I also am flying a TT 120, I have installed a pitts muffler with smoke. This is my first plane of this size and I have found it a bit challenging. I have encountered a vibration problem that I have not experienced with my smaller planes. I have balanced both my props and spinner, and I still have
Loose or missing hardware after a few flights. Do larger engines really produce that much more vibration? Maybe a rubber mount would be in order for this plane. My SFG’s are getting torn up on our grass runway, I think I will strip the covering off of them and I will laminate some carbon fiber on them. That should keep them strait and get them stronger. Anybody have a prop size recommendation for the TT 120? Also I have replaced the CA hinges on the Ailerons with Robart Pinned hinges cause the CA ones were spliting[] please keep an eye on the condition of your CA hinges!!
Thanks,
Gerry
[8D]

Forgot to mention...I added one washer of RH thrust to mine last night. I felt like when I fell out of hover it was always to the left. Too me this means not quite enough RH thrust. Is that right? Anyways, I thought it was less prevelant today. It seemed to improve it a bit.
Thanks,
Barry

Big Barry, I was just reading this again and I'm thinking...when a prop is flying forward I'm certain it unloads and will pick up RPM but, when you are in a hover it seems like to me there would be no unloading and your RPM would be the same as stationary and thrust would be the same also. Is that right or am I thinking weird?
Anyways, by changing the may I was holding on to the fish scale I improved from 12lbs 2ozs to 13lbs 4ozs. And this plane sure flys fine with the YS including hover. I'm using the 16x6 prop though. For me the engine seems to get too hot with the 16.5x5W.
Anyways, any imput will be appreciated as I'm learning here.
Thanks
Barry

Barry what are the static readings you are getting with these 2 props?

STG. When I did all my testing I got 12lbs 2ozs on the 16x6 at 9600 RPM and 12lb 0ozs on the 16.5 x 5W at 8400 RPM. Engine only had about 10 minutes of run time on it. However I've since learned I was unable to see the full pull strength because of the way I was hooked up. Today, at the field, one of our engineering guys was helping me. I only had the 16x6 prop but we held on to the plane with no friction and we took the readings again. This time I got 13 lbs 4ozs with teh Showtime and 13lbs 0ozs with my brand new (never run before) 110 in my UCD. This pleases me a lot more. I think some of the guys are reporting 15lbs thrust but I never expected that at my elevation. I'm at 4800' and I'm using 30% heli fuel and it was just of 80 degrees. These numbers are pretty good I think. When I get time I'm going to do the 5W again. My guess would be 13lbs 2 ozs or so. If I could spin it 9000 RPM I would feel better 8400 or 8500 is just too slow I think. At sea level I'll bet it would be another story.
Thanks,
Barry

YS 1.10 questions.

Can you use a 3 line system to plumb the fuel tank or do you have to use only two lines ?

Barry, can you post a pic of how you did your throttle linkage?

My showtime is almost done, just need to do the motor install.

Barry Finck
Enola, PA

Barry

You might have something there in that thinking, but I think that as the prop pulls the plane out of a hover it should begin to start unloading at some point, especialy as the speed increases. Try the 16.5X5 and see if it makes a difference in pulling out of a hover. We might have to wait untill Fall and some cool weather to start using these props. I'm going to try one on the 1.20 but I dont think I can improve on the 17X6. This combo is unbelievable. I was thinking that spool up would increase, but I really dont need it on the 1.20 as it ripps the 17X6. I probly wont be flying my Showtime for a month or more as I am sheduled to be out of town for awhile on business. I still have to put the servos and plumbing in. [&o] It cant hurt to try.

Big Barry

i use 3 line but i didnt use stock tank

Wow, that 16.5 x5W is loading the motor more than a 17 x6 apc should? Sounds like you got a freak prop? [sm=confused.gif]

STG

The Wide blade props seem to generate a lot more load than the normal size for the same pitch. Those wide blades can get a bunch of air moving.

Ed M.

Ok you Showtime guys, just a curious question. Actually 3 questions...
1. Do you use the SFGs?
2. Did you mount the wheel pants?
3. If you did not mount the wheel pants, do you think it would be a good idea to mount them upside down on the bottom of the SFGs to help them last longer?

Thanks,
Barry

Hi Guys,
Quick question, is anyone having trouble with the paint on the Showtime? In the past the paint on at least some of the H9 ARFs
has not been very fuel proof. It tends to wrinkle and come off of the surfaces like the gear and the cowl. My Funtana has this problem
and so do several of the H9 P-51's out at the field.

Thanks Mike,

What??????

Mounting the wheel pants on the bottome of the SFG's?

No. That would fall under a bad idea. With too much speed the SFG's want to flutter already, with the additional drag it may only make it worse.

And so far, no problems with the paint.

