Dave,

The T pieces are pressed from a small 6 1/4 " by 3 1/4 " liteply sheet..they are a T in the most squashed sense of the letter T

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would be more like it!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks steve - the sheet wasn't in the kit. At least it's good to know I'm not going totally bonkers! I'd started looking through all the scrap liteply for the third time

Archie: When you read this could you pm me and let me know how to obtain the aforesaid missing sheet of lite ply - thanks

DaveP

Now thats eases my ind, I was down the shed looking for a t piece, I only have two though, the ones that attach to the front carbon tube, is there more?

what motor you using dave.

Foof,

I think the bits you are talking about are 'FWB' which joins onto front incidence doubler...

These T pieces are NOT shown on the plan, and do not appear on the inventory list ...[:@][:@][:@]



Steve

They were added as an extra by Archie after Colin M knocked his firewall off!!!

Mine Ali,s and the boys dont have them and IMHO model does not require them. Belt and braces doubler is what they are.

Archie you need to sort this bit out if the builders are struggling with finding them as well as where they go

Original plan was drawn and printed before they were concieved.

Happy birthday to me. Happy birthday to me

Baron UK

My Birthday tooo hapy birthday to mee happy birthday tooomee haaaapy biiirthday to meee eee haaapy birthday tooooo meeeeEEE!!

What did you get??? a brace of Capiche 90's??

3DUK

Hey foofydoo,
Going to put a brand new 140 Dingo in & run it on 30% cool power - It'll be my first Dingo and whilst I've some concerns because the dingo has a reputation for being 'difficult', the price was simply waaay too good to turn down. Word is that the Dingo, when properly set up, is a smoother running engine than it's siblings.

Still trying to decide whether it's worth spending over £100 on a Hyde mount - Other options could be the unused Dubro mount sitting in my workshop but it pains me to put something so heavy up front when additional nose weight shouldn't be needed. Maybe the soft 'n' safe???

Rudder will be JR 8511, Elevator will be single 8511 via Pete Tindal CF pushrod driving Malolm's most excellent staple (great value at a fiver!)
Ailerons will be Futaba 9451's (8.5 kilos at 6V) and total overkill for the throttle with a mini JR368 digi up front on the firebox.
All digital and all running at 6 Volts off a Sanyo 1700AU pack (AA size) - I'll have to replace the flimsy exit cable from the battery pack with something a little more substantial. Might put a voltage regulator in if the JR's act up on a freshly charged five cell pack

I took one look at the GF cowl, tripped and fell over the disgraceful join(!) and went back to Carbon Copy for the CF cowl which is 'reasonably' well finished (but would still have instantly ended up in the trash before any of the Czech carbon/kevlar/glass manufacturers; Jaro Muller for example, would have allowed it to be seen/sold).

Also got the carbon canopy - it's much, much lighter than the vacuum formed one, and since I intend to strengthen the U/C area and engine box/F1 interface, I justified it by telling myself that adding this small amount of extra weight would be offset by the weight saving of the CF bits.

Finally, will also replace the 'carbon' U/C for something a little less 'agricultural' (in other words more carbon/kevlar and waaay less epoxy/chopped glass mat!) - not sure what yet, might make one myself with some carbon/kevlar twill cloth I have.

Dave

Oops, nearly forgot...HAPPY BIRTHDAY MALCOLM AND 3DUK!

Dave

definately worth getting the hyde mount. I have one in my flip and it smooths the engine out and cuts noise down as well. It will also give your airframe alonger life as it isolating it from the engine vibrations, after a while cyano joints can become brittle.
Have you thought about a lipo pack for the rx, that would reduce weight too.

Mines gonna have a new flightpower motor as they might be a but better than the hacker C50, it's an outrunner, will cost hopefully under £200 and will turn a bigger prop than the Hacker at the same rpm and current - but then the proof will be in the eating not in the pudding. here's hoping.

foofydoo

Ideally you could do with a smaller prop and more rpm Foofy

Happy birthday baron!!

go flying - i use the gator mount for my 140L and it seems to be fine, but if youre going for such a high end setup i'd go the whole hog and get the hyde. I have found that my plane does shake quite a bit, and the rubbers on the gator mount start to wear pretty quick (ive only had about 20-30 flights on it)

What would that acheive Baron - explain please?

well...in for a penny etc... I've gone ahead and ordered the hyde ari.

