Chip Hyde's Vision 3D
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
YNOT what prop are you using?
Is your motor broken in?
What kind of rpms are you getting on the ground?
I have a Menz 22x8 for some punch out of a hoover and also tried a msc 22x8.
Also tried Mejzlic 23x8 but it did not have the punch I wanted.
Mejzlik is heavier than the wooden props.
For 3d guess I need a wooden prop.
My vision weighs 15.1
Check your six
Is your motor broken in?
What kind of rpms are you getting on the ground?
I have a Menz 22x8 for some punch out of a hoover and also tried a msc 22x8.
Also tried Mejzlic 23x8 but it did not have the punch I wanted.
Mejzlik is heavier than the wooden props.
For 3d guess I need a wooden prop.
My vision weighs 15.1
Check your six
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From: W.R.,
Man if I could figure out how to upload pictures, I'd post a pic. of the newer scheme that is on the new Vision 3D. Had the pleasure of watching Mike Hurley fly his new "Project Air Plane". He is currently writting a review on the Vision 3D for the MODEL AVIATION Mag. After watching Mike test fly his I had to order one for me.
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From: Ashland, KY
You mean this one? It is really nice...
ORIGINAL: Roadster
Man if I could figure out how to upload pictures, I'd post a pic. of the newer scheme that is on the new Vision 3D. Had the pleasure of watching Mike Hurley fly his new "Project Air Plane". He is currently writting a review on the Vision 3D for the MODEL AVIATION Mag. After watching Mike test fly his I had to order one for me.
Man if I could figure out how to upload pictures, I'd post a pic. of the newer scheme that is on the new Vision 3D. Had the pleasure of watching Mike Hurley fly his new "Project Air Plane". He is currently writting a review on the Vision 3D for the MODEL AVIATION Mag. After watching Mike test fly his I had to order one for me.
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From: The Woodlands,
TX
I may need some of your stickers casue I'm flyn the covering of the Vision. Put a bunch of flights today. The running joke of the day was, "Tony...........you want this piece of covering?" As I kept ripping off little pieces of color all day.
Needs more right thrust.
I am nose heavy, maybe CF gear and spinner with help. I don't know what the balance point is, I just fly and ajust.
BME has good power and teriffic response with a Prince 22-8. A little less weight will zip it up a bit too.
Needs more right thrust.
I am nose heavy, maybe CF gear and spinner with help. I don't know what the balance point is, I just fly and ajust.
BME has good power and teriffic response with a Prince 22-8. A little less weight will zip it up a bit too.
#185

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From: BILLERICA, MA
If you use clear nail polish are the edges of all of the color pieces, it will not come off. I was talking to Chip and that is the one thing he expressed some dissappointment with. The nail polish seals all of the edges and you can't see it. Sure beats recovering.
R/C Foolish
All I need now is some warm weather to melt all of the snow so that I can get my maiden in.
R/C Foolish
All I need now is some warm weather to melt all of the snow so that I can get my maiden in.
#186
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From: Midwest City,
OK
I got my Vision 3D from Mikes Models in Oklahoma City, it looks great I can Iron out the Dings that were done in shipping with no problem.
I am putting my FOX 3.2 on it, has anyone else used this engine? If so are you running a muffler system that will be hidden or do I have to cut that pretty cowling up?
I think Mike said his son Suan McMurtry flew a Vision up at our field a few weeks ago and it was sweet.
TIA
The Stalker
I am putting my FOX 3.2 on it, has anyone else used this engine? If so are you running a muffler system that will be hidden or do I have to cut that pretty cowling up?
I think Mike said his son Suan McMurtry flew a Vision up at our field a few weeks ago and it was sweet.
TIA
The Stalker
#187
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From: Ashland, KY
There is almost no way of installing an engine without some cutouts on this plane.... the cowl is narrow compared to the scale.
The least obtrusive would be to mount a rear carb engine perfectly vertical then use the pipe header for this plane.... you'll still have a slot cut out where the header comes out a bit... but no cutout on the right side of the cowl.
