~~Sig Kadet Brotherhood~~.
#1676
...
Saw on another thread where a guy was using biscuits on a stick build. He mad some 1/64 birch ply half biscuits. he attached a hinge slot cutting machine to a jig and slotted all the parts for the biscuits. Might be better than the million gussets I felt were needed for all those butt joints in a stick fuse like the SR. I did not bookmark it and the search function on this site is horrid.
If I find the thread I will link it.
Ken
Saw on another thread where a guy was using biscuits on a stick build. He mad some 1/64 birch ply half biscuits. he attached a hinge slot cutting machine to a jig and slotted all the parts for the biscuits. Might be better than the million gussets I felt were needed for all those butt joints in a stick fuse like the SR. I did not bookmark it and the search function on this site is horrid.
If I find the thread I will link it.
Ken
Richard
#1677
Thanks richard that is the post. The poster also did some strength test of the parts and it appears that the strangers (?) are actually stronger.
I have been sitting here adding gussets to the ribs of a stab and elevator that are all curved. I am beginning to hate gussets, but I could fall in love with biscuits.
Ken
I have been sitting here adding gussets to the ribs of a stab and elevator that are all curved. I am beginning to hate gussets, but I could fall in love with biscuits.
Ken
#1678
The very next post shows a fuse jig that can be used for stick or slab sided construction that I like.Shhh O NOT tell Tom I said that. He might not believe me anymore when I make a snide remark. And I do have a reputation to maintain.
Ken
Ken
#1681
When I made my SR I went with rubber bands.
I later converted it to bolt on. I add reinforcements to the front where the wing would attach via 2 dowels. I carried a new one peice former down to bottom structure. And added nut plate aft that had structure tying in at the bottom. I may have over engineered the mods, but I feel very safe with them.
It is now looking at even more mods. Some structure to accommodate a 1.25" aluminum wing tube in the bottom. I will just blend in a cover plate instead of the wing on the top.
It is a lot easier to mod during initial construction,, but these are big planes, big roomy fuses. So no stopping me.
Ken
I later converted it to bolt on. I add reinforcements to the front where the wing would attach via 2 dowels. I carried a new one peice former down to bottom structure. And added nut plate aft that had structure tying in at the bottom. I may have over engineered the mods, but I feel very safe with them.
It is now looking at even more mods. Some structure to accommodate a 1.25" aluminum wing tube in the bottom. I will just blend in a cover plate instead of the wing on the top.
It is a lot easier to mod during initial construction,, but these are big planes, big roomy fuses. So no stopping me.
Ken
#1682
Hey Guys.....been watching just not communicating much. Still horsing around with the STOL LT25 on the weekends....to see the latest shenanigans just click on the BigTeeEldorado link in my signature.
But the real reason I'm chiming in here is that I am sure somewhere in this vast library of knowledge there is a drawing of a simple gear door setup for mechanical retracts. I'm working on a concept for a box fuselage P38 I would like to put retracts in and I don't like anything I have been able to find so far. The key here is KISS !!! (Keep it simple Simon) Any help ??
But the real reason I'm chiming in here is that I am sure somewhere in this vast library of knowledge there is a drawing of a simple gear door setup for mechanical retracts. I'm working on a concept for a box fuselage P38 I would like to put retracts in and I don't like anything I have been able to find so far. The key here is KISS !!! (Keep it simple Simon) Any help ??
#1684
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This is my old beat-up LT-40. I'm going to put canard wings on it like a Wren 460, so this is how it flies now, it takes full back stick to get it to fly like this. I'm hoping the canards will let it do it with much less back stick. Sorry I didn't think to fly it with low power, but with low power I have to fly with the stick full back, but I have to keep the wings flatter to the ground.
I'll have the canards on it in the next couple of days. I'm thinking the should be 0° to the stab, any one want to comment on that?
http://youtu.be/IiQjcgyi3uI
[URL]http://youtu.be/IiQjcgyi3uI[/URL]
I'll have the canards on it in the next couple of days. I'm thinking the should be 0° to the stab, any one want to comment on that?
http://youtu.be/IiQjcgyi3uI
[URL]http://youtu.be/IiQjcgyi3uI[/URL]
Last edited by soarrich; 09-15-2014 at 04:38 PM.
#1685
Hey Guys.....been watching just not communicating much. Still horsing around with the STOL LT25 on the weekends....to see the latest shenanigans just click on the BigTeeEldorado link in my signature.
But the real reason I'm chiming in here is that I am sure somewhere in this vast library of knowledge there is a drawing of a simple gear door setup for mechanical retracts. I'm working on a concept for a box fuselage P38 I would like to put retracts in and I don't like anything I have been able to find so far. The key here is KISS !!! (Keep it simple Simon) Any help ??
