Forgot to mention that I have the DS 8231 on rudder. 88 oz. in. with the same additional 20% on 6V. I like metal gears in the right situation. The DS811's are 1.44 oz. each and the 8231 is 1.73 oz. Not bad weights when considering what they do. Most MG's start @ 2 oz. each. I have JR 8411 MG's on the Extra. Silly power but weigh 2.10 oz. each. So on a .60 size plane with five servos, not counting throttle, do you want to put 10+ oz. of servo in it? If it comes out @ 8 lbs. or lighter and you have em, use em. Joe

I'm just wondering how big a battery pack I'll need and where to put it to balance out with the 110FZ. I do have the right Tru-Turn spinner with the light backplate, so that will help some. Central is also sending one of those special pitch APC wide blade 3D props designed specifically for the 110. UPS says all the stuff including the 4/40 CF pushrod stock should be here tomorrow, sort of a two day early birthday present !

Heyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy a Pisces. Happy B-day bro I just celebrated mine on the 12th. The way RC related items get shipped to your place it seems like everyday is your birthday!

Mine ended up with a 5 cell half way down the fuse in a hatch. Also the 4/40 steel linkage help in the tail. Maybe with CF you should do the MG servos. Joe

Happy belated BDay to you! Yeah, mine is on St. Patricks day and Susie has to take me out for my fill of Corned Beef and Irish Whiskey . Glad for you that Horizon did the warranty thing with your servos. I was posting at the same time you were, so thanks for the scoop on the rudder servo as I had forgotten about that. Maybe I'll try the 811's on the ailerons and elevator halves and for sure a MG maybe an 8411 on the rudder. We have alot on the plate right now getting the house ship shape here, so only hoping I can only get this thing built with the right mods and flown before hurricane season starts [:@] .

Don't forget the 'Haggis'. Actually the battery is about 6-1/2 inches aft of the wing. Joe

Haggis [:'(],
The hatch looks good, are those AA, 4/5 or Sub C cells?

They are AA, 1100's. I have a new, unused 1650 ni-MH that I may toss in there just to use it. Not that there aren't enough amps in there already. Weight should be the same. Joe

Ahh, the smell of nitro. Little different running this thing up in the shop, like a smoke bomb went off. I don't know, its been six to eight months since this last ran. No issues, leaks or squeaks. Took about two minutes on the starter, but off it went without any needed adjustments. I'll tell ya, nitro sucks, but the transition and power of the YS 110 is incredible.

Servos are in transit, gonna order up some SWB aluminum servo arms and it will be ready when mother nature is. Gonna twist it up a bit and then maybe.........maybe, I'm going to sell it for an electric venture I want to do.

Gonna be a tough call, especially when you wrap up $1100.00 in a plane. What could you possibly stand to re-coup on the sale of a used plane? Motor never ate dirt and has been professionally rebuilt, new potentiometers and gear sets in the servos. All components are HD and first rate.

Any ideas on value? I guess you gotta pro-rate it and the only way you could 'cypher' that aspect, is with a 'fun' meter. It has been fun. Joe

One guy at my club got away with standard Futaba servos in his Do(43oz I think)and 2/56 rods without a problem. However, he never throttled up unless hovering. He also had all hinge gaps sealed. I use nothing but HS635 Karbonites,4/40 rods & 6V & seal the gaps too. Never had a speck of trouble over 100 flights-no slop yet either. MG's will give you slop over time.

Joe,
I got $650 for my first one with the FA 100. Of course it had the DuBro hinges, Hitec 645MG servos, Central 4/40 CF pushrods, Dubro HD 6/32 control horns, 1650 NoBS battery and so forth. It was on display on our LHS for less than a week and considering the prices felt kind of luck getting that. Paid for my DA 50R.

