3D Foamy
#2
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
i had the katana. i now have the cap. personaly all foamys fly the same to me depending on wing area. the lighter the wing loading the calmer the conditions have to be to fly. you will love wich ever one you get.
#3
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From: Granite Bay,
CA
www.fancyfoam.com. Great kits, support and quality. You can go from an airframe to a complete kit.
Hank
Hank
#8
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From: Cheney,
WA
The Katana takes a bit more dedication to hover... mostly because the ailerons end further outboard. (Prop wash is less over them)
But I'm one for looks and so I kept everything scale.
But I'm one for looks and so I kept everything scale.
#9
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From: Cheney,
WA
When I started, I told Tim from Foamy Factory that I wouldn't be doing any of the planes that he has... So thats why I don't have the Yak 54 or the Ultimate.
I do plan on a Yak 55 though. It sucked the big one in the full scale world, but I think it has the correct proportions for Precision 3D...
Right now I am finishing work on the Advantage Bipe (SWEET!) and then I've got a few others (Super Chipmunk, CAP 10, and the F-15/F22)
I do plan on a Yak 55 though. It sucked the big one in the full scale world, but I think it has the correct proportions for Precision 3D...
Right now I am finishing work on the Advantage Bipe (SWEET!) and then I've got a few others (Super Chipmunk, CAP 10, and the F-15/F22)
#10
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From: redding,
CA
Levi,,
did you get caught up on your orders yet? I just ordered the Cap tonight and am sooooo excited to get it!
As soon as i get it and get it up in the air,, i'll take some vid!
did you get caught up on your orders yet? I just ordered the Cap tonight and am sooooo excited to get it!
As soon as i get it and get it up in the air,, i'll take some vid!
#12
A yak 55?? Now that would be kewl!!! I had a Yak 55 foamie made my another person and i thought it was the easiest plane i've ever hovered.
TTYL, Andrew T.
TTYL, Andrew T.
#14
craigman -
I am also looking at the cap, and i was wondering what motor, battery, prop, etc. you were going to put in it. I don't know much about electrics so I'm kinda a newb on this one. I'm not quite sure what would be the best setup. THx,
I am also looking at the cap, and i was wondering what motor, battery, prop, etc. you were going to put in it. I don't know much about electrics so I'm kinda a newb on this one. I'm not quite sure what would be the best setup. THx,
#15
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From: redding,
CA
I've got the Eflight 370 brushless, 10 amp castle speed controller, Kokam 3 cell, and Cirrus micro servos, and GWS reciever for it.
Right now i have everything going into a Eflight Ultimate. So when i tear that up, i'll put it all into the Cap. I can't wait!
Right now i have everything going into a Eflight Ultimate. So when i tear that up, i'll put it all into the Cap. I can't wait!
#16
Once again, i don't mean to sound noobish, but is that a good setup for virtually all 3d? I have been checking out some sites about them and I'm not sure what engine will do what and so forth. I just want to make sure if i pay all this money i get it right the first time
I was looking at www.3dfoamy.com and their specs, but was still unsure. I believ that is where I'm gonna order the cap from, but like i said, i am unsure about everything else. Thxz again. 
Oh, i'll post what im gonna put in her up in the forums on last time to make sure all is ok.
I was looking at www.3dfoamy.com and their specs, but was still unsure. I believ that is where I'm gonna order the cap from, but like i said, i am unsure about everything else. Thxz again. 
Oh, i'll post what im gonna put in her up in the forums on last time to make sure all is ok.
#17
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From: Manvel,
TX
The set up I've been using for the last year which works great and it reasonably priced is: Himax 2015-4100 motor, GWS EPS gearbox with "D" gearing, Castle Creations Phoenix 25 amp ESC and a 3s 1200 mAh lipoly pack of good quality such as an E-tech or Thunderpower.
This set up performs perfect in a foamy of the size that 3D Foamy sells. Plenty of power and it won't break the bank. Sure you will net a little more power with a Razor or Hacker but you'll pay twice the cost of a Himax to get it.
I hope this helps but one thing's for sure, you can't do any better than choosing 3D Foamy for a flat plane.
This set up performs perfect in a foamy of the size that 3D Foamy sells. Plenty of power and it won't break the bank. Sure you will net a little more power with a Razor or Hacker but you'll pay twice the cost of a Himax to get it.
I hope this helps but one thing's for sure, you can't do any better than choosing 3D Foamy for a flat plane.
#18
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From: Cheney,
WA
Craigman... almost all cought up! I'm getting the F-18 park jets done right now.... I should be to your kit on Tuesday.
T1nk>>> TAshley got it right on that last post... thats a great setup. Only thing I would add is that the AXI 2212-34 and a pheonix 10 ESC is a good choice too... Basically if you look at that motor chart on the "About Motor" page.... anything you pick off that list will be great.
T1nk>>> TAshley got it right on that last post... thats a great setup. Only thing I would add is that the AXI 2212-34 and a pheonix 10 ESC is a good choice too... Basically if you look at that motor chart on the "About Motor" page.... anything you pick off that list will be great.
#22
Sounds like you should be buying ready to fly planes if you can't build a 3DFoamy.com plane...
Are you in any way associated with the company you endorsed or have something against 3DFoamy...
Just curious
Are you in any way associated with the company you endorsed or have something against 3DFoamy...
Just curious
#24
I respect your answer and your integrity, I was unsure as their tends to be many trolls on these boards.
I used Robart hinges on my control surfaces and so far so good. The spar trough was really not that difficult to make, just score it with a new razor blade and scrape it out with the carbon fiber spar. Just take your time. Also be careful not to go too deep. I believe it is better to have some of the spar 'sticking out' of the bottom of the wing than to go through the top. I agree there are a few tricky parts on the assembly, but that is to be expected of any kit out there. I have built everything from static plastic models to R/C submarines and have learned to 'enjoy' the tricks.
-Adam
I used Robart hinges on my control surfaces and so far so good. The spar trough was really not that difficult to make, just score it with a new razor blade and scrape it out with the carbon fiber spar. Just take your time. Also be careful not to go too deep. I believe it is better to have some of the spar 'sticking out' of the bottom of the wing than to go through the top. I agree there are a few tricky parts on the assembly, but that is to be expected of any kit out there. I have built everything from static plastic models to R/C submarines and have learned to 'enjoy' the tricks.
-Adam
#25
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From: Cressona, PA
Haven't seen the robart micro hinges yet. The match pack worked great. I had considered using my soldering iron to burn a small groove into the wing for the spar. I should have done that. I was just determined to get that spar down low enough so it sat flush with the bottom of the wing. Again, that's just me being anal.
Happy flying.
Happy flying.


