Saito FG-60R3
#1353
My Feedback: (14)
More info about X Series lock out here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...is-Rx-lock-out
My tale of woe starts at post #9054 in this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...inning/page604
My tale of woe starts at post #9054 in this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...inning/page604
#1354
My Feedback: (14)
Anything you could tell us about your radio lockout will be very valuable. I am just now getting into the FrSky radio technology and so far I am extremely impressed. I plan to use the Redundant Bus with two batteries and two receivers. I have a Taranis Plus and X8R in a small Extra and have made a few flights. Was your lockout due to the Horus, X8R, or something else? Many thanks.
#1356
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (9)
OK, I'll admit it, I'm confused which one to use. One recommended from the Saito manual (Klotz, Morgan's), one from the engine distributor (Redline) and one from RE (Klotz, Morgan's). Ray suggests Klotz or Morgans based on availability.
For the record, I use Redline (50:1 + 1 oz Seafoam) in everything from my big Moki S250 radial to my small DLE20, and Stihl HP Ultra in all of my Stihl powered tools.
For the record, I use Redline (50:1 + 1 oz Seafoam) in everything from my big Moki S250 radial to my small DLE20, and Stihl HP Ultra in all of my Stihl powered tools.
#1359
My Feedback: (14)
That looks good. I've destroyed two Keleo exhausts and don't want to buy another. I haven't seen plumbing parts here in the USA that look like the parts you used. I assume plain copper fittings will work as well. Do you have the dimensions of the one you made? Any more info about how you did that.
#1361
Hello
Thank you for the measurment you took for me.
My exhaust made from steel tube 22mm and 90 degree tubes also 22mm. Only the final tube that drive the fumes out of the ring is made from 25mm. When you take the parts you must cut the straight tubes in right length and silversolder them all together to made the ring, after that you must silversolder the straight tube that drive fumes out and final and very carefully you must mark and drill holes to the ring so you can connect the ring with the stock flex tube, using also the L headers as seen in my photos.
If you want more infos just ask me.....
Parts taken from here: (www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/neu/shop.php?lang=de)
(4pieces) Straight tube 22mm (part number 1452) *220mm long*
(4pieces) 90 degree tube 22mm (part number 1450)
(1piece) Straight tube 25mm (part number 1552) *220mm long*
Harris
Thank you for the measurment you took for me.
My exhaust made from steel tube 22mm and 90 degree tubes also 22mm. Only the final tube that drive the fumes out of the ring is made from 25mm. When you take the parts you must cut the straight tubes in right length and silversolder them all together to made the ring, after that you must silversolder the straight tube that drive fumes out and final and very carefully you must mark and drill holes to the ring so you can connect the ring with the stock flex tube, using also the L headers as seen in my photos.
If you want more infos just ask me.....
Parts taken from here: (www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/neu/shop.php?lang=de)
(4pieces) Straight tube 22mm (part number 1452) *220mm long*
(4pieces) 90 degree tube 22mm (part number 1450)
(1piece) Straight tube 25mm (part number 1552) *220mm long*
Harris
#1363
My Feedback: (48)
Speaking of baffles, I was pretty baffled for quite awhile trying to come up with a good way to do it. Basically I cut a circle out of 1/4 inch ply to fit snugly over the cam towers, then using lite ply built the rest of it to fit inside my P47 cowl. Works good and it's easy on, easy off when doing maintenance of the engine.
Last edited by 757jonp; 03-21-2017 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Forgot to upload photos
#1364
My Feedback: (14)
My exhaust made from steel tube 22mm and 90 degree tubes also 22mm. Only the final tube that drive the fumes out of the ring is made from 25mm. When you take the parts you must cut the straight tubes in right length and silversolder them all together to made the ring, after that you must silversolder the straight tube that drive fumes out and final and very carefully you must mark and drill holes to the ring so you can connect the ring with the stock flex tube, using also the L headers as seen in my photos.
#1365
My Feedback: (14)
Speaking of baffles, I was pretty baffled for quite awhile trying to come up with a good way to do it. Basically I cut a circle out of 1/4 inch ply to fit snugly over the cam towers, then using lite ply built the rest of it to fit inside my P47 cowl. Works good and it's easy on, easy off when doing maintenance of the engine.
#1366
Yes you must first put the L headers and point them to ring. A smaller tube that you can put nside the header can show you the exact point of making holes to connect the ring with the tubes.
