Flight Risk

My Feedback: (1)

The easiest way to find an acceptable engine is to look for glow engine equivalents. I would search for .46 glow equivalent such as these.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...v-46-glow.html
HK offers these with 3 different kv ratings, 420, 550, and 670. The lower numbers should turn a larger prop slower than the higher kv, and have different amp/esc requirements.
You could probably get by with the .32 size, or blow you wings off with the .60 size.
You can also search Rimfire and other brands.

rcflyer16

Thanks guys!! Great suggestions for a guy who can use all assistance he can find. I will post later how I come out. Billy

TomCrump

My Kadet Sport flew well on a .32 sized motor, but came to life when I installed a .52 sized electric. My kit built Senior flies well, but is over powered, flying on a .91 4 stroke.

acdii

If you think thats something, you should see a 1/5th Cub with a Saito 100 on the nose and a 16x8 prop. An F-15 has nothing on it! LOL

bobsrc

Don't forget the Sig RC Fun Fly coming up at Hazel's airport June7-9 and the control line Fun Fly June 14-15. Go to sigmfg.com for details.

Captcrunch44

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

How many Rascal 168s were present? They have to be an attention getter.

acdii

One, and Crunch literally flew a wheel off his Rascal. I have video of it, but he landed so far away I didn't get the actual landing, which was above par for the Crunch! I personally think he is slipping, he didn't crash a single plane while I was there.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Well he is getting older....

acdii

And still hasn't learned to use sunscreen. How those legs doing Mike?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

The right leg is doing real well and the OEM left one is holding up so I can't complain. Now if I can keep the rain from leaking in the back door and get the city to something about their line backing up into my and blowing toilet rings things will be great! At least I haven't had to dodge any cranes like they did in Dallas. We have been getting a piece of that wind and it has been something. It rattle the garage doors so hard the automatic light comes on.

acdii

Here's the video

Captcrunch44

acdii

Sunscreen is your friend! LOL Learned that lesson when I was 11, and Never want to repeat it.

Captcrunch44

acdii

I don't know what I will do with mine yet. Too many other projects on the board and no room to work on it. I may strip it and use the electronics in the Extra 330 they came out of. Would make for a rather large weathervane though.

Captcrunch44

acdii

I don't even know what the right price would be. Didn't know you were still interested, or would have negotied while I had it there.

Captcrunch44

Hydro Junkie

Now how can you beat that, he's willing to travel. Most of the guys I deal with, in the boating world, don't travel unless they are going to a specific event.

JimO

My Feedback: (7)

We check the controls, fine tune the engine, range check the radio, however, ever check the RX on off switch to make sure it "Clicks" both on and off. Had flown this plane a few times and guess was lucky. After picking up the pieces and started trouble shooting, had all the service plugged into receiver using same battery and switch, all seemed to be working till I smacked the bench and all stopped, smacked again and RX light blinked on and then off, bad RX hmmm. Nope tried another receive r same thing happened. Wait on off switch dies not click on, slides over but no positive on lock. Played with switch and slightest movement it looses power.

I have checked all my new switches and all positive click on and off. Added this check to preflight. No click, no fly.

About to order the Husky to replace, anyone here have this plane and your thoughts.

Jim

aspeed

I have no enlightening recommendations for models, sorry for your loss. I have seen a few switches go. I think it is from the dreaded black wire syndrome. The negative wire goes green/black after a few years with older nicads. It will get right into the switch and connectors. I have a transmitter like that too.

Hydro Junkie

Black wire syndrome sucks, no other word for it. What is actually happening is the wire has corroded inside the insulation, making it useless. Someone told me, several years ago, that the only way to avoid black wire syndrome is to replace the wires on your servos every year or two. Obviously, you can't do that with a switch, so you replace the switch assembly as well. A switch normally won't get black wire, other than in the wires themselves. What will happen is the contacts will get burned by the electrical arching or flatten from sliding the switch on and off. Over time, they just get to the point that they don't let current flow through the charred metal. As for a switch that won't positively lock, that's wear on the latching mechanism, usually just a spring. It gets weak and stops holding the contacts together. Like any other mechanism that has moving parts or electricity flowing through it, it will wear out eventually.

JimO

My Feedback: (7)

This was a brand new switch, three wire universal with charge jack. No black wire on this switch. Usually this is from silver plated wire that had not cured well before extruding the covering. Took switch apart and the spring mechanism that is the positive lock was flat. Live and learn.

Jom

acdii

cheap chinese junk.