johnhi

Engine is all fixed and running really well, lesson learned keep an eye on the cylinder head bolts and make sure they are nice and tight.

scubaozy

I have started breaking in mine last weekend. I have so far 3 tanks through. During break in, number 3 was often misfiring, because it was extremely rich and oil was dribbling continuously from the exhaust manifold.Perhaps it is leaking, I will recheck next time. I also checked the bolts after each tank and yes I found that number three needed tightening! I wonder whether there is a correlation between running rich and loosening of the bolts as it has occurred on same cylinder..

kwik

FG-60 in a Sist D9 and an ESM D9;

It is, no doubt, the perfect engine for a scale 1/5 Fw 190-D9.
And for a 1/5 A-model, for that matter.
And for the TF-190, too.

No break in for us......just 20ml oil in the crank case before first startup, and fly.

L-needle ; 6.5 out ( !! )
H-needle ; 1.5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AGdihDBCco

scubaozy

Very nice video. Mine is installed on Top Flite Corsair. I will try your settings, my L was @7 turns, I guess I can lean it out a little.

labebe

Hi, I'm planning to install the FG 60R3 on my new Top Flite Giant Corsair. Is there any problem with the cow?? Will fit inside the cowl with out cut it??? What about power, is it enough???
thanks, Alex

scubaozy

I have not installed the cowl yet but everything does fit into the cowl without cutting. I have not flown the plane yet, either but I don't expect any problems with power, I will report after the maiden.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Given the # of youtube flight video's showing FG-60R3 in P-47, Spit's & LA-7 spinning 22x10's, I suspect it'll fly it fine.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Also the TF FW190

labebe

Please let me know when you finish it. I really don't want to cut the cowl.
what exhaust are you going to install????
Alex

BDKelly

Hi There,

I've just finished breaking in my FG60R3. I'll be putting it into a scratch built 1/5 scale Mr. Mulligan 1935 racer.

Everything for the break in went text book, and the engine runs beautifully. I never had to touch the low end mixture. Transitions are fast and smooth.

Just one issue: I could not get the engine to start without choking it. Choking is required to initially pull gas up from the tank, which is a little bit below the carb on my test stand and will be in the plane too. Attaching the vent line to the tap on my Keleo exhaust, and attempting to pressurize the tank a bit by plugging the exhaust and turning the prop over does not seem to work.

It is odd that my FG-57 twin comes equipped with a means for choking, but the FG60 does not (different carb). It's going to be a pain rigging a choke mechanism deep inside the plane.

Do any of you have experience with this? Must I rig a choke?

Also, I'd be interested to know what oil/gas ratios you all have settled on.

Thanks

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Did not have to choke mine. Are you starting by hand?I used an electric starter.

scubaozy

I am using the stock exhaust pipes. I have stuffed the ignition above the firewall, would not be possible with a Keleo. You will have to cut the cowl whatever engine you have for the exhaust exit and air exit but this will be at the bottom of the cowl.
I have maidened mine today and maiden was not so great; I had a deadstick but was able to belly land safely without damage. After investigation, found that it was my fault, plumbing of the air vent was bent too much not allowing enough air. I have fixed it and flew again and it went much better this time. The engine has more than enough power but I am still not happy with the settings. At take off, it took a while to come to max rpm and in the air it was surging occasionaly.

I am currently using Valvoline full synthetic 18:1. I have read that valvoline does not burn fully so there is plenty going to crank case. Starting by hand is not so hard. I start flipping with 1/5 gas open (with secured plane) I guess it is around 20 flips until it starts. Having said this, my tank sits a bit higher than the carb, this could be reason that it starts easier. Sometimes I get fuel drible from the carb.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Non-ethanol mixed 15:1 Morgan Cool Power synthetic w/1 oz Seafoam per gallon. Works well for me.

Cheers

hpergm

Choking a radial always entails the risk of bending a rod of the lower cylinders due to fuel poolling leading to hydrolock.
This is probably why Saito avoided to include a choke, although the 120degree orientation of the 3-cylinders makes this a remote possiblity.

Anyhow, the engine does like to start wet. Here's what I do; I place a temporary tubing extension on the tank breathing line (usually exiting the bottom of the plane), open the throttle fully and blow into the tank by mouth for 2-3 seconds while holding the aircraft tail up (if a tail dragger). Then close the throttle, rest the aircraft back on its tailwheel on the ground and proceed to turn the engine by hand 2-3 times to make sure no cylinder is floodded. Throttle @ idle and it will start right up.

