Lanier Edge540t ??!help
#29
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From: plainfield,
IL
T28Pilot, I have an OS 1.6 (stock (lightened) muff), single servo for the ELE. with pull pull (ele and rudder). I have done some serious surgery (cutting) on the air frame and am using CF LG and wing tube, no wheel pants, CF control linkage in the wing, drilled aluminum servo tray, Drilled aluminum engine housing, etc.... I have added no additional weight to the plane for balance and weigh in at 11.9. Granted, I have dig core less servos and a 3000ma batt and am finding new ways to loose weight each day, but we are talking 1.3 LB difference here. How are you doing this??
#30
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From: Colfax, IL
What elevator setup do you have?
i sent mine back and asked for a double beveled setup and they were smaller and lighter.....ummm trying to think what else?...i didn't assemble the thing a guy from rockford did....it has the TNT Landing Gear.....i am using 537's in the tail...i think a 507 for the throttle and a 5945mg for the rudder....1100 Mah Jr pack under the tank...a r700 jr reciever.....real small!!..about the size of a 9 volt battery...jr 537's in the wings....thats about it? oh and the standard tank that comes with it....which even with the OS 1.60 on the front...I land with just less than half a tank after 12 minutes..
i sent mine back and asked for a double beveled setup and they were smaller and lighter.....ummm trying to think what else?...i didn't assemble the thing a guy from rockford did....it has the TNT Landing Gear.....i am using 537's in the tail...i think a 507 for the throttle and a 5945mg for the rudder....1100 Mah Jr pack under the tank...a r700 jr reciever.....real small!!..about the size of a 9 volt battery...jr 537's in the wings....thats about it? oh and the standard tank that comes with it....which even with the OS 1.60 on the front...I land with just less than half a tank after 12 minutes..
#31
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From: CA
I know I may be opening myself up to some flames here but one thing, if I may bring to light...
By going with a gasoline motor vs. a glow motor you should also consider tank size weight savings (have you ever weighed a full 30 oz tank)? With a gasoline motor you can use a MUCH smaller tank due to the lower consumption rate compared to glow. Many times you can offset the few OZ difference in that alone.
I just think it's kinda funny when we start comparing Glow to Gas. Both have benifits, and drawbacks.
Glow= Lighter motor, higher fuel consuption rate, larger tank, more power per cubic inch (higher energy potential in fuel), more expensive fuel.
Gas= Heavier motor (ignition, battery, etc.), smaller fuel tank (lighter), less expensive fuel.
I fly a H9 Edge with an RCS 1.40 and have a ball with it! I feel the RCS is fine for "Scale" Edge characteristics (if you've seen the full sized Edge they are impressive none-the-less). However, it does have limited verticle (about two hundered feet from level pull-up). I have other planes that I use for full-on 3D but I do really enjoy USING the airframe instead of relying all out thrust from the motor.
It's all in HOW you want to fly.
Glow or Gas? Hey...get one of each (wish I could)!!
So, would I fly your Edge with the RCS 1.80....??? (YES!!)
Would I fly your Edge with a ZdZ 40? ... (Heck ya!)
But will YOU? Ultimatly, it's your call....
Good Luck and keep us posted!
High Flights!
CrazyHerb
By going with a gasoline motor vs. a glow motor you should also consider tank size weight savings (have you ever weighed a full 30 oz tank)? With a gasoline motor you can use a MUCH smaller tank due to the lower consumption rate compared to glow. Many times you can offset the few OZ difference in that alone.
I just think it's kinda funny when we start comparing Glow to Gas. Both have benifits, and drawbacks.
Glow= Lighter motor, higher fuel consuption rate, larger tank, more power per cubic inch (higher energy potential in fuel), more expensive fuel.
Gas= Heavier motor (ignition, battery, etc.), smaller fuel tank (lighter), less expensive fuel.
I fly a H9 Edge with an RCS 1.40 and have a ball with it! I feel the RCS is fine for "Scale" Edge characteristics (if you've seen the full sized Edge they are impressive none-the-less). However, it does have limited verticle (about two hundered feet from level pull-up). I have other planes that I use for full-on 3D but I do really enjoy USING the airframe instead of relying all out thrust from the motor.
It's all in HOW you want to fly.
Glow or Gas? Hey...get one of each (wish I could)!!
