FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51
#2003
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RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51
Hopefully the end result of this canopy will be satisfactory. Busy installing the rails and latching mechanism.
#2004
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RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51
Does anyone know of plans, a build forum or some pics for the Comp-arf drop tanks
I have a general idea but cannot figure out bout the arms articulate with the mount
Scott
I have a general idea but cannot figure out bout the arms articulate with the mount
Scott
#2005
RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51
Scott,I have a set of drop tanks and mounts I will not use. Email me off line and you can have them. The mount in the pic used a micro servo (got them from a gentleman in Germany). The servo arms held the drop tank and when triggered would align with small hole in tank to jettison. The mounts I arm referring to had a better scale look, but the articulating mounts had to be formed. Charlie
#2006
RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51
hi, does anybody has any idea about fialla 4 blade props to a dle 80cc engine;
i wonder if a dle 80cc could swing a 4blade 26x8 fialla prop(they are relatively light props) at about 6.000 r.p.m(without reduction gear)......... or i am very optimistic;
i wonder if a dle 80cc could swing a 4blade 26x8 fialla prop(they are relatively light props) at about 6.000 r.p.m(without reduction gear)......... or i am very optimistic;
#2011
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Any one here in the continental USA have an extra set of inner gear doors that they're willing to part with? I have had habitual engine issues, which have resulted in 2 off-field landings (which ripped out the inner doors). I was able to repair the doors after the first event, but last Sunday's madness completely destroyed the right inner door (they sequence so slowly that when I realize I'm going to have to ditch the plane and retract the gear, the doors are still hanging down).
PM me here if you have something!
Thanks,
Noah
PM me here if you have something!
Thanks,
Noah
#2012
Alf,
The Inzpan 1/4 scale is a little on the large side with the model being 1/4.5 scale but it will fit with some adjustment. It is a good product and most of the work is done for you. I posted some pictures way back in this thread so have an excuse to show them again.
cheers
Ed
#2014
It is not a difficult job with any good quality materials and a bit of practice. I used a variety of tapes and you work panel by panel. You can achieve different affects like stainless steel sections of the cowl. See pictures in My Gallery or earlier in this forum to get an idea of the affects possible The wings laminar flow surfaces were factory painted normally in a silver grey and not bare metal so this reduces the amount of work required. If you get a panel wrong it's easy to start again. Compound curves are the hardest. You can dull down with some steel wool and highlight rivets etc and simulate repaired panels as well as smaller access panels.
#2015
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What are people using for air cylinders to open/close the inner main gear doors? I'm using the small Robart air cylinders (1 per door) and they open/close the doors perfectly. The problem I'm experiencing is that during flight, at certain bank angles, the doors open because air is getting in under the door (I think!) and pulling it open. In straight and level flight, no problems.
I installed small magnets to help hold the doors closed. I used the largest magnets that would still allow the cylinder to push the door open. But the problem in flight still persists. Also when I land, I notice that the air pressure is really down (a lot of air used during the door opening and closing during flight?)
Thanks for any suggestions,
Pete
I installed small magnets to help hold the doors closed. I used the largest magnets that would still allow the cylinder to push the door open. But the problem in flight still persists. Also when I land, I notice that the air pressure is really down (a lot of air used during the door opening and closing during flight?)
Thanks for any suggestions,
Pete
#2016
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you could install a second air tank to help keep the psi higher for a longer time, more cycles of the gear. Once the new wears off you won't cycle the gear except on takeoff and in preparing for landing.
#2017
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Thanks for the idea; I'm already running a second tank - pressure is between 120 to 140 psi. I don't cycle the gear during flight as it is now; but it seems with the gear doors blowing open it's consuming a lot of air....
No one else having this problem? Could someone please post some detailed pics of their inner gear door / air cylinder setup?
Pete
No one else having this problem? Could someone please post some detailed pics of their inner gear door / air cylinder setup?
Pete
#2018
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It is not a difficult job with any good quality materials and a bit of practice. I used a variety of tapes and you work panel by panel. You can achieve different affects like stainless steel sections of the cowl. See pictures in My Gallery or earlier in this forum to get an idea of the affects possible The wings laminar flow surfaces were factory painted normally in a silver grey and not bare metal so this reduces the amount of work required. If you get a panel wrong it's easy to start again. Compound curves are the hardest. You can dull down with some steel wool and highlight rivets etc and simulate repaired panels as well as smaller access panels.
