Electric Osmose Building
10-25-2007, 05:38 AM
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RE: Electric Osmose Building
I think it is a great opportunity for the entire RC F3A community to learn how a top F3A master, 30 years in F3A,
build his new F3A ship. I will not exaggerate if I say that Itzik is one of the world top F3A builder and for him
F3A ship building is a science by itself. Itizik, please keep up the photos documentation.
I am confident that this post will become an essential masterpiece for any F3A Pilot.
Amram
build his new F3A ship. I will not exaggerate if I say that Itzik is one of the world top F3A builder and for him
F3A ship building is a science by itself. Itizik, please keep up the photos documentation.
I am confident that this post will become an essential masterpiece for any F3A Pilot.
Amram
10-26-2007, 06:49 AM
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RE: Electric Osmose Building
Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge
Brgds
Juan
Brgds
Juan
10-26-2007, 11:14 AM
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RE: Electric Osmose Building
ORIGINAL: jnp
Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge
Brgds
Juan
Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge
Brgds
Juan
Yes, the reason for the ply is to strengthen the tips, I try to build the ship that it will look like new one after hundreds of flights. According to my experience, sometimes the tips are damaged during transportation.
Isaac Najary
10-29-2007, 01:18 PM
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RE: Electric Osmose Building
Hi Najary,
This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though
. What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting?
thanks
Roly
This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though
. What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting?thanks
Roly
10-29-2007, 02:13 PM
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RE: Electric Osmose Building
ORIGINAL: rolyjr
Hi Najary,
This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though. What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting?
thanks
Roly
Hi Najary,
This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though
. What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting?thanks
Roly
Hi Roly
The marking is 2.5mm from the wing tip, that allows 0.9mm gap after gluing the 1.6mm balsa sheet.
Isaac Najary
10-29-2007, 10:18 PM
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RE: Electric Osmose Building
Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks
Roly
Roly
10-30-2007, 02:09 AM
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RE: Electric Osmose Building
ORIGINAL: rolyjr
Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks
Roly
Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks
Roly
Mine came out straight from the box.
I suggest using the straight angled balsa on the wings/stabs (not on the ailerons/elevators).
Glue on the ailerons/elevators a new balsa sheets, about the same thickness as the original spars.
At first sand it flush with the ailerons/elevators skins, and then sand the triangle shape.
Goog luck.
Isaac Najary