C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#5651
Thread Starter
Sorry, badly punctuated! You want 230mm, so do you still think you need tail weight?
Normally with the CARF Pipe a little nose weight is needed.
Normally with the CARF Pipe a little nose weight is needed.
#5652
My Feedback: (6)
I had a Classic Flash with aTam's pipe and it required some nose weight, The UF must be very different.
Thanks for the feedback.
#5653
Thread Starter
I always balance as I expect to be at the end of the flight, so UAT full and 1/2" in main fuse tank.
Yes, the UF layup has been refined over years of production, but 10oz that far back is a huge change!
Dave
Yes, the UF layup has been refined over years of production, but 10oz that far back is a huge change!
Dave
#5654
My Feedback: (2)
I was reading the manual and it gives a projected balance with the gear up, does anyone have a balance range with the gear down? I have the xicoy balancer and it just easier to do it with gear down. Plus it only makes sense that you balance in landing config where it's most important?
#5656
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
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So i need some help from you experienced UF builds. I have succesfully installed the turbine and carbon covers, but i'm struggling to fit the inlet jointer for the bypass. The manual calls for trimming the back section, in the manual it looks like a half circle cut out....Not sure why they did it that way.
The manual also calls for trimming the side, however I decided to flatten out the entire section and added some hysol for extra protection.
What is the process you guys follow to install the inlet jointer? Installed the turbine and carbon cover and then the inlet jointer OR install the inlet jointer, then the bottom carbon cover, Turbine and then close off with the top cover?
As you can see in the picture, it seems as if the carbon bottom cover is not low enough restricting the connection to the inlet jointer.
The manual also calls for trimming the side, however I decided to flatten out the entire section and added some hysol for extra protection.
What is the process you guys follow to install the inlet jointer? Installed the turbine and carbon cover and then the inlet jointer OR install the inlet jointer, then the bottom carbon cover, Turbine and then close off with the top cover?
As you can see in the picture, it seems as if the carbon bottom cover is not low enough restricting the connection to the inlet jointer.
#5657
Thread Starter
The lengths and fit are all very tight, it looks like the carbon turbine cover could go back a few mm on the bell mouth. I then clean up the fuselage inlet back edge,radius either side of that and ensure its sanded flat across the front face. The wrap of tape the factory adds will need smoothing down so that the white Y joiner can go as far forward as possible, before you drop the back round section onto the carbon turbine cover bottom half.
to get the cover on, file a lead in on the back sharp edge so it will go into the small gap between the wood former and carbon bell mouth
to get the cover on, file a lead in on the back sharp edge so it will go into the small gap between the wood former and carbon bell mouth
#5658
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
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Thank you Dave, I will try that. I can say that the I have sanded the wood former at the carbon bell mouth and the carbon cover does sit flush, in my picture the carbon cover is not 100% in place.
Can i ask you to clarify "I then clean up the fuselage inlet back edge,radius either side of that and ensure its sanded flat across the front face" im not sure what your referring to.
Strange that I struggle so much, the inlet jointer fits perfectly and i'm able to push it way forward over the fiber glass strip installed at the factory. It just seems as if the fuel tank support is in the way causing the a downward restriction to the back end of the inlet joiner.
Another question, in the manual the jointer shows a half circle cut out? What is this for? I dont see why I need to do that.
Apologies for any stupid questions but not actually sorry as this is my first jet build.
Can i ask you to clarify "I then clean up the fuselage inlet back edge,radius either side of that and ensure its sanded flat across the front face" im not sure what your referring to.
Strange that I struggle so much, the inlet jointer fits perfectly and i'm able to push it way forward over the fiber glass strip installed at the factory. It just seems as if the fuel tank support is in the way causing the a downward restriction to the back end of the inlet joiner.
Another question, in the manual the jointer shows a half circle cut out? What is this for? I dont see why I need to do that.
Apologies for any stupid questions but not actually sorry as this is my first jet build.
#5659
Join Date: Feb 2013
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So after a long battle last night to get the inlet jointer to fit I decided that I will not be running the fully bypass system. Honestly space is a problem and I feel it might complicate things for me. Yes I understand I will be loosing some Horse power BUT honestly the bit of power that I will loose I wont even miss. So I will still use the turbine top and bottom cover to assist with holding the saddle tanks in place, UNLESS i decide on a fixing method the same as what Paul did.
This weekend actually for the first time saw a UF in the flesh flying, I was shocked how fast it is and I was trembling to see at what speeds the aircraft comes into land. It was the maiden flight, however both flights the landing was pretty intense. This model lands no where near as slow as my viper. So basically i'm going to have to take it slow.
Like I say, I'm going to have to bend over for this model, whether I bend over by my self or pull up my socks, bending over I will bend. LOL
This weekend actually for the first time saw a UF in the flesh flying, I was shocked how fast it is and I was trembling to see at what speeds the aircraft comes into land. It was the maiden flight, however both flights the landing was pretty intense. This model lands no where near as slow as my viper. So basically i'm going to have to take it slow.
Like I say, I'm going to have to bend over for this model, whether I bend over by my self or pull up my socks, bending over I will bend. LOL
#5660
Thread Starter
The UF lands really slowly...if the pilot lands it that way, has the flap set correctly. It's a slippery airframe, so energy needs to be controlled, it can fly fast or slow around the sky, this weekend in the wind all the UF models were hovering into land.
#5661
Here is a video of me landing the UF in a slight crosswind.
