Hi,
returning to flying a Reactor Bipe with a OS 110a after a midair last week that the airplane survived. Earlier it was hovering at 50-60% throttle. But now I can get it to hover at just about 70%. I am using a 16x4 apc that survived the midair but has just developed a small tip nick now. I also noticed that the airplane was crawling and didnt have as much traction in level flight. Everything is the same because I didnt get any damage in the mid air, using the same fuel and stuff. Engine is also leaned out safely. In the interim the local temperature and humidity have gone up 4-5 deg. Could these be contriburing factor to the change in performance?
Ameyam

did you hit the prop on the ground ? even just hte littel tiny'st bit .. mattters

APC props make a vast majority of it's thrust at the tips of the props they are vary good props just Can't hit the run way with them ... like you could a master aircrew or Xoar even


estable a base line with a Tach .. and go form there to note changes

good luck

I did hit the ground but not before the first return flight where i dd hover an notice the difference. while landing that first flight the prop hit. Ours is a polo field and the horces have made a few ditches. Having scraped the ground in previous weeks I put larger wheels this time. But the gear has a hairline crack at the root and flexes a bit anyway.

Does it make a case to goto a 16x6 apc now?
Ameyam

yep that could be your issue


quesiton do you have a spair prop ?

swap out balance see if your back to the starting grounds

Hi,
i have a spare 16x4. I will try props next time
ameyam

if you had a spare why did you not try that right away?
That prop is done.

Noticed the nick when I was packing up. Dont know if it was in the said landing or before or after

Ameyam

it's Super commen that pepole flying APC props that have cliped the tips and don't understand that's where the prop get's its thrust from

happens all the time at my local club to the small eletric guys

i have tryed the wood xoar eletric props and like them just a FYI they are a littel more restianced to touching the run and they are littel quiter

I got a couple of xoar 16x6 just yesterday. Problem with fitting them on this airplane is that the engine is inverted and tank slightly above carb, so engine kicks back viciously. A wooden would break in the first flip with a chicken stick. Even if it doesnt, this engine has the habit of throwing off the prop when still warming up. For a couple of weeks I went with a MAS 16x6 installed and then installed the wooden prop (was using JFX then) for the 2nd flight. Plus I used an electric starter every time. That was just to prevent the prop flying off at 20-30% throttle. After that I settled with APC
I have the same argument- a lot of people fly a nicked prop. I have thrown the one in the pic but nicked props are common. A fellow flier was hovering with a prop (18x6 MAS) that was probably 1/4" shaved off on both sides
Ameyam

sounds like time for a 50cc airplane to me .. I don't know man [8D]


don't spend all your life playing with those slimmers like my good friend nitro wing !!



check out what is on the table nitro ![:-]

Cmon Zach, you know better... no preference for power
Slimers and Lekkies and Gasser here, heck I'll toss in a rubber band mutha and show you all up. Haha. free flight harrier rolls and all
This house is like a freaking hobby store, no complaints on offerings, power plants or type of aircraft, big or small, hmm currently
14 aircraft to use with over 100 built and flown over the past. Kits and ARF's stacked against the walls, Plans and wood to make it past holocaust..

Zach, you may approve of the latest park flier arrival, the Aeroworks 260 30cc QB-L
Was gonna power exotic, but went with DLE 35 RA and canister. Thats just another of my daily toss around planes. Yeah, some slimers still rule, here and there.

Several 50cc and up machines here..

Looks like you have a sweet 104" 3dhs slick on the table, hard to tell in the pic, whats your twin of choice on this one?
If thats your gut in the pic you may wanna trim a bit eh?
Maybe we should have a beer or 2 over some RC man to man talk, perhaps you prefer Rum or some Jack Daniels? I can enyoy them all

if your chicken stick is hard wood, you will damage props, use a leather gloved hand or wrap hockey tape over your stick, no prop should split due to kickback,
not sure what you are are doing, but never used a starter in over 25 years on over 100 planes from .049 to 110.00cc
On 18 inch props and up, a handflip should work easily.

