial for the running of the engine that the O ring seals, if it's not sealing it's a waste of time trying to run the engine.

Will Crossman

Big-Mo

My Feedback: (5)

Hi will and thanks for the reply. I'm trying the jb weld idea. and even fabricated a aluminum band to go around the o-ring area on that side, built it up a little bit bigger and then glued the aluminum strap around the first jb patch, going to dress it down this afternoon and see how it looks. IF it doesn't crack out I actually think a very thin layer of black silicone or urethane sealant on that o-ring and i just might have it whipped. ill post pics later.

once again thanks for the reply.

Hey will,
Just in case how much would ya take for a fz140 case>?

regards
Don Franklin

Big-Mo

My Feedback: (5)

Ok Guys here is my repair , I haven't painted the jb yet and its not totally Cured to do the finish work but ii think it is going to work.
After getting the correct size filler 0.350t tubing I coated it with silicone mold release spray. let it dry got the tube plumb and square with the other pushtube locked it in place with the head. took some aluminum duct tape to make a cup for a larger fillet to have extra strength,.
let is setup over night. 6 hours.

removed the tape and tubing, filled to little imperfection i had inside the cavity where the original chip was missing from, added a .90t aluminum strap half way around the pushtube standoff, glued it on with more jb weld let it setup for 6 hours. did a Little rough trimming to get what you see here, after it cures tonight and tomorrow i will final finish t Had drop a little aluminum paint on it just to camouflage it.

The O-ring fit nice and tight and are as perfectly round as i could get it with my end mills.


comments are welcome.

XMANS

Hi big mo,

Looks good, may just work, depends on heat and expansion as to how long it will last, who knows, nothing ventured nothing gained.

As for my s/hand crankcase, about half new price is fair plus shipping.

Now Troy is no longer here everyone has to start learning these things for them selves, but we can still keep this forrum open if everyone chips in with their knowledge.
Now I'm not a great one for tuning, I get by with no problems, but when it's beyond tuning, thats my dept.

Will

Mike Pascale

I tryed to open a new forum but will add to this one
End the pass 2 years I have drop the exhust valve seat and 1 intake valve seat in 4 different 140 sport engines all have been the next day after engine cools down.
I use morgan 30% heli RPM 8300 to 8500 prop is a 16/11 valve setting is .002 engine Idles about 2300 to 2400 the last one I check temp on engine and it was 160deg.
Temp out side was appox 94 deg had no problems during flight landed . went home the next day went to start engine and locked up valve seat drop on to piston.I'm just glad Buddy Brammer had a spare to fly in contest any help in this sure would be welcome are any questions.

mjfrederick

Mike, I think you're running lean. Your idle should be about 2000. How's your transition? Does it surge at idle? Does it sag through transition? More information would be helpful to try and figure out what's going on. I'm not very familiar with the tuning on the pressure-driven 4-strokes since I've only run DZ's, but if you expand on the description maybe we can figure out why this keeps happening to you.

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Mike,

I sent you an e-mail back, but if Richard said it could be detonation he would be THE man who would know.

Pete