RCISFUN

My Feedback: (44)

+1

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for everyone's help. I settled on DS8711's for the elevators and DS8411's for the ailerons for appropriate power and ultimate precision. I am trying out the Spectrum (Savox) A6030 servos on steering, rudder and flaps. They are digital MG servos with 278 oz in of torque and at 68$ a pop very reasonable. They are performing well in another large jet I know of. I personally wanted digital on steering, especially if I elect to use a gyro. The JR 579 is not sold here in the states.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Has anyone tried an Airpower EV5 sequencer in a Hawk? It is recommended by Todd at Dreamworks and has apparently had some bugs worked out so it is a solid unit now. I looked a a great variety of ways to do the gear/brakes but they all end up costing as much and being a great deal more complicated to assemble than the EV5, this on account that I want air pressure readouts, low pressure failsafe, and proportional braking. http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/func...lve-p-756.html

dubd

Eric, the EV5 unit is very popular and has been out for a few years. I have used them in almost all my jets with only one being defective. If you do a search on RCU you will find a number of threads on it.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Sweet!

Zetti

Hi Guys,

just got my Navy Hawk right before christmas (ordered in november this year) and started building now.

So fare everything seems fine, but there are two things I'm wondering about:

1.) There's no cut out for the rudder servo

2.) The flap rod hole and especially the flap horn are misaligned

Since the instructions say, that this only occurs on early kits - I'm wondering how this can happen? Is it possible that CARF sold me an "old" leftover kit??? Or are these things still not sorted out, even in the new kits?

Many thanks and greetings from Germany

Stephan

luv2flyrc

My Feedback: (6)

I think if I remember correctly, there's paperwork on or in the CARF box that will tell you the date of manufacture. It's on bottom of the list on contents. I don't think CARF has corrected these problems even in later runs as both my Hawks, Display scheme and Red Arrows are like this. The fixes are very easy though and not much of an issue.

Mike

Dave Wilshere

Stephan

The fins are normally cut, but if yours is not follow the pictures and put a hole in the rough centre and Dremel out to the plywood. I thought the flap horns were sorted, I'll talk with the factory and see what's up. Easy fix even if you shouldn't have to do it.
Almost no chance its an old kit!

regards

Dave Wilshere

Zetti

Hi Mike, hi Dave,

just looked and the quality seals say 05/2011 - so it's over a year old! Nevertheless should it be "young" enough not to have the reported issues!? Interesting that other points which are reported in the manual are okay - e.g. the double control horns on the elevator are factory installed.

So the cut in the fin shouldn't be a big deal, but cracking the flap horns makes me nervous! Should I mill the bondig first and hope that the horns stay in one piece, or is the cut meant to be breaking the horn in two and glue the upper part in again!? The later is nothing I would trust in!!!

Regards

Stephan

luv2flyrc

My Feedback: (6)

Stephan,

Some people have moved the horn but, my "fix" was simply to "raise" the flap servo in it's pocket by blocking it up enough to move it over in proper alignment with the horn. You have to elongate the opening in the the shear webbing to allow the control rod to move over and line up with the horn as well. I hope you can follow what I am saying without a picture.

Also, I slipped carbon fibre tubes of the appropriate size over the flap push rods to stiffen them as I found they can flex under load with out the reinforcement.

Mike

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

Stephan,
I received my Hawk last May 2012 and it was a 2010 production. I had the same issues. The cutout for the rudder is a two minute fix. The flap misalignment not so fast. I tried the "cracking' of the horn but that didn't turnout so well for me. I ended up dremeling the entire horn out and making new horns and re-seating them into the wood and then used blocking wood on each side of the new horn and aeropoxied it. It was time consuming and a little frustrating trying to get the correct shape of the replacement horns but in the end it was worth it. I also used carbon fiber tubes on all the threaded control rods for all the surfaces.

Marty

Stig Andersen

Hi.
I got my Hawk kit the week before Christmas. I had the same issues as Stephan. But is was an easy fix. The Q-seal is dated 6/2011. I used brass tubing over the 3 mm threaded pushrod for the flaps.