Yes. Just for the record I have a GW MX2 30cc, Funtana 125, AW Extra 300 30 cc and AW Yak 90-120 all waiting for me to get my own vehicle. The Reactor Bipe was in the meantime

That wooden prop I chipped was JXF 15x4 on my FS91. Thats not even inverted. I didnt even flick, just moved it to compression, it backfired and chipped. The 110 has so much compression, it throws the model to the left when trying to flick it. It actually cutoff the rubber cover on a friend's stick. My chicken stick has a silicone sleeve. But even with the APC, when I flick, it starts reverse no matter what way I flick. I end up using the starter every time. I tried leaning, it struggles in transition, so was back to my original setting. There is a lot of dropoff in idle once the driver is removed, so ifs quite rich on LSN

I flew the Bipe today. I had removed the baffle for more power last week, so the engine tuning changed. Whatever we set wasnt rich enough and it deadsticked. There was another model running next to me so I realised too late. Bounced and nosed over. I didnt notice the damage and flew another flight that way. It hovered in high alpha with the 16x6 couldnt get it vertical. Still several mistakes high. When I landed, covering on the wingtip was hanging. The balsa had compressed and the top wing brace cracked. Not major damage, fixable but it cut prop testing short. Engine has power, by the way, needs to be setup with a tach coz I cant hear the difference in the last half turn of HSN

Ameyam

maybe prime your engine less, may help with kickback

kicks back without priming. tank is slight (4-5mm) higher than the carb. I cant get it lower. I usually fill with the baffle fully closed (throttle cut) but when i open throttle for firing, it probably floods again
ameyam

Was just joking. Sounds cool nitro check out proflow thy make a 30cc can vary impressive that dle 35 is a good littel motor sure youll be pleased what prop ya Gona run I'd like to try vess 19b or 20 a

Zach
Was able to grab a DLE Canister front dump from Valleyview, almost all suppliers were out up here and USA.. backorder city..
Proflow was my next option or fabricate my own..my field has a noise restriction, the factory
Pitts aint gonna cut it at all.
Looking at Vess 19B to start and go 20x8 (brand unsure, maybe Xoar, Vess , MSC or Falcon) after break in.
The Aeroworks Extra 260 QB-L is a nice frame , but is not made with a tunnel, this is an option that should be standard or optional when ordering, its a 2012 design...I am making a tunnel from 1/16 Bass wood with gussets and balsa stringers if needed, should be light. maybe 1.5 ounces.

The slimers are getting thin 'round here, but still got some projects where they will work perfectly.
Did you really get a 100cc 3DHS Slick?, cause that thing rocks.

Ameyam
maybe a 3 line tank would help keeping fuel out of flooding carb, or some sort of check valve. Having the carb ready to fire and full of fuel all the time is not ideal, and an electric start can do alot of damage if getting frustrated.

Hi,
didnt fly today, my back was signalling that it needed rest (slipped disc)

I am not exactly sure what happens but you can still hand turn over. Flicking with the driver on is another matter, the whole airplane will jump left if I do without holding. Best to use a starter. Its a 3 line tank and by moving the carb all the way back closed when filling, it itself acts like a regulator

Ameyam

hope you feel better amey , take it easy man

fly the sim at home from the lazy boy


Yep Nitro thats my 104 slick .. ...


i was really shocked the 30cc QB doesnt have a tunnel ?? I am thinking thats going to make a cansiter kinda hard , i did the maiden on my buddys AW 300 .. the orange and white one 30cc it had a Tunnel ... thats really odd ? i wonder whats the reasoning

I'd almost would want to run the stock DLE rear exhuast muffler

Hi,

feeling a bit better

Someone please tell me how the AW 300 30cc flies. Mine is awaiting its turn- sometime around October after the monsoon and I need to know what to be mindful of in the build

Ameyam

Zach
I will start a new discusson on the 260 QB-L once all details and flights are in, hijacked ameys thread enough, although I agree that getting that AW Extra 300 with gasoline, airborne is likey a good remedy for him.

Am
Doubt there is anything weird to watch for in the assembly, just put it together within recomendations like 1-2-3 and enjoy. simple, it really is.

Thanks. My remedy will only fly after October when the monsoon ends and the field grass gets cut

I have another 4-5 weeks before the monsoon and I will be commissioning the GW SBach 20cc which I have started building. That and the AW Extra will be two airframes for next season

Ameyam

I'd start thinking high end foamies about now, to get throught this mess.