Cowl on.. just! tight fit!

Cheeks of cowl give plenty of room for throttle servo on mine... nowhere near binding...

I'm using a JR 4001 STD servo...

Have I got a mk 2 cowl or summat??

How much should the prop driver be proud of the cowl, just enough so spinner backplate clears it??

Or do any of these APC props go back further than the backplane and need more clearance??

I hope that made sense...



Regards,

Steve

spinners should normally be about 1/16 from the cowl

Thanks Foofydoo!!!

Cowl cut... first time i've really used a dremel properly

Now it's sand off the mould release agent, fill seams, prime,colour match and order fresh 2 pack, and paint!!

Regards,

Steve

See.. loads of room!

Hard Photo to take wiv me old box brownie!

Regards,

Steve

Ive got a 1/4 inch gap on mine! Purely cos DZ is longer than an L. Also my cowl is pointing up to clear my home made nose ring support. Was'nt going to spend £150 on a Hyde ARI mount was i. Works really well actually part from front of cowl about 1/4" above where it should be. You dont notice it tho as i put on a bigger diameter spinner.

Angus

What is a nose ring for?

keeping the nose inline isnt it? with an anti vibe mount then can shake around lots on idle but the nose ring keeps it strait

Just give it a couple of mm.

No your cowl is the same as all of them.

I gave it 3mm, in case of detonation [:@][:@][:@] looks fine...

Regards,

Steve

Nose ring support just goes over the front of the crankcase on the YS to stop it moving at idle. On the normal Hyde mount you would wear out the discs at the back if it was'nt supported. Il put a pic on here sometime so you can admire my feat of engineering.

Unfortunately, even with making it as profile as possible i could'nt get the cowl quite inline with what it should be i.e it touches my support and it points up very slightly. Don't notice it and it works fine so im not complaining.

Angus

give the motor a degree of upthrust, that will help the cowl fit and also help the 3D capabilities

Dave

How come up thrust helps the 3D? Is it just a C140 thing or is it a general rule of thumb that can be applied to pretty much any 3D'er?

Just curious.

i put upthrust on most planes (especialy the fiber classics planes) it helps. next time your flying ( and i mean with plane with a real fuz not a profile) fly upright slowly into a harrier and note how much up elivator is required to both maintain the harrier and then to slowly pull up into a hover (without gaining hight) most planes will have you chasing them round the field bliping the throttle trying to get the nose up. now try the same thing inverted. i bet you wont use half the elivator and it will "want" to pop up by itself.

you can get a ballanced plane by adding upthrust which if the plane is set up with a rearward CG, will not effect the normal flying qualities.

Dave

It depends how you want to trim the plane. I always trim mine for F3A type aerobatics. This means getting it to go up straight by itself, go down by itself etc etc. This is all a balance of down thrust, side thrust, C of G and wing incidence.

For 3D aerobatics you will have a more rearward C of G which consequently means less wing incidence and/or less down thrust. If you find in the prop hang the model constantly pitches towards the belly decrease down thrust/add up thrust and vice versa.

Angus

I thought the reason planes harrier better inverted is partly because of the downthrust, but also partly because of the thrust line relative to the wing. almost all planes that people do harriers with are low wing, or mid wing with the engine thrust line going above. This means that there is a small moment trying to make the plane do a bunt all the time. It is only really noticeable when the plane is moving slowly and most of the lift is coming from the engine. Thats why planes tumple better to the outside, also its easyer to hover a funfly like a cougar upright because they are high wing.

The down thrust is somehow to do with the way the wind hits the tailplane.

I would sooner have the planes fly in a straight line when there moving forwards and put up with going in to prop hangs from an inverted harrier.

basically I agree with Angus B

they're two different pilots, ones freestyle the other is F3a, both have different requirements and needs from their models.
I thought low wing planes harrier better because the of the low wing the fuse acts like a keel does to a boat.

I have never set an F3A plane up like that and do not intend to in the future!! the Capishe 140 is an artistic aero plane and to get the best out of it it has to be a compromise. The C140 is never going to set the world alight as an out and out F3A plane and i would not choose it for that perpose, but as an artistic areo i would pick it every time. my two are now 4 1/4 and 2 1/2 years old and neither have hit the ground yet (both come very close every flight!!) but thats the nature of this type of flying.

At the end of the day there's a million and one ways to carve a haggis. Find whats works for you and stick to it is my advice.

Angus

do haggis really have legs longer on one side than the other so they can run round hills?

The Haggis:

"A haggis is a small animal native to Scotland. Well when I say animal, actually it's a bird with vestigial wings - like the ostrich. Because the habitat of the haggis in exclusively mountainous and because it is always found on the sides of Scottish mountains, it has evolved a rather strange gait. The poor thing has only three legs, and each leg is a different length - the result of this is that when hunting haggis, you must get them on to a flat plain - then they are very easy to catch - they can only run round in circles.

The haggis is considered a great delicacy in Scotland, and as many of your compatriots will tell you, it tastes great - many visitors from the US have been known to ask for second helpings of haggis!

The noise haggis make during the mating season gave rise to that other great Scottish invention, the bagpipes."

Oh and they taste grrreat!

Angus

HAHAHAHAHA

I would go with The boys back on the upthrust for artistic aero.

I have listened to him and Ali with interest over the last two years and they both have VERY practical ideas. I have just built 1 degree of upthrust into my first depron 3D toy and it sits up for prophang like a puppy begging for a dog biscuit.

Or was that a Haggis

When I get a moment I will adjust my YS140 for 1 degree of upthrust. If its good I will alter the cnc files for the 140 to reflect the change.

For now just add washers and try

Baron: Well Malc if you try the 1 degree of upthrust on the C140 then if all sounds good we will put one degree of upthrust on ours,how many washers would it need and will you have to remount the cowl to suit the engine upthrust like if the spinner didnt line up.

Luke: By the way Luke what spinner do you have on the c140 i no it is a tru-turn ,what is the diameter and length and one more thing hoe much is it.

Ive been thinking of adding a bit of up and slightly more right.

Kane the spinner is an FAI tru turn spinner. Cant remeber wether it was 30 or 40 quid but its very nice and light and much better than the carbon ones from "Cock Copy"

Ask archie about them because i got it from him

thanks[sm=thumbup.gif]