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C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video

Old 09-11-2013, 08:02 AM
  #3276
afterburner
 
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You'd probably want to T them off so you don't have a lateral balance issue especially if you have to land early for some reason and one side is empty while the other is full.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:15 AM
  #3277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afterburner View Post
You'd probably want to T them off so you don't have a lateral balance issue especially if you have to land early for some reason and one side is empty while the other is full.
Thanks for reply, don't think lateral will be an issue in case of early landing.
Tanks are so close to center line.
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:00 PM
  #3278
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I have a classic BA flash rtf that I've flown and a nib BA ultra flash. I'm wanting to switch to the ultra flash and was wondering how hard it is just to switch out the wings to the ultra flash or if it would be better to just build the new flash?
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:38 PM
  #3279
Dave Wilshere
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I'd start fresh. There is a small chance it will match (no harm trying) but its unlikely

Dw
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:56 PM
  #3280
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I modified a Classic to the Ultra configuration. While it isn't exactly easy it isn't all that hard either. You should plan on changing ALL pin sockets and ALL bolt threaded inserts. I did actually have one wing threaded insert that lined up, the other three had to be ground out and repositioned. ALL three pin sockets had to be ground out and replaced.

IMHO it's worth it to get the new flap system/wing.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:11 PM
  #3281
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Midas,
The feed of the 2 Saddle tanks are T-eed and it feeds into the vent of the Main tank , feed of main tank to hopper/UAT.
The vents of the 2 Saddle tanks again T-eed and go to the overflow.
This way the saddle tanks feed the main tank and deplete together so theres no imbalance. Main tank feeds the hopper/UAT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midas D. View Post
Saddle tank set up as fuel tank question

When using the saddel tanks as fuel tank, how do you guy's route your fuel line?

My thoughts where, hopper/uat to main tank then to saddle1 and then saddle2 and then to vent....
To me this looks like the way to go, but looking at the Carf site the picture looks like they use an T-conection and drain and vent the saddles at the same time??????

Bit confused here....
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:17 AM
  #3282
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Just back from JetPower Germany,

Met Dave in real life witch was really nice,

Got an bag full off klunks,hoses,festo couplings etc etc etc so let the tank project begin :-)

Last edited by Midas D.; 09-14-2013 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:45 AM
  #3283
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A question guys,
are people fitting the inserts under the retract legs?
I'm asking because looking at someone else's UF upside down I noticed he hadn't fitted them!

Martin
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:52 AM
  #3284
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Well I've had a go at trimming and fitting these moulded covers but seems to me they about 5mm to deep!
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:49 PM
  #3285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart (Ham) View Post
Well I've had a go at trimming and fitting these moulded covers but seems to me they about 5mm to deep!
Sorted it now!

Last edited by Mart (Ham); 09-16-2013 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:27 AM
  #3286
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Default Finally!!!!

Finally got my Ultra Flash wings with 2 successful flights this Sunday. The very first U-Flash I've seen fly was mine I used the setup from post 3204, with a little more throw on ailerons & compensated with expo. I also had to add a few clicks of up elevator in the clean config, & more down elevator mixed into the T/O & Full flap configs. I find balanced at 232mm back (beginning of gear bay mould line) it did not appear to be neutral, so I plan on moving my cg back some after a few more flights. Landing appeared to be really slow, that was with a 10kt cross wind. I bounced it 2nd flight because I was trying to err on the side of caution & carry more speed, then to avoid a 2nd bounce I held it off until it settled & it was at least as slow as my P120 (not the lightest) powered Boomerang Sprint. My gear springs appear to be really weak, & I believe they did not extend the strut 100% on my 2nd flight causing my gear to hang up about 1/2 retracted. I could not replicate the failure on the ground which leads me to believe it didn't extend due to the relative wind resistance, but I'm not sure. I have the Behotec C-36 w Down & Locked elec conversion. I also see a P-140 in my near future. The 100 works, but I would LOVE more T/O & vertical authority. I used up quite a bit of runway to get airborne, but with that being said, it was the sweetest rotating plane I have ever flown, VERY STOKED on this one!
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:44 AM
  #3287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midas D. View Post
Just back from JetPower Germany,

Met Dave in real life witch was really nice,

Got an bag full off klunks,hoses,festo couplings etc etc etc so let the tank project begin :-)
Ed

Good to meet you, thanks for the business...you just kept adding, Rob was very happy with your bag full!

It was a good JP for meeting people, strangest again was a US guy stationed in Germany using my Helicopter DVD set to learn choppers...seems he was surprised to find me at a jet show!

Dw
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:07 AM
  #3288
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Hi
Again apologies if this is already mentioned earlier in the thread...its a long one now and every search take a hour or two...although I'm starting to familiarize myself with it.

Questions:

1. Front under cart. Im using Intairco wheels/struts.. did you guys have to shorten the strut ( ie vertical ) or did you lengthen the rear hole? Maybe what is the strut /wheel length from the block..I gather mine are longer.......

2. Front under cart. My steering arm also would need a much wider width front hole than 48mm.. Im thinking of taking one hole off the arm each side to make it fit...thoughts? it will be just small enough to fit 48mm then.

