dacaur

yea, its normal to have to trim an RC car to go in a straight line when you first get it.

This is also normal. There is really no "standard" for forward and reverse for ESC's, especially brushless. So you can either use the reversing switch, or swap any two motor wires. Which you do depends on the ESC... If you have a double pump brake/reverse, you cant use the reversing switch, or you will have brakes in reverse and not forward. If you brakes are working fine than you dont need to worry about this... if you brakes dont work in forward but they work in reverse, you will want to switch the reversing switch, than swap any two motor wires, or some ESC's give you option to reverse motor direction (either one works as well as the other)

That would be called a drag brake. The stock ESC doesnt have a drag brake (or if it does its really weak). Your brushless ESC probably has an option for one, but I only find drag brakes useful for rock crawling... I want my slash to coast if I let off the gas... That's why you have brakes. The stock ESC has a double pump brake/reverse, when you are going forward and then hit reverse it first applies the brake, you then have to go back to neutral and hit reverse again to actualy go backward.

Normal. I have a couple preload collars on mine to stiffen the suspension a little, a large on eachback shock and a medium on each front. You can also change the shock oil if you find it too soft. Body rubbing is also normal.. you can raise the body mounts a little if it bugs you.

I would add a little EXPO to the steering.. you want negative expo on a futaba radio, to soften the steering inputs around center. The advanatage to using EXPO instead of dual rates, is that with expo you keep a nice tight steering radius when you fully turn the wheel for when you need it, without being super sensative to small wheel movments.

DARKWAV

Well at least for Castle brushless systems you need to have the Reverse position selected on Futaba radios. Actually Castle Creation's User Guide for their Mamba/Sidewinder brushless systems has a big note that states as much:

"If you are using a Futaba or Futaba OEM brand transmitter, you will need to set the transmitter’s throttle channel direction to the REVERSE (Rev) position. This is either an external micro switch on the transmitter or an option available within the computer programming of the transmitter’s throttle channel."

I believe it is the brushes contacting the commutator on a brushed motor that causes drag and a braking effect with the throttle in a neutral position. That plus whatever other resistance/friction is present througout the driveline including energy losses between the tire and ground and through suspension travel. Hmmm I suppose the magnetic fields in the motors will also add resistance. Brushless motors don't have that mechanical drag caused by brushes since it has no brushes, so it can actually roll out further on neutral before all the other factors are able to stop the truck from rolling. Most brushless ESC allow you to dial-in "drag brake" so the motor will provide the amount of braking you specify with the throtte in neutral.

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Another note on brakes: The brakes on the Slash are not as strong as on other electric vehicles I've driven, even using the same motor and ESC. I think this has to do with the added mass - this is substantially larger and heavier than a Stampede or Rustler.

bnangle

Great thanks for the input.I got some really good points there.I just realized and forgot to add before, When I am in driving forward and I go to reverse nothing happens.I have to keep hitting the trigger.I think something may be off with the throttle settings but I am going to look at it later.I am going to post pics of my slash now if I can

bnangle

Great thanks for the input.I got some really good points there.I just realized and forgot to add before, When I am in driving forward and I go to reverse nothing happens.I have to keep hitting the trigger.I think something may be off with the throttle settings but I am going to look at it later.I am going to post pics of my slash now if I can

bnangle

the pics didnt line up how i wanted but they are there.

dacaur

so, wheelies with the brushless motor? if you are going forward, and push the trigger to reverse, trhe truck should slow a LOT... you will notice it... if not, then either something is wrong with the ESC, or your radio is set up wrong. Go into the end point adjustment screen on your radio (EPA) and make sure forward and reverse are both at 100%.....

bnangle

Dacaur, Actually I installed the wheeliebar mainly because most of the you tube videos on the Slash with brushless and lipo batteries were doing wheelies the whole time.I am not really a fan of wheelies in fact I liked how the stock rear bumper looks.I already have reinstalled instead of the wheelie bar.How do they do the wheelies though.Mine has even come close to a wheelie.Also I was wondering if anyone knew the best spur gear pinion combo for what I have setup right now.I have the stock spur gear and the opitional pinion the slash comes with I think it is 23t?Thanks Brian

Redvanmafia

Not bad!

dacaur

try putting the 19t pinion back on if you cant do wheelies, you need to gear down, you will lose speed, but not much, and gain power (acceleration) and run time... the wheelbase on the slash is a few inches longer than a rustler or stampede.

bnangle

I am not really a wheelie guy but I want the right gearing for fast semi-level dirt field driving.I really enjoyed the slash on a local baseball field.Dust was everywhere and I like the rear end slides around turns.Its like the traxxas video on the real ones.

simplecj

I wonder if you could mount that front bumper on a Rustler?? That'd be sweet! Apparently there's a bunch of parts on this truck that are compatible with the Rustler/pede. In fact it almost looks like the only difference is in the chassis. Tranny's the same and so are the arms, shock towers, suspension, front bulkhead... So this is almlost like another addition to the Rustler Stampede duo.... Now it's a trio!!! Mix and match, I love it!