Swept undercart arrived today from carbon fcukpy..

Tis lighter than the old one but still GF with a sliver of Carbon!

So now i'm all carbon apart from the Spats & the Skid... woo hoo

How did everyone cover the holes in the firebox?

need a service interval indicator.. tank every 100 flights, Gromits every 30....



Steve

Foofy. The boy has to cope with quite a lot of gyroscopic effect on his with that massive prop . Bear in mind he is a class flyer and if he struggles on occasion mere mortals "could end up in trouble" I remember my C50 leccy would wind up in certain manouvres. I remember snaps from knife edge and back could sometimes carry on going for and extra 3\4 turn!!!! At first I thought radio was to blame but a 56" span 6lb model with an 18" prop creates a good deal of gyroscopic so The boys 22" prop must be noticible.

The boy comment required


Go flying. Good choice I would opt for the in cowl flex pipe from Weston also. Its both light and QQQQQ

Berk left the holes open on mine but you could profilm over them before you fuel proof with THIN ZAP If you use a dubro it will be fit an forget.

An outrunner will make the gyroscopic force worse....

We've destroyed 6mm Birch ply formers when the aircraft wanted to go a different direction to the Gyroscope motor! and that was on a humble 600 size outrunner!

Regards,

Steve

MMMM... mine does get in a situation sometimes thats dificult to get out of, after a couple of flips it sometimes goes into a flat inverted spin and even with 50 degrees of opposite rudder she still does 1 1/2 spins before recovery (if the last flip ends 10 foot above the ground the spin is exiting!! ) because of this you have to be on the rudder before the spin starts (full deflection) and in the right direction EVERY time (wrong stick the rudder there and its BOOM)

this can only be the Big prop causing this as all the other 140s that i have flown do not suffer from this (Ali normaly closes his eyes when he is standing next to me and just asks "has it crashed yet"

it may just need more right thrust, i will have to try some more and see what happens.

problem is for max efficiency you need a big prop, if you have a big prop (at lower RPM) you need a lott of pitch to keep the plane above stalling speed, so you end up with a big high pitch prop that is like a flywheel on the front.

i dont know if anyone took any video at this years freestyle, if they did you would be able to see it with full opp. rudder still going round in circles!!

Dave

umumumumumumu!!! eekk

Baron, the new 'destructions' advisory bulletin from Archie says (amongst other things):

"Reinforce the firebox with scrap balsa fillets on each side as shown on the plan, fixed with epoxy, and then add light glass cloth to this whole structure, lapping the cloth onto F1."

Is he/are you suggesting we glass just the interface between the firebox and F1 or the whole shooting match from firewall back to F1? I was about to lightly glass the whole thing until your reply to Berk re covering the holes with profilm made me think twice[sm=confused.gif]

Yep, the Weston Pipe is next on the shopping list - glad to hear it plays a relatively pianissimo tune - are you using the standard Weston flexible pipe manifold? how is the flexi-pipe/manifold holding up?

Dave

I glassed the whole thing, less the holes... You cannot cover an open structure such as a hole with glass cloth this light....

I wet the box and F1 only,laid on the cloth and squeegied off the resin with a ubiquitous credit card, until the whole surface was matt, leaving just enough to wet the cloth....

Next day I cut off the excess cloth with wet'n'dry, retrimmed firebox holes out with scalpel (they had filled with globules of resin). It really is simple!

As an avid electric flyer, I'm glad I chose the YS140!

Regards,

Steve

mine just has 1/4" triangle stock around the fire box and with the 22" prop and the gyroscopic effects that go with it i have not had a problem (i added this after i broke the standard bulkhead) I cyanod mine and there is no glass there at all. but for the weight gain (verry little) and the piece of mind it brings its well worth the extra effort.

Dave

you sure do get a lot of up-thrust when the bulkhead breaks loose

you should fly to queens " i want to break free!" at nexts years freestyle

how rude[&:]

did it see a girl capiche? (is there such a thing)
why don't you try a 20" prop you're using a 13xl after all.

foof, im only using 9s cells (if i went to 10s i coulc come down in prop) but i would need to add another 10 cells to make it 10s wich would put the cell count up to 100!!

PS the motor was still running in that picture because the thrust was all that was holding the motor in!!

how can thrust hold the motor in? surly thrust would pull it out?