But the real reason I'm chiming in here is that I am sure somewhere in this vast library of knowledge there is a drawing of a simple gear door setup for mechanical retracts. I'm working on a concept for a box fuselage P38 I would like to put retracts in and I don't like anything I have been able to find so far. The key here is KISS !!! (Keep it simple Simon) Any help ??
http://sonictronics.com/xcart/home.php?cat=321
These hinges make it pretty simple, and they come with a spring hinge that opens the doors, and another one that the wheel will close the with. Can't get much simpler than these.
#1686
http://sonictronics.com/xcart/home.php?cat=321
These hinges make it pretty simple, and they come with a spring hinge that opens the doors, and another one that the wheel will close the with. Can't get much simpler than these.
These hinges make it pretty simple, and they come with a spring hinge that opens the doors, and another one that the wheel will close the with. Can't get much simpler than these.
#1687
#1688
Does anyone have the electric motor mount for the SIG Kadet Senior Sport that they are not going to use? Without going into details, I need to replace mine and SIG says they will not have the part for at least another two months. Flying season will be over here by then.
I am willing to pay a reasonable price including shipping to 46151.
Thanks in advance,
-Jeff
I am willing to pay a reasonable price including shipping to 46151.
Thanks in advance,
-Jeff
#1689
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
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Jeff, I recently read where someone used a Great Planes Adjustable motor mount. You might take a look and see if that'd work for your application. I'm considering using something like this for my EP senior kit I'm about to build.
http://www.gpdealera.com/cgi-bin/wga...pgm?I=GPMG1255
Speaking of kits, I have ordered mine! Can't wait to get started on the build. Prior to placing the order looking at the Sig site, I read a recent review by a gentleman by the name of Ed McBurney from Montrose, Colorado. Does anyone know if Ed participates in this group? According to the review, Ed has built upwards of 75 Seniors, trained folks with them, then once the students solo, he gives them the plane! Now, in my opinion, that's really advancing the hobby!
http://www.gpdealera.com/cgi-bin/wga...pgm?I=GPMG1255
Speaking of kits, I have ordered mine! Can't wait to get started on the build. Prior to placing the order looking at the Sig site, I read a recent review by a gentleman by the name of Ed McBurney from Montrose, Colorado. Does anyone know if Ed participates in this group? According to the review, Ed has built upwards of 75 Seniors, trained folks with them, then once the students solo, he gives them the plane! Now, in my opinion, that's really advancing the hobby!
#1692
Gotcha all logged in here though, #166 is all yours. And here's the SIG Kadet Brotherhood, as I've got it today (3 columns):
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[TR]
[TD="align: right"]38[/TD]
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[TD]FloridaBeachFlyr[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD="align: right"]45[/TD]
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[TD]TimHendrix[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]105[/TD]
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[TD="align: right"]165[/TD]
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[TD="align: right"]47[/TD]
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[TD]FLAPSDOWN[/TD]
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[TD]rccrasher65[/TD]
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[TD]sbrillha[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
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[TD="align: right"]50[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Hrannar[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]110[/TD]
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[TD]Mike Gretz[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
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[TD="align: right"]51[/TD]
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[TD]skyrat71[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
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[TD="align: right"]52[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Ken Kehlet[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]112[/TD]
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[TD]lumppi[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
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[TD="align: right"]53[/TD]
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[TD]oldfartpilot[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]113[/TD]
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[TD]bchapman[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
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[TD="align: right"]54[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Soaring Steve[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]114[/TD]
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[TD]scoooper[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
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[TD="align: right"]55[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]freefall2907[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]115[/TD]
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[TD]Jolly Popper[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]56[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]fix-n-fly[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]116[/TD]
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[TD]308jockey[/TD]
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#1694
#1695
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Canard
I finished adding canards to my LT-40, I hope to test fly it tomorrow. I used a CF tube to tie the two moveable parts together. The linkage is crude, but it should work. I fly this with a Futaba 10C so I put the canard on a Logic Switch, anytime I have my "E" switch thrown and I have less than 30% power the canard deflects downward. I'll have to experiment to get the amount of throw and the power setting that it deflects at.
Last edited by soarrich; 09-22-2014 at 08:38 PM.
#1697
Soarrich, what a fun mod !
I have an idea or two that I never get around to building..But I am glad you put this together..Hope to see video or hear how it changes things !
thanks for posting...
I have an idea or two that I never get around to building..But I am glad you put this together..Hope to see video or hear how it changes things !
thanks for posting...
#1698
What a wonderful imagination you've got - I love it!!! Can't wait to get the flight report - gonna be something truly different.
Best of luck with this!!
Best of luck with this!!
#1699
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Issaquah, WA
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Been reading this thread for sometime now, really enjoy all the information. Add me to the list if you would!