3. Servo arms.(aileron, rudder, elevator) what height are you attaching to the push rod. ie 25mm arm top hole..etc.. I usually try to go mechanically correct ie 1-1 to match the horns but I noticed a lot of shots with people with short arms. I was about to order the clevis and then thought I may need smaller arms for the servos...

4. I noticed some shots of people with the front wheel door not on it and also some with the whole area inclosed inside... is this necessary...is the door enough or only required if you want the speed brake capability and the fuse can be open underneath like that...?

5. Those clunks you have Dave. Where in Aus do you reckon I can get them or do I need to order from overseas...? I like the look of them and would prefer to do it right the first time.

6. That zap 40 you use for fuel proofing the wood is essentially an epoxy mix? the names of products here are not always the same... trying to find a place here that also sells the rock finish interior paint....

Slowly building...very time poor at the moment with work. . Put some more flights on the Euro on the weekend....loving it......a great adrenalin rush.....

Thanks in advance for all who answer...apologies again for the 10000000 questions...new to the jet game and I have many questions...

safe flying
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:11 AM
  #3289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR117 View Post
Hi
Again apologies if this is already mentioned earlier in the thread...its a long one now and every search take a hour or two...although I'm starting to familiarize myself with it.

Questions:

1. Front under cart. Im using Intairco wheels/struts.. did you guys have to shorten the strut ( ie vertical ) or did you lengthen the rear hole? Maybe what is the strut /wheel length from the block..I gather mine are longer.......

2. Front under cart. My steering arm also would need a much wider width front hole than 48mm.. Im thinking of taking one hole off the arm each side to make it fit...thoughts? it will be just small enough to fit 48mm then.

3. Servo arms.(aileron, rudder, elevator) what height are you attaching to the push rod. ie 25mm arm top hole..etc.. I usually try to go mechanically correct ie 1-1 to match the horns but I noticed a lot of shots with people with short arms. I was about to order the clevis and then thought I may need smaller arms for the servos...

4. I noticed some shots of people with the front wheel door not on it and also some with the whole area inclosed inside... is this necessary...is the door enough or only required if you want the speed brake capability and the fuse can be open underneath like that...?

5. Those clunks you have Dave. Where in Aus do you reckon I can get them or do I need to order from overseas...? I like the look of them and would prefer to do it right the first time.

6. That zap 40 you use for fuel proofing the wood is essentially an epoxy mix? the names of products here are not always the same... trying to find a place here that also sells the rock finish interior paint....

Slowly building...very time poor at the moment with work. . Put some more flights on the Euro on the weekend....loving it......a great adrenalin rush.....

Thanks in advance for all who answer...apologies again for the 10000000 questions...new to the jet game and I have many questions...

safe flying
The stock Behotec nose leg is 141mm long, the steering arms stay inside the fuselage.


20mm radius on everything except the flap where I use 15mm

I always add the nose door.

You can order the clunks from us, we can supply Aus.

Wing skinning resin, thinned with Methylated spirit (alcohol)

Regards

Dave
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:42 AM
  #3290
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Then i got an other one,

With what do you glue the cover on the vertical fin to cover the rod for the rudder?
And do you trim it down all the way, or leave a little "flange" for some extra bonding surface?

Thanks,

Ed
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:05 AM
  #3291
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Rarely fit them! on the original Flash it was put on with silicon and its still attached!
Yes, leave a small lip/flange

Dave
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:16 PM
  #3292
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Thanks Dave,

Wasn't my plan to put it on either, but made a Mega Fu..Up with drilling the slot in the fin......... so i have to cover up something
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:35 PM
  #3293
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Midas
if the slot you've made is too big , then leave the lip on and try fitting the cover from the inside of the fin , it may come out neater
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:46 PM
  #3294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xantos View Post
Midas
if the slot you've made is too big , then leave the lip on and try fitting the cover from the inside of the fin , it may come out neater
Xantos,

I drilled the first 2 holes way to high, i'm closing them with epoxy and cloth and just have to cover op the mess i made , if i go from the inside, the slot will become way to big

Stupid me!!
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:55 AM
  #3295
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Hi Midas.

CARF do nice little tins of touch up paint if you need it.
Unfortunately you are not the only one to make mistakes

Paul.

Last edited by paulhat; 09-18-2013 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:43 AM
  #3296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulhat View Post
Hi Midas.

CARF do nice little tins of touch up paint if you need it.
Unfortunately you are not the only one to make mistakes

Paul.
I'm already in the process of getting some,
What a cluster Fu.. this is i'm really pissed off by myself.............
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:57 AM
  #3297
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During the build of my current UF I accidently drilled a small hole through the top of the wing.
I was drilling out the UC bearers for the retracts and slipped. I was so angry with myself for about 2 weeks
It was the only thing that went wrong on the whole build but I kept thinking about it every time I looked at that darn wing.
After about 6 months I got over it. Haha..
Maybe these things add a bit of character to the plane. It flies really good in any case!!
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Old 09-20-2013, 01:02 AM
  #3298
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Just had in another UF in the classic Green scheme for a customer build. P-120SX JR setup.

Dw
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:59 PM
  #3299
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Today my "down & Locked" retract conversions had a failure. One of my main gear must have slipped off the screw jack & began to swing free. 3rd flight Anyone having continued success with these conversions?
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:48 AM
  #3300
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Not an to bad of a clean up i would say,




As Paul said, if give's it Character.....
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