hezik

Ah well, as someone else stated. this version is light.. there's a dutch saying, by soccer legend Johan Cruijf, "elk nadeel heb z'n voordeel", which roughly translates to "there's an upside to every downside"

nofuss

Hi Pablo,

I saw your posted pictures of your build. I have the same Plettenberg power plant and am very interested to know whether you perhaps have the template you used to create the firewall from. I would really appreciate any and all help aforded by you.

Take care

Danie

nmartin

Danie,

A firewall template for the Wind 2m and Plett combo, if it helps.

Cheers,
Neil M.

nofuss

Much Appreciated Neil...

What Pletti are you running, and what sort of temperatures are you getting down under :-)

Should you wish to, please share your power plant equipment specs?

Cheers
Danie

nmartin

Danie,

Power plant specs are:

Plett 30-10 Evo, Schulze 32.80KA, RASA 20.5x14 (standard carbon prop).

Batts: Rhino 4900mAh 20C in 5S+5S, and 25C in 4S+6S. Also Flightmax 5000mAh 20C in 5S+5S.

Re temps - haven't measured the Wind 2m with any kind of ‘device’. However I do have a basic rule that if I can touch or hold onto the motor after a flight then everything should be within operating parameters. To date with Wind 2m/Plett the motor has really only been lukewarm after a flight. ...But the real warmer/summer months should be upon us soon (supposedly!!!)

FWIW - I do run an open spinner, but mine is more "skeletonised" than simply having the end cut off

Cheers,
Neil M.

jnred123

Neil
Have you noticed any difference between the 20c and 25c Rhino packs, also the 4s/6s combo gives some flexibility for use on other stuff is there any downside to that combo?
Just about to jump into my first electric pattern model.
Cheers
Greg.

hezik

Only downside could be your charger, depending on how you charge the packs.

There also is an upside, working with 4s and 6s saves one long thick wire on the pack, and thus such a pack is slightly ligter.

I've had a problem with my WindS. I don't know how those things are called in English, we call them 'propmeenemers', the devices one puts on an axle to fix the propellor on. I used one from simprop for an 8mm axle, the AXI has an 8mm axle, but as it turns out this one doesnt grab on enough.

Result was that in the 7th flight, the spinner/prop combo came forward during flight, the prop went off center. Though I immediatly killed throttle when that happened, I wasn't in time to prevent this to destroy the original firewall.

Basically, this picture tells a lot:


Also, the inner part was still really stuck in it, so it was fastened enough, it just didn't have enough grip on the axle.

The bolts used to mount the engine, took the first blow, bending them, but eventually the firewall broke on 3 of the 4 holes..





I made a new firewall of 5mm aircraft grade plywood, glued that in behind the original, filled the missing pieces with balsawood, laminated 2 layers of 150 carbon on the backside, and spraypainted the final ~4mm of the fuse.

Somewhere in the middle of this:




Nearly done fixing..







And all fixed up and ready to go again!







Although the original construction was strong enough (nothing will hold with a way off-balance prop spinning at 5000RPM), I did leave more wood on the firewall this time.

If wanted, I have a template in PDF form for this firewall.

Lessons learned: don't use a Simprop 'propmeenemer' on an Axi engine, and motip has a red that exactly matches the red on the WindS.

Total weight gain: 13 grams. I can live with that.

nmartin

Hi Greg,

The 25C packs weigh less than the 20C packs and so that's the main difference In regards to flying, can’t really perceive any difference. Although maybe I should mention the age of the packs is quite different, the 20C packs are just into the 50 flight mark compared to the 25C packs which might be just on the 10 flight mark . I can at least say the 'older' 20C packs are still going strong.

Your right about 4S/6S setup, the 6S can be used for other stuff like the "50e" mini-me planes . For example I use the 6S packs in a Miss Wind 50e.

Good luck with the first electric.

Cheers,
Neil
Adelaide, South Australia

hezik

Since someone asked me, hereby the templates for mounting the Axi 5325 the way I did.. nothing elaborate. 2 files, one for if you want to use the original firewall, one for if you want to glue a new firewall in right behind the original.

http://www.rcfly.nl/WindS/axi_template.zip

offcourse, usage is fully at own risk, I will take no responsibility in any way. To be printed on A4 size paper.

nofuss

Hi All,

With regards to the right thrust standard on this kite, are there any expert opinions on it being too much, or too little...

We have noticed a slight tendency where we believe a little less right thrust is on the cards?

Anyways, just thought I'd ask...
Also, I realise this would vary with different props, so I should ask what props are being used to be included in the reply posts?

Regards
Danie

hezik

I don't think that question can be answered. It also depends on which engine you're going to use, which prop, what CG you're going to use, and so on. Also two exactly the same birds may end up needing slightly different right thrust.

So far I have flown 7 flights with mine, and the right/down thrust seems to be spot on.

flyingtomg

My Feedback: (10)

I have a couple of questions about the wing tube for this plane.

1) Does the included tube seem a bit long? Does it really need to be as long as it is?
2) I've noticed people talking about how heavy the tube is. If you've replaced yours with something else, where did you get it?