So, would I fly your Edge with the RCS 1.80....??? (YES!!)
Would I fly your Edge with a ZdZ 40? ... (Heck ya!)
But will YOU? Ultimatly, it's your call....
Good Luck and keep us posted!
High Flights!
CrazyHerb
#32
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From: Phoenix,
AZ
I AM THE ONE WHO STARTED THIS THREAD AND I WENT WITH THE FIRST PLACE 2.4 GAS. ONLY THREE FLIGHTS ON THE PLANE SO FAR BUT I AM HAPPY WITH IT.IF YOU DO THIS PUT EVERYTHING UP FRONT THAT YOU CAN, MINE WAS VERY TAIL HEAVY.I FIRST HAD HIGH TORQUE MINI SERVOS IN THE TAIL BUT HAD TO MOVE THEM UP FRONT AND EVEN WITH THEM UP THERE I AM STILL FLYING ON THE TAIL HEAVY SETTING.
#38
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From: Phoenix,
AZ
WELL I HAD MY 5TH FLIGHT ONE MY EDGE TODAY AND HAD A MID AIR. IT BENT MY TUBE SPAR 3/4 OF AN INCH AND RIPPED THE AILERON LOOSE. LANDED WITH NO PROBLEMS BUT IT SUCKS BEING THAT IT WAS A NEW PLANE.I GUESS IT COULD HAVE BEEN WORSE!!!!WAS ABLE TO FIX LIKE NEW.
#39
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T28, I need some advice on my Edge. I have:
HS225MG's in the tail for elevator
Saito 180 in front
645MG pull-pull in std servo tray for rudder
Other radio components up front as far as possible
I need to add significant weight up front to balance on the Lanier-recommended CG. I forget how much - something like 6 oz.
Do you think I should:
1) Add nose-weight?
2) Remove the 225's and put a pull-pull on the elevator?
3) Extend the nose so I can mount the engine further forward?
I guess there is an advantage to adding weight. I can remove it to move the CG back once I'm ready for that.
Thanks
HS225MG's in the tail for elevator
Saito 180 in front
645MG pull-pull in std servo tray for rudder
Other radio components up front as far as possible
I need to add significant weight up front to balance on the Lanier-recommended CG. I forget how much - something like 6 oz.
Do you think I should:
1) Add nose-weight?
2) Remove the 225's and put a pull-pull on the elevator?
3) Extend the nose so I can mount the engine further forward?
I guess there is an advantage to adding weight. I can remove it to move the CG back once I'm ready for that.
Thanks
#40
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If you are an experienced pilot (you should be with this plane) don't worry about the recommended CG. It is VERY conservative. I am flying mine now with the CG at 5 3/4 back from leading edge. It does not fly tail heavy at all. I plan to move it back another 1/4 before next flying day.
OS 1.60, Slimline Pitts (inverted), Pro Zinger 18x6, Carbon Fiber wing tube. Dry weight = 12lbs, 4 oz.
OS 1.60, Slimline Pitts (inverted), Pro Zinger 18x6, Carbon Fiber wing tube. Dry weight = 12lbs, 4 oz.
#41
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Aerosplat,
Really! Now that's interesting. The CG on mine is coming in at around 5-1/2" as is now. In that case, maybe some lead in the nose would be the way to go. Then I can move the CG back while taking weight off.
Just remembered - how do I tell if I have the upgraded landing gear that won't rip out on the first landing?
thanks
Really! Now that's interesting. The CG on mine is coming in at around 5-1/2" as is now. In that case, maybe some lead in the nose would be the way to go. Then I can move the CG back while taking weight off.
Just remembered - how do I tell if I have the upgraded landing gear that won't rip out on the first landing?
thanks
#42
I'm working on one and I can't get enough throw on the elevator without the pushrods hitting the stab (servos in the fuse side by the tail). I have the pushrod all the way out on the servo arm and the control horn and get about 30 degree throw.
My landing gear bolts onto the aluminum L brackets in the fuse which is the upgraded way.
My landing gear bolts onto the aluminum L brackets in the fuse which is the upgraded way.
#44
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Jaco, to get more, you may have to use longer horns and servo arms.
It also helps a lot to get the holes in the horn to line up with the hinge center-line when the control is centered.