It's really not all that bad when cutout as designatedint he manual though.
The least obtrusive would be to mount a rear carb engine perfectly vertical then use the pipe header for this plane.... you'll still have a slot cut out where the header comes out a bit... but no cutout on the right side of the cowl.
It's really not all that bad when cutout as designatedint he manual though.
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From: Midwest City,
OK
Maudib
I am from Chillicothe. Anyway I am useing a Pull/Pull on the rudder and I went with the HS 5735MG for pure Torque, the weight gain sucks but I lost a 33% Laser last year due to servo failure
, (its almost re-built) not again.
The digital servo has a quick spin time but some one said that the harmonics from a kevlar cable through the digital servo could cause radio issues. ( This is what a guy told me).
Any comments?
TIA
The Stalker
I am from Chillicothe. Anyway I am useing a Pull/Pull on the rudder and I went with the HS 5735MG for pure Torque, the weight gain sucks but I lost a 33% Laser last year due to servo failure
, (its almost re-built) not again. The digital servo has a quick spin time but some one said that the harmonics from a kevlar cable through the digital servo could cause radio issues. ( This is what a guy told me).
Any comments?
TIA
The Stalker
#189
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From: Ashland, KY
A JR 8611, Futaba 9152 or the new HiTec 5955's are better choices.. more torque, less weight... plenty durable for these 50cc sized planes.
Never heard of Kevlar giving off RF... not sure how it could... a good coated wire is fine though too...
The main thing I do is run the antenna outside the plane (usually strung from the turtledeck to the fin) and maintain as much distance from the ignition and anything attached to the receiver as I can.
Never heard of Kevlar giving off RF... not sure how it could... a good coated wire is fine though too...
The main thing I do is run the antenna outside the plane (usually strung from the turtledeck to the fin) and maintain as much distance from the ignition and anything attached to the receiver as I can.
ORIGINAL: stlkr_67
Maudib
I am from Chillicothe. Anyway I am useing a Pull/Pull on the rudder and I went with the HS 5735MG for pure Torque, the weight gain sucks but I lost a 33% Laser last year due to servo failure
, (its almost re-built) not again.
The digital servo has a quick spin time but some one said that the harmonics from a kevlar cable through the digital servo could cause radio issues. ( This is what a guy told me).
Any comments?
TIA
The Stalker
Maudib
I am from Chillicothe. Anyway I am useing a Pull/Pull on the rudder and I went with the HS 5735MG for pure Torque, the weight gain sucks but I lost a 33% Laser last year due to servo failure
, (its almost re-built) not again. The digital servo has a quick spin time but some one said that the harmonics from a kevlar cable through the digital servo could cause radio issues. ( This is what a guy told me).
Any comments?
TIA
The Stalker
#190
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From: The Woodlands,
TX
I had a glitch with the antenna running down the bottom of the fuse. It may have been the antenna being close to the tail wheel, I donno, however I moved it to the top of the fuse, running to the stab and no problems at all. This is with the rudder servo mounted with a pull pull set up with coated cable. 90 pound test line I think.
#191
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From: Edmond,
OK
That is interesting. I am usinga deans whip antenna and have not had any glitching issues. By the way...the JR 8611 is a better choice. that is what i am using
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From: Newark, OH
Hey Vision fans... great thread. [8D] I just started a new thread on my Vision build, where I show my custom covering scheme and a few other mods. Here's the link if you're interested...
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2749394/anchors_2749699/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm]CUSTOM VISION 3D[/link]
Custom scheme was designed and cut from Ultracote by me, and I designed the logo/gfx in Illustrator and had Dave "Maudib" Johnson cut them from vinyl.
Anyhow, I still need my prop, RX battery and a little final radio gear installation, then I'm ready to balance and weigh this puppy! It's still 20 degrees and snowing in my area, so it will be a while before she gets a maiden. [
]
I can't wait!!!!
Here are a few pics, there are more at the link provided above.
Cya,
Tom
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2749394/anchors_2749699/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm]CUSTOM VISION 3D[/link]
Custom scheme was designed and cut from Ultracote by me, and I designed the logo/gfx in Illustrator and had Dave "Maudib" Johnson cut them from vinyl.
