johndoe

Hello,

I have an old Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk 60 that is in need for a restoration. If I mounted a DLE 20cc on it would this be overkill? I flew it with a 12cc two stroke but I am tired of ruining my airplanes with glowfuel.

mschulz531

I think the real question is this: can you fit the DLE-20 on your plane?!
Even if you fit it on there, would it rip the firewall away from the fuselage when you take off?
The DLE-20 is very powerful and in general, designed for a 90 size (sport) or bigger (scale).
Another gas option you might consider is something like this one:
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/j...as-engine.html

johndoe

I thought of the JBA 15cc but it is hard to find here in Europe. I'am waiting for some more users reviews on the new NHG 17 cc which I can buy in Germany and the UK. Thanx for the respons.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Since introduction last Fall, many have posted asking "Is this engine
a good match to this xxx-xxx model?"

Some don't do their homework (read this thread), some don't understand
this engine's incredible power. Others are just new to gassers.

So maybe a very rough guideline of sorts might help some in deciding
if this DLE20cc gas engine is -or- is not a good match for their model.

This DLE20cc gas engine, is a drop in replacement for most any model
aircraft requiring a glow engine of .90 -to- 1.20 size.

So, if the specs on your model states .90 -to- 1.20, then this DLE20c
is very likely a good match!

If your model states ONLY .90, then maybe. Things like wing area, wing
loading, assembled weight, and so on will determine if it's a good match.

If your model's specs state anything less than a .90 size engine, then
most like it's NOT a good match! There are a few exceptions.

Overall, roughly speaking; this DLE20cc will be good for many model
aircraft requiring a glow engine of a range of between .90 -to- 1.20 size,
and weighing between 7 lbs -to- around abouts 20 lbs.

For 3D'ing; 7-9 lbs but the closer you get to 9 lbs, the slower pull-outs
from a hover, will be.

General sport flying; 9-13 lbs (roughly speaking), and still be spirited.

Scale flying; 10-20 lbs, but as you exceed 14 lbs it may be a bit sluggish.
A long take-off may be needed, a large wing span WILL be helpfull!

In ALL cases, reinforcing the firewall for the stresses of a gas engine
is a very wise move!!!

One other issue to consider in matching this DLE20cc gas engine to your
model will be prop -to- ground clearance. The sweet spot of engine
torque/thrust for this engine is with a 17" prop. Yes, DLE states the
prop range as 14x10 - 17x6, but the 17" props are right in it's power band.

That brings up issues of ground clearance on some potential selections of
models. Some warbirds (and other models) may have issues of prop -to- ground
clearance. If your chosen model states .90 -to- 1.20 then you should be OK.

If you can stuff this DLE20cc into your model, but have ground clearance
issues, then a 3 or 4 bladed prop may be required, or go with a smaller
prop.

This DLE20cc gas engine has more power than a CRRC Pro 26 or a Saito 1.25
(Saito FG-20/gasser) and is a drop in replacement for most any model
aircraft requiring a glow engine of .90 -to- 1.20 size.

Proceed accordingly!

captinjohn

a1pcfixer....when are you going to give the DLE20 Gasser a rest??? Hope you not addicted to it. Ha!

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

When did you buy one?
Ooops, you don't (yet) own one, correct?.[]

mschulz531

Why should he give it a rest? His advice and contributions to this forum are top notch!

Keep at it a1pcfixer; I agree that we should start a club for buying DLE engines from "disgruntled" owners!

TimBle

I have found that most of the gassers that don;t run properly have a faulty spoark plug fitted.
First time I strated my DLE 20 it run poorly. I changed the plug to a NGK CM6 as per advice in this thread and it has been faultless since.

I imparted the same advice to a clb mate running in a RCGF32 and again, plug changed, different engine.
The same at a recent airshow. 3 hours of flippng by an "experienced" modeller and apparent expert on engines and a much less expereinced fellow gandered over and told him to set the spark plug gap. Problem solved, engine started.

So when folk tell me X years of experience it means nothing and only serves to distract from the real issues and clouds effectivce problem solving.

Gassers, atomised fuel + oxygen +spark =. Easy as that. Air Fuel mixture can be set once the engine is running.
If its not firing then one of the above is not present.