If the hole in the horn is very much aft of the hinge centerline when at neutral, your pushrod will smack the stab before you go far every time. Having this aft offset on the horn has the effect of raising the clevis and rod up into contact with the stab when you pull up elevator.
I'm pointing this out because the pre-drilled holes in mine are pretty far back. This puts the holes in the supplied horns about 1/4" aft of the hinge centerline.
It also helps a lot to get the holes in the horn to line up with the hinge center-line when the control is centered.
If the hole in the horn is very much aft of the hinge centerline when at neutral, your pushrod will smack the stab before you go far every time. Having this aft offset on the horn has the effect of raising the clevis and rod up into contact with the stab when you pull up elevator.
I'm pointing this out because the pre-drilled holes in mine are pretty far back. This puts the holes in the supplied horns about 1/4" aft of the hinge centerline.
#45
The pre-drilled holes on mine were also to far back but I used them with the dubro horns. Now that you've mentioned it I think this is causing the problem. I'm using the Dubro long servo arms. I don't think they get much bigger. Looks like I may be stuck.
Originally posted by bgi
If the hole in the horn is very much aft of the hinge centerline when at neutral, your pushrod will smack the stab before you go far every time. Having this aft offset on the horn has the effect of raising the clevis and rod up into contact with the stab when you pull up elevator.
I'm pointing this out because the pre-drilled holes in mine are pretty far back. This puts the holes in the supplied horns about 1/4" aft of the hinge centerline.
If the hole in the horn is very much aft of the hinge centerline when at neutral, your pushrod will smack the stab before you go far every time. Having this aft offset on the horn has the effect of raising the clevis and rod up into contact with the stab when you pull up elevator.
I'm pointing this out because the pre-drilled holes in mine are pretty far back. This puts the holes in the supplied horns about 1/4" aft of the hinge centerline.
#46
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You can drill new holes for the horns or install a pull-pull like I'm probably going to do.
If you put in a pull-pull, it's better to have the horn holes aft a bit instead of fore. Forward horn holes in a pull-pull are bad news because the tension increases with deflection.
If you put in a pull-pull, it's better to have the horn holes aft a bit instead of fore. Forward horn holes in a pull-pull are bad news because the tension increases with deflection.
#47
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If you do the math on the wing and CG, you will find that 5 3/4 is about 35% of MAC. Just about right for 3-D type flying.
I tried to install pull-pull on the elevators. Did not have good results. I ended up using MK Elevator Bell Crank. I get over 65 degrees deflection up and down with zero binding.
For more details look at posts # 12, 13, 14 & 24, 25, 26 in this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...hreadid=319573
Another solution might be to mount the servos lower in the fuselage to give a greater angle on the control rod..
I tried to install pull-pull on the elevators. Did not have good results. I ended up using MK Elevator Bell Crank. I get over 65 degrees deflection up and down with zero binding.
For more details look at posts # 12, 13, 14 & 24, 25, 26 in this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...hreadid=319573
Another solution might be to mount the servos lower in the fuselage to give a greater angle on the control rod..
#48
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Robert,
I checked out the thread you mentioned. I got it. Thanks for sharing that with the rest of us. Good stuff.
Considering options now. I may just put the original split pushrod back in with some braces to keep it from flopping around until I'm ready for the 3D stuff. That option doesn't cost me $50 and will get the bird in the air sooner.
thanks again
I checked out the thread you mentioned. I got it. Thanks for sharing that with the rest of us. Good stuff.
Considering options now. I may just put the original split pushrod back in with some braces to keep it from flopping around until I'm ready for the 3D stuff. That option doesn't cost me $50 and will get the bird in the air sooner.

thanks again
#49
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From: Poland, OH
Couldn't agree more.
I have the 540 with a FPE 2.4. Weights 12.5 lbs dry. Using Hitec digitals all around.
I used the World Models bell crank and installed it in the opening/area for the rear mounted elevator servos. Saves the weight of the second servo and makes the linkages 100% slop free!
Good luck.
Eric
I have the 540 with a FPE 2.4. Weights 12.5 lbs dry. Using Hitec digitals all around.
I used the World Models bell crank and installed it in the opening/area for the rear mounted elevator servos. Saves the weight of the second servo and makes the linkages 100% slop free!
Good luck.
Eric