I have a Kadet LT.40 that I built and learned to fly on starting about a year ago, so still very new to it all. As the weather turns and the building season arrives I have another Kadet LT .40 to build. I plan on making it as a tail dragger with a bolt on wing. Dual aileron servos and powered with a Evolution Gas engine. My mentor in this hobby has the 10 cc Evolution on his Kadet. I will probably do the same but am looking at the 15cc as well. As I look at the variety of options with the tail wheel design, I kind of like the idea of having a servo mounted in the rear just for the tail wheel. Being new please chime in, but can't I just connect it to the rudder channel with an extension and a Y harness and reverse one or the other if needed? Would it be better just to leave the one servo in the tray and run cables to the tail wheel?
We were at the field Friday and watched a Kadet senior flying. It was windy and the guy actually side slipped it in to land, it was beautiful flying.
Anyway, thanks for all this great information. I don't plan on starting my build for another month so I have plenty of time to keep researching and evaluating. It's almost as much fun as flying.
Todd
I have a Kadet LT.40 that I built and learned to fly on starting about a year ago, so still very new to it all. As the weather turns and the building season arrives I have another Kadet LT .40 to build. I plan on making it as a tail dragger with a bolt on wing. Dual aileron servos and powered with a Evolution Gas engine. My mentor in this hobby has the 10 cc Evolution on his Kadet. I will probably do the same but am looking at the 15cc as well. As I look at the variety of options with the tail wheel design, I kind of like the idea of having a servo mounted in the rear just for the tail wheel. Being new please chime in, but can't I just connect it to the rudder channel with an extension and a Y harness and reverse one or the other if needed? Would it be better just to leave the one servo in the tray and run cables to the tail wheel?
We were at the field Friday and watched a Kadet senior flying. It was windy and the guy actually side slipped it in to land, it was beautiful flying.
Anyway, thanks for all this great information. I don't plan on starting my build for another month so I have plenty of time to keep researching and evaluating. It's almost as much fun as flying.
Todd
Last edited by T-47; 09-24-2014 at 09:49 PM.
#1700
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Flight report on Wren 460 style canards.
OK, this is the flight report, I wanted to post a video, but I forgot to take the camera, I'll try the video Sunday.
I set the canard at 0° to the stab, so with the canard turned off I took off. You can't tell that it's even there until you slow down, at high angle of attack I was able to stall the plane. My normal set-up is to set the low rate elevator so you can not stall the airplane if you have no power and slowly feed in up elevator as the plane slows. This set-up allows you to fly as slow as possible without any danger of stalling. Being able to stall it now tells me that at high AoA even with the moveable portion of the canard at 0° it's making some lift.
With the Logic switch set to deploy the canard's elevator down at 35% power setting I made a straight fly-by slowly backing off the power until the canard's elevator dropped, (it's either up or down, it does NOT follow the elevator of the stab.), it was kind of a non-event, it seemed as if nothing happen. As I continued to slow the plane it slowed to about where it's minimum flying speed was pre-canard, maybe a tiny bit slower, not much slower if any, but I only had about 1/3 the amount of up elevator in as normal. I played with the power setting that the canard deployed at, anything above 47% power the plane pitched-up very slightly when the canard deployed. I also played with the amount of down elevator on the canard, 30° seems about the best setting.
I'll do more testing and video it Sunday, but my first impression is it works, but it's not the "Holy Grail" of STOL. I can see how if you where in the plane you would probably feel more comfortable flying with the yoke pulled back 1/3 of the way, rather than all the back to your chest.
I set the canard at 0° to the stab, so with the canard turned off I took off. You can't tell that it's even there until you slow down, at high angle of attack I was able to stall the plane. My normal set-up is to set the low rate elevator so you can not stall the airplane if you have no power and slowly feed in up elevator as the plane slows. This set-up allows you to fly as slow as possible without any danger of stalling. Being able to stall it now tells me that at high AoA even with the moveable portion of the canard at 0° it's making some lift.
With the Logic switch set to deploy the canard's elevator down at 35% power setting I made a straight fly-by slowly backing off the power until the canard's elevator dropped, (it's either up or down, it does NOT follow the elevator of the stab.), it was kind of a non-event, it seemed as if nothing happen. As I continued to slow the plane it slowed to about where it's minimum flying speed was pre-canard, maybe a tiny bit slower, not much slower if any, but I only had about 1/3 the amount of up elevator in as normal. I played with the power setting that the canard deployed at, anything above 47% power the plane pitched-up very slightly when the canard deployed. I also played with the amount of down elevator on the canard, 30° seems about the best setting.
I'll do more testing and video it Sunday, but my first impression is it works, but it's not the "Holy Grail" of STOL. I can see how if you where in the plane you would probably feel more comfortable flying with the yoke pulled back 1/3 of the way, rather than all the back to your chest.