Also... wouldn't the Slash look a bit better with bigger tires like some Talons or Mashers?? That big fat body just makes the tires look so tiny...

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

You can put bigger tires on it but you would need to trim the body.

bnangle

I recently noticed my spur gear wobbles as it goes round and seems warped.I removed the spur gear to find one of the frition pads was broke.How I donot know.I called traxxas up and they are sending me out a new spurgear and slipper clutch.They dont have the stock spurgear but the tech rep. said hes sending an 83t spurgear and a 16t pinion for me to use with the brushlees setup.He said its a great combination he uses on his slash and his electronics stay cool.I was very impressed with the traxxas technical support.It was no hassle and they are more than happy to send the parts I need.

I setup up 3pm radio the right way and I have no brake issues anymore.stops on a dime.

dacaur

its not the big fat body that makes the tires look tiny, its the tiny tires..... they really are pretty small, and way narrow....

bnangle

Does anyone know if they make metal spur gears or are they always plastic?Also I want to order a good lipo battery,Any ideas?Thanks

P.S. I am still trying to figure out the best gear combo for my slash.I am about to install 16t pinion on a 83t spur gear as per aTraxxas reps reccomendation.

crazysavage

I dont know of a metal spur gear that would work with the slash's slipper clutch but if you get the mesh perfect and make sure the three screws are locktighted and the gear is seated all the way down, this will reduce the wobble in the gear. Use a slip of paper, I like to use a reciept paper. push down with moderate pressure against the spur and tighten the screws back and forth a little at a time until tight. Now, spin the gear and look and feel for high spots in the gear. If you feel any amount of binding on the pinion, move the motor away from the spur gear slightly and then retighten. This should give you plenty of gear life. I run 11.1 v lipo and on asphalt and get very good life. If you get a lipo battery make sure you have a good balancing charger or external balancer. The protek batteriers are holding up well. Try to get 25c 7.4 but 20 c will do. I like the evo25 battery from flight power but it costs alot more. As for gearing, I run the mamba max 7700 and much lower gearing is needed for that motor so I cant comment on the vxl. I keep a temp gun handy and check often. Also try to get your battery at 4000mah or higher.

simplecj

I got a 90T spur for my rustler that "wobbles". It seems like the center hole with the bearing isn't centered or something. It works ok, but it's noisier than the stock 83T spur. I think I need a new one...

crazysavage

I found something
http://www.hot-racing.com/?partnumber=TE886H&c=416

Alpha Male

My Feedback: (11)

I just loaded my diff with Bad Horsie Diff Locking Grease (I love this stuff):

http://www.badhorsie.com/products/diff-lock-grease.html

Whew! I hope I never have to open that transmission again. [sm=stupid.gif] I can already see a big reduction of wheel spin since the diff does not completely unload every time I turn in the parking lot. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

mercerbeef

i thought the jato gears fit in the slash? cuz they metal gears for the jato anyone know?

dacaur

OK, first, you dont want to buy anything from hot racing... poor quality, even worse quality control.
Second, you dont want metal on metal gears unless they are steel, you never want any type of metal gear meshing with an aluminum gear, as the aluminum will wear fast. An aluminum pinion is fine on a plastic spur, but not with an aluminum or steel gear... Learn to set the slipper properly or take your finger off the throttle when you land from jumps and the plastic spur will last a long time....

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

Just curious if you are making the statement about Hot Racing from personal experience or from hearsay? I have used Hot Racing parts on several vehicles without any problems. I have had more problems with bad parts from Integy.

But I will agree he needs to learn to set the gear mesh properly or he will keep stripping the spur.

dacaur

Hearsay... Lots and lots of hearsay.... I have personaly seen a few of their products.. the machine work is terrible, and they have die cut threads where they should be machined...

VVRC

Hey All,
My first experience with the Slash has been GREAT!!...of course, I can't drive for crap but other than that all is well....except, somehow I managed to lose a bottom spring retainer on the front shock. I was wondering if it would be okay to glue them on with a drop of CA....or is this some kind of "fluck" thing that only happens to me..[&:]