sledman

My Feedback: (2)

2 more flights last night.....funnest plane I have ever flown. But then, I've only been at this for a little over a year. I took TOMAPOWA's advice and screwed the fuse cheeks to the engine mounts to eliminate the vibration. The new engine now holds an idle quite well. I put the 12x4 APC prop on last night, pulls much better than the 10x6 I had on there. Also pulled the baffle out of the pipe on the Magnum .52 XLS. That woke it up, had to richen the needle substantially. There goes my fuel mileage......but then, I won't be using full throttle that much anyway. This plane even lands good. Doesn't float near as much as my 4 Star 60. I still need to trim off the excess length of the control horns that are sticking out, that'll save a fractional amount of weight, but looks cleaner. The altitude at our field is 2900 feet, but the density air last night was 6000'. Still flew well. Next plane will probably be a H9 Funtana, unless I can find something funner for a .46 size engine in the same price range.

One question: How many people are flying their Magic's with the wheel pants on? I am for now.

TOMAPOWA

My Feedback: (1)

A cheap 40 size 3-D plane? ($159 ?) I just completed assembling a new Greatplanes U-Can-Do 40 size. It's approx. 10 inches smaller in most dimensions as compared to the original UCD (60 size). It's very light (and very fragile) and should fly great. I have an OS 70 in it and plan to fly some time this week end. A 46fx would fly this for sure (a little heavier than the Magic Extra though I would think). This is my replacement plane, once I pancaked my Magic Extra last month. Some already flying this plane say that it flies better than the Funtana. Another guy at our field is assembling a Funtana and will also be installing an OS 70. We'll have to see which one performs better. I'll be sure to post.

sledman

My Feedback: (2)

One of the guys at our field had the plane you are describing, said it was WAY to tail heavy. It's hanging in the hobbyshop for sale. He's got the Funtana now, still breaking in the engine. It will be interesting to see which one he likes the best. He recently broke his U Can Do 60 in half....gave it to another guy at the field, who repaired it and is having a blast with it.

On another note, my Magnum .52 XLS is pretty much broken in, but started doing something strange last night. I can't kill the engine by closing the throttle. Even if I put my finger on the top of the carb, it won't shut down. Also tried one finger on the top of the carb, and a finger on the side of the card (where the control horn is) in case it was sucking air there, still no good. No air bubbles anywhere. Still just a touch fat on the bottom needle, don't know if that would have anything to do with it. Any ideas?

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

Plug the muffler exhaust will definitely kill it. Make sure it's idling instead of full throttle, so you don't burn your finger.

sledman

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, but I want to be able to kill it with a switch on the radio, and idle it down a tad. I don't think it should stay running with the throttle closed all the way, should it? I've never had an engine that would, before this one.

Flyn_Hawaiian

My Feedback: (4)

I have a Tower46 that does the same thing.

I can look at the throttle barrel and see that it is fully closed but it just will not stop on it's own. It will have a very slow idle. So to stop the darn thing I just grab onto the spinner.

Other than this inconvienence...... the motor is great. Will turn an 11x6 APC prop at alittle over 12,500.

I will buy another.... when I need it.

sledman

My Feedback: (2)

Well, in that case, maybe I shouldn't let it be an issue. I've just never had one do it before, so I thought there was a problem.

rightflyer

Most likely it is in the carb. I ran into the same issue with a Moki 1.35. Not a major problem, but annoying. You can try sealing the carb seat, it may help. If you have any other 46 size carb, try swapping it and see if that is the problem. Otherwise, you can do as I did-just live with it.

sledman

My Feedback: (2)

Maybe I'll try a little thicker O-ring on the bottom of the carb and see if that helps.

Flyn_Hawaiian

My Feedback: (4)

I tried to seal my Tower46 carb with silicone sealant but it did not change anything. I have not investested the time to seal the rear plate. It was suggested to me that the rear plate may also contribute to the air leakage.

TOMAPOWA

My Feedback: (1)

Exactly what I was going to recommend checking! Be sure to check the rear crankcase seal and plate too. Air is definitely getting into the engine some where in order for it to keep running with a completely closed throttle (sounds like a fairly decent leak too). It's pretty dangerous if you have no way to kill your engine in case of an emergency.

SQUARE ROOT

My Feedback: (33)

I accuired a fully built Magic Extra though a trade. Before this I had a Magic. I loved the Magic and I think the Extra is great but it seems like I need more deflection out of the elevator. The Magic would do really flat upright spins. I can't get the Extra to do flat spins. I havn't checked where the CG is yet but would imagine it is pretty well towards the rear of the recomendation based on the location of the battery and observations of others CG from this thread with the same setup. Maybe the owner glued in the tail to tight to the tail LE.

Can anyone recomend a solution?