No problems with the paint on mine. In fact that was about the only problem I didn't have with my F90. The paint stayed on.
But I'm now looking for some wood to knock on, now that you brought it up.
Thanks,
Barry

I dont care what my planes look like, as long as I get the 3-D performance I want, they could look like dog turds and I'd still fly them. I dont even really care if they wrinkle as long as they keep together and keep flying. I dont need paint, it weighs too much any way they should just leave it off. When I can do every trick at will, and land perfect every time, then I will get concerned about looks. I know that sooner or later my plane is gonna re-kit it's self and so I just want to fly the paint off of it in the mean time. When I enter a static contest I will make sure the paint is perfect, untill then the less the better.

Fly it into the ground, you'r gonna get another one anyway!

Do you really think the 16.5 x5W generates more load than a 17 x6? Dave S at YS support claims that the 16.5 x5W was made for the YS110.

Hopefully I can spend some time tonight and try the 16.5x5W again tonight. I'm pretty sure my RPM won't change but I'm also pretty sure my thrust will be up. I have two of these props I will try and balance the other one and test it. Let's don't start an argument.
Thanks
Barry

I really do want to know if a typical 16.5 x 5W imposes that kind of load. Dave S. at YS support is recommending that prop for the 110 but says that the 17 x6 might be too much of a load.

Anyone else with readings for this prop as I was about to order a couple before I herd of Barry's findings?

Sounds like your mind is making you think you need more rudder input then you actually need with the SFG's on the plane. My guess is that once you achieve knife edge attitude with the SFG's you probably need to input a hint of negative rudder and then the plane will knife edge almost hands off.

My Sukhoi in knife edge flight needs only enough rudder input to correct it occasionally, never more then 25%, and that is in high alpha knife edge. At higher speeds in straight knife edge it needs only about 5% to go horizon to horizon. I should be able to fly my Showtime this week & I'll be able to give a better assesment then.

Just buy it, stick it on, fly it, then make evaluation

I don't need more props hanging around that I don't plan to fly with, so I would like to know what kind of load I can expect from this prop before I mail order 1 or 3.

Here's what Dave is Advertising about the 16.5 x5W for load.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_32...tm.htm#3220462

I am thinking about ordering a couple of the 16.5 X 5W APC props for the YS110. My YS110 turns a 16 x 6 apc ~ 9,400 what would RPM you expect the 16.5 x 5W to spin?

"Should run about the same rpm depending in your engine, or maybe a couple of hundred less. Try it, they work well. "

I plan to use digital servos all around (HiTec 5925MG and 5945MG) in my Showtime. I have some questions to be addressed:

1)Is it worth using digi servos in a plane of this class? In other words will I see any difference from using high torque analog coreless servos (HiTec 925MG and 945MG) at 6V or even at 4.8V? I have not used digi servos in any of my 3D models that's why I'm asking.

2)If I go for digi what kind of battery (type,capacity,voltage) will I have to use? Some people suggested to use high capacity LiPo cells due to small weight and employ a voltage regulator to drop the voltage down to 5+V. Some others suggested NiCd because of low internal resistance, some others NiMh. Seriously I'm confused [:@] ...please help.

3)What is your setups in similar models of this class eg. EF YAKs 54 68'', Funtana 90s etc?

It is not only a matter of cost it also has to do with battery recharges. Someone told me that I will have to recharge my Rx pack every 3-4 flights if I use a 2000mAh+ NiCd or NiMh pack.


Looking forward to replies.

Rgds,

Nik

On a plane of this weight (F90, 68" Yak)I do not see any extra draw using digital servos(5625's) and a 5oz 6 volt 1800mah battery pack. I can get 7 to 8 flights on a full charge. Yes the digitals will draw a little more under no load, but it is the load that draws significant energy from the battery and there is not a lot of load from a 9-10 pound plane. Put the same radio equipment in a 17 pound plane and it will be a different story.

Nick, I'm not sure if you will notice any real advantage using a digital servo over a good coreless servo such as a 945 or not. I use 5625 and 5645 digital servo's in all of my planes because of the instant response at full power. They are not coreless though and coreless servo's have there own advantages. In a plane of this size, it is probably a wash. As to battery power and size, I never use Ni-Cads in a 3D plane, only NiMh. I always use 6volts in order to get the most out of my servo's but again that is just my preference. I can tell you this though. In my Funtana 90s (I have two) , I have all digital hitec servos, and they are powered by 6 volt batteries. One has a 2700 mah battery, that one can fly all weekend and never go below 6volts if I start with a full charge. The other one has a 1400 mah pack in it and after 5 flights it will read 5.7-5.9 volts, depending on the duration of the flights, type of flying and so on. So it kind of boils down to how much flying you want to do. If, like me, you want to get in 10-15 flights in a weekend, & you don't want to be worrying about having to charge your planes, bigger is better. If you are just gonna fly 3 or 4 flights, then a smaller pack will do ya. Keep in mind too, a 5 cell pack drains faster then a 4 cell pack does so if 4.8 volts will do ya your packs will last longer.

One thing about the showtime, in my mind it is really just a fancy funfly plane. I save the real expensive stuff like 59XX servos for precision planes and stuff like 30% planes. The twisting, snapping, crazy stuff like I do with funfly planes like this one by nature gurantees them a limited lifespan so I tend to equip them accordingly.