With this being a first rate production, in very good shape and considering I made good use of it. Fifty cents on the dollar will get me $550.00 I'll keep the RX and ask $500.00, sound fair? Joe

I have a U CAN DO 3D. It a great 3D plane that is capable of doing anything you want at an affordable price. I pratically like doing hovering now that I have an FS 120 4 stroke. It it also very easy to land. Just chop the throttle and it will float right in. But I would make one suggestion when building the airplane. When you are putting on the the landing make sure you glue it very good because I have rip the landing gear off a couple of times when it shouldn't have come off. And when that happens it ruins your flying day and it causes you to patch up your wing because the wheels go into the wing. Just a word of advice if your like me who doesn't fixing things that shouldn't happen.

I have a U CAN DO 3D. It a great 3D plane that is capable of doing anything you want at an affordable price. I pratically like doing hovering now that I have an FS 120 4 stroke. It it also very easy to land. Just chop the throttle and it will float right in. But I would make one suggestion when building the airplane. When you are putting on the the landing make sure you glue it very good because I have rip the landing gear off a couple of times when it shouldn't have come off. And when that happens it ruins your flying day and it causes you to patch up your wing because the wheels go into the wing. Just a word of advice if your like me who doesn't fixing things that shouldn't happen.

Considering the engineering in this particular plane I'd ask a little more, you can always come down some. Is that with the 110 or 91AC installed?

110, forgot about the 91AC. I could sell that as well. Joe

I'd stick the .91 in the plane to sell. As soon as the latest shipment of 110'S sell out which won't take long, my source tells me they will be backordered until at least June. You should be able to get a good buck for the 110 either here in the Marketplace or the other large auction site. You have the documents from YS Performance on the rebuild, so it's a no-brainer at $295+. Anyone that knows how you take care of things would love to have it. Just my opinion not that of the management .

What methods are employed to Harrier land? I recently discovered that just holding full up elev and working the throttle will get it done w/engine still running, but wonder if there is another way??

Mixmaster...
Another way... Come in low and hot. Give full right aileron and full down elevator. At impact reduce the throttle. Gives kinda of a cartwheel effect when done right. Once.

Thanks
Barry

Pictures please! Or better yet,the video!

One quick question;
What is the best solution for re-enforcing the landing gear? This is an ARF and I see no way of getting inside where the gear attaches. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Steve

StevL...

On mine I just wait until something happens. I have one I fly all year, last year, and it still hasn't broke out. I've had several others that break on any slightly hard landing. Depends a little on how your personal plane was built and how often you hit a little hard on the landing.

I'm getting better with landings and I'm not afraid to leave the stock set up. The UCD can land very smoothly...most of the time.

One thing...I never use the wheel pants. I fly off of grass and they are a pain on grass. But if you use them when the landing gear breaks they will usually go through the wing and cause damage. If they aren't on there, usually no damage. Just glue in the landing gear block with 30 minute epoxy and you're done and ready to fly again.

Thanks
Barry

I added one additional dowel between the two exisiting ones. Also put pieces of tri stock, vertically, in the corners above the LG block. There is just enough room to get your fingers in the cavity and do it by feel. Very strong and not over done. Although rarely, I have snapped the tee nuts without affecting the LG block. Good luck, Joe

BC/AJ

Thanks for your input... I needed that!

Steve

SteveL,
Just got my UCD 60, heard of all the problems with the gear so I took my saw and cut it all out, found the plate to be fairly good, but nothing really holding it in. installed lite ply on the sides and a double 1/4" aircraft ply plate with a couple of bass wood supports, I figure it's better to fix now than fix later with the wing. I see no useful purpose for the dowels, all they do is go thru the front plate, looks to me like they drop a triangle piece in after the fact and then dump glue in, it's a wonder the thing falls out on the first landing. Took about 45 minutes to do.

On my 3 UCD's, all of them had the gear block area come loose,the 2 formers come loose too. You can add tri stock vertically to the formers and then I also put in a big block of hardwood in the middle of the 2 formers to lock them together. I used Pro Bond polyurethane expanding glue,lighter than epoxy& less is needed,fills any gaps. Part of the problem can be oil-if any gets on the glue joints, the glue used during assembly will soften & peel off,I coated all the joints with thinned epoxy to keep the oil off.