Anyhow, I still need my prop, RX battery and a little final radio gear installation, then I'm ready to balance and weigh this puppy! It's still 20 degrees and snowing in my area, so it will be a while before she gets a maiden. [
]I can't wait!!!!

Here are a few pics, there are more at the link provided above.
Cya,
Tom
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From: Newark, OH
Hey guys, used a borrowed prop and battery to check my CG this afternoon and not good news... VERY tailheavy. [:@]
I was wondering if any of you that have been flying the Vision could let me know where your CG is now... are you flying at suggested (3-1/4" back from LE at tip), or have you moved it back. Does it feel nose-heavy at suggested CG point?
Looks like I'm going to have to add substantial weight to the nose and may still end up being 1/2 an inch or so behind suggested CG... whadya think about that CG position?
I'm at an even 16 pounds AUW now, but I may have to add 3/4 pound or more to balance. Still lighter than a DV, but this ship doesn't have the wing area the DV has. [
] I was shooting for a 15-1/2 to 16 pound bird and got there... but it looks like it will have to be a 16-3/4 pounder in the air if I want it to balance. I've flown tailheavy planes before and don't EVER want to go there again! [sm=eek.gif]
Tom
I was wondering if any of you that have been flying the Vision could let me know where your CG is now... are you flying at suggested (3-1/4" back from LE at tip), or have you moved it back. Does it feel nose-heavy at suggested CG point?
Looks like I'm going to have to add substantial weight to the nose and may still end up being 1/2 an inch or so behind suggested CG... whadya think about that CG position?
I'm at an even 16 pounds AUW now, but I may have to add 3/4 pound or more to balance. Still lighter than a DV, but this ship doesn't have the wing area the DV has. [
] I was shooting for a 15-1/2 to 16 pound bird and got there... but it looks like it will have to be a 16-3/4 pounder in the air if I want it to balance. I've flown tailheavy planes before and don't EVER want to go there again! [sm=eek.gif]Tom
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From: Athens ,
PA
Mine is back an inch further than 3.25, I dont know just where yours is, but I feel mine will be fine. I have not had the chance to fly it yet, seeing as how winter will not cut a break here, but hopefully by months end. Plane looks great in your scheme.
#196
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From: Ashland, KY
In balance here, Tom and I have modified our planes. We opted for hingepoints and added some blocks in the surfaces. We also have leaned towrad the servo in the tail. Tom and I are trying to find out the most rearward CG flown to base an idea of how far back we can go safely. I prefer mine 3D tailheavy. But not warbird tailheavy.
The reason I mention all this is that I didn't want a new reader to think this plane is plagued by tailheavyness... from what I gather, balance hasn't been an issue with this plane. Tom's and mine have several mods in favor of the tailheavyness...
CF gear, CF spinner, tank on CG instead of in the nose, added hingeblocks behind CG, hingepoints instead of CA hinges, etc.
Our dissappointment is in that we are tyring to get a very light plane and in the process ended up with it tailheavy. Going to pull-pull will eliminate most of the problem, but we again prefer the direct linkage. Sometimes you just gotta make concessions.
We'll be reporting on what we did to acheive balance. I think for now Neo will fy it wiht the extra weight in then remove some as we go to see how far back will be safe... then determine if changes to the rudder setup would be necessary to remove all of the added weight.
The reason I mention all this is that I didn't want a new reader to think this plane is plagued by tailheavyness... from what I gather, balance hasn't been an issue with this plane. Tom's and mine have several mods in favor of the tailheavyness...
CF gear, CF spinner, tank on CG instead of in the nose, added hingeblocks behind CG, hingepoints instead of CA hinges, etc.
Our dissappointment is in that we are tyring to get a very light plane and in the process ended up with it tailheavy. Going to pull-pull will eliminate most of the problem, but we again prefer the direct linkage. Sometimes you just gotta make concessions.
