Umm remember that momment well!!!!!!!!!!!! Bad old cyano and no triangular stock. HO HUM

Berk just fuel proof what you wish just keep it light.

Baron,

Ok Noted. Will keep it light..'tex over holes then black paint engine bay to keep it looking tidy!

On a business trip next week, so will take ELE bits for something to build in the evenings......


Regards,

Steve

So as a beginner(ish) to 3D should I go for ys power if it behaves like that with the big prop, (but I will be using a smaller prop at 20inches with the 10s pack.)
Just a thought Dave have you measured the weight of your prop, if you could get it as light as possible that would also reduce the gyroscopic forces. The apc e range are good.

Re engine box, the instructions for the kit were altered to recommend the glass of the front with thin cloth. Properly fixed and glued this step is not necessary but we had one customer who had a problem so the instructions were changed to recommend and not to be an option.
I cut out the holes too and have not bothered to fill the in/cover them over - havent considered it necessary.

Foofy - in view of your comments I would go IC yes - and defo YS 140 power ! Im very happy with mine.

my prop is wood and is quite a bit lighter than the apc's (cant remember how much but it was a fair bit)

i dont think this should put you off, i did come second at the freestyle event and my flying is well rusty so the plane played a big part in that. unless you wand to set it up as tail heavy as mine and want to risk your investment by doing negative flips 10 foot from the ground it will not be an issue or be noticed by the pilot!!

go electric trust me

Had a few flights with the APC 17X8N on my capiche with the YS140L.

I can say that it is a lot better than the normal 17X8. The plane is just as quiet but throttle responce is much better and livley, makes 3d much easier. ( though the fact that this is a lighter prop moving the c of g further back ever so slightly could also be a factor)

There is also slightly more top end grunt out of the hover. I couldnt notice a difference in pattern bettween the two props, particularly downline breaking.

Malc youve realy gotta try one

Also did a negative wall for the first time today and its completely crazy, the plane nearly rotates 180 degrees!!

You could have included that bit first Dave, I was thinking if it got into a spin from any tumble I wouldn't be able to get out of it, phew thats ok now cool, thanks dave.

Archie I have just seen a Znline Cap in the same colour scheme as your capiche down to the IS hobbies sticker on the back at the IMAC comp at Smeatharpe, was it yours by any chance?

Was watching Luke fly today - he is getting very good Did a loverly inverted elevator to harrier, about 10 feet up, then flipped it over and started rolling harrier circuits. Nearly lost it a couple of times though [X(].

I have been re-reading all the bumf on the web about tuning YS engines, set mine back to factory settings, and started again. The YS 120 is now purring like it should . I need to try that 17x8n on my 120, I think it would be the purfect prop for the 120.

Had three good flights. Harriers are now a bit more stable, I think the weight savings helped. Will get a new lightweight cowl and the weston pipe sometime in the next couple of months, that should take a few more grams off. Just waiting for the 140FZ at the moment. Any news Archie?

Off to Montreal tomorrow for a week - business not pleasure, going to a conference.

I think my idea of a detachable tailplane just got closer...

These are tough...my friend uses these on his alpina...

http://www.flairproducts.co.uk/Acces.../Multilock.htm

simple, esp for twin 8411 operated Elevators....

Regards,

Steve

Berk - twin 8411s is a bit excessive, unless you already have them in stock...

Sprink... waiting for them to come in.... Im told two weeks.

17x8N is a good alternative.... I like 17x8 but in certain conditions it can cause the motor to labour a little... 17x8N is a nice compromise... We fitted one to the Moki 135 powered C140 and that has perked up a little now too.

foofy - CAP 232 is not mine but we did supply graphics - a close friend of IH !!

Just finished building the fuse - it went together so quickly and with a minimum of fuss.

I was more than a little concerned when I started because everything is light, flexible and fragile... I gave myself a snowball's chance in hell of ending up with a really straight fuse, but... followed Malcolms instructions, made a straight datum line on the building board and pinned the fus sides down and I now have a 100% straight as a die fuselage with absolutely zero twist I'm amazed at how strong the fuse is with it's decking on & profilm will firm it up even more

Another question for anyone that can help:
The U/C ply plates are sheeted with 1/8 balsa (as per the whole of the bottom of the fuse). I'm wary of mounting the u/c on top of the soft balsa - seems it would compress quite rapdly and a sloppy u/c mount would just be asking for the whole thing to be torn out on a less than perfect landing. I was inclined to let the u/c into the balsa sheet so that it would be in total contact with the ply plate but then thought that Malcolm might have mentioned this in the distructions or the plan if it were such a good idea
Luke: was it you that said you used neoprene on the u/c mount? how did that work out?

Dave

Just bolt it on tight and check it once in a while. You will need to clean this area after each session so if it feels a little loose tighten it a bit more. Eventually the 1\8" balsa will compress to the hardness of the ply

Mine has

Yes ive got a bit of old wet suit material sandwiched bettween the u/c and fuz. This takes the shock of my harrier landings much better along with also getting rid of those square rock hard wheels that are supplied.

I also think the swept back undercarriage translates upward llanding force into a rotating force on the u/c plate much more than a conventional u/c. Am considering either getting a straight u/c or reserving harrier landings for special occasions

IMO you need the neoprene spacer if youre going to have a go at harrier landings, unless youre one of the Ali or Boy immortals who pull off a flawless one every time After all it only takes about 5mins to do and cant do any harm.

I was thinking of letting some 1/8 birch ply in there under the UC... but I don't want the worlds heaviest Capiche believe it or not!!!

All for saving money on the servos, the 8411s can go into stock.. If I can get away with something like 8231s or suchlike I will do...

Hope this post works, it's taken all day to get past this firewall!!! [:@] and it's freezing!!!!!

Regards,

Steve

yeah i had a great weekend of flying but the wind wasnt very good but i still flew the C140 did 3 out of four good and soft harrier landings(luke).I also tryed a watterfall with about 3/4 throttle and full down elevator it gos very well.i also brushed up on the harrier and touched my rudder in a prophang[X(].just a query luke when you do rolling harriers on high rate ailerons the plane starts to spiral when i add the rudder.

Adam

Seems to me that rolling harriers have to be a combo of elevator and rudder to look right. Takes lots of sim practise

thanks luke

dunno how the 140's uc plate is done, but if it's a bigger version of the 50 i'd go for a full lenght ply plate, have on my 50 after it spat out the uc plate for the second time. now it doesn't even think about ripping out..

take your uc and hold it in your fist at the top, now push on the tab where the wheels are, feel that twisting force, you plate has to cope with that. the wider the plate the more the force is spread out.

using the orginial cut outs the weight gain is hardly anything

ive had to do the full length ply on my C50 cos i ripped it out WHILE TAXIING!!!!!!!

can anyone tell me, rolling harriers on the C50, hi or lo rates? i cant decide which performs them better.

Thanks
Ian

Hi rate with lots of coffee!

lol, thanks, back to C140 talk

what about lots of tea luke i dont like coffee[sm=drowning.gif]

try whiskey !
50 nout like 140 and if you ripped it on taxi then you didnt build it right !

I personally dont think neo spacer needed... done many harrier landings now on both IH 140s and only damage has been to rear base of rudder.... you must build up power at the last mo to kill descent speed. Remember its not a VTOL landing unless its blowing a gail (I have a vid clip of mine landing almost backwards....my heli would be proud)

Hmmm... my thoughts exactly. I've been looking around for an alternative lightweight strong u/c - this looks pretty good:
http://www.centralhobbies.com/landing_gear/esdflg.html