I found that this is required only for the first flight of the day. After that, closing the carb barrel 100% and flipping 4-5 times brings fuel up every time, since the diaphragm is already wet and filled.

I avoid using a starter; you would not be able to feel the hydrolock with a starter...

scubaozy

Hey thanks for the eye opener. While flipping today, I have noticed once that prop did not want to turn at all, I wondered what it could be. Had never heard before about a hydrolock.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I only use the starter when the engine is cold.I hand start after that.No issues so far.

scubaozy

Here is a photo how the cowl looks like. I still did not cut exhaust exit and it is pain to get to the ring screws because of the ignition wires and the cylinders.

labebe

Hi, any news about your corsair with the Saito 60R??
will fit inside the cowl?? Without cut it
thanks.
enough power???

labebe

Are you gonna use a Keleo exhaust .????

labebe

So sorry, I just red above

scubaozy

I have put in 7 more flights with the engine and I am not sure I got the tuning right. Engine has plenty of power so I do reach 6300-6400 rpm but funy thing is not in WOT, at around 70% throttle. My settings are currently 6 turns on L and 1 1/16 on H. At around half throttle it sounds rich burbling and 4 stroking (I know this is already 4stroke but you know what I mean). At full throttle my guess is it is turning 5-6000 rpm in the air, so slightly I have to back the throttle to get full speed. Comparing to most ppl, it looks like my settings are looking too lean but if I get it more rich then 3rd cylinder is dropping out, plus, it feels that I could lean the L even further if I listen to the engine. I am looking for some advice on how to tune it correctly. I have not touched the tapet adjustments yet.

labebe

More or less, what altitude from sea level are you flying ????

hpergm

1. Make sure you don't overstress the carb throttle lever @ 100% stick. If you push the barrel to the travel limit, this happens (strangely). It must be a design issue with the Saito gas carb. Just re-adjust the WOT end point of the throttle servo so that there is no buzz. Then you will get consistent max RPM @ max throttle.
2. 6,400 is very OK performance on an APC 22x10 (I assume this is what you got). No further tune required at the top end.
3. Unless perfectly and tuned, the Saito radials will undergo chance misfires along their whole operating range. Perfect tune will not be achieved unless the engine is thoroughly run in, tappets readjusted and then re-tuned. Dropping the 3rd cyl and mid-range rich sounding are indications that your engine is not yet fully ready... How many tanks/hours do you have on yours? (it took more than 5lt of bench running in mine to achieve perfect tune...).
4. If you can bother, try to tune it at higher mid-range (75% of rpm) with cylinder temperature. This then gives you the perfect tune, irrespective of how the engine feels or sounds.

Have a look at the previous pages of this thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-engines-142/11604077-saito-fg-60r3-2.html#post11956596

scubaozy

Throttle servo is adjusted correctly, no binding of the servo either way. I will recheck my endpoints to make sure it is moving linearly. I am using mejzlik 22/10 as recommended and I did break in the engine on the ground for 2-3 liters on the ground and flew 8 times 10 mins. My experience is that engine gets too hot on the ground quickly and uneven. I measured after the flights and cylinders were much more cooler and even. Engine is running reliable and produces good power, so I thought it is safer to fly than cook it on the ground. Just want to make sure that i am not doing anything wrong.

hpergm

If you read a while back, you will see that when not in perfect tune, the engine will lean out the top cylinder and cause the bottom ones to misfire.
In the ground one solution is to heat-cycle properly all cylinders by bringing them to the top position for about 1 tank (i.e. rotating the engine on the stand = leaning out the top cylinder when mixture is rich). Then the compression rises evenly during the break in and sub-optimal running is avoided in the air; you can achieve perfect tune on the ground and risk less during a maiden.

On the other hand, flying the engine means banking the plane which then has a similar effect, albeit with some increased risk (reduced power or even a flame out). In your case, nothing to worry about; you just need to burn another 2 liters before you tune perfect, the engine does need about 5 lt....

If that does not solve the WOT issue, and the servo travel is not to blame, I would look at the airflow dynamics in your cowl. Maybe your set up creates a lot of underpressure at speed and could result in richening of the engine.. Can you post a pic?