Some people luck on using glow engine methods to run a gasser and once its running they think they've done the right thing.

Reading this thread has been a huge help

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Jody recently revealed one of his jewels of knowledge about plug gaps.
Set your NGK/CM-6 spark plug gap at .024. Tends to help in some cases.

Stock setting by some is .020

RiverLarry

good morning A1pcfixer

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

This hobby is not for you mate!

I have had 4-5 deadsticks on the Funtana 125 and all I can say is this plane will land itself!

But if 1 deadstick = engine is trash maybe you should switch to electric cars ...

e-george

Logged about 60 flights with my DLE 20 powered Phoenix EDGE 540. Powerfull and reliable is still getting better and better. Only 4 deadsticks UNEVENTFULL(should have been more carefull with the carb needles). Perfect match for theEDGE. 17x6Turnigy wooden prop, CM6 sparkplug since the first flight. Total dry weight 4,230 gramms.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

mschulz531,

Thanks!
This week I'm doing good......[8D]
next couple weeks somebody'll likely want to burn me at the stake![]

RiverLarry,

You haven't called...don't have anything waterproof to fly?[&o]
(raining like crazy for him & me)

w1nd6urfa,
"But if 1 deadstick = engine is trash maybe you should switch to electric cars ..."
(OUCH! Don't think he'll give you any disgruntled DLE20 users discount)<lol>

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Or maybe he'll trade me all his engines for my nephew's leccy car !

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Not a wide spread problem. Somewhat rare.

If after you remove the idle stop screw, then set your idle from transmitter,
AND can kill engine from transmitter throttle settings, then you do NOT have that problem.

A fast idle, throttle completely closed, and can't kill in some cases is where the
butterfly plate for the throttle is not closing competely due to it not being centered correctly.

You should be fine.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Some folks would think these engines are manufactured by Rolls Royce.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

I had a very minor high speed miss in one of my DLE30s. Changed the gap to .025 from .020 and miss went away. I had never messed with the gap on a CM-6 much. I should have known this would work as for just about every engine I have ever worked on, within reason, if there is enough voltage available, wider gaps run better.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

A dab of common sense tells ya that's true. Look at what Stihl, Echo, MTD, and others suggest for their leaf blowers,
trimmers, chainsaw's, etc.

A wider gap=more dwell time [longer spark duration]=better burn of the fuel air mix.

During the late 70's and early 80's, GM had varying gaps from .045 - .080+
Proved to be service fiasco as many that sat too long often wouldn't start. Dealerships let upper GM know in a hurry!
Wider is good, just don't over do it.

For those 'lurkers' here, we're mainly chatting about the NGK/CM-6 spark plug.
If you're using something else, gap per mfg's recommendation.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Why?

If it's an Rcexl ignition it will throw an arc across a .030" gap at at least 10,000 RPM, the spark plug has very little to do with it. For our engines and the plugs we use, use the smallest gap that gets the job done so the igniton only works as hard as it has to, but use a big enough gap to do it.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Smart thinking Jody, but on the other hand, the smaller the gap, the more chance of one small peice of carbon wedging between the electrode and shutting you down...at the most in-oppertune time. As the saying goes though..."There is risk in everything."

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Why what?

Why make the situation conditional (ie Rcexl)?
If our plugs make little difference, then why not include the DLE/3 plug?
How about the Rcxl ICM-6 iridium?
Still apply?

Might do better to state the range of allowed gap.
.020 -to- .030 about right?

TimBle

wider gap does allow for a stronger discharge and a hotter spark which improves combustion. Activation energy is whats its about. The stronger the flame front starts, the higher theaverage  cylinder pressure (BMEP).

Lots of tests on this hence spark gaps are quite critical.

It will not prevent firing or cause dead sticks if the gap is slightly too small but too lare a gap will create a weak spark which leads to unreliability.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Basically right, but too big a gap also gets the two electrodes out of their parallel plane. One edge is close/other edge is far apart.

But, this is much to do about nuffin.....or like splitting hairs!

Look at this observation;

THAT ought to stir up some energetic debate!

abreimeris

My Feedback: (18)

Who is having a problem with spark from the plug? This engine is by far one of the best mysef and other have witnessed. From what I gathered on this thread, don't see it as an issue. Just thought I would like to share.