Thanks,
flyingtomg

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

The standard PBG 103T (7/8" X 30") tube is a little short. We had PBG make us some special length 7/8" x 31.5" tubes as a replacement for the factory tube. The weight of the stock tube is 4.15oz and the PBG is 2.16oz so essentially a 2oz savings. Most everyone I have heard from makes weight with the stock tube so this would be an individual choice to save a couple ounces and not a necessity to make weight. The stock tube does have a very slight taper < 1/64" at the ends so you may need to relieve the sockets a tiny bit or even wet sand a tiny amount from the PBG tube which is a constant 7/8" diameter.

matt13

We just had our first Pattern competition here in South Australia today, at Constellation's field.

There were four Wind S pro's present as well as one Wind S 50, the day ended up with a bit of wind blowing down the line, and they handled it well.

All have the wing adjusters fitted, and Neil is experimenting with some winglets which seem to improve the rolling manoeuvres a bit, really starting to enjoy this model[8D]

matt13

Forgot to add this photo of Graham's modified colour scheme, he preferred a little less Blue!

Velco

Seems there is a new version of this bird also with composite wings. Just noticed it on the F3A Lorenz site and all I can see apart from the new (higher) price is that wings look to be also composite and some minor aero mods. Well this is just a guess because the photo is very unclear but the title says Full Composite.

http://www.f3alorenz.de/home-f3a/bod...o-voll-gfk.htm
http://www.f3alorenz.de/home-f3a/win...0voll-gfk2.jpg

cheers

woodie

Just got back from helping a friend setup (try to setup) the incidence and thrust on his new Wind S Pro. As others have commented here, the factory setup appears to be a little hit or miss as to how it will be delivered. I contacted the factory previously (thru a USA distibutor) to verify what the settings are supposed to be coming from the factory and they verified it should be set up 0-0-0 with some right thrust as delivered from the factory. Others have noted similar issues/problems in this thread.

Well, long story short, my friend will be making some significant mods to this plane to even get it close to 0-0-0. As delivered, the wing is -2 degrees negative to the nose ring and the left stab adjuster cannot even get to zero relative to the wing, the closest he can get it is with the stab leading edge down -1 degree relative to the wing. The left stab adjuster is not even close to being centered vertically in the stab. Right stab is fine. So, wing is -2 to the nose ring and left stab is at least -3 (leading edge down) relative to the nose ring.

In my opinion, the Wind S Pro is one of the most beautiful planes available in F3A kits/ARFs, and they fly very well when you can get the incidences and cg set up correctly. However, the hit and miss set ups from the factory are surprising. AND, why don't the factories put in wing adjusters? Not everyone wants to fly a 0-0-0 setup. Since the factory can't hit 0-0-0, why not put in wing adjusters in addition to the stab adjusters, spend a little time getting things in the right location and let us adjust them the way we want.

Guys, I don't like to flame manufacturers in a forum like this, they do have a tough job trying to keep us happy, but this is a basic QA/QC problem. It certainly is not a weight problem, the plane is very light, his projected weight is around 4800 grams with 1200 gr batteries. The quality of the physical build and finish is fine. However, now my friend has to spend several hours retro fitting adjusters or grinding out the ply donuts to even get to the settings it is supposed to be let alone anything beyond that. He is not a happy camper and this certainly put a damper on his enthusiasm, he thought he would be test flying tomorrow. Well, maybe next week.

OK, I will go get my flame suit, have at me........ ;-)

Woodie
Team Acme LG
Team Blenderm

nmartin

Shirley there must be a golden rule in there somewhere:- if one installs wing adjusters during the building phase then the wing incidence will never need adjusting. Or, if adjusters aren’t installed from the beginning then one will wish they were. ...And don’t call me surely.

Cheers,
Neil M.

jgg215

Would someone who has added wing adjusters to the Wind post some description and pictures of how they installed them? Might save some of us from reinventing the wheel.

Thanks

John

woodie

John, I did install adjusters in another friend's Wind S Pro. I will try to find the pix and post them here. Luckily it is not difficult.

Woodie
Team Acme LG
Team Blenderm

matt13

I did mine the easy way, attached the adjusters to where the rear anti-rotation pins were, push out the blind nut in the wing and move it to where the front anti- rotation pin was.

I have them adjusted to 1degree positive, from a factory setting that seemed to be about 0.5 degrees positive. There seems to be an improvement, but it looks like it may need a bit more positive again, love this model though!

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Matt,

I would also add some downthrust. Andrew Jesky and I have both added about 1 washer spacer of downthrust and it made a much larger different than the wing incidence did. It eliminated all of the pull to the canopy. When I played with changing the incidence very much the rolls seemed to begin to require differential. A friend of mine who is an Aerospace engineer at work told me that with the wing that high on the fuse you have to be careful messing with incidence much and that from his perspective thrust was much easier to change and would require much smaller changes, and from what I have found, it is true.

Arch

nmartin

Arch,

>It eliminated all of the pull to the canopy

Would you just clarify if you mean pull to the canopy in knife edge or pull to the canopy in a downline?

Then, with the additional down thrust did you need to compensate ‘level’ fight with some up elevator trim? And if up trim was added then did that affect the knife edge flight?

Thanks.

Cheers,
Neil M.

hezik

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you're bending your wing here? Since the forward point is fixed and the wingtube is fixed. The wing fixed onto the fuse on 3 points; the forward point, the wingtube and the aft point. You only made the aft point adjustable, so doesn't that mean you're effectively bending the wing?

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

His setup is actually two point adjustment system, if I am not mistaken. The nylon wing bolt inserts into a slot on fuse that allows some up and down movement. This is similar to that on a passport.