We'll be reporting on what we did to acheive balance. I think for now Neo will fy it wiht the extra weight in then remove some as we go to see how far back will be safe... then determine if changes to the rudder setup would be necessary to remove all of the added weight.
ORIGINAL: NE0
Hey guys, used a borrowed prop and battery to check my CG this afternoon and not good news... VERY tailheavy. [:@]
I was wondering if any of you that have been flying the Vision could let me know where your CG is now... are you flying at suggested (3-1/4" back from LE at tip), or have you moved it back. Does it feel nose-heavy at suggested CG point?
Looks like I'm going to have to add substantial weight to the nose and may still end up being 1/2 an inch or so behind suggested CG... whadya think about that CG position?
I'm at an even 16 pounds AUW now, but I may have to add 3/4 pound or more to balance. Still lighter than a DV, but this ship doesn't have the wing area the DV has. [
] I was shooting for a 15-1/2 to 16 pound bird and got there... but it looks like it will have to be a 16-3/4 pounder in the air if I want it to balance. I've flown tailheavy planes before and don't EVER want to go there again! [sm=eek.gif]
Tom
Hey guys, used a borrowed prop and battery to check my CG this afternoon and not good news... VERY tailheavy. [:@]
I was wondering if any of you that have been flying the Vision could let me know where your CG is now... are you flying at suggested (3-1/4" back from LE at tip), or have you moved it back. Does it feel nose-heavy at suggested CG point?
Looks like I'm going to have to add substantial weight to the nose and may still end up being 1/2 an inch or so behind suggested CG... whadya think about that CG position?
I'm at an even 16 pounds AUW now, but I may have to add 3/4 pound or more to balance. Still lighter than a DV, but this ship doesn't have the wing area the DV has. [
] I was shooting for a 15-1/2 to 16 pound bird and got there... but it looks like it will have to be a 16-3/4 pounder in the air if I want it to balance. I've flown tailheavy planes before and don't EVER want to go there again! [sm=eek.gif]Tom
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From: Athens ,
PA
I have my servos in tail also, jr8611's all around. Pull pull is nice, but the direct link is nicer I think. I think the tail heavy problem would of been avoided by me if I used regular stand offs on the motor, but I used 1.25's, with some shims for a bit more right thrust. After reading what Chip did and suggests the smaller standoffs, I wonder/feel that he flies it with the cg a bit further back then 3.25, but never really seen a real answer from him to say just where his cg is? I still need to weigh mine, but feel it is most likely around 16lbs. Stock gear, Tru turn spinner and Duralites. We will see. The motor will have plenty of power for it, but like always, lighter is better.
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From: Ashland, KY
Well don't get me wrong... 16 lbs for this plane is AWESOME... with the exception of the EF Yak... nothing comes in less... and most 17-18 lbs... fact of life.
If we can get the balance where we need without extra weight it'll be a demon. my 17+lb DV is amazing... not overpowered but nice... an extra lb off will be great!
If we can get the balance where we need without extra weight it'll be a demon. my 17+lb DV is amazing... not overpowered but nice... an extra lb off will be great!
ORIGINAL: Fastlif
I have my servos in tail also, jr8611's all around. Pull pull is nice, but the direct link is nicer I think. I think the tail heavy problem would of been avoided by me if I used regular stand offs on the motor, but I used 1.25's, with some shims for a bit more right thrust. After reading what Chip did and suggests the smaller standoffs, I wonder/feel that he flies it with the cg a bit further back then 3.25, but never really seen a real answer from him to say just where his cg is? I still need to weigh mine, but feel it is most likely around 16lbs. Stock gear, Tru turn spinner and Duralites. We will see. The motor will have plenty of power for it, but like always, lighter is better.
I have my servos in tail also, jr8611's all around. Pull pull is nice, but the direct link is nicer I think. I think the tail heavy problem would of been avoided by me if I used regular stand offs on the motor, but I used 1.25's, with some shims for a bit more right thrust. After reading what Chip did and suggests the smaller standoffs, I wonder/feel that he flies it with the cg a bit further back then 3.25, but never really seen a real answer from him to say just where his cg is? I still need to weigh mine, but feel it is most likely around 16lbs. Stock gear, Tru turn spinner and Duralites. We will see. The motor will have plenty of power for it, but like always, lighter is better.