I held it off until the stall which you can see happened at a pretty low speed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdBFZxrzjPs
I held it off until the stall which you can see happened at a pretty low speed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdBFZxrzjPs
So after a long battle last night to get the inlet jointer to fit I decided that I will not be running the fully bypass system. Honestly space is a problem and I feel it might complicate things for me. Yes I understand I will be loosing some Horse power BUT honestly the bit of power that I will loose I wont even miss. So I will still use the turbine top and bottom cover to assist with holding the saddle tanks in place, UNLESS i decide on a fixing method the same as what Paul did.
This weekend actually for the first time saw a UF in the flesh flying, I was shocked how fast it is and I was trembling to see at what speeds the aircraft comes into land. It was the maiden flight, however both flights the landing was pretty intense. This model lands no where near as slow as my viper. So basically i'm going to have to take it slow.
Like I say, I'm going to have to bend over for this model, whether I bend over by my self or pull up my socks, bending over I will bend. LOL
This weekend actually for the first time saw a UF in the flesh flying, I was shocked how fast it is and I was trembling to see at what speeds the aircraft comes into land. It was the maiden flight, however both flights the landing was pretty intense. This model lands no where near as slow as my viper. So basically i'm going to have to take it slow.
Like I say, I'm going to have to bend over for this model, whether I bend over by my self or pull up my socks, bending over I will bend. LOL
#5662
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Hi Paul,
I saw that video, yes that looks like a normal and easy landing model. Maybe the guy's UF from this weekend was not setup correctly OR just came in too fast.
What setup are you running and are you using crow... (I dont want to go into a debate on this crow thing, seems this is a hot topic)
Are you running the bypass? Man I cant get mine to fit. space is a major problem. Hopefully it will be ok to run without it.
I saw that video, yes that looks like a normal and easy landing model. Maybe the guy's UF from this weekend was not setup correctly OR just came in too fast.
What setup are you running and are you using crow... (I dont want to go into a debate on this crow thing, seems this is a hot topic)
Are you running the bypass? Man I cant get mine to fit. space is a major problem. Hopefully it will be ok to run without it.
#5663
I guess mine is pretty light.. just the wing and fuse tank with a K100.
I do run crow but not sure if it makes much of a difference. I don't run much flap.
Yep I do run the bypass. Mine was pretty easy to fit I guess. I can see in your picture that you don't have it pushed on far enough.
I think it will be fine without it in any case.
Paul.
I do run crow but not sure if it makes much of a difference. I don't run much flap.
Yep I do run the bypass. Mine was pretty easy to fit I guess. I can see in your picture that you don't have it pushed on far enough.
I think it will be fine without it in any case.
Paul.
#5665
Hi Paul,
I saw that video, yes that looks like a normal and easy landing model. Maybe the guy's UF from this weekend was not setup correctly OR just came in too fast.
What setup are you running and are you using crow... (I dont want to go into a debate on this crow thing, seems this is a hot topic)
Are you running the bypass? Man I cant get mine to fit. space is a major problem. Hopefully it will be ok to run without it.
I saw that video, yes that looks like a normal and easy landing model. Maybe the guy's UF from this weekend was not setup correctly OR just came in too fast.
What setup are you running and are you using crow... (I dont want to go into a debate on this crow thing, seems this is a hot topic)
Are you running the bypass? Man I cant get mine to fit. space is a major problem. Hopefully it will be ok to run without it.
#5667
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
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Will post some pics but I could not get the front section of the inlet jointer to slide on... I need some more room down the bottom towards the main fuel tank side. I was trying so hard the front section split and I had to hysol it together.
Its just a hassle. So decided to only install the turbine carbon covers, which I believe would combat should a fire happen and reduce FOD
Unless its really a problem I will try again
#5669
My Feedback: (6)
Hi Danny,
Will post some pics but I could not get the front section of the inlet jointer to slide on... I need some more room down the bottom towards the main fuel tank side. I was trying so hard the front section split and I had to hysol it together.
Its just a hassle. So decided to only install the turbine carbon covers, which I believe would combat should a fire happen and reduce FOD
Unless its really a problem I will try again
Will post some pics but I could not get the front section of the inlet jointer to slide on... I need some more room down the bottom towards the main fuel tank side. I was trying so hard the front section split and I had to hysol it together.
Its just a hassle. So decided to only install the turbine carbon covers, which I believe would combat should a fire happen and reduce FOD
Unless its really a problem I will try again
I've installed it on my new UF but, really see little value in it other than it may contain a hot start better than without. Even that is questionable as a hot start usually blows out through the pipe, not around the engine itself.
Without bypass saves you about 10oz too although on the UF, as I've found out, it's not necessary to save weight behind the CG.
Mike
#5670
My Feedback: (2)
Will,
When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.
Paul
When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.
Paul
#5673
Thread Starter
There are a choice of colours, Yellow is not the only option, you would have to get a custom quote on the Classic as the wing masks will be completely different, but I'm sure it can be done.
talk to DreamWorks
talk to DreamWorks
#5674
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
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Thanks Paul, I will definitely try that. I tend to agree its about finding what works, I was very patient and after an hour of trying and just starring at it I decided to part with it.
Still waiting on my package...will let you know once it arrives!
Still waiting on my package...will let you know once it arrives!
Will,
When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.
Paul
When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.
Paul
#5675
Will,
When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.
Paul
When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.
Paul