Is there a good alternative to the sport gear from CARF?

Stig Andersen

Another question.
The carbon tube for the all flying elevater is oversize. I cannot find any procedure in the manual for this carbon tube. What is to be done with it?

fireblade5437

Stig

How much is the carbon tube out by? mm?

Mine was tight I just 'polished' with 1000 wet/dry paper

Some pics of the fittings I made for end of carbon tube also the servo mount I made out out FG board as the wooden ones in my kit.... well I would not use them for what they were intended for...

Also made bushes for the purple servo arms (Phosphor bronze) so there was zero play in clevis. Grey glue is Hysol 9461 same tear strength as 9462 but works out a lot cheaper I buy it in tubes of 200ml (400ml total)

From: grampianfasteners.com

Loctite® Hysol® 9461 A&B 400ml (451233) 1 £36.84 £7.37 £44.21
Sub Total: £36.84
Delivery: £3.50
VAT: £8.07
Total: £48.41

From site:

Description
Loctite® Hysol® 9461 A&B
Loctite® Hysol® 9461 A&B is a toughened, 2K-Epoxy adhesive, suitable for applications requiring gap filling and high peel strength. Ideal for bonding dissimilar substrates like GRP, SMC and composites.
This product requires: Loctite® Dual Cartridge Dispenser

Specifications
• Non-sag paste
• Heat accelerated (4 min. @ 120°C)
• High peel strength

Typical Properties
• Mix ratio by volume: 1:1
• Mix ratio by weight: 100:100
• Working life: 40 min.
• Fixture time: 240 min.
• Colour: Grey
• Viscosity: 270 Pa.s
• Shear strength (GBMS): 24 N/mm²
• Peel strength (GBMS): 10.0 N/mm
• Operating temperature: up to 100°C

Description
Code
Price
(Inc. VAT )
Est. Delivery

50ml

451231
£13.72
In stock


400ml

451233

£46.67

1 week

Alan

Dave Wilshere

The horn crack I literally got the horn held in some bull nose pliers, bent it the direction needed till they cracked, soaked in some thin CA and ran a bead of hysol.
The fibrous horns generally hang together.

The carbon pivot, I cut flush and pinned inside the bearings.

Dave

RCISFUN

My Feedback: (44)

Stig,
My tube was cut flush and pinned, it looks like an extra inner piece of plywood was added to take up the slop.

In the photos the pins are removed I need to install before the final assembly.

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

I had some hardwood dowel in my wood box that was a perfect slip fit inside the CF tube. I epoxied that in the tube, cut it flush to the outside of the fuse and then pnned it inside the fuse on both sides with small diameter CF tube. I felt more comfortable drilling through a solid tube.

Marty

Stig Andersen

Thanks for the input. [8D]

Can anybody tell me if there is a good alternative to the sport landing gear from C-ARF. I want to do a T-45-like version of the Hawk with twin nose wheels.

fireblade5437

TUCSON (Stan)

Your pitot probe for your CARF Hawk is finished, will pack into a carbon tube for protection then it will be on it's way over the pond!

Alan

Dave Wilshere

Not really, though Jet 1A in Austria did some sets for the Hawk, Peter might be able to build you a nose unit with a twin wheel nose leg..

Dave W

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Alan,

The probe looks great.

You are quite the craftsman.

Looking forward (No pun intended) to putting it on my Hawk.

Thank you,

Stan

Stig Andersen

Thanks, Dave. I ordered the sport landing gear from CARF. Maybe I can do something with the nose leg myself. [8D]

Kenrico

Finally got the hawk out of the box today.
will get some pics later

Kenrico

Started the build last night

Kenrico

for those who have built the Hawk, where did you route the Aileron Servo extensions? I know Dave said in front on the Spar but does that mean they would exit between the gear and spar like where we would also route the airline?
I was thinking on bringing them behind the spar (between spar and trailing edge) and then enter the center some where by the flap servo. there is also a slot there that looks like it was intended for that but not sure.
any help greatly appreciated !

Thanks!