#2019
My Feedback: (43)
use a cylinder with a larger diameter, that will give you more holding power since there is a larger volume of air over or under the piston holding it in place. Unless something is leaking, the door being sucked open will not use more air. It compresses the air that is holding the door closed...assuming that the cylinder retracted = door closed.
If the cylinders are slowing down their movement while airborne due to air resistance, that will use more air than a ground retraction since the valve is bleeding air longer.
If the cylinders are slowing down their movement while airborne due to air resistance, that will use more air than a ground retraction since the valve is bleeding air longer.
#2020
thank you veru much for your fast reply, i will use aluminuim tape for sure, but the problem is that i cannot find any aluminium tape larger than 10 cm width and carf p51 has many panels wider than 10cm and i dont want to use two aluminium stripes side by side or i will destroy scale appearence of the plane by creating more panel lines than the real one!!does flite metal solves that problem or not; what i want to ask is :does flite metal has the same stucture compaired to aluminuim tape or it is more thick than aluminium tape (probably i say) so you cannot copy-bring to upper surface all the scale details that the models already has using flite metal; with aluminium tape i have a very good result because its rather thin and with a little finger pressure every scale detail comes to surface.
I cannot comment on flite metal because I have not used it but there are many models finished with this product and is designed for the job and by all accounts works very. You should look to get foil that is no thicker then 30 microns. I can find tape up to 100-150mm width duct foil tape easily from various suppliers and even on that weel known acution site, which I have used on my models. .A source in the UK for modeld is something called Metalcoat from Mick Reeves models which is sold 600mm wide and I have used this on my Mustang pictured also. It is a bit softer than commercial foil tape and probablysimilar to flitemetal. The foil needs to be rubbed down, I use steel wool and a smooth wooden burnish stick to bring out detail, you will be surprised how this shows up unwanted marks and imperfections so surface detail is no problem.
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I cannot comment on flite metal because I have not used it but there are many models finished with this product and is designed for the job and by all accounts works very. You should look to get foil that is no thicker then 30 microns. I can find tape up to 100-150mm width duct foil tape easily from various suppliers and even on that weel known acution site, which I have used on my models. .A source in the UK for modeld is something called Metalcoat from Mick Reeves models which is sold 600mm wide and I have used this on my Mustang pictured also. It is a bit softer than commercial foil tape and probablysimilar to flitemetal. The foil needs to be rubbed down, I use steel wool and a smooth wooden burnish stick to bring out detail, you will be surprised how this shows up unwanted marks and imperfections so surface detail is no problem.
#2023
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What are people using for air cylinders to open/close the inner main gear doors? I'm using the small Robart air cylinders (1 per door) and they open/close the doors perfectly. The problem I'm experiencing is that during flight, at certain bank angles, the doors open because air is getting in under the door (I think!) and pulling it open. In straight and level flight, no problems.
I installed small magnets to help hold the doors closed. I used the largest magnets that would still allow the cylinder to push the door open. But the problem in flight still persists. Also when I land, I notice that the air pressure is really down (a lot of air used during the door opening and closing during flight?)
Thanks for any suggestions,
Pete
I installed small magnets to help hold the doors closed. I used the largest magnets that would still allow the cylinder to push the door open. But the problem in flight still persists. Also when I land, I notice that the air pressure is really down (a lot of air used during the door opening and closing during flight?)
Thanks for any suggestions,
Pete
You can also try Lado E-Door Actuators. They come in 20 and 30mm Stroke Length and have plenty of holding torgue.
#2025
Pete,
I have been thinking about your door problem. It may not be the cylinders you are using. I uploaded a U Tube vid (crude please forgive), look at the distance of the top and door mounts of the air cylinder. If this distance is off the leverage on the door will be off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qsOlXG3HV4
Charlie
I have been thinking about your door problem. It may not be the cylinders you are using. I uploaded a U Tube vid (crude please forgive), look at the distance of the top and door mounts of the air cylinder. If this distance is off the leverage on the door will be off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qsOlXG3HV4
Charlie