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From: Newark, OH
Maudib is right, this plane should definitely still be great even at a balanced 16.7 pounds... but would be a lot better at 16. I'm sure I could have balanced it at it's bare 16 pound weight if I hadn't made some of my mods.
Most of my mods were behind CG, and most of them were way back in the tail. Extra covering, tri-stock, vinyl graphics, hinge blocks and Robart Hinge points add up pretty quick. Put 3 extra ounces in the back end of the plane and you need 12 in the nose to counter it. This isn't a problem with the plane, just decisions I made to be happy with it personally.
I don't regret the hinging decision, as I simply was not comfortable with CA hinges, and certainly not comfortable with the hinge slots that were precut in the surfaces. As for the extra tri-stock, that probably was overkill, but didn't add that much. The graphics were a personal decision to get the plane looking the way I wanted it... at a price.
Compound this with the "nose lightening" I did using carbon fiber spinner and gear, which lightens the nose and adds to the balance issue... it's an exponential dilemna.
Overall, I'm very happy with the plane, except for a few minor construction quality issues. The poor hinge slots should be corrected... especially considering how thin the TE and LE stock is. You'll never see this unless you strip the covering... it's scary when you see it. Also, half of my wing ribs were broken during construction and glued together in disjointed positions. I had to add scabbing to correct. Other than that, the quality was great, especially the hardware supplied.
I'm sure this will be a great flying plane, I just want to make sure it is "safely" balanced before flying and try to minimize the amount of weight I have to add to do so. Hopefully the suggested CG is substantially farther forward than what it needs to be and I can safely move my CG back from that and lighten things up a bit.
Lastly, if worse comes to worse I can always switch to pull-pull rudder and probably save at least 8 ounces of ballast in the nose. I hate pull-pull so I'm not going there unless I have to. Time will tell.
Tom
Most of my mods were behind CG, and most of them were way back in the tail. Extra covering, tri-stock, vinyl graphics, hinge blocks and Robart Hinge points add up pretty quick. Put 3 extra ounces in the back end of the plane and you need 12 in the nose to counter it. This isn't a problem with the plane, just decisions I made to be happy with it personally.
I don't regret the hinging decision, as I simply was not comfortable with CA hinges, and certainly not comfortable with the hinge slots that were precut in the surfaces. As for the extra tri-stock, that probably was overkill, but didn't add that much. The graphics were a personal decision to get the plane looking the way I wanted it... at a price.
Compound this with the "nose lightening" I did using carbon fiber spinner and gear, which lightens the nose and adds to the balance issue... it's an exponential dilemna.
Overall, I'm very happy with the plane, except for a few minor construction quality issues. The poor hinge slots should be corrected... especially considering how thin the TE and LE stock is. You'll never see this unless you strip the covering... it's scary when you see it. Also, half of my wing ribs were broken during construction and glued together in disjointed positions. I had to add scabbing to correct. Other than that, the quality was great, especially the hardware supplied.
I'm sure this will be a great flying plane, I just want to make sure it is "safely" balanced before flying and try to minimize the amount of weight I have to add to do so. Hopefully the suggested CG is substantially farther forward than what it needs to be and I can safely move my CG back from that and lighten things up a bit.
Lastly, if worse comes to worse I can always switch to pull-pull rudder and probably save at least 8 ounces of ballast in the nose. I hate pull-pull so I'm not going there unless I have to. Time will tell.
Tom
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From: Edmond,
OK
I am not sure what servo that you are using for the rudder, but the problem that I encountered with the rudder servo in the tail was oscillation caused by the huge mass of the rudder and the precision of the digital servo. I would love to move my servo back to the tail, can you suggest anything to stop the oscillation? The servo is an 8611. By the way, it oscillates a little bit with the pull-pull setup, and only on the ground. Any suggestions? I am trying to get the CG back a ways.