#1367
You know that the inside diameter of each stock tube is around 8-9mm??? I think that it is too small for this engine and at high RPM causes problems with to much back pressure of exhaust fumes making the engine orerate with higher temps. I believe that if someone measure temps and RPM with the Keleo ring and next put on the stock exhaust tubes the temps will be lower and the RPM will be increased.
#1368
So Inside diameter of Keleo ring is 0,527 (13,3mm)
You know that the inside diameter of each stock tube is around 8-9mm??? I think that it is too small for this engine and at high RPM causes problems with to much back pressure of exhaust fumes making the engine orerate with higher temps. I believe that if someone measure temps and RPM with the Keleo ring and next put on the stock exhaust tubes the temps will be lower and the RPM will be increased.
You know that the inside diameter of each stock tube is around 8-9mm??? I think that it is too small for this engine and at high RPM causes problems with to much back pressure of exhaust fumes making the engine orerate with higher temps. I believe that if someone measure temps and RPM with the Keleo ring and next put on the stock exhaust tubes the temps will be lower and the RPM will be increased.
#1369
3 out of 4.... I broke mine in using the redline but also with redline's new engine break in additive so that'd be the 4th bottle. Then I switched to Klotz. So far so good, knock on wood. No baffles, Keleo exhaust, relatively lean running...
OK, I'll admit it, I'm confused which one to use. One recommended from the Saito manual (Klotz, Morgan's), one from the engine distributor (Redline) and one from RE (Klotz, Morgan's). Ray suggests Klotz or Morgans based on availability.
For the record, I use Redline (50:1 + 1 oz Seafoam) in everything from my big Moki S250 radial to my small DLE20, and Stihl HP Ultra in all of my Stihl powered tools.
For the record, I use Redline (50:1 + 1 oz Seafoam) in everything from my big Moki S250 radial to my small DLE20, and Stihl HP Ultra in all of my Stihl powered tools.
Last edited by luckymacy; 03-22-2017 at 01:13 AM.
#1370
My Feedback: (2)
I made that same exhaust except I used all 22mm diameter parts. Ordered the parts from Krumscheid and paid around $50 delivered to the States. Make sure you order their silver solder as well and it's pretty easy to use. The flux around the solder is very important for a good flow. All you need for heat is a propane torch. I made the ring first, then laid it under the engine and checked what distance I need for the flex tubes. I think I cut them about 1 3/4" long IIRC. Then screwed the shortened tubes to the engine and marked the ring for the holes. Made the holes and soldered the flex tubes to the ring. Also, I ordered 1 stick of solder and it was barely enough for everything. I'd order 2 just to be safe.
#1371
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 410
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I finally finished up a Space Walker and we test flew it yesterday with an FG60R3 and a keleo exhaust. I've been at this for a long time but this was my first time running a radial or any multi cylinder for that matter. It started pretty easily and ran beautifully. We only put two flights on it as it was a brand new plane and we had a direct crosswind. I was impressed with both the plane and the engine. Next project is a Four Star 120 and the 30cc version of this engine. Everything is in hand, I'll probably start building tomorrow. There should be a photo attached here.
Rick H.
Rick H.
#1373
My Feedback: (6)
Kelo makes a baffle, lazer cut out of Plywood. I made a copy onto another piece of plywood just in case I move to another plane.
It doesn't have a piece to fit between the valve covers Ill fabricate something to fit there.
If i can get down in the shop and finish hacking on my F6F Hellcat to fit this engine. This will be the third engine for this plane so the fire wall looks like Swiss cheese!
Sparky
It doesn't have a piece to fit between the valve covers Ill fabricate something to fit there.
If i can get down in the shop and finish hacking on my F6F Hellcat to fit this engine. This will be the third engine for this plane so the fire wall looks like Swiss cheese!
Sparky
#1374
I finally finished up a Space Walker and we test flew it yesterday with an FG60R3 and a keleo exhaust. I've been at this for a long time but this was my first time running a radial or any multi cylinder for that matter. It started pretty easily and ran beautifully. We only put two flights on it as it was a brand new plane and we had a direct crosswind. I was impressed with both the plane and the engine. Next project is a Four Star 120 and the 30cc version of this engine. Everything is in hand, I'll probably start building tomorrow. There should be a photo attached here.
Rick H.
Rick H.
I think open engine planes like this and stearmans are the low fuss way to fly these engines with the least worries.